Way 14, 1891. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
881 
leaves were available, three, four, and even as many as six pecks a 
week beinor picked. The seed was sown about the middle of 
August. If Spinach fails thii more often than not ii due to an 
insufficient preparation of the soil. 
Advantage should be taken of the clear state of the ground to 
prepare Celery trenches early, so that good time is allowed for the 
manure and soil to become lit for the reception of the roots—a 
very important poin*^, seeing that the plants may spoil by being 
kept a few days too long where pricked out, owing to there being 
no opportunity to prepare the trenches just at that time. Then, 
again, the spaces between the trenches are admirable positions for 
Lettuces and Kidney Beans, these crops often thriving surprisingly 
well on these in quite the hottest and driest seasons. It is only by 
preparing the trenches early on heavy ground, at any rate, that the 
spaces between them can be effectively cropped, newly dug ground 
being quite unworkable for a time, or till it has been baked by sun¬ 
shine, and then moistened by rains.—W. Iggulden. 
SETTING MELONS. 
Of late much interesting reading has appeared in the Journal 
of Horticulture on the several modes of setting Peaches, and as 
there usually is, to a very great extent, the same uncertainty 
attending the proper fertilisation of Melon flowers, some of the 
able critics on the Peach and Nectarine might give the general 
readers information to enable them to avoid the frequent partial 
failures among small Melon growers. Large growers, no matter in 
what sphere their energies are directed, need no advice ; but 
the younger and inexperienced men do that fill places where 
most things are required of them, while the conveniences provided 
are very meagre and complicated. In the large establishments 
these crops of necessity have houses expressly set apart for their 
growth, where their attendance is, in a sense, more simple ; but 
plenty of cases can be cited where the one house (perhaps a small 
one) has to do duty as a stove for various kinds of plants, the 
roof being shared proportionately both by the usual climbing or 
trailing plants found in such structures, as well as Cucumbers, 
Melons, and Tomatoes. No one can assert that a man working 
cinder these latter conditions has the same chances as another 
who can devote a house strictly to the one crop. It is a matter of 
decided uncertainty, and the single-handed man usually considers 
Iiimself lucky to secure a good and perfect set of Melons at any 
time. In Peaches all cultivators agree that a uniformly moist 
border should be maintained at all times, though they individua’ly 
differ in the treatment of the flowers at the setting period, but 
with Melons some growers succeed in setting them well by stinting 
the water supply at the roots while they are flowering, while 
another would ignore such a practice altogether. I have never yet 
heard of or seen a satisfactory explanation why such uncertainties 
should be common to Melons in their setting, but it does fre¬ 
quently occur that although a dozen blooms on a plant may be 
fertilised at about one time, if a single fruit should take the lead 
and be allowed to remain the others will fail to make any progress, 
and eventually have to be cut off. Except in extreme cases these 
precocious fruits are cut away and a later set awaited ; but light 
■crops are often chosen in preference to waiting for successional 
blooms. 
There is no doubt but that soil has a very great influence in the 
•culture of Melons, and a great diversity of opinion exists as to the 
.greater suitability of light soil over heavy and vice versa in charac¬ 
ter ; but in this as in the structures in which they are grown, the 
actual grower often has but little or no control, for in many 
establishments the soil has to be purchased, and it is not always 
convenient to get that suited to any one particular crop when small 
quantities only are procured. 
There are but few gardens where the Melon adapts itself to the 
same perpetual or rather successional style of fruiting as is known 
in Cucumbers ; nor, so far as concerns the ordinary cultivator, is it 
desirable, because it requires extended root as well as roof space to 
command such a condition of things. Small growers would, as a 
rule, be satisfied with one full crop from a batch of plants, these to 
be rooted out directly the fruits are cut, successional crops being 
forwarded in other places. I may be wrong, but I am an advocate 
for lime given in small quantities often, especially preceding the 
flowering period, believing it predisposes the plants to a fuller 
measure of fertility ; but in this, as on the question generally, the 
experience of some of the many contributors to the Journal would 
be invaluable. Liquid or any manures applied at the time of setting 
is treacherous, as I have more than once had ample demonstration ; 
but I have, like many others, never been able to grasp the reason 
why half-dozen blooms on a plant, apparently of uniform strength 
when each has the same individual attention in the matter of 
pollen application, should result in one or perhaps two fruits 
swelling rapidly, the others remaining stationary, although the 
plant in vigour should be capable of perfecting the whole number. 
