1873 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
£83 
cases the second growth of grass and clover will 
be larger than the first crop, and will pay well for 
mowing. Cure the hay thoroughly, and save it for 
suckling ewes or new milch-cows. If, owing to 
bad weather, the hay can not be well cured, it is a 
good plan when mowing it away to mix some dry 
straw or old hay with it. 
Thrashing is best done as the wheat is drawn 
from the field. But if you put the wheat in the 
barn and do not want the space, it is better not to 
thrash for two or three weeks, or until the wheat 
has “sweated.” This is particularly true of 
barley and oats. All grain keeps best in the straw. 
Do not Waste Straw. —Some of our best farmers 
thrash out-of-doors, and put the straw in the barn. 
As ordinarily stacked, one-third of the straw is 
often damaged. It pays well to take extra care to 
top off the stack so that the rain can not enter. 
We can not go into details. Keep the middle very 
full, and when finished rake the top down smooth. 
Be careful to fill up the hole where the man stood 
to remove the straw away from the carrier. 
Animals require constant attention. See that 
none of their wants are neglected for a single day. 
A successful breeder must be a prompt, systematic, 
liberal, and provident man. It will not do to feed 
well one month and half starve the next. A few 
days’ neglect will take- off all the profit from a 
month’s feeding. See Hints for last mouth. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
The work in August is mainly in keeping the 
crops in growing condition by cultivating and de¬ 
stroying the weeds. At intervals there will be 
time in which to clear up around the fences and 
hedge rows. Many weeds make these their strong¬ 
holds, and often rubbish is temporarily placed here 
as the most convenient spot which offers. See that 
all the cellars and storehouses are in proper order 
to receive harvested crops, and if repairs are needed 
attend to them before the fall work is pressing. 
ttrcliai'd and Nursery. 
In Marketing the early varieties of apples and 
pears too much care can not be used to prevent 
bruising the fruit during the gathering and trans¬ 
portation to market. The articles upon “ Packing 
and Marketing Produce ” that have appeared in 
several previous numbers, although they relate to 
small fruits, should be studied by every one who 
sends produce of any kind to market, as the general 
directions apply to all kinds. Each crate or pack¬ 
age of fruit should have a uniform character, and 
only first quality fruit sent to market. Avoid 
breaking the limbs when gathering fruit. 
Inferior fruit if sent to market at all should be 
sent as such and marked “seconds.” Such fruit 
is often consumed at home to better advantage than 
to market it; while a bruised apple or pear may in¬ 
jure the sale of aerate, it is perfectly good for cook¬ 
ing or for drying. Where there is sufficient fruit 
to warrant it drying may be done to advantage. 
We commend to the notice of fruit-growers the 
“American Drier,” an engraving and description 
of which were published by us in March last. 
Budding. —Attend to this as soon as the bark 
separates easily and good buds can be had. 
Seedlings will require shade during the hot, dry 
weather. Lath screens or branches of evergreens 
are suitable; these should be removed during 
showers. Collect the seeds as soon as ripe, and 
either sow at once or preserve until spring. Most 
sorts keep best if mixed with sand. 
Insects which now infest fruit trees should be de¬ 
stroyed. Pick up all unripe fruit which falls to the 
ground, and feed to the pigs. Remove all late cater¬ 
pillars as soon as they make their appearance. 
Borers must be probed out with a slender twig or 
cut out, and the wounds covered with grafting wax. 
Mulching. —If trees set in the spring show signs 
of suffering remove the surface-soil, give a thorough 
watering, and apply a thick mulch of straw. 
I’l'iiil harden. 
The principal work here will bo to market the 
fruit as it ripens, and should there he more than 
can be sold or used in the family, the surplus may 
be canned or dried for winter use. 
Blackberries that are to be sold should be gathered 
before they become soft, vhile those for home use 
may be left until dead rip e, 
Raspberries. —Cut away the old canes after the 
fruit has been gathered, and stimulate the growth 
of new canes by the application of fertilizers. Keep 
the weeds down by hoeing, or cultivating. 
Strawberries planted out now from runners which 
are well-rooted will bear a small crop next season. 
The old beds should be kept clear of weeds, and the 
runners clipped if not wanted for new plantations. 
Grapes. —Pinch the laterals, and keep the grow¬ 
ing canes tied up to prevent the wind from break¬ 
ing them. If mildew makes its appearance apply 
sulphur by means of a bellows to the leaves. If 
rot appears among the fruit cut out all affected. 
Dwarf Trees.—Remove all fruit of bad shape, and 
do not allow the tree to ripen too much fruit. Pre¬ 
serve the form of the tree by pinching. 
Cordon Trees will need attention so that they may 
grow in good shape, and to effect this pinching 
must be followed up regularly and persistently. 
Kitclten. GardLem. 
In this department the weeds are the principal 
things which will need attention. The present hot 
weather will cause them to grow very rapidly, and 
there will be danger of smothering young plants 
unless care is taken to remove the weeds as soon 
as they appear. Collect seeds for the ensuing year 
of such sorts as have matured, and store them in a 
dry, airy place. There are many kinds of seeds 
that the market-gardener is careful to raise himself, 
as he knows that by proper selection he can keep 
his “ strain ” not only good, but improving. There 
are also many that the farmer and amateur gardener 
should save ; but with those kinds that are readily 
“mixed” or modified, such as melons, the kinds 
can only be kept true by planting the sorts at a 
distance from others, which cau not be done in 
small gardens. 
