416 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 1, 1391, 
Watering twice a week in the case of those with the roits restrictel to 
border? of limited extent, and once a week for those that have a geo 1 run 
of border, is not too much from the time the Grapes swell after thinning 
until the berries are changing colour. There is, however, a great differ¬ 
ence in the retentive power of soils. Some loams are naturally very 
loose, sandy, or gravelly, and they have the usual opening materials 
added, as lime rubbish and charcoal, which makes them still more sieve¬ 
like ; the consequence is the greater need of the watering pot. Soil will 
require water less frequently, but in no case must there be any lack of 
moisture at the roots throughout the swelling period. 
^ Late Vines .—These will be in flower in most places. Maintain a 
minimum temperature of 70“. Shaking the rods twice a day will be suffi¬ 
cient in most cases to distribute the pollen effectively, but in the case of 
shy setters do not fail to resort to artificial fertilisation, going over the 
bunches carefully with a camel’s hair brush. All old large berried 
varieties such as Gros Colman and Gros Guillaume, which are good 
setters, should be thinned whilst they are in flower, and with those that 
are liable to have very closely set berries it is a good plan to thin them 
before the flowers expand, as a practical eye can tell which flower buds 
by their vigour that are likely to set, and the removal of the weaker 
strengthens them wonderfully. Whilst the Vines are in flower do not 
pinch or stop the laterals, but when the blooms are fairly set remove 
the laterals at once, so as to prevent overcrowding. 
Planting Growing Vines .—Those raised from eyes in February or 
March and grown in pots or turves may from now to the early part of 
June be planted out, giving them a good soaking with tepid water, 
mulching the surface with a couple of inches of short rather lumpy 
manure, and shade from bright sun until they become established. 
Melons. —In Houses .—When the fruit is cut from the earliest plants 
the old stem may be cut to a strong shoot near its base, removing as 
much of the old soil as can be picked out from amongst the roots, adding 
fresh in its place, strong, rather lumpy and well pressed down, giving a 
good watering. If a moist atmosphere is maintained and the plants are 
syringed in the morning and about 4 p.m., they will soon start freely, 
showing fruit in much less time than by planting afresh. If they 
have healthy growths they need not be cut down so closely, but laterals 
taken at suitable distances and the old shortened or cut away, the fresh 
laterals will show fruit at a few joints of growth. If, however, the 
plants are affected with canker or from carrying too heavy a first crop, 
a deficiency of water or attacks of insects are much enfeebled, it is 
better to remove them, thoroughly cleansing the house, placing strong 
plants in ridges or hillocks as advised in former calendars. 
Melons always have flavour in degree of the solar heat, and the 
weather lately has been all that the Melon grower covets. The days 
have been bright though the air has been cold, necessitating the employ¬ 
ment of fires, especially at night, as it is a great mistake to allow too 
great a difference between the day and night temperatures. Maintain 
70° as the minimum, though 65° or even 60° will do no harm when the 
nights are unusually cold and the days bright, 70° to 75° by day being 
secured artificially, admitting a little air at and above the latter, allow¬ 
ing an advance to 85° or 90°, closing at 80°'to 85°, yet so early as to 
raise the temperature to 90° or 95°. Keep plenty of atmospheric 
moisture in houses containing young growing plants or those swelling 
their fruit, gently damping the foliage, walls, floors, and closing about 
3.30 P.M., or as early as safe. Feed plants liberally that have their fruits 
swelling, not allowing them to suffer through insufficient supplies of 
water, and afford weak liquid manure. Fertilise all pistillate flowers 
daily, ensuring a somewhat dry condition of the atmosphere, not using 
the knife during that period, but pinch out the points of the shoots at 
one or two joints beyond the fruit. Earth plants that have set their 
traits, and examine the plants frequently for the removal of superfluous 
growths, not allowing them to interfere with the principal foliage. 
Shade as little as possible, and only to prevent flagging. 
Plants hi Pits and Frames .—When fruits are ripening they should 
be fully exposed to the sun by raising them on inverted flower pots with 
a piece of slate intervening, as the moisture from the bed is apt to 
accuinulate in the pot, and rising through the hole cause the fruit laid 
upon it to decay at that part. Admit air freely, and water only to 
prevent the foliage flagging. If a second crop is desired encourage 
about four shoots from each plant from the base of the stems now 
bearing, and when the fruit is cut the old growths may be removed and 
young shoots substituted. These will show fruit on the first laterals, 
every alternate lateral being rubbed off to prevent crowding. If a top¬ 
dressing of fresh compost be given, supplemented with a good supply of 
moderately weak liquid manure at 90°, the plants will be assisted to 
make a vigorous second growth. A useful crop of Melons may be ob¬ 
tained by making up beds now of any spent material, which with 
mixing and turning will generate a gentle warmth, placing over it 
frarnes that may have been used for Potatoes and bedding plants, 
placing in each light about a couple of barrowfuls of any strong loam 
mixed with some old mortar rubbish or road scrapings, if deficient of 
grit, and pressing it down firmly. Into this, when warmed through, 
turn out a strong healthy plant, pressing the soil firmly about the roots, 
and giving a good watering. If pits are employed the surface of the 
soil must be brought up to a foot from the glass and the materials 
firmed well, so as to prevent much settling. If the weather be bright 
shade for a few days after planting. Seed may yet be sown to raise 
plants for frames at present occupied by tender bedding plants. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Campanulas .—Canterbury Bells, notably the calycanthema forms, 
are very effective border plants, and in masses are most showy, being 
at their best in .lune, but will flower fur some time longer. They 
are perfectlv haioly, very few plants being lost during the la'‘e winter, 
and if seedlings are raised during May or the early part of June these 
can be grown to their full size by next winter. Sown in pans, not too 
thickly, lightly covered with fine soil, placed in a handlight or close 
frame, the seed germinates quickly, and if the plants are first pricked 
out in other pans or boxes they ought to be ready for the open borders 
in August. They require good room, and ought to be eventually dis¬ 
posed not less than 15 inches apart each way. Room being somewhat 
scarce, put them out 8 inches apart each way, and in the autumn 
either pot up or transplant elsewhere every other row, and half the 
plants in the reserved rows. They move readily, and flower grandly 
in pots during May. 