CULTURE OF GARDENIAS. 
These handsome stove plants are met with in every establish¬ 
ment where room can be found for their accommodat'o'>. The 
flowers are so beautiful and the fragrance so delicious that they are 
always in great demand for floral decorations. Gardenias are not 
fastidious as to soil, the chief elements in their successful cultiva¬ 
tion being heat, moisture, and freedom from insect pests, which 
soon spoil the beauty of the plants and mar the purity of the 
blooms. 
Propagation. 
Have the pots required for the stock to be propagated duly 
prepared. Carefully drain them, fill with a compost of peat 
and leaf mould, and finish with a good surfacing of silver sand. 
Select good stout cuttings of the young wood, preferably those 
with a heel, and insert them either singly in small pots or as many 
as can be conveniently inserted in the pots at command. Water 
through a fine rose, and place the cuttings in a propagating box 
with a steady bottom heat, when roots will soon be emitted. 
After Cultivation. 
They should next be placed singly into 4-inch pots, using a 
compost of three parts peat, with broken charcoal and silver sand, 
and keep them in a brisk heat. Water carefully until the roots take 
to the new soil, when the syringe may be used on every favourable 
occasion. When about 6 or 8 inches high pinch out the points to 
make them break back. As the plants become fairly established 
it must be determined whether they are to be planted out or grown 
in pots. Unquestionably where room can be found the planting 
out system yields the best results. The leaves not only become 
larger, but the flowers are produced in greater abundance, and are 
finer in quality. 
If they are to be planted out drain the bed sufficiently with 
broken brickbats. Mix a compost of equal parts of peat and good 
fibrous loam, incorporating some charcoal and rough silver sand. 
Place out the plants at proportionate distances, apply water sparingly 
for a time, but syringe the foliage twice a day when growth is well 
started, and pinch again. The syringe is of the greatest import¬ 
ance in checking the ravagts of insects. A temperature of from 
65° to 85° will suit them admirably whilst growing. As the shoots 
progress and show signs of flowering use liquid manure at every 
alternate watering, or it may be given before this stage provided it 
be used sparingly, when vigorous shoots and healthy flower buds 
will be the result. During the autumn months less water wi'l be 
required at the roots, but they should never be allowed for a 
moment to become too dry. When flowering is over the plants 
should be cut well back, cutting out all weakly growths entirely and 
shortening the more vigorous. Carefully examine the plants, and 
give a washing avith some insecticide. This being completed, 
remove all the loose soil from the surface of the border, and 
substitute the compost before named. Keep the plants well 
syringed, and they will soon break into growth. The same routine 
as before may be gone through, but with plants at this age no 
pinching will be required, as shoots in abundance may be selected. 
If pinching is resorted to it will serve to retard the plan's to some 
extent. 
If they are to be grown in pots the advantages ^re, hr it, that 
if the plants are infested with insects they are easily removed to 
some other part, to be carefully washed or dipped ; and secondly, 
that where numbers are grown they may, when growth is 
completed and flower buds set, be removed to a slightly lower 
temperature, and brought into heat as occasion requiivs. Shift 
the p’ants from 4-inch to 8-inch pots, and pinch as for those in the 
border, using the same compost. When growing freely keep the 
syringe clean, and follow the treatment before mentioned. 
Flowering being over they may be cut back, and when growth 
has commenced turn them out of their pots and shake away a 
portion of the soil from the roots, and pot into sizes according 
to the health of the plants. A stock of young plants should 
always be in readiness to take the place of any no longer required. 
Useful plants may be growm in a season, but the second season 
generally gives the best results if they are only kept clean. 
Insects. 
Mealy bug and scale are the most destructive enemies of the 
Gardenia. These may be eradicated by the use of one of the many 
insecticides advertised. If thrips or green fly attack tbena they 
should be fumigated, but if well syringed the two latter will not 
prove so troublesome. ^ ■ ■. ^ 
Gardenia intermedia is one of the most useful of this c ass or 
