Mdrch 2 <\, U9]. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions throngh the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Bulbs Failing' (^.P. B .').—-We have sometimes known the growth of 
bulbs to be injured when p-jshing through the soil by the rupturing of the 
tissues by frost, the iee crushing them so to say ; but as you say the injury 
to yours only occurs in patches, that can scarcely be the cause in this case, 
if all the bulbs are in the same stage of growth. To one practice that is 
common in connection with plant ng Hyacinths and Tul'pi you make 
no reference—namely, mulching the beds. If this was done in your case 
it is quite possible that there may have been something of a poisonous 
nature to vegetation in the material, and it is as likely to be in patches 
as not, if not more likely. If you have not mulched the beds, we still 
think something has found its way to them that has caused the evil in 
question, and that the mould you find is the consequence of sap stagna¬ 
tion and decay. The bulbs are very good. 
IVIilde-w on Tomatoes (P. IH). — We do not think there is any 
cause for alarm—that is to say, if the plants you have sent are fairly 
representative of the collection. The attack of mildew is very slight, 
and is not at all uncommon on the lower leaves, from which the sap is 
diverted by the stronger growth above. You have done right in 
removing the imperfect leaves, also in ailopting preventive methods 
against further fungoid attacks. We suspect your plants will improve 
with the weather, and should have all the sun and air possible con¬ 
sistently with free unchecked growth ; sharp currents, or a check or 
chill from any cause, predisposing the plants to attacks of mildew. 
Wire-worm In Flower Beds (./. H.). — Cut some Carrots into 
pieces transversely about inch long, thrust a pointed stick into each 
so as to get a good hold, insert these about 6 inches apart 2 to 3 inches 
deep all over the flower bed, covering with light soil. Examine these 
every morning, withdrawing the pieces of Carrot by taking hold of the 
stick, and the wireworm will be found eating into the Carrot, from which 
remove and destroy, replacing the baits in the soil as before. Kenew 
the baits when necessarj^, and by continuing this for a few weeks the 
wireworm will be much reduced if not exterminated. If Carrots cannot 
be had for baits. Potatoes with the eyes cut out may be used instead, 
cutting them in halves or fair sized pieces. 
Buke of Buccleuch Grape (//. A. P.).—We do not know the 
precise parentage of this fine Grape, but the raiser, Mr. W. Thomson, 
Clovenfords, can perhaps give the information. We are p'eased to hear 
you find it so satisfactory, and we cannot imagine how anyone could 
arrive at a different conclusion who succeed in growing the noble duke 
well. As a rule the best results follow either the young rod or long 
spur system of management, and we have only seen a few exceptions. 
If you send Sjd. in stamps to the publisher, and ask him to send you 
the number dated March 8tb, 1888, we think he can find you a copy 
containing the notes to which you refer. 
Pruning Outdoor Fig Trees (A.).—These only require to have 
the branches or shoots thinned, as they bear best on the extension 
system. Old bare branches should be cut out to make room for young 
and fruitful gro>vth; the extremity branches of trees on walls may be 
cut back to successional wood, conveniently placed for supplanting them, 
the remainder of the branches being thinned so as to leave them not less 
than a foot apart, with bearing shoots equally disposed over the tree. 
This is best done in spring before growth takes place, brrt during growth 
the shoots must not be crowded, and if thinning be properly attended in 
summer little pruning will be needed in winter. The extension growths 
and those not required should be cut out immediately the fruit is 
gathered. This will assist the growths left to ripen, and on the rijicning 
of the wood in a great measure depends the future crop of fruit. 
Yellow Sweet Sultan Unsatisfactory (Ju-td ').—This is very 
liable to damp off, particularly in heavy soils, being attacked by a 
fungus which (lestroys its tissues near the surface of the soil similar to 
the disease attacking Ilumeas and Calceolarias. Slugs are also very 
partial to the plants, eating them quickly if not prevented. We have 
found the plants grow best in loam of medium texture overlying gravel. 
Where the soil is not natura’ly porous and deficient in lime we have 
found mixing sand and other opening material with the soil advan¬ 
tageous, mixing a 3-inch layer of old mortar rubbish with the top spit 
of soil, and using some fine light soil on the surface for sowing the seeds 
in. Charcoal refuse we have found excellent for mixing with the soil 
and plachig over the seeds when sown. The Yellow Sultan does not 
like a heavy wet tenacious soil. 
