818 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 23, Igftl,. 
indispensable in a flower of the highest cult. However, for 
cut flower purposes these are never missed, and most people, 
unless told what they are, will never notice anything amiss. Of 
these sorts named above from a dozen to a thousand each may 
be grown according to requirements, and there will be no fear of 
disappointment. 
Culture under glass may be divided into two sections, the one 
to provide flowers late in autumn and during winter, and the other 
in late spring and during early summer. The stock for both of 
these sections may readily be worked up from layers, or young 
plants may be propagated from cuttings struck in heat in early 
spring. In either case the culture is of the simples*'. The points 
to particularly note are these. If struck in heat as soon as root 
action begins transfer to a cooler and an airy structure. Be very 
careful not to pinch overmuch. I have seen some plants rendered 
so late from overpinching as to be useless for that season. To 
flower in autumn the buds must be formed during summer, and 
for winter and spring blooming the buds must be formed by 
autumn. It will be found much better to keep the plants cool 
until wanted with the buds ready than it is to keep growing during 
the shorter days in order to get them up to time. Keeping the 
plants quite free from aphides, and attention to watering, are the 
other points of importance. The plants to supply flowers in late 
spring and summer—a most important time for those who require 
flowers for the London season—ought to be kept growing very 
gently through the winter months, and be grown thereafter in a 
cool house. I propagate by layers during the preceding summer for 
these, and by means of this simple treatment there is no difficuby 
in securing flowers from the middle of March until outdoor plants 
are ready to cut. The queen of all autumn and early winter sorts 
is, without doubt. Miss Jolilfe. G-ermania is also first-rate, and a 
batch of Mdmiison should be prepared for this time. For the 
time included in the second period Malmaisons stand at the head of 
all other sorts, and along with them I now grow Mrs. Muir, 
Germania, Comtesse de Paris, Gloire de Nancy, Madame A. 
AVarocque, and H. A. Elliot, and, in addition, I have generally a 
good many in one to three of a sort on trial. These are all of 
strong growing habit, producing many flowers on each stem and 
Avith long stalks. Yery good results are obtainable from plants in 
5-inch pots. These take little room, and each plant fuimishes a 
many-flowered stem. I have had them in smaller pots, but do 
not advise their use. Carnations, if well supplied with moisture, 
thrive on oft-repeated surface-dressings of chemical manures. The 
pots, it may also be noted, should never be allowed to stand in a 
position where the direct rays of the sun can dry their contents. 
As to the position Carnations hold as cut flowers and the 
manner they are best employed, there is no doubt that they hold 
a very prominent place, and each year they appear to be gaining on 
their hold. As flowers suited for personal adornment there are 
none better. In the house they are always acceptable. For table 
decorations the pink and blush Malmaisons are very highly esteemed, 
and among yellow flowers used for the same purpose Germania has 
already taken a high place. There is no nicer method of arranging for 
table than by placing each Malmaison into a small glass globe or on 
occasion on the cloth. The smaller flowered varieties can be arranged 
in small globes several together, invariably employing good foliage 
of any common variety. Broad curling leafage is best. Few 
arrangements are more effective in summer than yellow or white 
or Mrs. Reynolds Hole Carnations, either each employed alone or 
in combination two at a time, or all three. These and other 
sorts do well in taller tube-shaped glasses. In these it is possible 
to make a much better effect, as the flowers can be employed with 
long stalks and with flowers in different stages of development 
on the same stem. We may secure an infinitely superior flower 
arrangement by employing only one stem of flowers and but a 
few leaves than it were possible by a greater number. On this 
account it is a difficult flower to arrange well. 
When arranging in vases in public rooms the kind I like is a not 
too large tubular glass of equal width of tube and with a narrow 
rim, and in this is arranged a few stems of a particular sort. For 
this purpose I do not think any surpasses Mrs. Reynolds Hole. In 
this sort you secure a tall branching stem 2 feet in length if yon 
please, and with three of these and as many strong growths for 
setting a most lovely arrangement is secured. Mrs. Muir, Comtesse 
de Paris, and Redbraes lend themselves freely to this style. As ai 
rule the natural arching habit of the plants should be taking advan¬ 
tage of ; but where this cannot be done in small or flat glasses- 
then avoid all approach to sameness. It is much better to use- 
plenty of growths for a rough foundation and a setting, and add* 
as few flowers as possible, set in a natural manner.—N. B. 
