332 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 23, 1891. 
furnishing bearing wood next season, and a few left at intervals of 
9 inches along the branches to keep up a steady growth and prevent 
any check to the development of the fiuit. These will afterwards need 
stopping at the third or fourth leaf. He careful not to disturb the young 
fruits where these ought to remain On the trees, but at the third time of 
going over the trees they may be thinned out to 3 inches apart, leaving 
the largest and those that are in the best position for future develop¬ 
ment. The shoots left for bearing wood next year must be on the upper 
side of the branches. In most instances one at the base of last year’s 
wood will be sufficient, except for young trees and those having more 
wall space to fill. These will require young wood laying in at intervals 
■of 12 to 18 inches throughout the whole length of last year’s wood. All 
terminal shoots should be allowed to grow until the final disbudding, 
when those not required for extension may be stopped at the third or 
fourth leaf. 
Insects .—Green fly is sure to appear early on outdoor Peaches and 
Nectarines, and if left for many days unchecked it is very difficult to 
dislodge effectually. As soon as any trace of it is seen puff tobacco 
powder on with a distributor when the leaves are damp, and if many 
of them are blistered or curled pick them off and burn them. It is a 
good plan to syringe the trees with tobacco water occasionally as a pre¬ 
ventive of fly. We use the London tobacco juice, and place about three- 
quarters of a pint in 3 gallons of soft water, stirring it well and applying 
it in the afternoon after strong sunshine has ceased ; it should not be 
rinsed off the trees, as it will not injure the foliage at the above strength. 
Trees that have been previously attacked by red spider should be 
syringed with Gishurst compoiand occasionally at a strength of 1 to 
2 ozs, to the gallon. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early Forced Tines .—Red spider usually appears in early 
liouses, and spreads with remarkable rapidity. Where it infests a house 
extensively it is difficult to deal with, but if care be taken to sponge the 
first infected leaves with softsoap and water there is seldom need to resort 
to such measures as painting the hot-water pipes when heated to 1G0° or 
more with sulphur mixed with milk. The latter is often highly pre¬ 
judicial, causing the skin of the Grapes to harden and inducing cracking, 
whilst it injures the tender-skinned varieties irreparably, causing 
Muscats to assume a purple tint. Where red spider appears on Vines 
the fruit of which is colouring use sulphur on the pipes carefully, or if 
only a few leaves are infested sponge them with a solution of softsoap, 
2 ozs. to the gallon. 
To Vines with the Grapes colouring afford a thorough watering, 
mulching afterwards. This refers to the inside border. Early Grapes 
do not always colour well, the defect arising from overcropping or hard 
forcing ; it is avoided by a constant supply of dry warm air and a low 
night temperature. Where Grapes are fully ripe a reduction in tempera¬ 
ture is advisable, yet moderate moisture must be maintained for the 
benefit of the foliage. The moisture will not do the Grapes any harm 
provided the air is changed by free ventilation. Afford a temperature 
of G0°. 
Succession Houses .—Attend to stopping and tying the shoots. 
Where the space is restricted stop the shoots two joints beyond the 
fruit, and as foliage is necessary leave the laterals on the shoots both 
above and below the bunch, or at least those from the two lowest eyes 
and those level with and above the bunch. Pinch these at the first 
joint, especially the basal ones, also above unless there is space for ex¬ 
tending the laterals, when they may be allowed to make two or three 
leaves, but no more growth must be encouraged than can have exposure 
to light and air. After the space is fairly furnished keep the growth 
closely pinched to one joint as made. Where there is more space 
stopping will not take place until growdh has extended four or more 
joints beyond the fruit. The great evil is overcrowding, which deprives 
the foliage of the essential light and air, and restricting the growths is 
intended to prevent that. 
Itoiitine .—Tie the shoots into the places where they are to remain 
during the summer is an operation wdiich commands much attention. 
It is a common practice to commence tying down the shoots as soon as 
they are long enough to bend. This is not advisable except as a pre¬ 
caution against injury from frost, as the shoots at this stage are so 
tender that the slightest twist the wrong wuay breaks them. It is a 
better plan to defer tying down until the shoots are less sappy, wffiich 
may be when the fruit is forming, but a better plan still is to so 
dispose the rod that the shoots, instead of having to be brought down to 
a nearly horizontal position, will have an incline upward, yet suffi¬ 
ciently outward to admit light to the basal leaves of the shoots. Afford 
Muscats in flower a free circulation of rather dry air and a temperature 
of 80° to 83° or 90° by day, falling to 70° or 65° at night, raising the 
points of the bunches to the light and liberate the pollen at midday by 
gently rapping the footstalks of the bunches. If there is a deficiency of 
pollen take it from those that afford it plentifully, as Black Hamburghs 
and Foster’s Seedling, and apply it to the shy setting varieties with a 
■camel-hair brush. 
Thinning .—Where there is a quantity of Grapes to be thinned 
commence as soon as they are out of bloom with the free-setting 
varieties, such as Black Hamburghs, and some, like Gros Colman, Gros 
Guillaume, and Trebbiano, may be thinned whilst they are in flower ; 
but Muscat of Alexaniria, Lady Downe’s, and Mrs. Pince must not be 
thinned until the properly fertilised berries can be determined by their 
taking the lead in swelling. Follow it up early and late, and on dull 
days. Surplus bunches may be removed boldly, as overcropping is alike 
fatal to w'ell swelled berries as to colour and finish, also next year’s crop. 
Feed swelling crops liberally, either by surface dressings w'orked in 
or liquid manure, and maintain a moist genial condition of the 
atmosphere. 
