April IG, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
SOI 
produced by each plant. As soon as the leaves have attained a length 
of 8 or 9 inches, two or three of those (round the outside of stools) 
having the greatest number of suckers must be taken off with a few 
root fibres attached. These offsets can then be planted with a garden 
trowel in clumps of three each set triangularly, 7 or 8 inches apart. 
Allow these clumps a space of 3 feet between the rosvs, and the same 
'slistance from clump to clump in the row. In planting make the soil 
firm about each plant with the hand.?, after which (in the absence of 
rain) they must bo watered, to settle the soil about the roots, repeating 
the application at intervals of three or four days, until the roots have 
taken to the soil and the plants begin growing. Plant them about 
4 inches deep, after which the ground may be forked over, a surface 
slressing of manure of about 3 inches thick being laid on the soil. These 
plants will yield a good supply in the autumn, and long after those 
planted a year or two previously have ceased bearing. It is a good plan 
■to destroy a row or two of old plants every year, and to form an equal 
number of rows of yoirng ones. The offset, or sucker plants, may also 
"be used for filling any vacancies in the established plantations during 
the winter. In the southern parts of the kingdom Artichokes will be 
ditto cut during ordinary seasons the last week in June or the first 
•week in July, and in the northern parts ten or fifteen days later. Cut 
!the heads before the crown or top leaves show signs of parting—before 
■they push into flower ; otherwise they will be unfit for use. 
Keep the beds free from weeds during the summer and autumn, 
and as soon as the crop is taken from each of the flower stems they 
-should be cut down, and all dead leaves should be removed at the same. 
Before frost sets in—say, some time in November—a good thickness of 
■■stable litter must be wrapped well round each plant close to the ground, 
and up nearly to the top of the leaves, as a protection from frost, 
following this with a surface dressing of half-decayed manure between 
the plants, this being forked into the ground the following April, 
when, as already stated, blanks in plantations caused by frost can be 
filled in the manner indicated.—H. W. "iV''ARD. 
GREEN FLY ON PEACH TREES—SETTING THE 
FRUIT. 
It might be concluded from what has been written that these pests 
-spring spontaneously into life upon Peach trees about the time they 
flower. No doubt a check to the tree.s or unsuitable atmospheric 
conditions will predispose the trees to attack. But these causes cannot 
bring the insects into existence, neither will syringing nor other treat¬ 
ment, however wise and good, prevent their appearance. Strawberries 
■are frequently syringed, and yet it fails to prevent aphides establishing 
themselves on these iplants during their early stages. Before plants or 
'Peach trees are attacked the insects must exist either in the house or on 
4he trees in some form until the temperature of the house and other 
conditions arc favourable for their development. I am not surprised 
sthat aphides appear annually on Peach trees. I should be surprised if 
Ahey did not when we consider the plants—including Strawberries, 
'Chrysanthemums, and others—that are placed in these structures at 
various seasons of the year, especially early in the season when the 
houses are closed. For example, only a short time ago after being in a 
Ihouae where Richardias were being removed for fumi'jation I went to a 
■Peach house and commenced disbudding, while pulling off my coat 
■discovered aphides crawling about on it. 
A sharp look out is needed to destroy the pests directly they are 
noticed, and before any damage is done. If we wait until the trees are 
cut of bloom before fumigating them very often considerable injury is 
■done. It is true the insects can be kept in check by dusting the affected 
qsarts with tobacco powder, or spraying the young shoots with tobacco 
water or some insecticide ; but it is difficult to destroy all, because they 
■soon establish themselves in the blooms. Suitable tobacco paper is very 
<lifficult to obtain ; it is scarcely safe to use when the trees are in 
bloom—in fact, much of the paper now sold will injure the plants and 
mot kill the green fly. 
Good crops can be obtained by syringing the trees, but care and 
judgment arc needed. It is not safe to trust this operation in the hands 
<of a careless man. Full sets can be obtained without, and I have 
never seen any beneficial results from syringing. In late cool houses 
that are full of plants syringing would be more likely to prove injurious 
4,han the reverse. I have on several occasions had to shake the trees 
■thoroughly to rid the flowers of moisture that has become deposited in 
them about ten o’clock, so as to give the pollen a chance of drying 
"thoroughly by midday. Our method of sotting for years has been with 
•all kinds to maintain a circulation of air when the weather is favour¬ 
able, and then give the trees a good shaking at midday. On dull days 
we raise the temperature slightly until the pollen will fly freely. I am 
*of opinion that failure often results from maintaining too high a 
temperature during the flowering per'od. A temperature of 50° at night 
3s ample, with a rise of 5° on dull days, with an advance of 5° or 10° 
more by sun heat. Rather than admit cold cutting winds we allow the 
temperature to rise considerably higher.— Wm. Baedxey. 
