March 2G, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
253 
^Mignonette. —Much that has been just advised concerning Sweet 
Peas also applies to Mignonette. Of the latter there are many distinct 
varieties, a well grown collection proving very attractive. To have an 
early display, sow seed tbinlj^ in small pots, placing in gentle heat to 
germinate, eventually reducing the plants to about three in each pot, 
and planting out on good ground early in May. 
Pojjpies. —The larger varieties are very gorgeous, but the Shirley and 
Iceland Poppies are by far the most popular. Autumn-raised plants of 
the former left on the open borders have mostly disappeared, but if a 
number of plants are raised in small pots and early planted out a good 
<lisplay may yet bo had in June. The seed being very small and plentiful, 
cultivators are apt to sow it too thickly, an.d as nearly every seed germi¬ 
nates thinning out must be early and freely resorted to. If placed in 
gentle heat to germinate, the pots must soon be transferred to green¬ 
house shelves or light frames. Thin to about three plants in a pot, and 
plant out on a sheltered border before the pots become badly crowded 
with roots. More seed to be sown in a bed or in patches where the 
plante are to flower towards the end of March, and this will form a good 
succession to the plants raised under glass. The charming Iceland 
Poppies (Papaver nudicaule) if sown in the open any time during the 
spring will not flower this season, but would do so early next summer. 
By raising seedlings thinly in small pots and gentle heat, these being 
transplanted to a warm border as soon as well rooted, the majority 
will give a late summer display. Once a stock is obtained there 
Avill always be plenty of seedlings coming up about the place, and 
they are among the most beautiful border plants. Old clumps divide 
fairly well. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Peas. —Any Peas raised in pots, troughs, turves, or boxes, for trans¬ 
planting to the open ground ought not to be kept long in such close 
quarters, or they will become root-bound and stunted in growth. Take 
advantage of the first favourable opportunity for planting them on well 
prepared ground, the preference being given to a sunny position, 
sheltered walls not being indispensable for this crop. An exception, 
however, may well be made in favour of the early dwarf varieties, 
notably American Wonder, Chelsea Gem, and William Hurst. Some of 
these might be planted in rough frames and pits, a gentle bottom heat 
and rough protection giving these a good start. If more are planted on 
a slightly raised ridge of soil at the foot of a south wall these would 
afford two or three gatherings in close succession to the frame-grown 
crops. 
SUCCESSIONAE Peas. —The weather and state of the ground during 
February were favourable to seed sowing. Directly the earliest Peas 
show through the ground more seed ought to be sown, or there may be 
a break in the supply. Those who have to deal with cold, heavy soils, 
if they are experienced in the matter, rarely venture to sow the wrinkled 
seeded varieties before the first or second week in March, as they are 
liable to decay. In order, therefore, to obviate any risks there may be 
in the succession it is advisable to make another sowing of William I., 
and with this one or more second early varieties, some of the best of 
which are Telephone, Telegraph, Duke of Albany, Paragon, Stratagem, 
Wordsley Wonder, and Sutton’s Early Marrowfat. With any of these 
might also be sown either Criterion, Huntingdonian, Satisfaction, Presi¬ 
dent Garfield, Anticipation, Dr. McLean, Marvel, Princess Royal, or 
any other weU-tried third early variety, and in this manner the suc¬ 
cession will be unbroken. Peas ought to have the benefit of freely 
manured, trenched or deeply dug ground, preference being given to an 
open position. Dispose the rows fully as far apart as the known height 
of the varieties, and sow the seed thinly in wide drills. If mice are 
troublesome coat the seeds with red lead. 
Broad Beans. —If seeds were sown in the open or on a warm 
border at the same time as the earliest Peas the plants will soon be 
through the ground, and more seed ought at onee to be sown. Beck’s 
Dwarf Green Gem is one of the best varieties for both early and 
successional crops ; the small size, colour, and quality of the young 
Beans suiting the wealthier classes better than anything tried against it. 
It is of dwarf branching and very productive. Sow thinly in single 
rows 2 feet apart, if preferred, more seed of a selected early and long 
pod, and also a good broad podded variety, this ensuring the requisite 
succession. These may be sown in single drills 2 feet apart, or be 
dibbled in on double lines, with 3 feet spaces between. 
Spinach. — Where the breadths of autumn-sown Spinach have 
survived the winter, and this crop has done so in most districts, it is 
advisable to distribute soot, guano, or some artificial manure between 
the rows, and lightly stir it in with the flat hoe. This being done in 
showery w'eather, there will soon be a marked improvement in the 
vigour of the plants, and the supplies of succulent leaves be well 
sustained till the earliest February sown crops are available. Each 
time Peas are sown Spinach also should accompany them, the latter 
being sown in shallow drills midway between the rows of the former. 
