240 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Mwcli 2G, 1£91. 
Avliite Daphne Mezerenm, every twisf or branch of it one sheet of \Yhite 
flowers scattering its fragance aroxind. The ordinary form is very pretty, 
but not to be comparetl to this beautiful white variety. The long borders 
round the lawn are now all aglow with edging of the yellow crowns, 
beloved of bees, who are busy rolling themselves in its pollen-filled cups 
humming away in their intense delight. 
None of these things have suffered from the long and severe frosts, 
but rather, especially the Saxifrages, seem to have enjoyed it. There 
are other things of which one thinks with a kind of shudder. Will they 
ever come above ground ? That Choisya ternatea looks rather seedy, 
that Agapanthus is dead gone, although it has survived the winter. Will 
the Montbretias or the Bravoas survive it? One cannot tell, but I 
think I have shown that in a small garden one can, even at this early 
period of the year, find much to enjoy.—D., Deal, 
L.ELI.4. anceps. 
After the completion of growth this Lselia and its varieties will 
bear a lower temperature than they should be subjected to after 
they have flowered. We do not care to have them in a lower 
temperature at any time than 50“, and only in this for a short time. 
Frequently these Laelias are kept in too low a temperature throughout 
the winter, and they consequenty start into growth much later in the 
season. A winter temperature of 55° to G0° is required according 
to external conditions. During sharp frosts we prefer to find the 
thermometer at 50° in the early morning rather than G0°. The 
temperature of the house may fall about 5° from 10 p.m. to 
Ga.m., but the lower it is the more carefully must water be 
supplied. A low temperature and too much water mean ruin to the 
plants, or at the least result in a sickly yellow spotted appearance. 
Watering. 
From the time these Lmlias complete their growth, that is when 
the pseudo-bulbs are well ripened and the roots cease to extend, 
they need little water until they start again into growth, but they 
must be kept fresh and plump, and on no account should the 
pseudo-bulbs shrivel. Where the plants stand on a bed of ashes or 
other moisture-holding material they will not need water frequently. 
Open stages with pipes beneath are not suitable, the ro'^ts are 
unduly dried, and water is required too often to be good for them. 
Young roots starting freely from the base of the last made pseudo¬ 
bulbs and the supply of water may be gradually increased until the 
plants are growing luxuriantly, when it should be supplied 
liberally ; in fact, they should never become dry until growth is 
completed, when the supply can be gradually decreased. Syringing 
amongst the pots twice daily, and more frequently damping the 
structure, combined with a slightly higher temperature at night and 
a considerable rise during the day by sun heat, will soon induce 
the plants to form roots and grow. 
Pots, Pans, and Blocks. 
Lcelias succeed Avell under all three conditions, but those grown 
on blocks require more attention in watering and syringing. Plants 
on blocks must be gently syringed once daily, and when they are 
growing fairly it should be done twice, except on dull wet days. 
If a little sphagnum has been used about the plants on blocks it 
helps to retain moisture about them. Let it be removed and 
replaced annually, just after the roots are observed to have started 
into growth. 
Ordinary pots and plain pans are the best for these Orchids. 
Pans with large apertures of various shapes soon become objection¬ 
able, not so much from the pan itself turning green, fer this takes 
place no sooner than those of ordinary make, but the crocks used 
for drainage turn green. Laelia anceps does as w^ell in pans or pots 
suspended from the roof as when standing on the stage ; in fact, 
we are inclined to believe the plants succeed better, provided they 
are not suspended too near the glass. 
Treat.mext of Uxiiealtiiy Plants. 
It is useless to leave these plants in pots or pans Avith a large 
amount of material about them Avhen Aveak and in an unhealthy 
condition. Very frequently imported plants are brought into this 
condition by placing too much moss and peat about them at the 
commencement, and then giving too much water. Unhealthy plants 
must be turned out and every particle of soil taken from amongst 
the few roots they may possess. They should be carefully pre- 
sei’A'ed and the stems secured to a short but rather thick block of 
wood. Do not adopt the ordinary method of placing them on 
blocks if they are afterwards to be grown in pots or pans. If 
short blocks are used and the plants secured near the top or all 
round the top portion of the block they can easily, when well 
established, be placed into pots at any season of the year. No moss 
should be used about them, but syringe them frequently, and in a, 
short time fresh healthy roots will be produced. Another plan is 
to secure them in pots filled to Avithin half an inch of the rim with 
crocks and then suspend them until they are well rooted, when a 
little peat may be added. This is the best method of starting- 
imported plants. 
