472 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June n, 1891. 
rather than dry. At the same time, it must not remain excessively damp 
during the winter, because such a soil would cause the Celery to rot. A 
stiff and adhesive soil is not suitable for the culture of this moisture- 
loving plant, except in the case of plantings for autumn use. 
Sefid and Soioing. —Where there is not the convenience of a hotbed 
in which to raise young Celery and other plants, open a pit about 2 feet 
square, and the same depth, in a warm corner of the garden. Fill this 
with short stable dung to within 4 inches of the top, and surface with 
light, rich, fine soil, made level and firm with the hand, and on this sow 
the seed thinly about the middle of February, covering it lightly wnth 
some of the same kind of soil, and then water gently through a fine- 
sprayed watering-pot. Place a handlight or a square of glass over the 
seed bed, and cover with a mat or litter until the young plants appear, 
when they should be fully exposed to daylight, tilting up the glass a 
little on fine days to prevent the plants making a weakly growth. 
Make another small sowing in the middle of March, and a third on a 
warm border a month later, without protection. 
Pricliing Out the Seedling Plants. — As soon as the plants have 
made two or three rough leaves they may be pricked out about 
4 inches apart in 2 or 3 inches deep of sifted soil, placed on a like 
depth of short dung, resting on a hard bottom near a south or west 
wall or fence. They should be dropped into holes made with a small 
pointed stick, the soil being pressed about the roots, sufficient water 
being given to settle the soil about them, then shaded from sunshine 
until the roots have pushed into the soil. This may be easily done by 
placing a mat or cloth over a few Bean sticks supported by short forked 
sticks. The soil should always be kept moist about the roots of the 
plants. As the days lengthen, and the plants increase in growth, the 
application of water at the roots should become more frequent. 
Preparing the Trenches. —The best way to grow Celery is in trenches 
running north and south. The width of these must be determined by 
the number of rows intended to be planted in each trench. The best 
sticks of Celery are secured by planting only one row of plants in each 
trench. These single-row trenches must be 4 feet apart from centre 
to centre, at least 12 inches deep and 16 inches wide ; the soil taken 
therefrom being formed into a ridge between the trenches, on each of 
which a couple of rows of Lettuce may be grown at 1 foot apart during 
the interval from opening the trenches to the general earthing-up of the 
plants. Into each of these trenches dig 6 inches deep of the best manure 
at command, breaking the soil fine as the work of digging is proceeded 
with. 
Transplanting. —The plants, having been pricked out in soil prepared 
in the manner recommended above, can be lifted with balls of earth and 
short dung attached to the roots. Set these 9 inches asunder along the 
centre of the trench, planting them therein with a garden trowel, and 
making the soil firm about the roots with the hands, giving water 
immediately afterwards to settle the soil. Take advantage of showery 
vyeather to transplant these and all other plants, as they then experience 
little, if any, check. As soon as the plants, from any or all of the 
sowings, have attained to a height of 3 or 4 inches, they should be 
transplanted in the manner just described. 
Earthing the Plants. —When the plants have made from 12 inches 
to 15 inches growth earth them in this way. The soil is cut down a 
little from the ridge on either side the plants, the leaves are then drawn 
together in an upright position at the top, and held with one hand 
while the loosened soil is drawn up and pressed round each plant with 
the other hand up to within a couple of inches of the heart or top of 
central leaves, taking particular care not to let any of the soil get into 
the heart of the plants in the process of landing them up, as this would 
spoil the heads or sticks of Celery. By allowing the plants to reach the 
heights mentioned before earthing them up, labour is economised and 
the chance of soil getting into the hearts is lessened, while the primary 
object of earthing-up—blanching the head, is secured as completely as 
by carrying out the operation at shorter intervals. It is not only a 
waste of labour to earth Celery when about 6 inches high, as is fre¬ 
quently done, but the risk of getting soil into the hearts is thereby 
increased. The last earthing should be done before frost sets in. In 
the event of the weather being severe the tops of the plants must be 
protected by a sprinkling of the Bracken Fern (which is very plentiful 
in some districts) or straw. This can be removed in mild weather and 
returned when necessary. It is almost impossible to keep Celery plants 
too moist at the roots during the summer and early autumn, therefore 
copious supplies of water should be given during hot weather, or a large 
psr-centage of the plants will “ bolt,” i.e., run to seed. 