For many years I was troubled with green fly on Peaches when they 
■were in flower, and found the insects very difficult to get rid of, as the 
house could not be smoked without injuring the blooms. I tried a good 
smoking just as they were opening their first blcoms, but that did not 
prevent the pests coming, although they did not seem to come so soon. 
Our Peaches are not trained under the glass in the usual way, but 
upright across the house, and the house is filled with Chrysanthemums 
by the middle of September. As soon as they arc in they have a good 
smoking, and since doing so I have not been troubled with green fly 
while the Peaches are in flower. I have come to the conclusion this 
smoking kills the green fly which may come into the house, and I think 
if all our houses were fumigated at that time we shouM not suffer so 
much the following spring and summer frciu green fly as we do, and 
most plants are hardier in the autumn and can stand smoke much better 
than they can in the spring. 
I do not think a hou.se cm be so thoroughly cleansed during the 
winter months to reach them, as it seems natural for them to secrete in 
crevices beyond the reach of their enemies. Although much may be 
done by destroying them in oil walls outside, we had a garden wall 
(covered with Peaches and Apricots) which was full of nail holes, and 
as we were very much troubled with green fly we gave the wall a 
washing of fresh slaked lime, working it well into the holes in March, 
and wo have never been troubled so much with the p'cst since.—■ 
Alma. 
DELICATE DAFFODILS. 
Under the albicans and cernuus series of the Ajax section of 
Narcissus pseudo-Narcissus some beautifully delicate white and sulphur 
Daffodils are included, and amongst these the variety here figured 
FIG. 55.—DAFFODIL DR. HOGG. 
(Di'. Hogg) is one of the most elegant. It has a white perianth with a 
long even corona slightly recurving at the margin and of a soft sulphur 
tint fading to white. Tnc illustration was [)rep3red from flowers shown 
by Messrs. Barr & Son, King Street, Covent Gartlen, wlio have paid 
much attention to these white and creamy Daffodils. 
The following are a few well marked forms :—Antoinette Sterling, 
uniform srdphur, trumpet having an elegantly spreading brim ; 
Cernuus, perianth and trumpet silvery white and of the same length, 
early, and very' beautiful; Cernuus pulcher, jierianth silveiy white, with 
a large bold spreading primrose trumpet, passing to white; Colleen 
Bawn, perianth and trumpet pure white, broad and twisted, graceful and 
early ; Countess of Desmond, perianth sulphur, trumpet rich primrose 
yellow; C. W. Cowan, perianth white, trumpet sulphur, very distinct 
and elegant ; Duchess of Connaught, perianth and trumpet primrose 
passing off white, neat flower ; Lady Grosvenor, perianth white, trumpet 
sulphur white, brim elegantly recurved, very distinct ; Madame de 
Graaff, this is the largest of all white Trumpet Daffodils, perianth and 
trumpet pure white and of groat substance ; Marchioness of Lome, 
perianth sulphur white, trumpet primrom, brim elegantly recurved ; 
Mrs. F. W. Burbidge, perianth white, trumpet straight, primrose passing 
to snow white ; Mrs. J. B. M. Camm, perianth white and elegant, 
trumpet sulphur white, very graceful and distinct; Moschatus of 
Haworth (the snow white Spanish Daffodil), variable in size of flower, a 
charming var'ety, and the wbiter-t of all Trumpet Daffodils, for 
pots, edging, beds, and bouquets ; Princess Ida, large white perianth, 
large handsome white trumpet, brim flanged and conspicuously edged 
golden yellow ; Silver Bar, iierianth pale primrose, trumpet lemon 
yellow; Sir Stafford Northcote, perianth white, long pile sulphur 
trumpet, robust and distinct ; Snowflake, white, tinged apricot, passing 
off pure white, very distinct and handsome ; Tortuosus (^Leda), perianth. 
