252 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 23, 1891. 
siflcrable volume as high as 20 feet. The nozzles used arc simple in 
character and nnlikelj' to get out of order, vhile tvo and three can he 
used on one delivery, the latter combination throwing such a stream of 
well-diffused spray that a large tree could be covered in one minute. 
'The Judges consider this machine most valuable when furnished with 
two outlets, as one can be turned into the vessel and used to keep the 
contents in motion for effecting a complete mixture, and thus prevent¬ 
ing injury to foliage by its being applied of unequal strength. The How 
of spray is continuous and powerful, and the machine is equally 
valuable as a sprayer for Hops, tall or dwarf fruit trees, and also as 
a fire-engine. The recent machines are made in gun metal, and appear 
strong and durable. The price, with one suction and two delivery hoses, 
pipes, and nozzles complete is £4 2s. 6d., a similar machine with one 
■delivery being £3 10s. The Judges recommend this a first-class certificate. 
—Jlessrs. Hemingway & Co., 60, Mark Lane, London, E.C. 
Snow’s patent garden pump is a compact machine which can be 
•easily worked by a boy ; it can be fastened in an ordinary pail, and 
works most easily, delivering a continuous stream of water, which can 
be charged with insectic’des if desired, and this stream is broken up into 
a fine vapoury spray by contact with a cleverly designed jet called 
■“ Snow’s patent helmet sprayer,” which can be adjusted readily to suit 
the plant or tree acted on. The inventor has also introduced a capital 
plan of shutting off the outflow, thus economising the solutions used, 
■and permitting movement from tree to tree without waste. The Judges 
■consider this a very useful invention, specially fitted for syringing or 
spraying wall trees, Loses, and fruits of moderate height, as well as for 
garden use generally, the price being 40s. complete, and they recommend 
it for a first-class certificate.—Messrs. Osman and Co., 132, Commercial 
Street, London, E. 
A. F. Baheojt ] 
George Bunyard V Judges. 
J. Weight ) 
P.S.—All the awards were unanimous. 
WQKK.fo^ItheWEEK.. 
FEUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Watering, Feeding, and Mulching .—From the time the 
Vines are started until the fruit ripens they must not lack moisture at 
The roots. It is extremely difficult to state how often the borders must 
be watered, through these being so variable in soil and dimensions, in 
depth, and in their formation. A narrow border will need watering 
twice as often as one double the width ; and a border of loose material 
will require water much more frequently than one formed of firm 
retentive soil, consequently the cultivator must be guided by the 
state of the Vines in relation to their rooting area. The proper plan is 
-to examine the border, and when water is needed give a thorough 
supply. Surface dressings of the approved advertised artificials, and 
supplies of liquid manure may be given. The borders having been dressed 
•at the usual season—namely, whilst the Vines are at rest, a dressing after 
the Grapes are set, repeated about the completion of the stoning 
process will help considerably ; the material as regards inside borders 
being at once washed in, or a good soaking at those times with liquid 
manure, and when the fruit commences to colour will assure the 
berries swelling to a good size. In the case of Vines restricted to narrow- 
borders higher feeding will be necessary, affording liquid manure when¬ 
ever there is need of moisture. Supply a mulching a couple of inches 
thick of rather lumpy manure, the best being stable manure freed of 
the straw. 
Late Vines .—Syringe those that have commenced growth two or 
Three Hmes a day, endeavouring to secure an even break by closing with 
a moist atmosphere of 75°. Employ fire heat as may be necessary to 
■secure a minimum of 55°. Vigorous young Vines do not start regu'arlv, 
therefore to prevent a rush of sap to the upper part of the canes they 
■should be brought into a horizontal position until all the buds have 
■started. 
Yoiuig Vines .—Vines planted last year, and cut back to the bottom 
‘Of the rafter or trellis at the wdnter pruning, must be encouraged by 
gentle fire heat, so as to allow time for their "making and perfecting a 
good grow-th. The laterals must have their points pinched out at the 
first leaf up to a height of 6 feet of the current growth on the canes, 
which will cause the buds in the axils of the principal leaves of the 
•canes to form fruit buds and become plump for next season’s fruiting, 
but above that height may be allowed to grow. 
Vines fer Early Fruiting in Pots. —Cut-backs of last year’s raising 
should receive their final potting ; 12-inch pots are a proper size. 
They should be clean and efficiently drained, potting firmly in turfy 
loam, with about a tenth of old mortar rubbish and a twentieth of 
steamed bonemeal thoroughly incorporated. Bottom heat is not neces¬ 
sary, but if they have been plunged in it, and if it had recourse to for 
accelerating root action it should not exceed 80° to 85°, and they must 
not remain in that so long that the roots enter the plunging material. 
Keep the house rather close, and if the weather be bright shade for a 
few- days. It is essential that the canes be trained near the glass to 
insure the solidification of their growth. Pinch the laterals at the first 
joint and subsequent growths treat similarly, stopping the lead at 6 to 
8 feet according to the length of cane desired. 