Insect Attachs. —The Celery fly (Tephritis onopordinis) lays its eggs 
in or upon the leaves of the plant, and the larvse produced feed upon 
the soft green substance of the leaves, forming blisters or hollows 
within the leaf. These maggots are found from June to November, and 
the only way of preventing their spreading is to pinch the blisters as 
soon as they appear, cutting off and burning all the affected leaves that 
can be removed with safety to the plant. A mixture of fresh soot and 
lime dusted over the plants while damp is a good remedy for most 
insects which attack the leaves. 
Turnip-rooted Celery. — This is much prized in France and 
^ermany as a table vegetable. Unlike the common Celery the stem 
instead of forming a_ mere extension of the leaves develops into knobs, 
weighing from 1 to 5 lbs. each. This is sometimes sliced and used as an 
ingredient in salads. It is much more hardy than the ordinary Celery, 
and its roots can be taken up and stored out of the reach of frost. The 
plants can be raised in the same way as the ordinary Celery, and the 
young plants treated in the way recommended above. At the beginning 
or middle of June the plants ean be placed out in a pif-ce of moderately 
rich and rather sandy soil, in rows 18 inches apart, and the plants set 
1 foot asunder in the row. Before planting all the side shoots, some of 
the outside leaves and the side or branching fibres on the roots are 
removed. The plants are set shallow, the roots being scarcely so deep 
in the ground as they had previously been. During growth a little of 
the soil can be drawn from around them once or twice, and all lateral 
or side fibres removed. When nearly full grown the bulbs should be 
covered with a little soil in order to bleach them. 
Tailing the Crop. —The roots will be fit for urn in September or 
Oetober. Before severe weather sets in the crop may be taken up» 
divested of all the foliage except the heart leaves, and be laid in a dry 
border in front of a south wall or fence, burying the bulbs about an 
inch underneath the soil, and protecting them with fern or litter 
when considered necessary.—H. W. Ward. 
THE ROYAL NATIONAL TULIP SOCIETY. 
Manchester.—June 6th. 
In dull weather, with leaden skies overhead and a north-easterly 
wind reminding one of March, the annual Exhibition, postponed from 
the 30th ult., was held. A more trying season for Tulip growers has 
scarcely been experienced. Not only are the flowers late, but they show 
signs of stress of weather—damaged in petal, tinted with green, and 
otherwise defaced ; and yet a great many more blooms were staged than 
we expected to see, and a few exceptionally good blooms were exhibited, 
but they were generally small, and so late are they in some districts 
that the fear is for lack of warm sunny weather to assist the expansion. 
Many buds may rot. At the luncheon to the Judges which followed the 
making of their awards, Mr. Samuel Barlow made allusion to the serious 
losses the Tulip Soeiety has experienced during the past year through 
the deaths of leading supporters, and deplored the falling off in sub¬ 
scriptions which would be the result, and expressed the hope that some 
young growers wmuli be found coming forward to take the places of 
those they had lost. 
The flowers were arranged on ta'-Jes placed down the centre of the 
glass-covered annexe. There were six collections of twmlve dissimilar 
Tulips, two feathered and two flamed, in each class. The first prize was- 
awarded to Mr. Thomas Haynes, Warwick, for twelve blooms, which 
stood out from all the rest in regard to size, marking, and finish. He 
had of feathered bizarres Sir Joseph Paxton and Duke of Edinburgh 
(Haynes), the latter a seedling from Captain White or Sanzio, of a 
bright deep golden ground colour, feathered with rich crimson, a 
variety of excellent build ; flamed bizarres, Sir Joseph Paxton and 
Dr. Hardy ; feathered bybloemens, Violet Amiable and Bessie ; flamed 
byblcemens, Duchess of Sutherland and Talisman; feathered roses. 
