May 21, 1891. J 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
399 
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MIGNONETTE as STANDARDS 
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T O some persons it may appear a waste of time to cultivate 
Mignonette as I am about to describe, but in no other way can 
so many fine spikes be produced on a plant. From two hundred to 
three hundred highly fragrant spikes of flowers can be had on a 
•specimen, many of them measuring G inches long and more. In 
addition to the advantage of being able to cut abundance of 
Mignonette during the months of February, March, and April for 
■filling vases for room decoration, what could be more pleasing than 
half a dozen such plants in the conservatory at that time of the 
year ? In private gardens I do not think Mignonette for winter 
and early spring flowering is as much cultivated as its merits 
deserve. The perfume seems more powerful than from the plants 
growing out of doors during the summer months, and the cultural 
details are simple. 
We only grow one variety—Miles’ Spiral. The growth is 
strong, easily trained, and the flower spikes stand erect without 
support. I have had many 12 and 15 inches long after removing 
ihe first few seed pods at the base of the flower spike. This 
variety also carries good foliage, which is essential to the good 
appearance of the plants. I used to grow Parson’s Tree Migno¬ 
nette, which is exceedingly free, but the spikes are too small. 
Machet is not suited for this form of training owing to its dwarf 
and stiff habit. G-olden Queen grows very well as a standard, but 
the colour is somewhat dingy and not appreciated. G-arraway’s 
White is suitable for training in standard form, but after trying all 
the sorts named I find Miles’ strain the best. 
We endeavour to sow the seed as near as possible to the 24th 
of May, not that a day or two makes much difference, but having 
had invariable success we keep as close to that date as we can. 
Some persons assert that Mignonette will not transplant readily, 
but that is a mistake ; some of the best plants we ever had were 
dug from the open ground and potted when an inch high, but the 
following is the usual method adopted. A sufficient number of 
clean 2j-inch pots aVe prepared by placing a few crocks at the 
bottom, then three parts filling with loam, leaf mould, and sand in 
equal portions. In each pot four good seeds are sown, covering 
them with fine soil, which if moist when used does away with the 
necessity of applying water for a few days afterwards. The pots 
are stood on damp ashes in a cold frame on the north side of a 
wall. The soil in the pots is not allowed to become dry, but is 
moistened occasionally and the inside of the frame also. Directly 
the seedlings appear soot is scattered among the pots to preserve the 
succulent leaves from slugs. When the plants are large enough to 
handle all are removed but one in each pot, but should there be 
vacancies in some pots the strongest plants in others are left for a 
few days longer and potted separately, to make up the requisite 
number. The space left at the top of the pot at sowing is then 
filled with similar soil, which maintains the plants in an upright 
form, tender seedlings being liable to grow crooked. 
To obtain free and healthy gi’owth the plants must not be kept 
in the small pots too long, or the roots will become matted together, 
which checks the growth—a circumstance to be rigidly avoided. 
The plants are shifted into 4-inch pots, using the same kind of soil 
as before, but with less sand in it. A small stake is placed to each 
plant, to wh’.ch the growth is secured as it progresses. This is 
important, as crooked stems have not a good appearance. The 
No. 569.—VoL. XXII., Third Series. 
plants are returned to the frame, and kept there until the end of 
August, when they are assigned a more sunny position. The frame 
is kept rather close for a few days after repotting till the roots 
take hold of the new soil, then air is admitted freely day and 
night. The foliage is thoroughly syringed in the evenings of 
hot days, also the inside of the frame, to create a moist genial 
atmosphere, which promotes free growth. If the plants are allowed 
to become dry at the roots two or three times red spider attacks 
the under side of the foliage, and if not quickly washed off with 
clean water ruins the plants. A steady uninterrupted growth is 
absolutely essential to success. Sometimes before the desired 
length of stem—18 inches or 2 feet—is obtained flower buds form 
at the point, and side growths push from the joints below. The 
terminal bud and all side shoots but the strongest near the point 
are promptly removed and the shoots trained upwards until the 
necessary height is attained. The growth is then topped for the 
production of side branches, which are required to form the basis 
of the future head. 
The plants are shifted from the 4-inch into 7-inch pots, and 
subsequently into others 10 inches across, in which they flower. 
Some few plants may have pots 2 inches smaller, but those in the 
largest size give the best results. The compost for the final potting 
consists of three, parts fibry loam, one of leaf mould not too much 
decayed, and little of the materials from a spent Mushroom 
bed, with a free addition of coarse silver sand if the loam is 
inclined to be heavy. The pots are well drained, as the roots of 
Mignonette are impatient of stagnant moisture during the winter, 
when they often do not require watering for four or six days at a 
time. A space of at least 1^ inch is left at the top of the pot 
to allow for future top-dressings. Turfy loam, with the fine soil 
taken out, and Thomson’s Yine manure in equal parts spread over the 
surface of the soil a quarter inch thick forms an excellent rooting 
medium, giving a deep green to the foliage and massiveness to 
the flower spikes. The top-dressings are repeated ah intervals of 
a month, commencing about Christmas. 
It is most important that sound judgment be exercised in 
watering the plants during the whole period of growth. If too 
much water is given even in summer the leaves assume a sickly 
hue, while if the supply is insufficient the stems harden, and red 
spider takes possession of the leaves. But it is during the dull 
days of winter that extra care is needed, especially after the plants 
are placed in their largest pots, and time should be allowed for 
the roots to take hold of the new soil before much water is given. 
When these pots are full of roots or nearly so weak clear liquid 
made from cow or sheep manure with a small quantity of soot 
added is of immense advantage if applied every third time water 
is needed. 
The best position for the plants from the middle of September 
is close to the glass in a greenhouse where the temperature does 
not fall below 45°, nor rise more than 10° above that. Abundance 
of air is afforded on all favourable occasions. Syringing is dis¬ 
continued after the plants are housed, except in unusually hot 
weather, when an occasional sprinkling is beneficial, keeping the 
plants cool and evading attacks of red spider. 
For forming the heads we employ galvanised wire trellises, 
■which are easily made, umbrella shape, 15 to 18 inches in diameter 
and about 1 foot high. A stout stake is thrust into the soil near 
the middle of the pot, to which the trellis is made secure on the 
top. Over this the shoots are trained as they grow, pinching out 
the points wherever a bloom appears and also to increase the 
number of shoots. When the trellis is covered is the time to think 
about a supply of flowers. At the last time of t^apping all the 
growths are done at once, so as to have the spikes in the same 
stage of development. The plants ■when in bloom present a surface 
of evenly disposed foliage and uniform spikes ; they are suitable for 
either conservatory or room decoration, and last a long time in 
perfection if supplied freely with water and receive a fair amount 
No. 2225.—Yol. LXXXIY., Old Series. 
