478 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ ju:e 11, isr. 
Tulips Faillngr (TT”. S'). —We shall be glad if you will state the 
kinds of Tulips to which you refer, when and how they were planted, 
and if top-dressed with what material. 
Exhibiting' IMCushrooms ((?.). — Certainly a dish of first-class 
■Mushrooms would “carry some weight” in a collection of vegetables 
■exhibited towards the end of July, but whether those you may happen to 
have at the time will carry “ more weight than Kidney Beans ” no one 
■can say without comparison. Inferior Mushrooms would be weaker 
than superior Beans and vice versa. The superiority of either on the 
day of the show should determine the choice. Never stage a bad dish of 
anything if you have a good one of anything else. 
Muscat Grapes (^Anxmis). —If you mean by the “ limbs wither¬ 
ing,'’ the non-swelling of some of the berries, it is the result of imperfect 
fertilisation. This may he the consequence of too much atmospheric 
moisture or a too low temperature at a critical time. In our “ Work for 
the Week columns” the proper conditions and methods for setting 
Muscat Grapes have keen repeatedl}- pointed out. The bunch you have 
sent is not half so faulty as many we have seen, and it would not be 
by any means a bad one if it bad been left and properly thinned. 
Remove the abortive berries, leaving those that are swelling freely, and 
you will not have to grieve over a very great failure if you sent one of 
'the worst bunches from the Vines. 
Mildew on Vines (^Under Gardener and J. II.). —This is induced 
by a chill, the result of a too low temperature or sharp current of air 
which affec’s the fluidity of the sap and arrests its free movement, also 
by a too close and damp atmosphere, and keeping the ventilators of 
houses closed too long in the morning, as well of by drought at the roots. 
The parasite will undoubtedly spread from house to house rvhen the con¬ 
ditions are favourable for the germination of the spores. Sulphuring the 
pipes is, we suspect, rather preventive than remedial, and in virulent 
■cases seldom effectual. Direct applications are then necessary, and if 
sulphur fails we can only direct you to the references embodiei in a 
reply to “ W. A. J.” under the heading of “Tomatoes,” and to a prepara- 
■tion of sulphur and lime described on page 377, our issue of the 7th ult. 
Beetle Infesting Strawberries (.7. TT7 IF.). —It is an insect 
■cal'ed Harpalus jeneus, one of the family of ground beetles, of predatory 
habit, known to feed upon small molluscs and insect larvae or grubs, 
Irence till lately regarded as a garden friend rather than a foe. About 
five years ago, however, observations in various places proved that this 
beetle and several allied species attacked ripe and unripe Strawberries, 
doing considerable mischief. Some enterprising beetle, it may be 
surmised, had experimented on the new food, and finding it good as a 
cnange circulated the news amongst its brethren. They defy most 
insect killers, and the most effectual plan is to trap them, for they come 
out to feed at night. Slates or boards should be laid about here and 
there, under these the beetles will hide when daylight appears ; or a still 
better trap is to put down Isome drain-pipes loosely filled with hay, into 
which they creep, and can be shaken out into boiling water. The larvte 
of the beetles eat the roots of the plants. 
^JVeak Asparagus (.7. II.). —The weakness of the produce is cer- 
•tiinly not the result of non-salting the beds this spring. The character 
of the stems is governed by the condition of the crowns as formed and 
matured during the preceding summer and autumn. The stronger the 
summers growth the finer the spring heads, and salting in spring does 
not strengthen the stems for cutting, but it favourably influences the 
after growth of those uncut in some soils and seasons. Generally, the 
practice of salting is good, especially in dry soils and localities ; but a 
good dressing of manure is often of greater advantage. Probably most 
cultivators both dress the beds with manure after the stems are cut 
down, and apply salt in the spring. If the salting did nothing more 
than keep down weeds it would do material good, as these appropriate 
the virtues from the soil that would otherwise be retained in it for the 
Asparagus. Cutting too closely and too late is a common cause of weak 
Asparagus, and several applications of liquid manure to the beds in 
summer are of greater benefit than the majority of persons appear to 
appreciate. Some Asparagus beds are much overcrowded, and the 
produce then is bound to be weak. 
Fungus on Tomatoes (IF. A. J .).—The fungus has been kept so 
much in check as to do little injury, if not entirely destroyed, with one 
or other of the remedies that have been recently alluded to in the Journal 
•of Horticulture (see pp. 407 and 459), also the advertisement of the 
Acme Chemical Company, which is now appearing. The efficacy of 
these, as of all remedie.s, depends largely on the action of individuals. 
If fungi or insects are allowed to become firmly established on plants no 
©ne has a right to expect their sudden extirpation and the quick 
recovery of the lost health of the p’ants. It is only when prompt 
measures are taken on the first appearance of plant enemies that these 
can be effectually subdued, and in the absence of this early action no 
one can justly condemn a preparation which, if applied sooner, might 
effect the object intended. We do not suppose that any application to 
the roots would destroy the fungus on the leaves, nor is there any danger 
when these are dressed soon enough of the fruit being rendered in the 
least unsafe for use. We can only advise you to act in accordance with 
your 'well-known intelligence in doing what is best under the particular 
circumstances of the case. Aou may learn a good deal from a few well- 
cond acted experiments. 
