352 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 30, 1891. 
temperatures and sudden fluctuations by carefully attending to venti¬ 
lation. A little air admitted at night will prevent the deposition of 
moisture on the foliage through the night to any serious extent, and 
enlarge the openings when the sun acts on the house, yet without 
lowering the temperature, which should advance with the increased 
power of the sun and a corresponding increase of ventilation. Avoid 
fumigating as far as possible, as it dries the atmosphere, and not un- 
frequently cripples the foliage, when the fruit from the check may be 
sseriously imperilled and fall. Early closing is to some extent an 
advantage, but it must not be continued too long. It is also advisable 
to allow a little extra latitude to the growth, but on no account permit 
foliage to be developed that must afterwards be removed in quantity. 
Keep the inside border well supplied with water, and avoid undue 
excitement at the roots by stimulating them with liquid manure. 
Judicious feeding, however, is a great aid to trees when stoning, but 
let it be of a phosphatic nature, such as dissolved bone (superphosphate), 
also potassic. A mixture of five parts superphosphate and two parts 
muriate of potash distributed at the rate of 2 ozs. per square yard, will 
assist trees carrying heavy crops in stoning, washing it in, or dissolve in 
four gallons of water, and apply that quantity per square yard. The 
surface may be mulched lightly to keep it moist and attract the roots. 
Trees Swelling their Fruit .—These swell most at two periods—viz., 
after setting until the commencement of the stoning process, and after 
stoning. The first is materially, if not entirely, influenced by the 
previous storing of matter in the trees and the available food in the 
soil; but a genial condition of the atmosphere accelerates the swelling 
of the fruits and the means employed to secure a good root aetion, 
whieh is best effected by a judicious and gradual regulation of the 
growths by the process of disbudding and in thinning the fruits. Over¬ 
crowding is a great evil, but large reductions of foliage at one time, as 
well as of fruit, are not good. There is no safety save in a steady pro¬ 
gressive growth and careful disbudding. The more vigorous the tree 
the greater is the danger of the fruit being cast in stoning, and the evil 
is afterwards increased by severe disbudding, also by a close and moist 
atmosphere. In the last swelling after stoning tie the shoots down, so 
that the fruits may be fully exposed to the light; but moderate exten¬ 
sion of growth will materially assist the fruit in swelling, care being 
taken that the principal foliage and fruit be not interfered with. Supply 
%vater thoroughly to inside borders when necessary, and liquid manure 
to weakly trees. 
Melons. —Earlg Plants .—When the fruit begins ripening lessen the 
supply of water at the roots, but not so as to distress the plants, for if the 
foliage has been kept clean and the roots are in good condition a second 
■crop may be had. Withhold atmospheric moisture, and provide a circu¬ 
lation of dry warm air, increasing the temperature to 70° to 75° artifi¬ 
cially, and 80° to 90° with sun heat. Cut the fruits before they are very 
ripe, keeping them in a fruit room for two or three days, or until they 
are in proper condition to send to table. Cracked fruits are produced 
by a close and moist atmosphere, and too much water at the roots, 
■which induces an excess of sap. If any fruits show a tendency to crack, 
cut the shoots about half way through with a sharp knife a few inches 
below the fruit, and diminish the supply of water at the roots and in 
the atmosphere, leaving a little ventilation constantly to prevent mois¬ 
ture condensing on the fruit. 
Succession Plants .—Continue fertilising the flowers when fully 
expanded, the atmosphere being kept' rather drier and warmer, and 
ventilation attended to early, with a little constantly if there is danger 
of moisture condensing on the flowers. Stop the shoots at the time 
•of fertilisation one or two joints beyond the fruit. To secure a full crop 
have a number of fruits on individual plants in the same stage of 
growth. Earth the plants with some rather strong and rich loam after 
the fruits begin swelling, ramming it firmly, and place a little fresh 
lime around the collar to prevent canker. Plants swelling their fruits 
may be syringed in hot weather about 3 p.m , damping the floor several 
times a day, and in the evening sprinkle available surfaces with weak 
liquid manure or guano water, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water. Shade only 
to prevent flagging ; ventilate freely in favourable weather, commencing 
from 75° to 80°, increasing or decreasing it during the day as may be 
necessary, maintaining a day temperature of 80° to 85°, or 90° with sun 
heat, closing between 80° and 85°, and if an advance be made after 
•closing to 90° or 95° it will materially assist the fruit in swelling, and 
lessen the necessity for fire heat at night, but it must be accompanied 
by plenty of atmospheric moisture. If thrips appear fumigate moderately 
■on two or three consecutive evenings, taking care to have the foliage 
<lry. 
Train out the growths in pits and frames, still maintain a good 
bottom heat by linings, and employ thick night coverings over the lights, 
as the nights are still cold. Sow seed for raising plants for planting in 
pits and frames as they are cleared of bedding plants, potting the young 
plants as required. Add more soil to the hillocks as the roots push 
through the sides of the mounds, which must be repeated at intervals 
until the allotted space is filled. Do not allow young plants to become 
root-bound before placing them out, or they will be stunted and rarely 
make a free growth afterwards. Any that are likely to get into this 
state should be shifted into pots a couple of sizes larger than those they 
ra^'e at present in, in order to keep them in steady progressive growth 
until the beds or hillocks in the pits or frames are prepared for them. 
