466 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jnne U, 1691 
and st 3 de of flowering the hybrid is n3ar to D. racemosa ; the 
colour, too, resemble? that spscies, but th? flnwers have gained 
somewhat of the size and shape of D. grandidora. The two 
lower divisions are ovate, of a bright deep rose tint ; the upper 
one is nearly cordate or roundetl and cucuTite, of a paler caJour, 
nearly white at the base ; the small lip is hollowed and spotted with 
deep crimson. This will probably become a popular companion 
to D. grandiflora.—L. C. 
PREPARING STRAWBERRY PLANTS. 
Strawberries are popular, not simply on account of the fruit, 
but for the ea?e with which Strawberries may be cultivated. Some 
cottagers produce fruit equal to those found in gardens of far 
greater pretensions ; it is also the first outdoor fruit obtainable by 
the pooi’er classes. No other hardy fruit can be grown under so 
many conditions, and certainly no other fruit will bring in such a 
quick return for the outlay on land and labour. But it is not 
respecting the quality and value of Strawberries as a crop that I 
write this short article, the intention is to give a hint or two on the 
preparation of the plants. 
To secure the best results an early start is absolutely necessary, 
whether the Strawberries are intended for forming new plantations 
or for pot culture. I have an instance of this, for single plants of 
Yicomtesse Hericart de Thury, placed out early last August, h\d 
an average of twelve trusses each, the trusses with from twelve to 
fourteen flowers, a splendid prospect for fruit on such young 
plants ; but unfortunately the frost of Miy 17th spoilt this. On 
plants of Noble, treated in the same way, there are six and eight 
trusses; while some of President, which did not receive any special 
preparation, and were not placed out for a month later, have not 
more than four trusses at the most, and a smaller per-centage of 
blooms. Results like these are worthy of some consideration. 
The method we adopt may entail a little mo”e labour I admit, 
but the result fully compensates for the extra outlay in labour. 
In the first place, we provide plants to give us early runners, and 
nothing else. These a^'e not intended to ripen any fruit. We, 
therefore, plant a few roots of each kind in any out-of-the-way 
place, when the stock for pots and outdoor plantations have been 
secured the previous September. Owing to want of space in the 
kitchen garden, and for convenience in attending to them after- 
avards, ours are placed out 9 inches apart within the Box edging, 
near the Gooseberry and Currant borders. Such an arrangement 
obviates the necessity of treading on the soil to layer the runners, 
and to afford them water daily afterwards in dry weather. 
The flower trusses are not allowed to develop, but are promptly 
removed as soon as they show, which concentrates the whole energy 
of the plant on the formation of runners. When the runners 
make their first joint they are ready for layering into S inch pots. 
At the bottom of each pot we place one crock, not solely for 
drainage, but to prevent the passage becoming stopped by worms. 
We fill the pots firmly to within half an inch of the top with a 
compost of three parts fibry loam and one part of the materials 
from a spent Mushroom bed. On the top of the soil we secure the 
runner with a small peg made from twigs, or, what is better still, 
thin galvan'sed wire, which lasts many years. Some persons fasten 
the runners down with a stone, which answers very well if not 
removed, but in the event of an accident many runners may be 
disturbed, which interferes with their rooting ; pegs provide a 
greater safety. Other runners will start from this, which may be 
utilised to the extent of three from the first if the stock of any 
variety is short ; but if a plentiful supply of single runners, or at 
the most two, can be had they are preferable, as the plants then 
quickly gather strength when restricted. 
Plunge the pots in the soil, which will minimbe the labour in 
supplying them with water during dry weather. The soil in the 
pots must be kept moist to favour quick rooting. When the plants 
are well furnished with roots the runners may be severed from the 
parent plant. Those intended for culture in pots should be trans¬ 
ferred to their largest pots at once. If for outdoor culture the 
sooner they are planted after that stage the better it will be for 
their future welfare, choosing showery weather for the work if 
possible.—E. MoLYNEfx. 
THE CARNATION. 
[A Paper by Mr. J.vmf.s Douglas, read at the meeting of the Hawick Horticultural 
Mutual Improvemeut Association, ilay 23tli.] 
{^Continued from page 443.") 
Culture. 
As is well knowm, the Carnation is perfectly hardy, and succeeds 
well as a decorative plant in the flower garden ; and the plants are, I 
think, most beautiful in masses of one colour. The soil ought 
to be deep, and well manured with good decayed stable manure, 
which ought to be about G inches below the surface, that it may 
not come into immediate contact with the roots of the plants. 
