Jnn 4 , 1891 . ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
455 
SiLVEB BANKSIAN MEDALS, 
F. Wigan, Esq., Clare Lawn, East Sheen, group of Orchids. 
M. S. Cook, Esq., Kingston Hill, group of Orchids. 
T. Statter, Esq., Stand Hall, Whitfield, Manchester, Orchids (cut 
blooms). 
Right Hon. J. Chamberlain, M.P., Highfield, Birmingham, group of 
Masdevallias. 
Messrs. H. Low & Co , group of Orchids. 
Messrs. W. Paul & Son., cut Roses. 
Mr. W. Chambers, The Nursery, Isleworth, floral devices. 
Mr. J. Walker, Thame, cut Roses, &c. 
Mr. M. Smout, 4, Quarry Crescent, Hastings, seaweed, shell, coral, <kc. 
Mr. G. Phippen, Reading, bouquets. 
Mes.srs. Bobbie & Co., Rothesay, N.B., Pansies and Violas. 
Mr. F. Hooper, Bath, Pansies and Roses. 
Mr. D. Baldwin, Hillingdon Heath, group of Pelargoniums. 
Mr. Balchin, The Nursery, Brighton, group of Leschenaultias. 
Mr. T. S. Ware, Tottenham, group of Pteonies. 
Messrs. J. Peed & Sons, The Nurseries, Norwood Road, S.E., group of 
Anthuriums. 
Mr. G. W. Riley, 81, Dulwich Road, Herne Hill, rustic summer houses, 
seats, &c. 
FIG. 88. — LESCHENAULTIA BILOBA MAJOE. (See page 452). 
Beonze Floea Medals. 
Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, eollection of fruit. 
Messrs. W. & E. Wills, Hounslow (gardener, Mr. Thompson), Straw¬ 
berries in pots. 
J. F. Campbell, Esq., Uttoxeter (gardener, Mr. Hollingworth) Black 
Hamburgh and Foster’s Seedling Grapes. 
Messrs. W. S. lies & Co., Warner Road, Camberwell, collection of pottery. 
Major Berkeley, Bitterne, Southampton, group of Orchids. 
W. F. Darnell, Esq., Devonshire House, Stamford Hill (gardener, 
Mr. Elliott), group of Orchids. 
WOKK.F0IITHEWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Regulating the Geowths of Trees. —All trained fruit trees 
should be attended to now that growth is going o>i so fast, in order that 
inequalities in the distribution of sap may be regulated and a waste of 
energy averted. We like to see a certain amount of healthy young- 
growth in all fruit trees at this season of the year provided there are 
also prospects of a good crop of fruit ; but very often one part of the 
tree will grow too strongly and appropriate more than its due share of 
the sap, and strong sappy wood is made which has to be cut away in the 
autumn. All such strong shoots should be taken away now if they can 
be spared without spoiling the shape of the tree, or else they must be 
stopped if it is necessary they should remain. Cherries of the Bigarreau 
class are very apt to offend in this respect, also young trees of all kinds 
of fruits, and some older specimens. Any trees that persistently refuse 
to bear a crop of fruit cannot be cured by pruning the tops only, this 
merely causes them to make fresh growth, and they gradually get worse. 
Such trees should be left without any pruning during the summer, and 
be dealt with by root-pruning in the autumn. Gooseberry and Currant 
bushes often make strong useless growths in the centres; too often these 
are left to extend until the winter pruning, to be then cut away 
and burnt, whereas if cut out now the sap will assist the fruit 
instead of being wasted, and the sun and air admitted will give better 
colour and flavour to the crop, and improve the wood for future 
bearing. 
