418 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 21, 1891. 
tLey have the power of rejecting the carbonic acid gas it cannot be 
otherwise but fatal to them. The truth is bees know a good deal 
better how to conduct themselves than do many of their owners. 
The bees’ natural mode of clustering is to preserve a space all 
round and above themselves, and in this way can, if the doorway is 
narrow, maintain a uniform temperature without much excitement 
even at a zero temperature. If the hive is properly constructed 
and protected there will be no damp to unnecessarily extract the 
beat from the heated curtain of air or the bees. The fresh air will 
enter no quicker than the wants of the bees demand, and the 
vitiated air will return at the ends of the seams of the bees with¬ 
out coming into contact with them, and the bees will remain 
healthy, a credit and a profit to their owners. I I’epeat that it is 
to be regretted that bee-keepers have been so much misled by 
interested persons.— A L.vxarksiiiee Bee-keeper. 
THE DEATH’S HEAD MOTH AND BEES. 
I HAVE read your inquiry about the death’s head moth 
(Acherontia atropos) and the honey bee in your issue of May 7th 
inst. I enclose you a specimen which I took this spring from the 
back of a frame hive. It is much damaged now, but you can see 
that the bees had propolised it to the side, and it was covered 
with propolis and wax. It was not until I had scraped away 
a good deal that I could see what it was. 
I cannot think the bees are at all afraid of it, and in a populous 
hive it would have no chance of entry. In this case it had entered 
probably the night after a swarm, when there were not many bees 
in the hive, or on a somewhat chilly evening when the cluster had 
contracted, but it had not gone far, for no damage was done to the 
combs ; it was probably stung to death a few minutes after its 
entry. It might enter a weak stock, but I do not think that even 
then it would live long. I am of opinion that it hovers about bee 
hives (as it undoubtedly does) only attracted by the smell of the 
honey. If I can further assist in any way I shall be pleased to do 
so.—J. 0. Wood, Grinshill. _ 
Not knowing from experience much of the habits of the 
death’s head moth, I can throw little light on it, but I give what 
practical information I possess. In answer to the first question 
at page 365, I have frequently found the death’s head moth killed 
within the hive, or thrown out dead from it. The second question. 
Is it attracted there by the smell of the honey ? ” I cannot 
answer ; it may be that, or simply as a place of refuge. As to the 
third question, “ How are the bees affected by the moth ; are they 
alarmed by its lustrous eyes, or will they attack it as a foe?” 
The answer to the first question is a partial answer to this one. 
But are bees ever alarmed ? Before we can explain the history of 
the one we must understand the natural history of the other. I do 
not believe bees possess any fear, but have strong instincts in 
guarding against the raids of their natural enemies, and neither 
lustrous eyes ” nor cry of any kind affect bees. The sting of the 
bees is fatal to many insects, and their hum strikes terror in animals 
like the cow.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the 
post, and we do not undertake to return rejected communica¬ 
tions. 
Answering- Questions (G. i?.).—You are frank certainly, but do 
not you think it is a little cool to ask us to answer six questions because 
you cannot get what you want elsewhere, and send 3^d. for an odd copy 
containing our reply? It wo’uld cost at least ten times the amount 
setting up satisfactory answers to the questions, and the subjects are of 
limited interest. We answer with pleasure questions from regular sub¬ 
scribers, and begrudge neither time nor space in doing so, and it is for 
them, and not casuals, that this column is provided, though some of the 
latter steal a march on us occasionally. This is what you get for your 
stamps, and is as much as we can afford under the circumstances. 
Weevils on Perns QS. A. G.)- —Your Ferns are attacked by the 
destructive weevil Otiorhynchus su'eatus. They deposit eggs in the soil, 
and the maggots resulting eat the roots. 
Pigs Casting Their Pruits (./. S. D.). —You will find this subject 
fully treated in an article on page 400. 
Xiate Inquiries (A. L. and Others'). —Several letters have reached 
us too late to be answered this week, and the subjects will be dealt with 
in our next issue. 
Vegetables (A. IF.).—Laxton’s Omega is a good dwarf Pea for late 
use ; All the Year Bound is a good Cabbage Lettuce ; and Ne Plus 
Ultra a good Dwarf Kidney Bean for present sowing. 
