' [ April 2 , 1851. 
25 ^ JOURXAL OF HORTICULTURE AXD COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Tha outside of the frame should be lined with long manure or 
leaves. The glass should be covered with mats or any materials 
commonly employed, these being removed if only for an hour 
or two during the day when it is not freezing. Our plants 
only received water at the roots twice after the lights were placed on 
them in tie autumn, so little do they require during the winter. 
During March and April when the sun has more power and drying 
winds are prevalent they will need more to keep the roots moist, or 
red spider will attack the leaves. To make sure of a supply of 
bloom when the outside temperature does not permit even the 
covering to be taken from the lights, we grow a few Violets in 
boxes, arranging these on a shelf in the vinery or Peach house. 
Ordinary cutting boxes will answer very well. The Violets are 
placed in them at the same time as the others are planted in the 
frame, using the same sort of soil. The boxes should stand out of 
doors for a time, but upon the approach of frost they are moved 
to the vinery, which at that time is kept cool, and capital blooms 
are obtained at a trifling cost. The Violets in the boxes require 
more water than those in the frame on account of their having so 
much less soil in the boxes. 
When Violets make an ea'ly g'-owth af'er being planted in 
April or May, as they do if advuntige is taken of showery 
weather, we gather blooms in August and all through September, 
and as we generally have more plan‘s than we require for the 
frames and boxes these are allowed to remain in the ground all 
the winttr. These promise a good crop of flowers. A slight 
profeetion avas given co them during the winter, which prevented 
their being killed by the severe fro:t=, but many we:e severely 
checked. 
We grow only two varieties, De Parme and Marie Louise ; 
they are noav so mixed that it is difficult to distinguish them, but 
as long as they are double blue Violets of dark colour it matters 
little to us. Neapolitan is too pale, and Comte de Brazza shows 
too much of the green centre.— Practical. 
[We have seen no finer Violets than some that were sent to us 
by our correspondent during the winter.] 
AVATERING VINE BORDERS. 
Ix reference to Vine borders it is oft repeated advice that 
these cannot be too freely watered when the Vines are in full 
growth or commencing. This I fancy is an erroneous opinion, and 
has led to as many failures with Glrapes as any other cause. Small 
borders, and especially when these are formed with a non-adhesive 
soil, will certainly take with benefit to the Vines a much larger 
amount of water than is necessary for borders of a larger size, or 
where the soil is retentive. Overwatering Vine borders I believe 
is often responsible for shanking and deficiency of colour in black 
Grapes. This is especially the case with the Black Hamburgh, 
which is generally understood to be one of the easiest of Grapes 
to cultivate, although to bring this grand old Grape to the highest 
slate of perfection requires considerable cultural skill. Ordinary 
Black Hamburghs may be often seen, but superior examples of 
culture are not very frequent. During the early stages of growth, 
or just when the Vines are about being started, the borders are 
often kept in such a sodden condition that the rods fail to break 
satisfactorily. At this stage if the borders are in a fairly 
moistened condition it is quite sufficient, or even up to the time 
the new growths are 6 inches in length. When such is the case 
the small rootlets form more abundantly than they could when 
the border is sodden. 
Many other plants which had been shortened hack previous to 
making fresh giowth would be kept rather dry, and why not the 
Vine ? Take the Fuchsia for example ; when this has been pruned 
back the plants are kept occasionally syringed until fresh growth 
has fairly started, as it is pretty well known that to keep them 
heavily watered would defeat the end in view. 
Over watering pot Vines when just started often causes the 
dormant roots to decay. To be successful with these requires very 
close watching in watering, and until fresh rootlets commence 
forming keeping the soil fairly moist is sufficient. On more 
than one occasion when I have started pot Vines it has been up¬ 
wards of a month before water was applied, or even necessary, 
but the pots were plunged in leaves. Afterwards I had occasion 
to water these Vines three limes a day before the crop "nas- 
finished, so abundant were the roots. 
