322 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 23, 18911 
March and April 70° by day and G5° at night will be suitable by 
fire heat, with 10° added by sun heat. Du'ing May, June, July, 
and August the day temperature may be 75° by day, to 85° or 90° 
by sun heat, with 70° at night, reducing these temperatures 5° 
during September if the growth is in a forward state ; if not in 
that forward con'lition the temperature must be kept up to finish 
the growth in that month ; afterwards it may again be lowered to 
65° by day and 60° at night during Oc^obe”. Remove the plants 
to cooler quarters for three months where they can be exposed to 
plenty cf light. These temperatures apply to the East Indian 
Dendrobiums, but there are many from Australia, Japan, China, 
and northei-n India that maybe grown in much lower temperatures 
in vineries, and enjoy the same treatment as the Vines growing 
and resting with them, the shade from the Vines suiting them 
while making growth, and exposing them in the autumn to ripen 
in the lightest position in the house, with a circulation of air. 
Waterixg and Shading. 
Supply water liberally in the growing season, as they require 
plenty to sustain the young growth. After they have made a few 
inches of gi-owth, and are showing young roots on the surface, the 
compost must never be allowed to become dry ; at that time 
a moist atmosphere is also essential, and must be regulated by the 
state of the weather. If it is hot the demand is greater than 
in dull, cloudy, or wet weather. If in good condition the growth 
will be complete by the end of September, when the supply 
must be gradually reduced to induce rest. 
Shading is necessary during the hottest months while the 
growth is young, but must be discontinued when approaching 
maturity, to ripen the strong growth previous to rest, or shrivelling 
will be the consequence. 
Resting and Flowering. 
After the growth is finished Dendrobiums may be allowed a 
good season of rest by moving them into a cooler but dry house, 
such as a vinery where Grapes are hinging, and require just 
sufficient heat in the pipes to drive away damp. During the time 
they are resUng they must have very little water, only sufficient 
to prevent the stems shrivelling, and it is better to give none in 
hard frosty weather, as they can stand a lower temperature much 
better when quite dry. This is the only way to make them grow 
vigorously and flower freely. 
Many of these that made an early growth will show flowers in 
January, and may be introduced into heat again as required for 
succession, withholding water until the bloom buds are well 
advanced ; for if water is given too soon it induces the plants to 
start growth, which weakens the flowering considerably. 
Insects. 
When green and yellow aphides appear in spring on the young 
flower buds they may be destroyed by fumigation with tobacco 
smoke, or by sponging the plants with rain water and a little 
softsoap added at the rate of 1 oz. to the gallon of water. Thrip^, 
red spider, mealy bug, and scale will be troublesome if the plants 
are not in good condition, and must be kept in check by sponging 
with the same solution, a small portion of tobacco water being 
added, or any other approved insecticides according to the directions 
given. A free use of the syringe duiing the growing season, with 
plenty of heat and a circulation of air, will prevent any serious 
attack of these pests, and prevention is always better than cure. 
Cockroaches, crickets, woodlice, and snails must also be looked after 
and trapped, for they are very destructive, eating the points of the 
young roots, which weakens the growth of the plant seriously. 
They must be sought for both day and night, searching for them 
by candlelight when they are out feeding, and in the day by 
moving the pots, or any place where they are likely to harbour. 
Woodlice and small snails may be trapped by cutting Potatoes in 
two, scooping out the inside and placing them on the pots and 
stages. Turnips cut in slices will answer the purpose, also small 
flower pots, with a little dry moss or hay covering a little boiled 
Potato at the bottom of the inside, and laid on their sides in 
different parts of the house, are, if examined daily, very effectual 
traps. Phosphor paste laid on bits of paper about the house at 
night is also very good ; beetle powder answering the same 
purpose by using it in a similar manner in small quantities and 
repeated at frequent intervals, as it is no use after it is wet. It is 
better to move these mixtures away in the morning, and lay them 
again on the second or third night after ; persevering with these 
preparations will eventually clear these pests away, or at all events 
keep them down to smaT numbers. 
The following are suitable for vinery treatment :—D. nobile, 
D. moniliforme, D. chrysanthum, D. speciosum, D. Hilli, D. pul- 
chellum, D. densiflorum, D. thyrsiflorum, D. Devonianum, 
D. Falconer', D. Farmer!, D. fimbriatum, D. heterocarpum. 
D. Jamesianum, D. lituiflorum, D. crassinode, D. Wardianum, 
and D. Deari. 
Stove Dendrobiums :—D. aggregatum, D. albo-sanguineum,. 