CULTURE OF THE CALCEOLARIA. 
Wherever Cinerarias and Primulas are grown Calceolarias 
find a place also. This is not to be wondered at, for their beautiful 
pouch-like flowers present to the eye a display quite as gorgeous 
as any plants in cultivation. From a packet of seed plants with 
self-coloured flowers in shades of crimson, lemon, orange, marooif, 
rose, and other intermediate shades may be secured, also the 
m'^re delicate spotted, laced, and other forms, the whole producing 
a charming effect, over which the eye of the lover of colour never 
seems to tire. Though easy to cultivate, still in many instances 
they are found, alas ! too often, in a most indifferent condition, and 
struggling through a brief existence, and in many cases entirely 
ruined by the pest which most infests them—viz, “ green fly.'’" 
These thoughts are prompted by a glance at the plants, which are 
pushing up fine strong flower spikes, and which will soon be ready 
to take the place of the last Cinerarias ; and as the time will be 
soon approaching when the cultivator will be turning his attention 
and thinking of his stock for another season, a few notes on their 
cultivation may not be out of place in the Journal. 
The first point to consider in the successful cultivation of this 
plant is the sowing. Mix a compost composed chiefly of leaf 
mould, finely sifted, and sand. Crock the pans or pots carefully,, 
and over the crocks place a thin covering of rough leaf mould, 
and fill nearly level to the rim with the compost recommended, 
press the soil firmly, and make the surface quite level. As the 
seed is so minute care is needed in sowing, and it must be covered 
very slightly. Water through a very fine rose, place a sheet of glass 
over the pan, and remove to a cool frame or house, and shade from 
the sun. I have not advised the number of sowings to be made, as 
that must be considered by the amount of space at command. The 
Last week in May or first week in June is early enough for the first 
sowings, which may be repeated until the end of July. I would 
sooner sow two or three weeks earlier than subject the seed to 
heat, as I have often seen done, with a view to hurrying the plants 
on. To do so is to court failure, and many instances of sickly grown 
plants may be attributed to this cause as much as to any other. 
As the young seedlings become large enough prick off into pans 
or small pots, using much the same compost as that before men¬ 
tioned. If this moisture is used and the seedlings carefully watered 
there is not nearly the same risk attending their damping as if 
placed in a heavier compost. A cool frame with a bed of ashes 
having a north or east aspect will be the most suitable place for 
them. As the pots become filled with roots shift into larger 
ones. Six-inch pots are very useful, but if large plants are required 
the size may be extended to 10-inch pots. The compost we have 
used for many years with great success is as follows Two parts 
leaf mould, one part good fibry loam, either red sandstone or char¬ 
coal broken small, with a fair sprinkling of bonemeal and silver 
sand. The pots are crocked, and on the crocks is placed a layer 
of flaky leaf mould, and the soil in the pots made firm and then 
transferred to frames. When the plants have taken to the new soil 
we syringe twice a day, completely wetting every part of the foliage. 
As they cannot remain long in the frames after the final potting we 
remove them to a house facing east, from which frost is just excluded. 
AY is admitted on every favourable occasion, and when the pots 
become filled with roots liquid manure should be given twice or 
thrice a week. This not only produces fine healthy foliage, but on 
this depends the vigour whereby the plants can carry stout flower- 
spikes. The plants may be fumigated twice, and this ought to be 
ample if the plants have been well grown. To increase the size of 
the plants the points may be pinched out of a portion of them. 
This induces a branching habit and retards the flowering as well. In 
conclusion, the chief aids to their successful cultivation may be 
summed up. Grow the plants from start to finish as cool as pos¬ 
sible. Let the compost be rich and porous. Water unsparingly 
when required, syringe on every favourable occasion, and ventilate 