Some time since a well known writer stated that something 
must be radically wrong with the treatment of the Vines when 
they require attention in watering three times a day. I wonder- 
lie did not extend his observations to Strawberries in pots, as one 
is on a par with the other. My idea of watering a pot Vine is the- 
same as with other plants —/.e., apply w’ater when reeded, and I am 
of the same opinion with Vines in borders. Those under jny 
charge have less water applied to the roots than is generally con¬ 
sidered necessary, hut then the nature of the soil has to be taken 
into consideration, which is of a cold adhesive nature. It does not 
matter what correctives are added, it does not lose its true character. 
This is where many are led away ; they apply water abundantly, 
irrespective of the soil they have to deal with, thinking that they 
cannot apply too much. When the soil is of a very open description 
water may be more copiously applied, but not otherwise. 
A light mulchir^g will counteract the evil of having to apply 
too much water, but here caution is necessary, and this may prove 
very disadvantageous to the finish of the crop, and especially with 
outside borders in a dull and wet season. When it is found 
necessary to apply a mulching this should be open and not likely 
to obstruct the warmth to the border. Giving heavy coatings of 
raw manure is a mistake, and when we read of borders inside 
receiving so many inches in depth of cow manure, we cannot but 
feel concerned for the future prospects of the Vines, or even of 
the man in charge. Besides excluding warmth such material closes 
the pores of the soil and prevents the free admission of air. The 
size, construction, and nature of the material used in the formation 
of the border have to be taken into consideration when to apply 
mulching, and we may also add the character of the season. 
Except in the heat of summer outside borders seldom need 
mulching. At this time a depth of about 1 inch or 2 inches of well 
burned and screened garden refuse, sweet leaf soil, with a portion 
of well worked horse droppings, form an admirable covering. 
The manure is not absolutely necessary, but where surface roots 
are abundant it gives assistance as a stimulant. The above 
material besides acting as a mulch attracts the heat of the sun, 
and must be of the greatest importance to a cold soil. During the 
early stages of growth the soil should be allowed to become rather 
dry before applying water, the border thereby being kept in a 
more healthy condition, besides encouraging active feeders. As the 
growth advances and the stoning stage has safely passed, then 
more moisture, may be applied with advantage for finishing the 
crop. 
Borders that are too freely watered for the health of the Vine& 
soon lose their fertility, and in two or three years become a cold,, 
inert mass. Most undoubtedly there are thousands of Vines 
which do not receive nearly sufficient water, and especially on 
light or gravelly soils, which may be proved by the crops finishing 
more satisfactorily in a wet season. I am aware that restricted 
borders crammed with healthy roots require abundant waterings,, 
but even too much might easily be applied to these when the 
Vines are about being started, and previous to free root action. I 
have three restricted borders to deal with, and in each the Vines 
carry good crops of well finished bunches, but these require more- 
attention in watering than do the larger borders.—A. Young. 
HERBACEOUS PLANTS FOR EXHIBITION. 
The increas’ng demand for herbaceous plants renders any 
remarks respecting those best suited for exhibiting of service to¬ 
readors, the more so, perhaps, by reason of the fast approach of 
what may generally be regarded for many as the best planting 
season which the year affords, and if anything is conducive to- 
success it is planting at the proper season. From inquiries which 
come to hand from time to time I am well aware that many of 
those who grow hardy plants would like to exhibit them also, the- 
chief drawback being when any particular show day arrives some 
are past and others not sufficiently forward to ensure the required 
number, The exhibits of hardy plants which are seen at local 
or provincial shows are too frequently hadly arranged, and the- 
material employed too sparse to afford anything like a good idea 
of what hardy flowers should he. In many instances either 
annuals or biennials, or both, have to do duty for the herbaceous- 
plants, not from any desire to be in opposition to the requirements- 
of the schedules, but merely from want of information on the- 
subject, and hona fide errors, if I may be allowed the term—that is,, 
errors which are the outcome of ignorance, are overlooked by 
lenient judges and committee alike. But while I have nothing to- 
urge against extending leniency in particular cases, I cannot but 
think tlie step an unwise one which allows the continuation of the- 
error without any attempt to rectify it. When I came into this 