Newly Geafted Trees. —The scions will now be starting into 
growth, and should be encouraged to do so by reducing the number of 
shoots left on the old stock for drawing the sap into action. If any of 
the scions have failed a strong young shoot may be encouraged to grow, 
and eventually budded to fill up the gap. Stakes should be made ready 
in wet weather on which to fasten the grafts, in order to prevent the 
wind from blowing them off. If dry weather occurs the clay should be 
well attended to by damping it occasionally to prevent it cracking-; 
where moss has been applied over the clay a sprinkle with a water-can 
will be all that is required. 
Clean Culture. —All fruit plantations should be periodically hoed 
to keep down weeds. It is easy to do this when they are small, and 
then if wet ^veather comes for a week or two they will not get over¬ 
grown and need hand-pulling, which is much more expensive, and 
hoeing also does much good in dry weather by preventing undue 
evaporation of moisture. Currants of all kinds are much benefited by 
a mulching of long strawy manure at this season, which prevents soil 
particles being dashed on the fruit by heavy rains, and also keeps the 
roots cool and moist if hot dry weather ensues. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Early House .—As soon as the Grapes are cleared of the 
Vines give the inside borders a thorough supply of liquid manure, with 
tepid water a4ded. This will help to plump the buds and encourage 
root action so essential to the activity of the laterals, which, if allowed 
moderate extension, is the best preventive of premature ripening of 
the foliage. Keep the ventilators open constantly, even in cold weather. 
Syringe thoroughly to cleanse the foliage of dirt and insects, especially 
red spider, and repeat occasionally or as found necessary to keep the old 
or main leaves healthy. Fresh laterals will soon be produced, and 
cu’tivators should maintain an even growth all over the Vines, pinching 
the gross laterals and encouraging the weak. The mulching or covering 
having been removed from the outside border, with just enough of 
the lighter part left to protect the roots, a good watering with liquid 
manure may be given, but this will only be needed where no rain 
has fallen. Avoid heavy mulchings ; nothing is better than an inch 
or two of short fresh stable manure with the long strawy portions 
shaken out. 
Second Early House .—Vines started at the new year have the 
Grapes ripening, but there is fully a fortnight to three -weeks difference 
in the time of ripening between Vines carrying light crops and those 
with heavy crops, and whilst there is no fear of the Ifirst finishing well, 
there is always doubt of the latter passing the “ red” stage. Maintain 
a circulation of warm, rather dry, air constantly, increasing the venti¬ 
lation early. Keep the floors -well damped on hot days with a view to 
check excessive evaporation, allowing the temperature to fall to 60° at 
night when cold, or 65° when warm, with sufficient warmth in the pipes 
to prevent moisture condensing. If there is likely to be any want of 
finish allow the Vines time by giving as long a rest at night as possible. 
If there is any doubt about the roots lacking moisture examine th® 
border, and, if found necessary, give a thorough soaking in the morning 
of a fine day, and when soaked in mulch with a little light material. 
This will probably be sufficient to keep the border moist until the Grapes 
are cut; if not, it must be repeated. Moderate moisture, even after the 
Grapes are ripe, is essential to the health of the foliage, hence damping 
the floors and stages must be resorted to occasionally, as there is no fear 
of its damaging ripe Grapes at this season if only it be accompanied 
with air ; besides, the moisture will assist in keeping the Grapes, and to 
prevent colour being taken out of Hamburghs a double thickness of 
pilchard nets should be drawn over the roof lights. Allow a moderate 
extension of the laterals to encourage root action, but keep gross laterals 
well in check so as to cause an equal distribution of the sap. When 
ripe a minimum temperature of 60° will be sufficient. 
Hidseason Houses .—Vines in these will be in various stages of 
development, according to the time of starting. Those that have stoned 
will be swelling the berries fast, and the borders should have a soaking 
of tepid water through a surface mulching an inch or two thick; or if 
the Vines are not vigorous and carrying a heavy crop, afford either » 
surface dressing of superphosphate 2 ozs. to the square yard, washed in 
with tepid water, or apply tepid liquid manure. The drainage being 
goo-I, the wintering, whether with water or liquid manure, will need to 
