April 16, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
299 
When the plants are large enough, place them singly into small 
pots (thumbs) in similar soil to that in which the seed was sown. 
At no time allow the plants to become root-bound. Repot them 
as often as required. A light free soil is required after the first 
potting, say three parts fibry loam, one part decayed leaves, half a 
part dried cow manure, and coarse sand according to the character 
of the loam, be it light or heavy. Pot moderately firm, and supply 
water carefully at all stages, never making the soil too wet, espe¬ 
cially a,fter potting. Many plants die suddenly and mysteriously, 
and this is more often due to careless watering than anything else. 
During the summer and early autumn syringe the foliage frequently 
in the evening, especially after a hot day. Admit abundance of 
-air to the frame on all favourable occasions. Keep the plants free 
from insect pests ; never wait for two aphides, but fumigate the 
plants with tobacco smoke directly one is seen. The Celery 
ot often disfigures the leaves by burrowing in the substance, 
•^nd upon the first signs of its presence search carefully, and remove 
with the point of a knife any that may be found. 
Keep the plants in cold frames standing on a base of coal ashes, 
which they enjoy much more than the dry air of a greenhouse, 
'.until about the middle of October, preserving the foliage from 
frost. At that time a cool greenhouse or pit from which frost can 
be easily kept suits them best. From the time the seed is sown 
natil the end of September shade must be provided, either by 
placing the frames behind a north wall, or applying a thick shade 
to them in any other position; the former plan, though, is 
the best, as it saves much labour. When the plants are in the 
greenhouse more water will be required, as the air of the house is 
♦h’ier. Weak liquid manure applied three times a week will 
improve their appearance, that from coav manure and soot being 
-the best.—S. 
EXHIBITION POTATOES. 
Potatoes always constitute an interesting feature at exhibitions, 
but only those who cultivate them for that special purpose can 
fully estimate the labour and time required in preparing for 
competition, whether it be single dishes or a given number of 
varieties, forming what is commonly called a “ collection.” 
Potatoes are the first essential in a collection of vegetables, no 
matter whether it be six dishes or twelve dishes, and readers who 
have not already aspired to be exhibitors in vegetables, and who 
contemplate doing so this year, should bear this in mind, for many 
a prize has been lost by the omission of these from among the 
varieties staged. 
Potatoes are displayed in a variety of ways at flower shows, 
some using open flat hampers, others flat trays or boxes ; a few 
persons employ some kind of greenery for garnishing, which may be 
fresh moss. Parsley, or Carrot leaves, while some stage them 
without any accompaniment. There is no question as to which 
has the best effect. Choose not the largest tubers, which are 
^usually badly shaped ; nor, on the other hand, select the small or 
undersized, but aim to get a smooth and even sample. Wash them 
with clean water and a sponge, and be careful to avoid breaking 
the skin. This work should be done directly they are lifted 
from the ground, placing them at once in a dark place, each wrapped 
iseparately in a strip of soft paper. 
In growing Potatoes for exhibition purposes much care must be 
exercised, and it is surprising what varying results soil has on this 
crop. Some enthusiasts who have a suitable soil may rely on a 
few roots to provide the requisite number of tubers for a dish, 
while others having ground less suited must grow a quantity to 
-secure even one dish suitable for competition. Light sandy soil, 
free from gritty matter, is the most suitable ; where this does not 
exist fine refuse soil from the potting bench helps considerably if 
placed around them at the time of planting. If manure is needed 
it should be thoroughly decayed and given in moderate quantities, 
rank manure predisposing to disease as well as other evils not 
contribu'ory to success in competition. It is best, too, applied to 
the soil in autumn, the latter thrown up as roughly as possible to 
expose the greatest possible surface to the action of frost and air. 
There are several large seedsmen who make a speciality of 
Potatoes for exhibicion, some of whom distribute a selection of 
varieties for the purpose. This is a capital arrangement for small 
growers, requiring but small outlay, while at the same time the 
best sorts are supplied for the purpose. 
The distances in planting must to some extent be guided by 
individual conveniences ; the grower who cultivates but a small 
plot can ill afford to allow the space another larger grower would 
deem advisable, the object of most amateur gardeners being to 
secure the largest weight possible from their restricted plot. The 
aspirations and means of numberless cottage gardeners do 
not lead them to migrate beyond local events ; such being the case. 
estimation may be made of the quantity required for any particular 
class or classes, allotting more than ordinary space for the require¬ 
ments of the exhibition sorts. These should be allowed 30 
inches between the rows, and a proportionate distance dividing the 
sets. 
