March 19, l'91. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
23a 
with fixed lights should be ventilated freely, and the borders must not 
be allowed to become dry, giving thorough waterings to ensure the 
moistening of the soil. 
Wall Cases . —Where these are employed, whether over Peach or 
other description of fruit trees, the chief consideration is retarding the 
blossoming. Peach and Nectarine trees, also Plums and Cherries, need 
not have the lights put on until the middle of March ; but Apricots 
should have the lights put on when their flower buds begin to show 
white, and after they are placed on ventilate freely, as nothing is so 
fatal to Apricot blossom as a close moist atmosphere. Those that have 
not had the roof lights removed may need supplies of water so as 
to bring the soil into a thoroughly moist state, and may have the 
border mulched with a couple of inches thickness of rather short some¬ 
what fresh manure. Ventilate freely to retard the flowering to as late a 
period as possible. 
CucTJMBETis. —Evaporation is correspondingly increased by increased 
solar heat, necessitating a greater supply of atmospheric moisture. 
Damp the house so as to maintain a genial atmosphere, syringing the 
plants lightly duriner bright afternoons. A night temperature of 65° is 
sufficient, allowing 5° advance when the external air is mild, 60° being 
the minimum in the morning when the weather is severe. Liquid 
manure may be applied once or twice a week. Do not allow the fruits 
to hang too long, or they may weaken the plants—besides, they keep 
fresh for several days with their stalks inserted in saucers of water. 
Thin the fruits well, especially on plants just coming into bearing, 
stopping the shoots one joint beyond the fruit, removing superfluous 
growths and bad leaves as they appear, as well as staminate flowers, also 
a superfluity of pistillate flowers. 
Pits and Frames. —Bright and cold nights suit Cucumbers if the 
temperature is kept at a safe degree by linings and protective material 
over the lights at night so as to maintain steady progressive growth. 
Expel moisture by admitting air, taking care to avoid cold draughts, 
closing early so as to retain the sun heat. When the atmosphere is 
clcse as is occasioned in dull weather, resulting in an excess of 
moisture, not unfrequently causing the loss of the plants, and air 
cannot be admitted, much may be done by sprinkling quicklime or dry 
soot around them, these substances having a strong affinity for moisture. 
Continue to prepare material for making fresh beds and for linings, and 
sow as successional plants are required. 
Melons. —Turn out the first plants before they become root-bound) 
watering a little time previously so that the roots may part freely from 
the sides of the pot. Pot later sown plants when they show the second 
leaves, employing warm soil. The plants from seed sown early in 
February will soon be ready for planting out. Make up the beds for 
them, and make also a successional sowing. Those who are growing 
Melons in frames should make a successional sowing every fortnight or 
three weeks until May, making fresh beds at similar intervals to receive 
the plants, so as to maintain an uninterrupted supply of fruit. Main¬ 
tain a night temperature of 65° to 70°, 5° less if the weather be cold, 
70° to 75° by day, admitting a little air at 75°, allowing the temperature 
to rise to 85° with increased ventilation, closing at 80° or 85°, sprinkling 
at the time every available surface, and if the temperature rise to 85° or 
90° so much the better. Keep the bottom heat at from 75° to 80°. Be 
careful to avoid cold currents of air, placing some small meshed netting 
over the openings to break its force when it is sharp. 
PLANT HOUSE?. 
Gardenias. —Repot young plants that have been wintered in 3-inch 
pots. They will succeed in equal proportions of loam and leaf mould, 
with sand added. If moderate bottom heat can be given to start them 
all the better ; if not, they will start freely into growth in any warm 
moist atmosphere. Plants that have flowerel may be cut back and 
started in brisk heat. If scale exists syringe with petroleum and water ; 
they will bear a stronger application after pruning than would be 
advisable during the season of growth. After they have commenced 
growth pot in the compost advised above, but reduce the leaf mould to 
one-third, and add one-.seventh of decayed manure. Do not allow plants 
that are swelling their buds to suffer by an insufficient supply of water. 
On the other hand, be careful not to give too much. 
Ixoras. —Prune any plants that need it, and start them in a night 
temperature of 65°. Thrips are destructive enemies to these plants, and 
if any are present sjringe thoroughly with diluted tobacco avater. 
Syringe once or twice daily with tepid water according to the weather, 
and repot the plants as soon as the roots are fairly active. Emploj' 
compost of good peat and sand. Ixoras that were pinched in August 
may he allowed to grow without stopping unless some shoots are 
taking the lead. All young plants may be potted, a portion being 
pinched, the remainder being allowed to come into flower wnthout. 