Mushrooms Withering (IF. H. IF.).—When a number of very 
small Mushrooms spring up round the larger and shrivel after the best 
are pulled it is in consequence mainly of the nutriment having been 
diverted and appropriated by the larger specimens. You may regard 
it if you like as an example of the principle embodied in the famous 
dream of old of the “ fat eating up the lean kine,” or, as otherwise 
expressed in the Darwinian law of the “survival of the fittest.” But 
when small pea-like Mushrooms appear in quantity they shrivel, whether 
the large ones are cut or not, also if there are no large ones. This is the 
result of inherent weakness, caused by the extreme sub-division of the 
force of the spawn, instead of its concentration on few’er points. The 
withering is more common at this period of the year than earlier, and 
a multitude of small Mushrooms indicates poverty of material in the 
manure or soil, and also sometimes occurs when the spawn is made to 
“ run ” near the surface more than it ought by some error in covering 
the beds. If you think the shrivelling of the small is caused by tbe 
pulling of the large, why not try cutting them instead ? Many 
gardeners cut the crops and twist out tbe stems a day or two afterwards, 
but the most successful growers of Mushrooms for market do not do so 
for two or three good reasons mentioned in the woik to which you 
refer. 
Warts on Vine Beaves (7. AI. .7.).—Y'ou do not commence 
ventilation sufficiently early in the morning. It is a mistake to keep 
the house entirely closed till the thermometer registers 75°. A free 
circulation of air is essential at all times, avoiding sharp currents. The 
following is what Mr. William Thomson says on the subject in his 
admirable -work on the Vine, published by Blackwood ;—“ This is a sort 
of conglomerate of little green warts that form on the lower surface of 
the leaf, as if the result of an extravasation of sap through its epidermis 
or skin. Some writers say this is not a disease. If it is not such, 
strictly speaking, it is at least organised matter in the wrong place ; and 
I am confident it seriously impedes the important functions of perspira¬ 
tion, digestion, and respiration ; so that if not in itself a disease, it leads 
to functional derangement, which is nearly the same thing. As has 
been remarked while treating of the effects of sulphur, these green warts 
are more easily affected by the particles thereof floating in the 
atmosphere of the vinery than any other portion of the Vine, except the 
embryo berries. I can undertake to produce or prevent this disease— 
shall I call it ?—at any time betwixt the first expans'on of the foliage 
and the stoning of the fruit. A close, warm atmosphere, saturated with 
moisture, will produce it; whereas a free circulation of air, moderately 
eharged with moisture, will prevent its appearance. I have seen 
instances where the leaves were so affected by it that they all cupped 
themselves up round the edges, the fruit did not swell to much more 
than half its natural size, and the general progress of the Vine was 
retarded.” Your other question cannot be answered this week. 
Renovating Orchids (P. J. C.). —The following is, as nearly as 
possible, the culture practised with such excellent results by Mr. Osborne 
at Aymestry Court, but some time must elapse before your plants can 
be restored to growing condition. Though it is getting rather late for 
potting, still in some instances it may be done until the end of June 
with good results. In this case to save the plants potting must be done 
at once. The first thing to procsed with is to have on hand some good 
fibrous peat, broken up about the s’ze of large walnuts, and pass it 
through a coarse sieve to remove the finer particles ; some sphagnum 
moss from which all weeds and rubbish have been removed, a heap of 
clean crocks, some charcoal, and lastly the pots themselves, which must 
be thoroughly clean. Three parts fill the pots with crocks (the larger 
ones at the bottom), then a few lumps of charcoal, on which place a 
layer of peat. Now for the plants themselves. Turn them out of the 
pots they are at p-esent occupying, and shake from the roots every 
scrap of the old compost, removing all decayed roots. Place the plants 
carefully on the peat, and work peat round the roots, so as to bring the 
plants a little above the rim of the pot, finishing off with a little 
sphagnum pushed in between the peat with a label. Previous to plants 
being placed in position on the stages see that the woodwork, &.C., of the 
house is thoroughly cleaned, then stage the plants and water them 
through a fine rose. When growth has fairly commenced they will 
require a liberal supply of water at the roots—in fact, they should never 
be allowed to become dry. Plenty of water may be thrown about the 
house and stages, and the plants receive a sb'ght dewing morning and 
afternoon throughout the summer. Mr. Osborne has during the summer 
a layer of sweet leaves 6 inches deep spread underneath the stages, 
which he considers admirable for containing a certain amount of 
moisture, tending to keep the plants healthy. A little sunshine is very 
beneficial, but during bright sunshine shading must be resorted to. 
Various experiments have been tried with manures, but very weak 
guano water given once a week during the growing season has proved far 
and above every other yet tried, especially in the growing of 0. vexil- 
larium. If insects make their appearance careful sponging with clean 
water will be found the safest plan to follow. The temperatures 
recommended are—summer 55° night, 55° to 65° day ; autumn and 
winter 45° night, 55° day. Many advocate a lower winter temperature, 
but 50° is considered a greater aid to successful cultivation than 40°, 
A few of the Odontoglossums, such as 0. vexillarium, Roezli, grande, 
Harryana, &c., are the better for an intermediate house. If “ P. J. C.” 
follows this system of culture the collection is certain to improve. 
ITames of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fiondy 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, dry 