Planting Young Vines .—This will require to be done when the 
young growths have extended an inch or two, w-hich, w-hen the Vines have 
been kept cool, occurs early in April. Where provision has been made 
for inside and outside borders the Vines should be planted in the former, 
confining the roots to it until they have w-ell occupied the available 
space, in fact a 4 to 6 feet w-idth of border is sufficient in the first 
instance. The Vines, if cut-backs of last year, may be shaken out and 
placed in position either before or after they have grown to the extent 
of a couple of inches, the roots being disentangled and spread out 
evenly in the border, covering them about 3 inches deep, and watering 
moderately to settle the soil about them. Vines of the present year’s 
raising will not require to be planted out for some time yet. They are 
preferably raised in squares of turf, and may be planted when the roots 
are protruding through the sides, or if in pots they should be turned 
out before they become root-bound. They will require to have a tempe¬ 
rature at planting out suitable to Vines in growth—namely, 65° at night 
and 70° to 75° by day, with an advance of 10° to 15° w-ith sun, but Vines 
of last year should be allowed to start unaided, syringing them two or 
three times a day according to the weather. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Dahlias. —Spring-struck plants w-ith a single stem usually succeed 
better than do old roots, or divisions of the same furnished w-ith several 
strong shoots ; and propagating by cuttings is also the readiest method 
of increasing the stock of desirable varieties. The old roots being intro¬ 
duced into gentle heat soon produce a considerable number of young, 
shoots, and these should either be taken off with a heel when about 
4 inches high, or else longer shoots may be cut to a joint, though this 
must be done before the stems become ho low-. Dibb'e the cuttings 
singly into thumb pots filled w-ith sandy loamy compost, and plunge in 
a moderately brisk bottom heat. They requ'rc to be w-atered rather 
sparingly, and not be kept very close till rooted, otherw-ise they will 
damp badly. Being shifted into 5-inch or rather larger pots, they will 
make strong plants by bedding-out time. If no attempt is made to 
raise fresh stock from cuttings, the old roots ought to be kept dry and 
cool for five or six weeks longer, or they w-ill be too forw-ard. Dahlia 
seed sow-n in pans and placed in gentle heat germinates quickly, 
and the seedlings being duly pricked out or potted off a number of 
strong plants will be available for bedding out in June. Seedlings, 
however, seldom equal named varieties. 
Salvia 2 >atcns .—This rich blue Salvia is almost indispensable for 
mixed beds and the back rows of ribbon borders, and those w-ho have 
strong roots of it stored aw-ay in boxes ought to introduce these into 
moderate heat at once. They will most probably push up a number of 
cuttings, which should be early taken off and rooted in close frames 
or in Cucumber or other hotbeds. When long enough a cutting may be 
taken from each well-rooted young plant, the latter being soon after 
placed singly into 3J-inch pots. 
Verhenas .—These are among the most effective bedding plants, and 
being less often met w-ith than in former years, are more to be valued 
accordingly. Hard, insect-infested cuttings are of little worth; these, 
even if they can be rooted, rarely attaining a serviceable size. If the 
pots of autumn-rooted cuttings are given a shift, and arc kept in mode¬ 
rate and not too dry heat, they w-ill grow strongly and yield abundance 
of sappy qirickly rooting cuttings. Cuttings inserted in a layer of soil 
over a gentle hotbed as late as the first w-eek in May w-ould develope 
into capital p’ants by the time they are required. Beds of seecUing 
Verbenas in mixture are very attractive. The seed being sow-n in pans 
of fine T'ght soil, and these set on a fairly brisk hotbed, duly w-atered, 
covered w-ith squares of glass, shaded, and otherw-ise well attended to, 
ought to germinate in the course of about three weeks, though it is 
sometimes much longer in doing so. Prick out the seedlings into pans 
or boxes of rich loamy soil, stop once, and transplant direct to where 
they are to flow-er. The old Verbena veno.sa can also be raised from 
seed, but the stock is best obtained by means of root cuttings. Supposing 
the long fleshy roots have been w-intered under or in a shed, being 
surrounded by sufficient soil to keep them fresh, they may now- be cut 
up into short lengths with one or tw-o joints to each, and then be dibbled 
thickly, thinnest end uppermost, into boxes of fine sandy soil. Placed 
in gentle heat every cutting will grow-, and the plants being given more 
room in other boxes w-ill be quite strong by bedding-out time. 
Sweet Peas .—Where there is a great demand for cut flow-ers some of 
the beautiful varieties of Sweet Peas ought to be raised under glass and 
planted out. This, in addition to forwarding them considerably, is also 
the surest method of obtaining plants from all the seeds. Not many of 
the latter go to a packet, in the case of the new- named varieties at all 
events, and good care should therefore be taken of them. Sow five or 
six seeds in 3^-inch pots and place in eontlc heat to germinate. When 
the plants are 3 inches high harden off and plant out on rich deeply 
dug soil before they become badly root-bound. A few- pots might also 
be sow-n w-ith the commoner varieties, white-flow-ered Peas being 
cspeciallj- useful. Now is also a good time to sow row-s or clumps of 
mixed varieties, a row- of all white being grown in many gardens. If 
mice are troublesome coat the seed with red lead prior to sow-ing, and 
the young plants in all cases should be early staked and have plenty of 
soot dusted about them to keep off slugs. 