Heroine and Lizzie (Dymock) ; flamed roses, Mabel and Aglaia. In 
addition to Duke of Edinburgh, flamed bizarres Sir J. Paxton and 
Dr. Hardy and flamed Rose Mabel were in very good character. Second, 
Mr. J. H. Woods, Royton, with blooms much smaller in size than the 
foregoing, having feathered bizarres Sir J. Paxton and Masterpiece ; 
flamed bizarres, William Lea and Sir Joseph Paxton; feathered 
bybloemens. Talisman and Adonis ; flamed bybloemens, Chancellor and 
Duche=s of Sutherland ; feathered rose, Aglaia and Miss Wood, a 
charming flower, feathered with cherry-rose ; and flamed roses, Mabel 
and Aglaia. Third, Mr. Samuel Barlow, Stakehill House, whose flowers 
were quite small owing to their lateness. He bad feathered bizarres 
Lord Stanley and William Wilson ; flamed bizarres. Sir J. Paxton and 
Ashmole’s Seedling; feathered bybloemens, Mrs. Cooper and Alice 
Grey ; flamed byblcemens, Jackson’s Seedling and Talisman ; feathered 
roses. Heroine and Modesty ; flamed roses. Lady Catherine Gordon 
and Annie McGregor. Mr. *C. W. Needham, Royton, was fourth, and 
Mr. J. W. Bentley, Stakehill, the Hon. Secretary to the Society, fifth. 
There were nine stands of six varieties, and here Mr. T. Haynes was 
again first with six excellent blooms, one feathered and one flamed, in 
each class. He had of bizarres George Hayward, feather very fine, and 
Sir J. Paxton, flamed, also in fine character; bybloemens, Connersby 
Castle, feathered, and Talisman, flamed; roses, Mabel, both feathered 
and flamed. Second, Mr. C. W. Needham, with bizarres Masterpiece,, 
feathered, and Sir J. Paxton, flamed ; bybloemens Unknown, feathered, 
and Duchess of Sutherland, flamed; roses, Mabel, both feathered and 
flamed. Third, Mr. J. H. Wood, with bizarres Sir J. Paxton, both 
feathered and flamed ; roses. Modesty, feathered, and Mabel, flamed ; 
bybloemens, Adonis, feathered, and Talisman, flamed. Fourth, 
Mr. Samuel Barlow, who had in fine form General Grant, a red-feathered 
bizarre, and Friar Tuck, feathered byblmmen. Fifth, Mr. Joseph 
Hague, Stockport. Sixth, Mr. J. W. Bentley. Seventh, Mr. W. Dymock, 
Stockport. 
Class 3 was for six Tuhps, one of each class, the competition con¬ 
fined to half-guinea subscribers only, four of these competing. Here 
Mr. John Hayes, Lowton, was fi''st with bizarre Sir J. Paxton feathered, 
and Orpheus flamed; roses. Industry feathered, and Mabel, flamed; 
bybloemens, Bessie feathered, and Adonis, flamed. Second, Mr. J. 
Housley with bizarre Royal Sovereign featherel, and Sir J. Paxton 
flamed; bybloemens, Agnes feathered, and Chancellor flamed ; 
ros?s, klrs. Seaforth and Mabel flamed, Tnird, Mr. S. Johnson, 
Stafford. Fourth, Mr. W. Prescott, Lowton. 
In the class for three feathered Tulips, one of each class, Mr. J. H. 
Woods was first with bizarre Sir J. Paxton; bybloemens, Violet 
Amiable and Modesty flamed. ■ Second, Mr. Samuel Barlow with bizarre 
William Wilson, bybloemen Mr. Cooper, and rose Sarah Headly, 