The roots will run into it during their period of growth. I approve 
of planting the layers out as som as they can be obtained in the 
autumn, that they may be well established and have good hold of 
the ground before the frosts of winter set in to disturb them. The 
w'at^hful cultivator will see that his ground is free from wireworms 
before the plants are put out, and also that no slugs or leather- 
coated grubs are allowed to feed at their leisure upon the leaves 
when the weather is mild in winter. Sparrows are everywhere, 
and the old birds are attracted by the fresh young leaves as soon 
as new growth is formed in the spring ; they bite off the leave.s 
and mangle the flower stems ; but the birds are easily scared by 
white cotton thread being strained over the beds 6 inches or more 
above the plants. Neat sticks about 2 feet in length should be 
placed to the flower stems. The flowers will open about the end 
of July. 
The plants are obtained in three ways—by seeds for new 
varieties, by layering, and by cuttings. The saving and sowing 
seeds is perhaps the most interesting part of the florist’s work. 
There is much pleasurable excitement in watching the development 
of the plants, from the small seedlings to the large bushy flowering' 
specimen, which will produce as many as two hundred flowers. 
The opening of the flowers is a delightful surprise to the young 
cultivator ; he is expecting great things, and if his expectations 
are not quite realised there is sure to be some distinct and good 
varieties amongst them. The seeds of Carnations and Picotees 
can be purchased at most large seed shops, and some good varieties 
are likely to be produced therefrom ; but the most satisfactory 
way is for the cultivator to save his own seeds by carefully 
hybridising certain varieties. For instance, take the class oi 
scarlet bizarres, and apply the pollen of one of the best varieties 
t) the stigmatic portion of the flower of another good variety in 
the same class, or any other of the classes may be treated in the- 
same way, it not being desirable to intermingle the classes. The 
result of this careful treatment may be the production of three or 
four really good varieties in a hundred plants that may be worth 
trying again. Ten or a dozen plants may produce flowers quite 
single, many will be self-coloured, and the remainder streaked and 
spotted in a fantastic manner. Most of them are adapted to cut for 
decorative purposes, to arrange in vases, &c., their perfume being 
varied and delightful. The time to sow the seeds is the last week 
in March or the first in April. Sow them in pots or small pans 
and place them in a hotbed to vegetate ; if there is a brisk but not 
too strong bottom heat the plants will be up in a week from the 
time of sowing. The young plants must be pricked out alsa as 
soon as the seed leaves have grown to their full size ; if this is not 
done promptly many of the young seedlings may damp off and be 
lost. After they have been pricked out about 2 or 3 inches apart 
in boxes the plants are safe. They must be gradually inured first 
to the temperature of a cold frame, and later out of doors, to be 
planted about 15 inches asunder where they have to flower about 
the end of May or early in June. The plants will flower very 
strongly the following season, producing immense numbers of 
blossoms on each plant. The soil ought to be deeply worked and 
well manured. 
The flakes, bizarres, Picotees, and seifs are propagated by layering. 
This operation is performed in July or early in August. The sooner 
it can be done after the layers are large enough the better. The 
plants will be stronger ; they can be removed from the parent 
plant earlier, and may be planted out by the middle of September,, 
so that they become well istablished before the winter sets in. 
If they are for planting in small pots to pass through the 
winter in cold frames a good time to do this is the last week in 
September or the first in October, one pair or a single strong 
plant in a large GO. 
The tree or perpetual flowering varieties are usually produced 
from cuttings of the side growths ; these form roots freely in the- 
early months of the year ; they are planted in small pots singly after 
roots are formed, and if grown carefully in a glass house or pit 
until the first week in June may then be placed in an open sunny 
position out of doors, and w’ill thus form good flowering plants by 
the end of the season. Their flowers are produced all through th& 
winter months ; but it is necessary to grow the plants near the glass 
where they get as much light as possible, and in a temperature of 
about 55°. This section is not grown in such large pots as the 
others ; very good flowering plants may be produced in 6-inch pots. 
The whole process of culture is this :—The cuttings are placed tea 
or a dozen together in a 5-inch pot, when they have formed roots 
thej' are planted in thumb pots or small GO’s. When well esta¬ 
blished they are repotted into larger sizes, and they are gradually 
removed from the propagating house to a greenhouse, and from, 
thence to a cold frame ; but they make the best plants if left out. 
of doors duiing the summer months. 
(To be continued.! 