CnctJMBEES.—Those growing in houses and hot-water heated pits 
must be syringed twice a day, so that every portion may receive a 
thorough washing, which will be the means of keeping them free from 
the attacks of red spider and other troublesome insects. Plants growing 
in dung frames will not need syringing so often ; a sprinkling at the 
closing time will be suffleient on bright days, and none at all when the 
weather is dull. Give liberal and frequent (but not unnecessary) water¬ 
ings of liquid manure at a temperature of 75° to 80° to plants in full 
bearing. Avoid overcropping and overcrowding the growths. Straight 
fruits being in request, and they are certainly finer-looking, they should 
be placed in glasses as soon as they have set, or three pieces of wood 
nailed together make a good substitute. Attend to the necessary 
stopping, thinning and tying, keeping a succession of fruitful growth. 
No more fire heat should be used than is absolutely necessary, and with 
the reduction of fire heat moisture will need to be reduced correspond¬ 
ingly. Make another planting if necessary, so as to maintain a supply 
of fruit exceeding rather than unequal to the demand. 
Strawberries in Pots .—La Grosse Sucree is grown for early forcing, 
as it is an excellent setter, always swells to a good size, and is 
brilliant in colour. This is the time when difficulty in most places 
arises, especially where forcing has to be carried on in vineries and 
Peach houses, for however good the management red spider appears, and 
this pest is soon transmitted to the Vines and Peach trees, hence a cause 
of much anxiety to the grower. Arrangements will need to be made so 
that there may be a succession of plants, and crops that are ripening 
too fast may be retarded in various ways for several days in case an 
extra supply is required for particular occasions. The expedients are 
turning the fruits from the sun, shifting the plants to a north house, or 
removing the plants from under glass into an airy fruit-room or a cool 
shed after the fruits are fully ripe. Much can be done at this season in 
cold frames with j udicious management. All plants that can be accom¬ 
modated in cold or low-heated pits should have their flower spikes 
thinned out to the requisite number, and be plunged in coal ashes well 
up to the glass, leaving room for a circulation of air to play between 
the glass and the leaves of the plants, and the forward plants from 
these structures can always be picked to take the place of those that are 
ripe and ripening. Supply liquid manure at every alternate watering 
to plants swelling ofi their crops, but care must be taken not to give it 
too strong and never cold, 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Broccoli. —Plants of Veitch’s Autumn Protecting, a variety that 
ought to be very extensively grown, raised under glass in some way, 
must be well hardened off and pricked out on a sheltered border 
before they become “ drawn.” The soil for them should be light and free- 
working, or otherwise the plants will move badly orrt of it. Dispose 
them not less than 4 inches apart each way, fix them well at the roots, and 
give water if the soil is at all dry. A few branches of evergreens would 
afford temporary protection from either strong sunshine, cold winds, or 
frosts, but" these should be removed in a few days. Now is the best 
time to sow seed of main crop and late varieties. Raised much earlier 
the plants are often ready long before the ground is fit for their recep¬ 
tion, and they become much drawn and really unfit to put out if long 
left in the seed beds. For Broccoli to be hardy the start must be made 
with sturdy plants. Select an open position, and poor ground rather 
than a warm or much sheltered border, and sow the seed thinly either 
in drills or broadcast. If the latter plan is adopted, the seed ought to 
be covered with sifted soil, this being better than attempting to rake it 
in. If this advice comes too late, much seed having been sown some 
time previously, the least that can be done is to sow more seed of Late 
Queen, Latest of All, Model, Cattell’s Eclipse, or other selected late 
varieties, a later supply of hearts being thereby secured in most 
seasons. 
Cauliflowers. —Any being forwarded in pits or deep frames 
should have abundance of air, and be kept well supplied with moisture 
at the roots. Directly hearts commence forming gize a good supply of 
liquid manure, more of this being given in the course of a week. This 
will have the effect of causing comparatively strong plants to develop 
very serviceable hearts. What plants there are left after handlights and 
rough frames have been filled, this applying to any raised either last 
autumn or early this year, ought to be put out on good open ground, 
room being also found for a few at the foot of sunny walls. They like 
fresh ground with plenty of solid manure mixed with it. Eighteen 
inches apart each way is ample room for the small early or forcing 
varieties, including Snowball, but the rows of Early London, Erfurt 
Mammoth, Magnum Bonum, Pearl, and Walcheren may well be 2 feet 
apart, and the plants 18 inches asunder. Autumn Giant and Eclipse 
should have rather more space. Successional plants raised under glass 
to be pricked out as advised in the case of early Broccoli, and more seed 
of Autumn Giant should be sown in the open, the plants from this 
sowing giving a useful supply of late hearts. A good stock of this 
popular variety being raised under glass, there is little need to sow any 
more seed of the quicker growing but less reliable sorts. 
Borecole, Chou de Burghley, and Savoys.— If the seed of a 
good stock of Curled or Scotch Kale, not forgetting the valuable Read’s 
Hearting, and also Cottager’s and Asparagus Kales is sown as advised 
in the case of main and late crop Broccoli, capital sturdy plants 
will be ready for putting out in succession to early Potatoes and 
other quick maturing crops. Chou de Burghley is of little value when 
raised and planted early on good ground, the plants growing far too 
rankly, also hearting in before they are wanted. The seed being sown 
in the open with the late Broccoli, and the plants duly put out 
on good ground, a valuable supply of good hearts ought to be available 
at midwinter and later. Nor is it as a rule wise to raise and plant 
Savoys very early, these being wanted most during the winter. Tom. 