Young Vines .—Those planted last year are breaking naturally, and 
may be assisted wuth gentle fire heat in cold weather. The canes will 
have been depressed so as to cause to break regularly down to the basal 
buds, when they can be tied in position. Disbud, leaving the best shoots 
about 18 inches apart on both sides of the canes. Crop very lightly, 
one or two bunches being the maximum. Any extra Vines planted to 
fruit early and afterwards to be cut out, may carry a bunch on every 
side growth, but six to eight bunches according to their vigour are more 
satisfactory than a greater number to a Vine. 
Planting Vines .—This is a good time for planting young canes. The 
borders are preferably partly wfithin and partly outside in successful 
practice, planting the Vines inside the house ; but for Muscats and early 
forcing the borders are best wholly inside. If the subsoil is unfavour¬ 
able the border must be concreted. Avoid asphalte and cement, but 
bricks on flat laid in cement answer very w'cll, yet Vine roots do not 
appreciate the asphalte and cement nearly as w'ell as concrete formed 
of gravel and lime. If the substratum be gravel or other porous sub¬ 
stance concrete is not necessary. Provide drains with proper fall and 
outlet to carry off the superfluous w'ater, the bottom inclining to them. 
Rubble a foot thick should be placed on the concrete, 9 inches of clean 
rubble, and 3 inches thickness of old mortar rubbish, freed from pieces 
of w'ood and the finer particles by passing it through a half-inch sieve ; 
24 to 27 inches depth of border is ample. Turf 3 inches thick, taken off 
loam preferably friable than very tenacious over limestone, broken up 
roughly and mixed with a sixth of old mortar rubbish and charcoal, 
forms a suitable compost, but well drained and fertile garden soil will 
grow Grapes after the first “ flush ” of the turf is over quite as well. 
Bones are just as well kept out of the compost, using them, however, in 
bonemeal or superphosphate form as surface dressings, thereby keeping 
the roots near the surface and feeding them as required. 
The Vines cut back in winter and kept in a cool house now have 
shoots 2 or 3 inches long. Turn them out of the pots, remove every 
particle of soil, carefully preserving the fibres. Spread the roots out 
straight and flat, the soil of the border having been brought to the 
required level, covering the roots to the depth of 3 or 4 inches, working 
the soil well amongst them with the hand, and giving a good supply of 
water at a temperature of 90°, mulching with a little short litter. If 
the canes have not been shortened do not cut them now, but remove the 
buds from the upper portion down to where fresh grow'ths are desired 
to issue, and cut awmy the disbudded part wffien the Vines have made 
some loaves, as there is then no danger of bleeding, nor will any take 
place from rubbing off the buds after they start into growth ; but if 
they are extracted with a knife, and the wood laid bare, bleeding ensues, 
greatly w’eakening tbe Vines. 
Six feet width of border will bo sufficient to commence with. 
Sprinkle the Vines and house twice a day, but avoid sharp forcing. 
Temperatures of 55° at night, 65° by day artificially, and 70° to 75° 
with sun, are suitable. If the w'eather be bright and the panes of glass 
large, shade from 10 A.M. to 2 P.M., when the house should be closed, 
damping all available surfaces. If the temperature rise to 85° or more 
it will be an advantage. When the Vines have started into growth give 
every encouragement, increasing the temperature to 60° to 65° at night, 
70° to 75° by day, and 80° to 85° from sun heat. 
Figs. —Earliest Irces in Pots .—The fruits of the very early small 
varieties are ripe, and the finer Brown Turkey and White Marseilles are 
nearly so, hence the supply of water at the roots must be diminished, 
discontinuing syringing, and a free circulation of warm air afforded, 
leaving the top ventilators open a little at night. Although watering is 
advised to be lessened during the ripening of the fruit, the soil must be 
kept moist, and a moderate moisture in the atmosphere secured by an 
occasional damping, but this wdll only be necessary in very bright 
weather. As soon as the first crop is gathered syringe the trees twice 
daily, renewing the top-dressing, and watering at the roots with weak 
liquid manure. If the second crop be very abundant, the fruits must 
be thinned so as not to overtax the trees for early forcing next season. 
Early-forced Planted Out Trees .—The fruit is advancing rapidly 
towards the ripening stage, and must have plentiful nutriment. If 
necessary, give the trees a thorough supply of water or liquid manure, 
and mulch with partially decayed rather lumpy manure. Do not cease 
syringing until the fruit commences ripening, avoiding then a super¬ 
abundance of moisture about the house, having a little ventilation at 
the top of the house constantly, and a free circulation until the fruit is 
all gathered. Do not gather the fruit until it is thoroughly ripe, unless 
it has to be packed. 
Succession Houses .—Attend to stopping the shoots at the fifth joint, 
and subsequently to one or two, but too many side shoots must not be 
encouraged, as the fruit and wood require light and air for its matura¬ 
tion. Train extensions in their full length, thinning or removing strong 
growths so as to admit light and air to the fruit. Attend daily to 
syringing the trees, and supply water as necessary to maintain thorough 
moisture at the roots. Renew the mulching if necessary, and keep it 
moist so as to encourage the roots and keep them at the surface. 
Cherry House .—Directly the stoning is complete the fruit com¬ 
mences colouring and takes its swelling for ripening. The temperature 
may now be raised, but it must not exceed 65° by artificial means and 
55° to 60° at night, with a little ventilation, increasing it at 70°. 
Subject to the leaving of a little air on constantly at the top of the 
house, close at 70°; but the temperature must not be allowed to exceed 