Anthurium Andrcanum. —Any that have grown too large may be 
cut back close to the base, when they will soon break again into growth 
and flower freely throughout next winter. Some which have grown 
with one stem often make good bushes after cutting them back. The 
portion removed may be cut into lengths with a growth bud attached to 
each, and inserted singly in small pots in sand and sphagnum moss. If 
plunged in brisk bottom heat in the propagating frame they will 
soon root and grown These, if potted, will make capital plants for 
flowering for the embellishment of the stove in 6-inch pots during 
the winter. For furnishing ipurposes this Anthurium is valuable in 
small pots. 
Alocasias. —Various Alocasias that need repotting may be turned out 
and the old soil carefully worked from amongst their roots. If necessary, 
wash it out with tepid water and repot in a compost of peat in lumps^ 
sphagnum moss, charcoal, and sand. The root portion of the plants 
may be removed and the latter potted well down to their crowns. If 
placed afterwards w'here they can be shaded from the sun and in a 
moist close atmosphere, they soon establish themselves, and commence 
producing their large and beautiful leaves. Small plants may be used 
with effect in groups during the summer in rooms and similar positions 
for a time. 
Acalyplias. —All good tops should be re-rooted and as many cuttings 
as possible where quantities are needed for decoration. Those rooted now 
and grown on until they are placed into 5 and 6-inch pots will be 
invaluable for conservatory decoration during the summer. They root 
quickly in brisk heat in the propagating frame or under handlights, 
and will grow freely in almost any rich soil. After they are rooted 
expose them fully to the sun on a shelf close to the glass. Only by this 
treatment can sturdy growth be obtained and the beautiful colour of 
their foliage developed. Never allow them to become dry, or they soon 
lose their lower foliage. If aphides attack them fumigate at once. 
When large bushes are needed insert four or five cuttings together in a 
pot and grow them on without pinching, and the plants will be well 
furnished to the base with large bold foliage. 
Francisceas. —These are not grown to the extent they deserve, lut 
with a number of plants a succession of bloom can be had throughout 
the winter and spiing months. Plants that have flowered may be well 
pruned or their shoots shortened as far as may be deemed necessary to 
cut the plants into shape. Place them afterwards in biisk heat, water 
liberally, and syringe freely. When they have started into growth repot 
in a compost of peat and sand. The young shoots should be pinched 
from time to time when four or five leaves have been made until 
August, when they should be allowed to grow. This depends, however, 
upon the time they are wanted in bloom. The later they are required 
the longer they should be kept growing. Francisceas can readily 
be retarded after grow'th by placing them in a temperature of 50°, 
Cuttings root freely by inserting young wmod in sandy soil and placing 
them in the propagating frame or covering them with bellglasses. If 
brisk bottom heat can be given it will prove an advantage. Plants in 
5-inch pots are useful for furnishing, and in a small state they do well 
in leaf mould and sand. 
• APIARIAN NOTES. 
I CONTEND that if societies are to be of any use to cottager 
bee-keepers they must abandon their support to dealers and take 
the true bee-keeper under their protection. It is a much easier 
matter to teach the handling of bees and the methods for securing 
a little surplus than to show them that the profit and much of the 
pleasure of bee-keeping lies entirely in the proper manipulation of 
the produce of the hive, but from the proof we have given, and 
which lies before me, the tutors are themselves pupils of the lowest 
standard. 
I had an opportunity this past autumn of examining many 
samples of large consignments of honey from different places, and 
I regret to say that at least 70 per cent, of it was very inferior,, 
scarcely a sample but what showed a watery line of great depth 
upon the top, and fermentation at work. One sample of Heather 
honey from Aberdeenshire was so thin that it gurgled when being 
carried as if it had been water. 
A customer called upon me lately for honey which I could not 
supply, but I procured some for him at his request. On the top- 
of every jar there would be two ounces liquid, and the whole mass 
in a state of active fermentation. The covers of the jars were ail 
lifted up through it. So long as such inferior honey is sent intO" 
the market there will be little demand for even genuine stuff. 
Societies, if they had less self-interest, could remedy all this as 
well as the very objectionable way shopkeepers expose honey in 
windows. 
But perhaps the proprietors of gardens and gardeners keeping 
bees more extensively than they have done in the past will be a 
means of creating a greater demand for honey by disposing of it 
through a channel more likely to spread its usefulness than ha« 
1 been formerly. Bees are a happy community, and when the’jr 