I^lldew on Peaches (Z>. IF,).—We have not had occasion to try 
sulphate of copper. You will find a method of preparing a mixture of 
sulphur and lime on page 377, our issue of the 7th of the present month, 
which has proved effectual. 
Growing Peaches (^S. J. A.).—You ask, “ If we agree with Mr. 
Rivers in considering Peaches grown under glass are more profitable as 
bushes and low standards than trained to trellises.” Our reply is in 
the affirmative when grown in such structures as are provided at Saw- 
bridgeworth, and managed by persons equal to Mr. Rivers in skill in 
that method of cultivation, not otherwise. Liquid manure of the 
strength named last week may be given both to trees in pots and against 
walls that need additional support. The manures named will answer 
your purpose, though they require time to dissolve, and may be used at 
the strength indicated. We presume they are uniform in quality. 
Cottage Gardening (.7. D.). —Your object is a laudable one. The 
sc’nedule you have sent has not reached us. In all probability Mr. 
Wright’s lecture on Garden Allotments would be of assistance to your 
friends, as it refers to gardening conducted on “ scientific principles.” A 
copy can be had from this office, post free for 3|d., a reduction being 
made when several are purchased for distribution. Offering prizes for 
garden produce, and especially for well-managed allotments, has a stimu¬ 
lating effect, and the reading of short plain and practical papers at your 
meetings by competent men and encouraging discussion thereupon would 
be of considerable service. If any of your cottagers are competent to 
write short essays by all means encourage them to do so. On this subject, 
however, we do not quite comprehend your proposition. Your last sug¬ 
gestion shall have our consideration. 
Propagating Boronias ( C. It.). — When the young shoots are 
about half ripened is the proper time to make and insert cuttings. The 
pots for them should be well drained and firmly filled with a fine peaty 
soil, heavily surfaced with sharp sand. Trim the cuttings with a sharp 
knife, and dibble in 2 inches apart and firmly, a gentle watering being 
given at once. Set in an intermediate temperature or warm greenhouse, 
and closely cover with a bellglass. Shade from bright sunshine, and 
wipe the bellglass dry every morning. They will root and commence 
growing in a few weeks, when they should ' be topped, and when 
breaking afresh potted in thumb pots, using a compost consisting of 
two parts of fibrous peat to one of light loam, charcoal and silver sand 
being freely added. Apply water carefully, pinch back repeatedly, and 
bushy little plants will result. 
Thrysacanthus rutilans (J5. C. J.). —Young shoots, not too 
soft, inserted singly in very small pots in a mixture of sand and peat, 
the former predominating, and surfaced with pure sand, emit, roots 
freely if the pots are plunged in bottom heat of 85° in a warm pro¬ 
pagating case or under a handlight in a heated frame or pit; or several 
cuttings may be placed in a larger pot and covered with a bellglass, but 
we prefer the former method, as the roots are not injured by subsequently 
repotting. The soil must be thoroughly watered before the cuttings are 
inserted, and again immediately afterwards to settle the sand round 
them. The requisite amount of shade and moisture must be afforded to 
prevent the leaves flagging, and eventually light and air must be 
gradually admitted/to insure healthy sturdy growth. Gentle bottom 
heat is of great assistance to the plants after they have been repotted, 
with slight shade from the sun during the forenoons of hot days, a warm 
moist genial atmosphere being maintained, wdth careful ventilation, 
sharp currents of air being injurious. 
Treatment of Gardenias (717. B ).—As your plants discontinue 
flowering they should be cut closely back and started again into growth 
in brisk heat. A few of the youngest and best-formed specimens should 
be grown without pruning, and if their growth is brought to completion 
early in the season they will yield a good number of their fragrant 
flowers during late autumn and winter. It is a good plan to restrict 
plants grown for this purpose at their roots, so that their growths are 
short and sturdy. The young stock for the main supply of flowers 
next spring, if raised and treated as directed, will be ready for 
placing into G-inch pots. If these are grown in heat and moisture 
they will make bushy specimens 18 inches or more over by autumn, and 
produce from twenty to thirty flowers each. Those rooted early in the 
year must be pushed forward with all possible speed ; stopping the shoots 
to induce them to branch, and repotting as the roots advance, are the 
main points to be attended to. When the plants are established in their 
pots give liberal supplies of water, and syringe twice daily during bright 
weather. Use for a compost good fibry loam three parts, one part leaf 
