498 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jnte 18, 1891. 
the wood ripe, and in fertilising the bunches when in flower with Black 
Hamburgh. A pound of Grapes per foot of rod is usually as many as 
Vines ordinarily finish off well, therefore reduce the bunches so as to 
give about that weight, and if error is made let it be on the safe side, 
as Vines that are overburdened never finish their fruit well, and it is 
inferior in keeping qualities. 
Regulating the Groioths. —All foliage that can have exposure to light 
must be allowed, but when the space is fairly covered with leaves keep 
the shoots closely pinched. An excess of foliage is not good, though it 
is often encouraged with a view to root action ; but it is elaborated sap 
that builds up the structure of the Vine, the crop of the current year 
and the wood and buds that give the fruit of the next. The foliage 
should be rather thinner in the case of white Grapes than in black ; this 
more particularly applies to Muscats, which of all Grapes require high 
elaboration of the sap to insure their assuming the rich golden amber so 
much prized. Avoid large reductions of foliage at a time ; it only tends to 
cause shanking through the check given the roots. Keep the growths 
tied down from the glass, and so prevent scorching. Vines extending 
must be allowed to make as much lateral growth as practicable, always 
bearing in mind the wood on which the fruit is to be borne next season 
must have full exposure for its foliage, as it is the principal leaves that 
elaborate the sap and transmit the assimilated matter that forms the 
buds at their base. The laterals from these having been stopped at the 
first joint they may be allowed to ramble afterwards, subject to their not 
interfering with the access of light to the main leaves. 
Watering. —Inside borders must be well supplied with tepid water, 
following in the case of Vines that are carrying full crops and in good, 
but not too vigorous, health with liquid manure, a'so in a tepid 
state, mulching lightly with short rather lumpy material, which if kept 
moist will give out ammonia, and attract the roots to the surface. If 
more aliment is wanted apply sulphate of ammonia where the soil is 
rather strong and not chalky or particularly calcareous, but where the 
soil is light use nitrate of soda, also where the soil is very calcareous. 
Half an ounce per square yard is enough of either of these salts, repeat¬ 
ing it at intervals of about six weeks. If the Vines require solidity use 
superphosphate of lime—say, a couple of ounces per square yard ; and 
if the foliage is pale in colour add half an ounce of nitrate of potash 
(saltpetre). These are best given after the border has been watered, 
following with a light watering after their application. Do not allow 
the border to become dry at the surface. Neglect in watering borders 
that are well drained, as all Vine borders should be, and mulching, 
especially where the Vines are carrying heavy crops, is not only 
disastrous to the present crop, through inducing attacks of red spider 
and premature ripening of the foliage, but injuriously affecting next 
year’s crop of fruit. Outside borders may only need a light mulch, as 
the recent rains have made them moist enough ; but if dry a soaking of 
tepid liquid manure should be given whenever necessary. 
Temperature and Ventilation. —Cold nights render fires still neces¬ 
sary. All late Grapes thrive best in a high temperature, with abundant 
food both at the roots and in the atmosphere. Fires should be employed 
to maintain a night temperature of 65°, and 70° to 75° by day in dull 
weather. Admit air early, admitting a little at the top of the house 
constantly, increasing the ventilation with the temperature, allowing an 
advance to 85° or 90°, at which keep through the day from sun heat, 
reducing the ventilation with the declining sun. Close at 85°, damping 
the paths well then, and again before nightfall. It is well to close 
for a short time, and afterwards admit a little air, w'hich will prevent a 
vitiated atmosphere and allow of the foliage drying in the morning by the 
time the sun acts powerfully. Late Grapes are generally backward this 
season, hence the desirability of making the most of sun heat, and 
aiding with artificial. Avoid cold draughts or sudden depressions of 
temperature, as they cause rust and favour the spread of mildew. 
Melons. —Late Melons are not held in such high esteem as early ; 
indeed, they are considered worth little after the hot days of summer, 
but they are often really good when the late summer and autumn 
months are bright. Plants that were raised some time ago and have 
been put out, or should be at once, will set freely in July, and afford 
acceptable fruit in August and September. Make a last sowing for 
growing in dung-heated pits and frames. Make all the beds at once, 
sowing the seed in 4-inch pots half filled with soil, placed in a frame or 
house. One or two seeds may be placed in each pot, and a supply of 
soil given around the stem as the plants advance, but not higher than 
half an inch from the seed leaves. When the bed is ready turn the 
plants out of the pots, place one in the centre of each light, planting to 
within half an inch of the seed leaves with the soil inclining from the 
stem. Give a good watering, and shade from bright sun. Pinch out ths 
point of the leader at the second rough leaf, which will induce side 
shoots. Reduce these to four ; take two to the front and two to the 
back of the frame or pit, rubbing off the laterals to within 9 inches of 
the stem all round, and every other lateral upon the primary shoots, 
stopping those at 6 inches from the sides of the frame. The plants will 
be showing and setting fruit in plenty early in August, and they will 
ripen in late September. All stopping and disbudding must be done 
whilst the growths are small, for large reductions of growths only tend 
to promote grossness in the parts retained, and are unfavourable to the 
netting of the crop and induce canker. 
