A Noble Sea Game. 
: 53 
thundering clamour, and roared its mile-line 
length towards us. Struggling hard to keep 
our feet on the slippery coral against the swift 
back-wash, we waited till the white wall of hissing 
foam was five feet away, and then flung ourselves 
forward flat' upon our boards. Oh, how can 
one describe the ecstatic feeling that follows 
as your feet go up and your head and shoulders 
down, and you seem to fly through the water 
with the spume and froth of the mighty roller 
playing about your hair and hissing and singing 
in your ears ? Half a mile away lies the beach, 
but you cannot see it, only the plumed crowns 
of the palms swaying to and fro in the breeze ; 
for your head is low down, and there is nothing 
visible but a wavering line of shaking green. 
Perhaps, if you are adept enough to turn your 
head to right or left, you will see silhouetted 
against the snowy wall of foam scores and 
scores of black heads, and then before you 
can draw your breath from excitement the beach 
is before you, and you slip off your board as 
the wave that has carried you so gloriously 
in sweeps far up on the shore, amid the vines 
and creepers which enwrap the sea-laved roots 
of the coco-palms. 