Methods of planting are varied, most persons having their own 
favourite style ; but the intending exhibitor should not be content 
by planting with a dibber, this being the least satisfactory of all. 
My favourite plan is to put them in with the fork, digging the 
ground as the work proceed^. This leaves the soil light and 
open, so that the roots can ramify without any obstruction. The 
severe nature of the past winter will make the work of planting 
easy with those who dug or trenched their ground up roughly 
before the frost commenced. By no means should the work be 
attempted while the soil is wet, for nothing is more fatal to the 
after treatment of the present or future crops. The tubers being 
duly prepared by exposing them to the light in shallow trays, no 
occasion will arise for undue haste in committing them to the 
ground, and if any vaiiety should be so limited as to require some 
of the largest being cut it should be done early enough for the 
wounds to be healed somewhat before planting time. A careful 
watch must be kept for the appearance of the growing shoots, for 
should late spring frosts prevail much damage attends the exposure 
of their delicate tops. This can be avoided by drawing some of 
the dry surface soil over them with the hoe, repeating it as 
occasion arise. The usual routine must be followed, moulding 
them up finally before the tops get very tall and the roots 
widely extended.—W. S., Frome. 
ZONAL PELARGONIUMS FOR WINTER 
FLOWERING. 
There are few plants pay better for good cultivation than the 
above whether for cutting purposes or for conservatory decora 
tion. Their perpetual flowering habit, together with their wide 
range of colour, render them indispensable to those having to keep 
up an unbroken supply of decorative plants and cut flowers. 
Their culture is comparatively easy, but to obtain the best 
results for winter the plants must be well prepared and receive 
special attention through the summer ; but even well prepared 
plants will not continue blooming through the dull months of 
winter unless they can be placed near the glass in a light warm 
house and a dry buoyant atmosphere maintaiced. A well heated 
span-roof house running north and south, with ventilators for 
admitting air just under the hot-water pipes, and on both sides 
in the apex of the roof, is the best form of house for flowering 
Zonals through the winter. For flowering next winter no time 
should be lost in striking the cuttings, for it is most important to 
have their flowering pots well filled with roots early in the autumn. 
They may be inserted either singly in 3-inch pots or about six in 
6-inch pots, but the former will be found the most economical 
unless space is very limited. There is no need for placing Zonal 
cuttings in a propagating case or even shading them from the sun, 
but a fairly moist temperature ranging from 55“ to 65°, or a vinery 
just started will suit them well. When rooted they should be re¬ 
moved to a greenhouse and grown close to the glass under cool 
airy conditions. To have the plants bushy and symmetrical their 
points should be taken out, and if possible not less than three 
shoots secured to each plant, and these again should be stopped 
about the last week in June and two more breaks secured from 
each of the three shoots, which will result in dwarf stocky plants 
having six shoots each. 
After the first breaks have been secured the plants should be 
placed into their largest pots (5-inch and 6-inch). If properly 
attended to they will be established in the pots early in J une, and 
then they are best stood out of doors on a bed of ashes in a sunny 
position. Remove all buds as they appear until six weeks before 
the plants are wanted in flower, and when the pots are full of roots 
assist the plants by giving them clear liquid manure every alter¬ 
nate watering; this should be of a varied description, and con¬ 
tinued with discretion all through the winter. 
We like to have the plants housed early in September, so as to 
provide abundance of venlilition for some time, as if they are sub¬ 
jected to anything approaching a close atmosphere the best leaves will 
turn yellow and fall, and the plants will thus receive a severe check 
at a very bad time. All through the winter they must be kept near 
the glass, and a dry bracing atmosphere maintained by a judicious 
use of the ventilators and hot-Avater pipes. I have said nothing 
about soil and potting, as this deservts more thaii a passing notice. 
A sturdy short-jointed growth must be aimed at in growing Zonals. 
A thin, sappy, attenuated growth will be of no use for winter. 
Three parts good fibry rather stiff loam, one part half-decayed 
leaf mould, half a part old thoroughly pulverised cow manure, and 