Wallflowers .—It is of the greatest importance that these be raised 
early, plants obtained by sowing after the stress of other garden work 
is over usually being too small and weakly to flower well. Sow the 
seed at once, preferably in open borders well prepared and got into a 
free working condition. Open shallow drills 10 inches apart, water 
these if at all dry through a rose pot, sow the seed somewhat thinly, 
and cover with a little fine or sifted soil. Thin out the seedlings early 
where at all crowded, leaving them say about- 3 inches apart, and later 
on transplant every other one to other borders or bed?. In sowing 
keep each colour separate, masses of one colour being most effective, and 
always aim to raise abundance. The double German Wallflowers to be 
similarly treated. Should there be no plots of ground convenient, 
raise the requisite number of plants in boxes, and early prick out. 
Brampton Stochs. —These, though less hardy than Wallflowers, are yet 
frequently very serviceable, strong p’ants flowering freely at this time 
of the year. They are not well adapted for the flower beds, not trans¬ 
planting well, but they are quite at home in mixed borders and in 
separate beds, always providing they can be well established in their 
flowering quarters during the summer. The seed may be sown now or 
during the early part of June, and the plants treated much as advised in 
the case of Wallflowers. 
Antirrhinums and Pentstemons .—Old plants of these are scarce, the 
majority came to grief during the past winter. Seeing that they 
are among the most showy border plants, and not to be despised for the 
flower beds, more than ordinary pains ought to be taken with young 
plants that may have been raised from either cuttings or seeds. Unless 
they are strong at the present time and be got out early on fairly rich 
good ground, tbe flowering period will be late and the spikes weakly. 
They transplant well from boxes or beds of soil in which they may have 
been temporarily pricked out, and being hardier than the ordinary 
bedding plants should be placed out early. They are really very effective 
bedding plants, a dry season appearing to suit the Antirrhinums well. 
Herbaceous Phloxes .—To have these at their best they must be well 
fed at their roots, and young plants in fresh soil will in any case surpass 
the older clumps. The latter, however, may be greatly improved by 
having the roots bared and a mulching of manure and a soaking of 
water given prior to returning the soil over the manure. They are 
always dry at the roots, no amount of rainfall soaking the ground 
immediately about them after the growing season commences. It is also 
advisable to freely thin out the young shoots, any kept or raised in 
frames to be at once planted out on good ground. Strong young tops 
taken off, placed singly in small pots, and stood in a close frame with 
little or no bottom heat, root quickly, and these, if duly planted out, or 
given a shift into larger pots, will develop sturdy spikes of flower. 
Other Strong Herbaceous Plants .—Most of these have come well 
through the winter, and in many cases are pushing up far more flowering 
stems than it is advisable to preserve. If crowded, the display is short¬ 
lived ; but if thinned the stems branch more freely and flower more 
continuously, the quality of the flowers also being superior. All pay 
well for receiving the same liberal treatment recommended for 
Phloxes, and the least that can be done is to well thin out the Japanese 
Anemones, Delphiniums, Helianthuses, Heleniums, Asters, Hemerocallis, 
and Pyrethrum uliginosum, some of the last named being also cut half 
down next month in order to have them dwarfer. A mulching of short 
manure, leaf soil, or spent tan would also greatly benefit the foregoing 
and all other moisture-loving border plants. 
Bulbous Plants. — These, with few or no exception?, are best 
left undisturbed, not being lifed till it is necessary for them to be 
divided and replanted. This applies with the greatest force to the 
Daffodils and Narcissi—choice or otherwise, while the various other 
spring-flowering bulbs also improve if only disturbed every three or four 
years. Where they must be lifted and stored away in boxes defer the 
operation if possible till after the foliage has ripened and died off, but 
if this period has to be anticipated, as in the case of bulbs in the flower 
beds, take them up carefully and replant, or lay them in where they will 
not dry up too rapidly. Bulbs of Hyacinths, Tulips, and Narcissi are 
not of much or any service for the flower beds in the following season, 
but they would serve to brighten the mixed borders, and in time give a 
good supply of flowmrs. Much the same may be said of the bulbs 
flowered in pots. They are of no further service for pot culture, but 
they might well be bedded in closely together in any outside border and 
be permanently planted in the mixed borders and the fruit borders next 
autumn. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Bichardias .—Plants that have flowered may be placed outside in a 
sheltered position for a few days and then planted out. Provide a well- 
manured trench for them, so that the base of the stem will be a little 
below the surface. Break up old balls at planting time, and divide so 
that they will not need disturbing when the lifting season arrives 