Second Crops of Melons in Frames. —Plants that have fruited may 
be out baek, have a little of the surface soil removed, adding a little 
fresh, and give a good watering. If due regard has been given to water¬ 
ing for the first crop, and shoots retained from near the base of the 
Vines, fresh growth will be quickly made, and fruit will speedily set 
and swell; indeed, fruits may be had set and swelling before the first 
fruits are cut, growth having been encouraged from near the base of the 
plants. Dry soil at the roots whilst the first crop is ripening exhausts 
the plants, often spoiling the fruits, which ripen prematurely, and con¬ 
sequently are poor in 6avour. Plenty of moisture is necessary wRen the 
fruit is swelling, and enough should be given when ripening to preserve 
the foliage, there being no comparison of fruit ripened with foliage, and 
that which has no foliage to aid it during the ripening process. Take 
every care to preserve the foliage in health, so as to ensure solid per¬ 
fectly finished fruit. 
Setting Melons in Frames. —During moist warm weather the flowers 
do not set freely. It arises from the plants growing too freely, too 
moist atmosphere, crowding the foliage, and closeness. Anything like 
crowding the foliage or shoots is fatal to a good set, therefore the shoots 
should be kept rather thin by removing every alternate lateral whilst 
quite small, for to reduce them greatly wheu large often causes gumming 
or cank'i'r. The laterals retained will for the most part show fruit at 
the second or third joint; if not, stop them at the second joint and the 
sub-laterals will show fruit freely, when water should be given 
sparingly, but if necessary, pour it between the shoots so as not to wet 
the surface of the bed to any great extent. Place hot dung against the 
sides of the frame, or grass mowings will do with a little litter over the 
grass. This will raise a gentle heat, admitting of a little ventilation 
constantly day and night. Fertilise the flowers when fully expanded, 
stopping the shoots at the same time one joint beyond the fruit. Admit 
air freely if fine weather permit, increasing the ventilation at 70°, 
allowing it to rise to 80° or 85° or 90°, at which keep it through the day, 
closing at 80°, except the small portion before alluded to. When the 
fruits are set, two to four on a plant, and the size of a bantam’s egg, 
commence watering by sprinkling the foliage at closing time, always 
keeping the water from the neck of the plants, and besides the sprinkling 
give a good watering twice a week in hot weather, once a week will be 
ample in dull weather. Commence ventilating at 75°, allow the heat to 
rise to 85° or 90°, close by or before the temperature recedes to 80°, or 
between 4 and 5 p.m., with a gentle damping. The temperature may 
run up 10° or more, which will be advantageous to the swelling of the 
fruit. When the fruit is well advanced for ripening keep the bed well 
lined with hot dung or grass mowings, and admit air freely, omitting 
the sprinkling, watering through the spout of the pot instead of through 
a rose. Admit a little air constantly, which will prevent moisture 
depositing and may keep the fruit from cracking. Cut the Vine half 
through a little below the fruit if that occurs, cut the fruit a day or 
two after it commences giving off its aroma, placing it in a warm, dry 
room, and in two or three days it will be in perfection, which is when 
the ripening colour pervades every part of the fruit, after which flavour 
is lost rapidly, and in a few days is entirely gone. 
Gr (Wers who have well heated light houses will have no difficulty in 
maintaining a supply of fairly flavoured fririt through October or 
November from the sowing up to the third or fourth week in July. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Flower Beds, Cold and Wet. —Those newly cleared of spring-flower¬ 
ing plants were doubtless somewhat dry when replanted, and have 
required more water since, but the case was very different with those 
that were unoccupied during the winter, these being both cold and moist 
■when planted this June. The surface was fine, as might be expected 
after a severe winter, and also fairly dry, but irnderneath there was and 
still is abundance of moisture, or so much as to render it unnecessary 
and unwise to water the newly put out plants. Being already too 
cold for the well-being of most of the plants, frequently and heavily 
watering them only aggravates the evil. In very many instances there 
■was no necessity to water the plants even once, especially if they were 
in a properly moist condition at the roots when turned out. In any case 
it is most unwise to be constantly deluging the beds with cold hard 
water,.but should they be found drier than is good for the plants then 
give a good watering ; next day carefully stir and fine down the surface 
with a Dutch hoe, and then mulch with either leaf soil, cocoa-nut fibre 
refuse, or even other fine dry soil. Thus treated the chances are no 
further waterings will be needed. 
Spring-flowering Directly, and in some instances before, the 
summer bedding plants are out the work of preparing a stock of plants 
to closely succeed them in the beds must be commenced. Alyssums, 
Aubrietias, Hepaticas, Myosotises, double Wallflowers, and Violas 
should be pulled to pieces, all rooted divisions be planted out on a 
moderately cool border and light good soil, out of which they will move 
well next autumn ; the rootless pieces to be dibbled into handlights or 
cold frames at the back of a north wall, and be kept close and shaded 
from what bright sunshine may reach them till well rooted. All will 
make serviceable plants by the time wanted. Daisies, Polyanthuses, 
and Primroses also divide very readily, and the divisions should also 
have a place on a cool border. If the soil is at all dry when they 
are firmly planted or dibbled out give them a good watering, and in 
dry hot weather give soakings of water occasionally. Seedling Prim¬ 
roses and Polyanthuses are more vigorous and produce much finer trusses 
than do plants obtained by dividing old clumps, but they ought now to 
be large enough for planting out on cool yet not heavily shaded borders, 
where they will attain a good size by the time wanted for the beds. If 
the seed has been obtained from the best sources the seedlings are well 
worthy of liberal treatment, as they will make quite a gorgeous display 
next spring. 
Seeds to he Sown. —Wallflowers have fared badly, very few plants 
escaping the slugs. Where there are too few plants, at once either sow 