Winter IVToth (/S'w.wc.c).—It is as jmt too soon to spray for the 
destruction of the larvm of tlr's pest. Miss Ormerod states in the recently 
i.ssuei pamphlet, “Paris Green, its Uses, and Methods of Application, as 
a Means of Destruction of Orchard Moth Caterpillars,” that “ The 
amount recommended in Canada for spraying for codlin moths or young' 
“ looper” caterpillar is not more than from 2 to 4 ozs. in 40 gallons of 
water, or J to oz. in a pail of water (4 gallons), to be applied as a fine 
spray by means of a force pump. The foliage must not be drenchcl, 
but the spray should only be allowed to fall upon the trees until it 
begins to drop from the leaves. For general use on mature foliage :— 
2 lb. of Paris green, 50 gallons of water. First mix the Paris green 
separately with a small quantity of water, then add to it the who'e 
supply. All water containing Paris green must be constantly ‘ stirred ’ 
to keep it in suspension, or it will sink to the bottom.” The Committee 
of the Evesham fruit district recommend “ Paris green paste in the 
proportion of 1 oz. to 8 or 10 gallons of water for Plums, and 1 oz. to 
20 of water for Apples.” Care must be used in rprayed trees with 
Paris green, taking the greatest precautions against accident to man or 
beast. 
French Beans (^S. .T. ./L).—We can only suggest that you write to- 
Sir Henry Thompson for the explanation you appear to desire of a 
sentence you have twice quoted from his work. We will put our view 
of the case in language which cannot be misunderstood. French Beans 
are Flageolets, and Flageolets French Beans. The Negro Long-podded 
is a typical form of the Dwarf Kidney (or French) Bean, grown in this 
country, and it is called in France the Black Flageolet. Mixing the 
.sliced tender pods of these with the older yet succulent Mange-touts 
containing tender beans is a question of taste, and probably the addition) 
of the latter would render the dish more nutritious. On that question 
you may safely follow Sir H. Thomp.son. There are no doubt manjr 
varieties of Flageolets grown in France that are not generally grown in 
Britain, and vice versa. It is the same in respect to Peas, and only 
shows that national taistes differ. AVe do not advise you to grow the 
Mont d’Or Butter Beans instead of Scarlet Runners, but to grow both. 
You will then ascertam which yoir like the best, and can also try the 
mixing process. The former is tender podded, the latter, after its early 
stage, tough podded, because of the absence of the hornv membrane in 
one and its presence in the other. We grow both. They are quite 
distinct, .some persons giving preference to one, some to the other. 
Trees and Shrubs for a Wet Position —For the low- 
lying ground, formerly a pond, and filled up with stiffish soil, about a 
quarter of an acre in extent, and which wdll always be rather moist,, 
backed now by trees on all sides except that fronting the house, which 
stands on a much higher level, the planting of the old pond must 
depend something on the trees already round it, and whether it would 
be desirable to make that harmonise with the other trees, or to assume- 
a distinct character of its own. In the latter case a quick and pleasing, 
effect would be produced by using Willows and Poplars for light foliago,. 
either without or in combination with some sombre-leaved Pines, and 
with an undergrowth of evergreens and other plants if desirable. Thus 
in such a place first there might be planted three good plants of the 
Babylonian or Weeping Willow, one of the White and two of the Duke 
of Bedford Willow, or Salix Eusselliana ; and mixed with these one 
plant of Populus alba, P. tremula, P. fastigiata, and P. balsamifera. 
Then the whole undergrowth might be a mass of Laurels, Privet, and 
Box, or walks might be made through it, and the following arranged in* 
grouDS, so as to be very attractive, the last-named sorts being kept most 
to the outsides:—Evergreen Oaks, a few Hollies, common Laurels,. 
Portugal Laurels, Boxes of sorts, Aucuba japonica. Daphne laureola, 
Arbutus unedo, Atriplex halimus ; Rhododendrons if a little peat can 
be given them, and there is little or no calcareous matter in the soil ;; 
Hypericum calycinum, or St. John’s Wort, and Laurustinus, keeping 
the latter chiefly at the outside. Second, If the Willows and Poplars- 
should be too light you may mingle with them a few Pines, as Spruce 
Firs (Abies excelsa), Picea pectinata, and Pinus austriaca and rigida ;. 
but if these are encouraged to feather to the ground nothing else muse 
be planted near them. Third, The Spruce Fir and Pinus austriaca 
and rigida would flourish pretty well in such a place, and would soon, 
form a thicket of themselves ; but if the place were desired to look well* 
from the house, and to be a place of resort as well, then if such sombre ■ 
trees were planted from 30 to 40 feet apart walks could be carried' 
through the space, and the above evergreens thrown into groups in the 
open spaces, to which might be added such deciduous plants as Privet,. 
Dogwood, &c. Fourth, If the surroundings admit of it, and as economy 
is your object, we would plant with AVillows and Poplars, say from 
30 to 40 feet apart, including a few Spruce, and then use Laurels for- 
undergrowth, with a belt of Laurustinus for the outside. 
N’ames of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants 
not varieties that have originated from seetl and termed florists’ flowers.. 
Flowering specimens arc necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fiond-. 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes.. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, dry 
wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once., 
and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp.. 
(!('. S.). — Apparently a strong plant of Pteris tremula (11. 1 !.').— 
1, Aspidium coriaceum. 2, Lomaria ternata. (./. 6’.).— Lycaste 
Ilarrisonire. 
