April 2, 1£9L ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTA.GE GARDENER. 
257 
1 /i 
^1, 
VIOLETS IN WINTER. 
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D ouble violets give a better return for the small amount ot 
labour required to have them in good condition than do any 
other winter flowering plants, and flowers can be had from the same 
plants during fully six months, commencing early in October. A 
succession may even be had during such a winter as that through 
which we have passed. All that is required to ensure the object is to 
.•grow a few dozen plants beyond those needed for the frames and 
establish them in boxes or pots to be placed on a shelf close to the 
■glass in a vinery or Peach house, or anywhere from which frost is 
•excluded without the necessity of having to cover the glass for 
that purpose. The advantage of growing these extra plants was 
■fully proved during December and January last, when for many 
■days the frost was so severe that the lights could not safely be re- 
•moved from the frames, even to gather the flowers. 
Much depends upon the soil at hand whether success will be 
■achieved easily or not. In sandy loam Violets grow freely with little 
trouble, while in some kinds the plants will barely exist. The soil 
•here is heavy, retentive, and consequently cold during the spring 
•months. The leaves of the plants when growing in this soil 
without any other material being added, are extremely pale in 
<5oloui’, and very small. They are always infested with red spider 
■consequent on the want of vigour. Under adverse circumstances 
like these Violet culture is a diflicult matter, still success may be 
assured if the right method is adopted, and which I will explain. 
The end of April is a suitable time to commence preparing the 
stock for next year. Plants now flowering will by the time named 
be ready to be divided ; the strongest grown roots may be pulled 
into pieces of one crown each, weaker roots may have two or three 
■crowns together if the stock is to be increased. 
The runners growing from the base of the old roots make 
■excellent plants for next season’s supply of flowers, and are pre¬ 
ferable, but they cannot always be had in sufficient numbers, there¬ 
of ore we are obliged to divide the old roots. Our plants are grown 
•on an east border, allowing sufficient space between the rows and 
the plants for cleaning purposes, and removing the runners as fast 
iis they appear. This is important, as then the energy of the plant 
is wholly concentrated in the crown of each, with a greater prospect 
•of a full supply of flowers. If the soil be of a sandy character, 
^ind has been manured for the previous crop, nothing more will be 
needed for the Violets. It is not desirable that the plants should 
make a superabundance of foliage at any period of their growth. 
If the soil is heavy dig it deeply in the autumn, and when planting 
commences chop out a trench with a spade, fill with leaf soil, in 
which the Violets can be planted 10 inches apart, in rows 1 foot 
asunder for the convenience in stirring the soil during the summer, a 
great help to the growth of the plants. We spread a thin coat of 
leaf soil over the surface of the soil after planting, which prevents 
it cracking during dry weather, retains the moisture in the soil, 
and thus minimises the attack of red spider on the foliage. In 
sandy soil none of this extra trouble is needed, the plants may be 
■dibbled in 1 foot apart all ways, and beyond an occasional stirring 
of the soil with the hoe during the summer nothing more is 
required. Should the weather be hot and dry at the time of plant¬ 
ing some shade given to the plants will be a distinct gain. Nothing 
is better than evergreen boughs thrust into the soil between the 
rows. The plants will derive much benefit from a thorough soak- 
No. 562.—VoL. XXII., Thied Series. 
ing of water to the roots occasionally it the weather be long con¬ 
tinued hot and dry. This completes what I term the summer 
culture. 
The next consideration is their winter quarters. We flower the 
bulk of our plants in a cold frame on a warm sunny border in the 
kitchen garden, although exposed to easterly winds. The plants 
succeed muoh better -when growing close to the glass, yet I do not 
think it is either necessary or desirable to fill the frame with 
manure or any other such material with the object of raising the 
plants, and as I do not believe in bottom heat as some growers do,, 
and for reasons which I will state. At the bottom of the frame 
I place a layer of faggots, for a twofold object—viz., raising the 
plants near to the glass and permitting of thorough drainage, as 
I find the roots are waterlogged if the development of the blooms 
is retarded. 
On the wood a thin layer of stable litter is placed to prevent 
the fine soil running down among the faggots. Over the straw a 
layer of last jear’s leaves is placed; into this the roots of the 
Violets find their way, they being especially partial to decayed 
leaves. The soil we use is mainly composed of roadside refuse, 
with which is mixed a quantity of grit that assists in keeping the- 
whole porous. To this v.'e liberally add decajei leaves, with the 
addition of a small quantity of manure from a spent Mushroom 
bed—say, one part of leaves and manure to two parts of the soil; 
this compost is about 9 inches thick. The plants are then lifted 
with a good ball of soil and roots attached, and planted in the 
frame, allowing just sufficient space between them, so that the 
leaves of one plant do not quite touch those of its neighbour. In 
our case it is not necessary to give more space than this, because 
we do not allow the plants to make much growth afterwards until 
the following April; therefore they never become crowded, and it 
would be a waste of space to allow more room. The soil is pressed 
firmly about the roots, planting being done with a trowel, first 
levelling the soil all over the frame, allowing, of course, the usual 
slope to the front, so that all the plants are of equal distance from 
the glass. "When the plants are placed in the frame the leaves 
are quite at the top of the sides of the frame. In a short time 
the soil settles down, so that by the time the lights are placed on 
the plants are within 2 inches of the glass. They receive a good 
soaking of water, which settles the soil about them. Any time 
about the middle of September is a suitable period to place the 
plants in the frames. 
Noav comes the period when my objection to bottom heat needs 
to be explained. Instead of placing on the lights as some persons 
recommend to induce the plants to make an early growth to 
establish them in their new quarters, this is not done until there 
is danger of frost injuring the foliage. By this method of treat¬ 
ment roots are being freely made but not much top growth. The 
plants receive all the showers which fall, except of course if rain 
continue for several days, but even then the lights are tilted 
at the back to keep the plants cool. Bottom heat under these 
conditions would tend to unduly excite the plants, causing exactly 
what we wish to avoid—an early growth of leaves. By following 
the treatment described we commence gathering flowers in a week 
or so after the plants are in the frame, and continue without inter¬ 
mission until the middle of April, the quantity being governed by 
the number of plants and the frame accommodation. An ordinary 
frame of two lights about 6 feet by 8 feet will accommodate about 
six dozen plants. This will give some idea of the number of 
plants to prepare during the summer. When the plants are placed 
in the frame all runners are removed, but any made afterwards 
are allowed to remain, as these young growths produce many fine 
blooms during February and March. If left on the plants earlier 
they would crowd the frame unduly, and might cause the foliage 
to suffer during a long spell of damp weather. 
Although a few degrees of frost will not injure Violets when 
the lights are on, it is not wise to allow the leaves to be frozen. 
No. 2218.— VoL. LXXXIV., Old Series. 