D. Bensoniae, D. bigibbum, D. Brymerianum, D. chrysotoxum, 
D. crepidatum, D. cretaceum, D. crystallinum, D. Dalhousieanum, 
D. eburneum, D. formosum and f. giganteum, D. Harveyanumy 
D. infundibulum, D. macrophyllum, D. Parishi, D. primulinum, 
D. Schroederi, D. suavissimum, D. superbiens, D. tortile and tortile, 
roseum. 
THE BOUVARDIA. 
The Bouvardia is undoubtedly one of the most useful winter 
flowering plants for a warm house, yet it is seldom found well 
grown in any quantity outside the nurseries that make a speciality 
of it for market purposes. The reason, I believe, is that it is. 
grown in too much heat. A stove temperature is not required,, 
but a warm greenhouse or intermediate house is the best for^th& 
flowering season. I have been very successful with Bouva,raias,. 
and find them so useful that I will describe my treatment in the 
hope that some who have not been able to grow it well may obtain 
a serviceable hint. 
In the first place I take the cuttings at the beginning of March,^ 
and insert them five or six in 3-inch pots, and plunge them in 
gentle heat in a warm house. When roots are formed I place the 
plants singly in 3-inch pots and transfer to a Cucumber frame with 
a little bottom heat to start them, after which they are removed to 
another fiame by themselves. The bed is made so that the plants 
are as near the glass as possible to prevent their drawing, and 
they are then stopped for the first tim^. When they are ready for 
attention again they are placed into 6-inch pots, which is the siz& 
I find convenient for the shelves on which I place them to flower. 
At this last potting I employ rather stronger soil than previously, 
and mix ground bones and Thomson’s plant manure with tho 
fibry loam, leaf mould, and sharp sand. I grow the plants in cold' 
frames until the nights are cold in autumn, closing early, and giving 
a sprinkling with a fine rose, and keeping the shoots stopped until 
they are bushy plants, when they are removed to slate shelves 
before mentioned, slate along the back of a warm greenhouse. 
After the pots are well filled with roots a top-dressing of Clay’s 
fertiliser or Standen’s manure is given occasionally, which enables 
the plants to keep che whole of their leaves through the season. 
They commence flowering at the end of October, and continue 
until February, when they are cut down, placed in brisk heat, and 
they then break and produce young shoots freely for cuttings. 
The old plants from which cuttings are taken are kept in a cooler 
house until I am able to plant them out in a frame, and take them 
up earlier than I house the young plants, and secure earlier flowers, 
thus prolonging the season. I never keep plants longer two 
years. The varieties I find most useful are President Garfield, 
Alfred Neuner, Priory Beauty, President Cleveland, Humboldtii, 
Corymhiflora, Hogarth, and Vreelandi; although a few more 
varieties are grown.—R. C. Williams, Crosswood Parle Gardensf, 
Aberystwith. 
HEATING BY STEAM. 
In the Journal of Horticulture of the 16th inst. your correspondent 
“ Omega,” asks for information as to this mode of heating. On reading 
this I at once drew the attention of Mr. John Pope to it, and obtained 
some information from him which I hope may ass’st “ Omega.” 
Mr. John Pope, of Messrs. Pope & Sons, King’s Norton, near Bir¬ 
mingham, about four years since built a large b’oek of glass houses at 
Middleton, close to his residence, near King’s Norton, and fitted up 
with hot-water apparatus. During a visit to the United States he 
w s struck with the efficacy of heating by steam at the late Mr. Peter 
Henderson’s nurseries, as referred to by Mr. James Laing in his paper 
read before our association ; and he determined to try steam power 
as a heating medium in three of the houses in this new block of glass.. 
The houses are from 100 to 120 feet long I think, and that nearest to the 
boilers is a lofty and wide structure for planted out Camellias and 
Roses. The boilers are placed in an adjoining shed. Questions put to 
Mr. Pope brought from him the following replies. To “ Omega’s ” first, 
question, “ What is the pressure on pipes and boilers ?” Mr. Pope 
replies, “ It depends upon the length of the house. Let us say 100 feet 
long with 3-inch pipes would require a pressure on the boiler of 25 lbs. 
to the inch. The supply pipe from the steam boiler need not be more- 
than half an inch or one inch diameter, as the pressure on it is merely 
nominal, and any ordinary gas piping will do ; and the usual make of 
hot-water pipes of 3 inch or more diameter answers excellently.” 
To question 2, “ Whether a good ordinary hot-water vertical, 
with plenty of room for steam chambers would do?” Mr. Pope says,. 
“ It must be a steam boiler, as any ordinary hot-water boiler would not 
be safe at such high pressure as may be necessary. A good steam boiler 
will stand a pressure of from 80 lbs. to 100 lbs. to the inch.” Then in 
reply to other inquiries, Mr. Pope adds, “ The steam is generated in the. 
steam chamber, and passes through the small pipe from the boiler into 