Asparagus will only need to be kept clear of 
weeds. Should new beds be needed, gather the 
seeds as they ripen and sow at once, or in spring. 
Beans. —String-beans may be salted down for 
winter use. String and break the pods as for 
cooking, and pack in jars or firkins with alternate 
layers of salt and beans. Nip off the tops of the 
lima-beaus when they reach the top of the poles 
so as to hasten their maturity. 
Beets. —Thin and hoc often, and if there are 
spaces in the rows some of the thinnings may be 
used for filling up. The leaves should be cut back 
before setting the plants. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers. —Clear up after the 
early crop. Destroy the slugs and caterpillars if 
any make their appearance upon the late plants. 
Carrots. —Keep the ground loose between the 
rows, and thin out if too thick. 
Celery. —Set out plants in rich ground for late 
crops. The early crops should be earthed up. 
Corn. —Run the cultivator between the rows un¬ 
til the corn is too large to admit of it. As the 
early plantings are picked, cut the stalks and cure 
for winter fodder. 
Cucumbers. —Save the best and earliest fruit for 
seed. Gather for pickles as soon as of the desired 
size, and salt down. 
Egg-Plants. —Place straw or pieces of board 
around the plants to keep the fruit from touching 
the soil. Draw the earth around the stems, and 
keep the ground well cultivated. 
Lettuce. —Sow for fall crop in a shady place if 
possible, and when of siiitable size transplant to 
good, rich soil. 
Melons. —Turn the fruit occasionally as it ap¬ 
proaches maturity to insure a regular ripening. 
Remove all fruit not likely to ripen before frost. 
Onions. —Gather as soon as ripe; this will be 
shown by the tops falling over. After being thor¬ 
oughly dry, store in a dry, cool place, taking care 
not to lay them so thick that they will decay. 
Potatoes. —Where the ground has been cleared of 
the early crop, it may be plowed and sown with 
flat turnips or any quickly maturing crop. Pota¬ 
toes used in the fa ily are best if dug each day. 
Radish. —Sow Chinese Winter the last of the 
month for winter use. 
Squashes. —Cultivate as long as possible, and pull 
out all large weeds. Look out for insects, and de¬ 
stroy them. Let the vines root at the joints. 
Sweet-Potatoes. —Keep the vines from rooting at 
the joints, and hoe up all weeds. 
Tomatoes. —Tie up to stakes or trellises, and cut 
oft - all unnecessary growth. Destroy the “ Toma¬ 
to-worm” whenever found. 
Turnips. —Thin Ruta-bagas when large enough, 
and sow the round variety in vacant places. 
Flower-fiiardcsi au«l Laun. 
The most important consideration this month is 
weeds. It is easy to write—indeed we have written 
it—“ let not a weed be seen,” but how difficult it 
is to carry out the teaching. When we think a bed 
or border is perfectly clean, some rascally weed 
that has in its early stages sheltered itself under 
a plant will show its head in defiance. Not 
long ago wc visited a place that has the reputation 
of being the best kept of any in the country, and 
we must own to a malicious sort of satisfaction at 
finding here and there a weed. Weeds in flower¬ 
beds are not difficult to keep under, but 
Weeds in Lawns are a trouble. Frequent mowing 
soon disposes of the annual ones, and the perennials 
under this treatment, being generally broad-leaved, 
are so weakened that the grass soon crowds them 
out. In England they have a contrivance that lets 
down a few drops of sulphuric acid into the heart 
of a plantain or otRer weed, and is said to be effect¬ 
ive in exterminating them. 
Beds in Lawns must have the edges frequently 
cut or they will not be well defined and the grass 
roots will run in and injure the plants. A sharp 
spade run down deeper than the grass roots extend, 
is the best implement for trimming. The beauty of 
Ribbon Planting or any other ornamental work ol 
the kind depends upon keeping the colors in well- 
defined lines. The plants as they grow will en¬ 
croach one upon another, and unless the knife be 
freely used the effect of the contrast of distinct 
colors will be lost. 
Dahlias are largely stick and string, for if not 
kept well supported they will break down just at 
the time when they ought to bloom. It is often 
necessary besides the main stake to supply smaller 
stakes to the larger branches. 
Chrysanthemums should not be neglected during 
the summer. Pinch into shape, and keep clear of 
insects. Caterpillars and plant-lice will do much 
injury if not prevented. 
Roses. —The Chinas and Teas arc to be cut back as 
fast as they bloom. The Remontants will often 
flower in fall if the plants have not been weakened 
by the depredations of insects. 
Fuchsias do best in a paytial shade, and are more 
satisfactory grown in pots upon a veranda than 
when bedded out. They must not be allowed to 
suffer from dryness. Cuttings of the young shoots 
root very readily. 
Gladioluses will need stakes to their flower stems 
or they are apt to bend with their own weight and 
grow crooked. As soon as a spike is out of flower 
cut it away. The same remark applies to 
Lilies which are especially apt to become top- 
heavy. They are subject to attacks of a small 
white caterpillar that eats the underside of the 
leaves. We have never found them too numerous 
to remove by hand-picking. 
Seeds should always be saved from the choicest 
flowers, and all clusters not wanted for seed should 
be removed as soon as their beauty has passed. 