Potting and Top-dressing. 
Where the roots have commenced activity attend to potting 
and top-dressing. Those to be top-dressed should hare all the 
surface-decayed moss removed, and some in a living condition 
supplied, peat in lumps, and charcoal, to which the roots cling 
freely. It is not advisable to use too much moss. Potting can 
rarely be done without breaking the pots or pans, and it is better 
to sacrifice these than to tear the roots in pieces or damage them- 
for the sake of saving a few pots. Considerable care is needed, as- 
no two plants will need exactly the same treatment. Where the 
material is good the surface is removed, the pot broken down to 
within a few inches of the base, allowing all to fall a-way to which 
no roots cling. The plants, crocks, and portion of the old pet is lifted 
into the larger one that has previously had a few crocks placed at 
the base, sufficient, however, to raise the plant to the desired height*. 
The plant must be held carefully in position with the left hand, 
and the space filled round the portions of old pot to within li inch 
of the rim. The surface layer may consist of charcoal in lumps.. 
The remainder may be filled with fibrous peat Avith a few pieces of 
charcoal, using a little moss in patches near the surface. In other- 
cases where the sod is much decomposed pick it carefully from 
amongst the roots, and if necessary Avash out any small particles 
that may have collected about the charcoal and crocks. When 
well rooted, do not disturb the roots that are attached to the crocks- 
and sides of the pots. When it is necessary to take the plants out 
entirely, the fresh pans should be recrocked the same as is necessary 
for imported plants until they are thoroughly established, when; 
more soil may be added. This can be accomplished by using crocks, 
and charcoal freely instead of peat, which can be removed at any' 
time Avhen more soil becomes necessary.— Orchid Grower. 
BOMBAY GARDENS. 
^Continued from 'page 192.') 
Haagng shortly reviewed the different circumstances under which 
gardening is practised in Bombay, I shall try in the foilowing lines to>- 
give a general outline of the most frequent aspects of Bombay gardens. 
Large gardens are but few, though it is not altogether rare that the- 
compound is extensive, and by a comparatively small expenditure could- 
be made sufficiently attractive to form a picturesque addition to the 
garden without exactly requiring the constant and, I regret to say, 
expensive maintenance necessary for a Avell-kept garden. I allude here 
chiefly to such compounds AA-here large rocks or boulders present diffi* 
culties for building or levelling, or Avhere Toddy Palms are retained on 
account of the profit they yield to the oAvner, or AA-here the soil is not 
sufficiently deep to allow of cultivation. Though it is not uncommon 
that such compounds are naturally picturesque, there is still a large 
scope left here W the assistance of Nature by the work of the landscape 
gardener. Most gardens consist simply of a lawn surrounded by a drive- 
leading to the bungalow, and shrubberies concealing the fences of the^ 
garden. This simple plan is often carried out with great taste, but in 
far too many instances the distribution of trees and shrubs is too absurd 
to please the eye, in which respect I shall only mention the very 
common practice of hiding the porch of the bungalow with a very 
dense screen of shrubs or even trees, a practice that may have certain 
advantages as securing privacy, but, on the other hand, has so many 
disadvantages that are quite sufficient to condemn it. In the first 
instance the circulation of air through the house is prevented, a very 
important consideration for the healthiness of the house ; secondly, the^ 
view of the garden from the house is hidden, and part of the object of the 
garden consequently useless ; and thirdly, the architectural features of 
the house, if of consequence, are entirely obscured from view. Privacy 
can be much more effectually secured by a moveable screen. Other- 
gardens, happily now-a-days but fcAv, are laid out in the native style- 
with squares, diamonds, &c., and numerous pathways crossing each 
other at acute angles; This style, no doubt, can be made to look 
effective Avhen planted and maintained with great care and attention 
but I must admit that it has not been my fortune to come across a. 
single instance of this kind of garden in Bombay in which the choice of 
plants corresponds with the style. Another style in very bad taste, 
Avhere statuary, fountains, parapets, and other accessories of the garden 
are the principal features, is fortunately very rarely met with in 
Bombay, though objection may in many instances be taken to the 
various kinds of fountains, which, on the other hand, when tastefully 
