234 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 10, 1891. 
affairs are allowed to proceed properly, and due attention paid to 
their wants and management, the reward will be prosperity. 
If “ A Surrey Amateur ” uses his influence in a right direction 
he may be the means of doing much good amongst the bee¬ 
keepers of his neighbourhood, and be the means of enlightening 
many readers of this Journal 
The Forward State of Hives. 
Last week I mentioned the advanced state of hives. The past 
fine days have shown them to be even further advanced than I 
thought, and further than in any year since I commenced bee¬ 
keeping. This advanced state calls for due attention to feeding 
that none may suffer for want of it, for if they do all hopes of 
profit for the year may be abandoned, so I trust the hint will be 
taken.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
FIXING FOUNDATION IN SECTIONS. 
So numerous are the methods of fixing foundation that I am 
afraid it is hopeless to produce anything new in that line, I have 
tried various plans, but was formerly most successful with the 
simple means of a hot poker. This, however, wasted more 
foundation than was desirable, which was the result of the poker 
sometimes being too hot. To obviate this I hit upon the follow¬ 
ing plan, which is the best I have yet seen. I am quite prepared 
Fio. 42. 
to find that some of our old hands has used the same sort of thing 
fifty years ago. However, it is so simple, clean, and expeditious, 
and can be made by any handy man in half an hour, that I give it 
now for what it is worth. 
The accompanying sketch will show at a glance what is wanted. 
A is a piece of deal, upon which is fixed a block b, which must be 
1 inch thick, and made to slip the sections on while the foundation 
is being fixed, leaving sufficient room for an ordinary table knife to 
pass down between the block and the section. Now fix three 
■pieces of wood as shown at c c, and into a triangular cut place a 
piece of tin, doubled, as shown at D. Into this is placed an ordinary 
table knife, and underneath is a small lamp, the flame of which 
keeps the knife always at one heat, sufficient to melt the edge of 
the foundation. Having placed the section on the block, the edge 
■of the foundation almost close to it, hold it in position with the 
left hand, and with the right draw the warm knife quickly along 
its edge, and immediately pass it up to the section, to which it -will 
•adhere at once, and is ready to be placed in supers. There is 
remarkable little waste of foundation, and none that are properly 
done will break down when the bees take to them.—A Sussex 
Amateur. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Dobie & Mason, 66, Dcansgate, Manchester.— Lid of Farm Scerh. 
A. M. C. Jongkindfc Coninck, Tottenham Nurseries, Dcdemsvaart, 
Netherlands.— List of Trees and Llardy Plants. 
LUtlo & Ballantyne, Carlisle.— I^ist of Farm Seeds, 1S91. 
James Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London.— Lawns, 
Lawn Tennis, and Cricliet Grounds. 
Agricultural and Horticultural Association, Limited, Creek Ro.ad, 
Deptford, S.E.— L^wsjmctus and Catalogue of Artificial Alanures, 
•,* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Wednesday’s Zietters (/. V. B. and others'). —Letters arriving 
on Wednesday cannot be satisfactorily answered in the current issue. 
Seedling' Carnation (A. E.). —It is a good pure white variety, very 
sweet and decidedly useful, as you have been “ cutting flowers from the 
same plant for three months.” We do not remember one exactly like it, 
but there are several of a similar type. 
Double Cinerarias (<5. A'.).—The blooms are very good indeed, 
and worth sending anywhere; but we do not intend you to understand 
that they are hotter than some of the best varieties in commerce, or that 
you can by any means rely on a certificate for the variety being granted 
in London. 
Dwarf Pea (A .S.). —William Hurst is a good dwarf Pea. It grows 
a foot high, a little more or less, according to soil and season, pods 
freely, and the peas are of excellent qualit3\ We do not know which 
is the best Pea for drying for winter use, but those of our readers who 
maj' have tried different varieties for that purpose are at liberty to state 
their experience. 
Cardoons (A. II.). —They are grown practically in the same ■way as 
Celery, but the rows need to be farther apart, because more soil is needed 
for earthing. In very wet soils they are best sown or planted on the 
surface, the site being well enriched. The seed may either be sown in 
April where the jrlants are to grow, thinning them to a foot apart, or 
rhsed elsewhere, grown sturdily, and transplanted ; but they must not be 
raised too early or drawn in their early stages, or most of them may 
form flower stems and be of little or no use. 
iierial Roots on Vine Rods (A Young Gardener). —The cau^e 
is a close moist atmosphere, or keeping the rods damp by syringing. It 
is accelerated by the roots being in a cold, wet, or otherwise unsuitable 
medium. The season has been unfavourable to air-giving, and that, to 
a certain extent, accounts for roots being pushed from the rods. Nothing 
can be particularly wrong with the border, as the Vines are showing 
good bunches. We do not think jmu have any cause for anxiety, as the 
Vines will improve as the season advances, and the air-roots will dry up 
as they have a better ventilated atmosphere and the roots become active 
in the border. 
Climber for Creenhouse and Palm House (^Idem). —Uirless the 
walls have plenty of light they will be of little use for flowering plants. For 
greenhouse, Lapagferia rosea and L. alba, Ehyncospermum jasmiuoides 
and Plumbigo capensis. If shaded Camellias do be.st. For Palm house, 
Bougainvillea glabra, Clerodendron Balfourianum, and Stephanotis 
floribunda. If shaded nothing surpasses in beauty Cissus discolor. 
IVZlldew on Peacb Trees (^Buchs). —Your trees are seriously 
attacked by mildew, and the sooner you apply a fungicide the better. 
Perhaps sulphide of potassium might answer, and it is sold by nursery¬ 
men and dealers in horticultural requisites with instructions for irse. 
The following preparation is extensively used in Fiance lb. of 
quicklime, 3 lbs. of sulphate of copper, and 20 grllons of cold water. 
Dissolve the sulphate of copper in cold water for two hours in one vessel. 
In another pour a little water by degr-ees on the lime, mixing it well till 
it becomes a milky liquid ; then pour the latter into the former, stir 
them well, and add to the 20 gdlons of water already provided. It 
should be applied at intervals of three weeks, and always used fresh. 
Mr. A. Bishop, Westley Hall Gardens, Bury St. Edwards, prepares what 
he has found a specific against mildew on Peaches, and w'e think he will 
send you some if you write to him on the subject. 
Planting- Vines and Pigs (TU«c). — Figs would grow quite 
strongly^ enough in the narrow border next the back wall, but the trees 
would only bear sparsely' after the roof became covered with foliage. 
A tenth part of mortar rubbi.sh mixed with the loam would be suitable 
for Figs. Vines there planted would produce two or three good crops, 
then gradually become weaker, and eventually' of little value. Splendid 
■ crops of Tomatoes might be grown against the wall during the present and 