The ordinary summer or round seeded Spinach answers fairly well, 
but compares badly with the Victoria and Monstrous Viroflay. Only 
one of the two last-mentioned need be grown, and the seed should 
be sown somewhat thinly, in order to give the plants an opportunity of 
developing their fine leaves. 
Parsnips.— If large roots of these are required, then ought the seed 
to be sown somewhat early and on ground deeply dug, animal manure, 
if any is used, being buried 2 feet below the surface. This is necessary 
in order to guard against the possibility of the tap roots coming into 
contact with it before the desired length is attained', forking inevitably 
resulting if this precaution is not taken. For ordinary purposes 
medium-sized to comparatively small roots are to be preferred, these 
also keeping best. The seed may be sown any time during March or 
even in April, and if the site selected was well manured for a preceding 
crop, digging and pulverising is all the preparation needed. Shallow 
drills may be drawn 15 inches apart, and the seed sown either thinly 
or in small patches 12 inches apart. 
Turnips. —White varieties failed to withstand the long spell of 
frosty weather, and there is every prospect of a scarcity of Turnips 
generally in many places. Seeing that there is always a steady demand 
for them, something will have to be done to raise young ones as quickly 
as possible. The Extra Early Milan “ bulbs” very quickly, and is 
amenable to gentle forcing. If a glazed frame cannot be spared, and 
there are no light borders in unheated fruit houses available for raising 
a few bunches of early Turnips, temporary frames with thatched 
hurdles or mats for covering them during cold nights may be used 
instead. A slight hotbed surmounted by 8 inches of rather strong: 
loamy soil is all the further preparation needed. Sow the seed thinly 
broadcast, and cover with sifted soil. Give abundance of air. Thin'out 
early, leaving the plants 5 inches apart each way, and commence tO‘ 
draw for use when the earliest roots are rather larger than Turnip-rooted 
Radishes. Those left if kept well supplied with water will continue to 
swell at the roots, a surprising number of really good Turnips being 
had from a frame. When the seed is sown on warm borders progress is- 
slow, premature flowering more often than not resulting. It is advisable,, 
however, to sow a pinch of seed at once on the chance of getting a few 
roots fit for soups if for nothing else. A south-east border suits early 
Turnips, and they would pay well for some kind of temporary- 
protection. 
Forwarding Permanently Planted Asparagus. —Asparagus- 
permanently planted in raised beds may be forwarded considerably 
without sustaining any serious injury thereby. It is next to useless,, 
however, to make the attempt with a short length of bed, but a grand 
supply of shoots would be obtained from a length of about 12 yards^ 
Span-roofed frames would be well adapted for covering the beds, but 
failing these enclose the beds with stout 11-inch boards nailed to short 
thick stakes, these to support either glazed lights or else cross pieces and 
mats. The 2 feet or rather wider pathways on each side of the bed 
about being forced to be next dug out to a depth of 2 feet, a little of the- 
best soil being spread over the bed, and the rest wheeled away to a 
convenient yet not conspicuous spot, as it will be wanted again. Fill 
the trenches with nearly fresh strongly heating stable manure, making 
this rather firm and banking it up to the sides of the frames. The 
lights or mats being covered with more of the same no heat will be lost,, 
and it will not be long before a gentle warmth pervades the beds and 
starts the Asparagus. Cutting ought to commence in about three weeks,, 
and may be continued till unforced shoots are plentiful. If green 
Asparagus is preferred to blanched shoots light should be admitted after 
active growth commences, covering up again early every evening. The 
bed adjoining that being forced will also be slightly forwarded, and if 
this is covered with a few inches of litter this will protect the early 
shoots from frost till they are long enough to cut. Directly Asparagus- 
is plentiful cease cutting from the covered bed, remove the frames and 
the manure from the trenches, and return the soil, Beds thus treated- 
may be forced every second season. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
PREVENTING SWARMING. 
In previous articles I have explained that swarming under- 
certain circumstances cannot be prevented, be the race of bees- 
what it may, but at the same time gave the most likely methods ta 
lessen the propensity and increase the yield of honey. I have 
showm that Carniolians are not greater swarmers than other- 
varieties when managed properly and in accordance with their 
nature, and I can say with confidence that my experience has been- 
longer and perhaps greater than any other British bee-keeper. 
Fortunately I am in possession of the pure breed. American bee¬ 
keepers appear, ho-wever, to be pleased with yellow banded bees as- 
a pure type of Carniolians, but from what I have seen of them- 
they are more like Syrian bees. Carniolian bees are not striped. 
It is impossible to comprehend the reason why intelligent people 
so readily believe the ridiculous statements that bees can be pre¬ 
vented swarming by simply making the hive larger. They cannot. 
The following from “My Bee Book,” by the Rev. W. C. C., is 
substantially the truth on preventing swarming. 
“ It is not to be done by monster hives, or by ventilation, or by 
adding supers. If the bees swarm they will. They are ‘a stiff¬ 
necked generation’ and know their own business, at least they think 
