48 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 20, 1893, 
improvement by crossing, this ending in spoiling many fruits through 
inferiority of variety ; but in most instances the shortcomings 
are due to the late exhausting weather and exhausted plants. 
The roots have failed to supply adequate nutriment, and the leaves 
failed to manufacture and secrete the requisite juices for the 
development of high-class fruit. Insects have, in too many cases, 
enjoyed what the plants needed, and when these abound well fed 
highly flavoured Melons or any other fruits are out of the question. 
Now that rain has come it is hoped that many insects will go. 
This will certainly be the case outside, and therefore suggests the 
way they may be banished from under glass, as they should be and 
must be if cultural success is to be attained. 
The hot season has proclaimed with trumpet tongue the value 
of high culture—deep rich soil and cleanliness. From Land’s 
End to John o’ Groat’s the crops tell the same significant story— 
land starvation and neglect leading to ruin ; land enrichment and 
high management tending directly in the other direction, the crops 
holding out the longest and yielding the best. There is no exception 
to the advantages of sound culture, and as in the open air so under 
glass, the best work tells and the best men win, not at shows alone, 
for that is a comparatively small matter, but reputations at home by 
their industry and skill. We want more of such winners, in many 
fields especially, as well as in some gardens, alike in the interests of 
the producers and the increased prosperity of the country. 
PREPARING FOR THE WINTER. 
Owing to the abnormally dry weather experienced during the 
present season the work of planting vegetables in their winter 
quarters has been, in many instances, greatly delayed. Now, how¬ 
ever, showers have become general all over the country the work 
should be completed as quickly as possible, otherwise the plants 
will have but a short season of growth. Those that were early 
planted have not made much progress this season, except in the 
very few instances in which they have been copiously supplied with 
water, or when a mulching of short manure or leaf soil has been 
given. The advantages to be derived by carrying out the latter 
practice with garden crops generally, has, this season, been strikingly 
demonstrated, and in all instances where the soil is light or shallow 
I strongly advised a mulching to be given now if possible, because 
the rapid and long continued evaporation has extracted a vast 
amount of fertility from the soil. 
To make up for this deficiency a thorough soaking with liquid 
manure given to all established plants before the mulching is put 
on will be found extremely beneficial, but there should be no 
mistake as to what is meant by a “ thorough soaking.” Three 
gallons to a square yard may be considered as such, and be 
depended upon to moisten the soil down to the roots of the 
plants. The drainings from stables, piggeries, or the contents of 
other cesspools, will answer the purpose splendidly. Failing these 
natural fertilisers, a pound of superphosphate of lime with half 
a pound of nitrate of soda, mixed in twenty gallons of water, 
makes a good liquid manure, so does 2 lbs. of guano dissolved in 
thirty gallons of water, or a peck of soot placed in a muslin bag 
and steeped in the same quantity of water. A little timely 
attention given to these matters will speedily have a marked effect 
upon all crops, and by encouraging early growth the chances of 
suffering loss during severe winters is greatly lessened. 
Turning to those crops which have yet to be planted, it is well 
to set out good breadths of the various kinds of Kales and Cole- 
worts which have proved hardy during recent winters. Foremost 
among these may be mentioned Asparagus Kale, which has been 
quite a “ sheet anchor ” in numerous gardens during the spring 
months, at a time when the loss of Broccoli have been much felt. 
This fine Kale also possesses the rare quality of having a delicious 
flavour when cooked. At this late season, if the rows are 2 feet 
apart, the plants will not require to be more than 15 inches 
asunder in the rows, or if set between the early Potatoes now 
being taken up, the distance between the lines may be a trifle less 
to correspond with spaces between the Potatoes. When planted 
between late Potatoes I prefer to lay the haulms in the centre of 
alternate alleys, set the Kales (in those thus cleared) a foot apart, 
and as soon as the tubers have been lifted take up with a spade 
every other plant, and replant in the centre of the intermediate 
spaces. Late Dwarf Green Curled is another invaluable Kale 
suitable for planting largely at the present time ; with us during 
the last two seasons it has supplied tender greens up to the time 
that Cabbage could be cut in quantity. It requires about the same 
space as Asparagus Kale. Late Queen Broccoli ought now to be 
of the right size for planting. Taking a lesson from the experience 
of last season we are this year depending largely upon this variety 
and Leamington, though of course plants of the latter have 
already been planted. If the former are set out in rows 2 feet 
apart, a distance of 6 inches less between the plants will be found 
sufficient. Rosette Colewort and Little Pixie always prove 
exceedingly useful during the autumn months. We have now a 
good bed of these from sowings made early in June, and the plants 
will be set out shortly a foot apart in good rich soil. Plants 
resulting from sowings made late in June will also prove useful, but 
it will be a great advantage in their case to plant on a warm 
border. 
Thus far I have dealt especially with those crops which are 
particularly adapted for late planting. Where, however, other 
varieties of Borecoles and Coleworts, which, during ordinary 
seasons are put out at a much earlier date, are not yet planted into 
their permanent position, the work may still be done with the 
prospect of securing a fair amount of success, though, as a matter 
of course, they will not make such strong growth unless we are 
favoured with an exceptionally warm autumn. Cottagers’ Kale, 
Sprouting Broccoli, Chou de Burghley, Brussels Sprouts, and 
Couve Tronchuda are all good varieties to which the foregoing 
remarks apply. 
Before lifting the plants the soil about the roots should be 
thoroughly moistened. If they have been previously pricked out 
they may then be lifted with good balls of earth, and will under 
such favourable circumstances experience but little check. When 
they have to be planted direct from the seed bed it is a good 
plan to dip the roots in a puddle made of clay sufficiently thick 
to adhere to them ; this frequently wards off the attacks of 
grubs, which often make sad havoc with plants destitute of small 
fibrous roots. For the convenience of watering the plants should 
be set in drills, and a slight hollow left around the stem of each 
plant.—H. D. 
STRAWBERRY FARMING. 
To market gardeners and allotment holders who contemplate 
starting a Strawberry patch due consideration and care at the 
outset go far towards future success. Assuming that the land is 
suitable in aspect and in accordance with the remarks in my last 
contribution (page 5) we can pass on to the preparation of the bed 
for the plants. Now is a splendid time for beginning operations. 
The early Potatoes are coming off, and the land can be easily and 
effectually cleaned. This is of paramount importance when we 
remember that the plants are to stand for four or five years. The 
man who ensures a perfectly clean, deeply cultivated plot, with rich 
supplies of good farmyard manure well dug in, need have little 
fear. 
The plants for the production of marketable fruit must be 
hardy, good croppers, producing berries of good size, shape, and 
flavour. There are at least three capital varieties, which answer in 
almost every particular to this description—viz.. Sir Joseph 
Paxton, Laxton’s Noble, and Dr. Hogg ; and any grower could 
not go far wrong in selecting all or any of these. The two former 
are at present mostly grown in the Hampshire and Surrey fields, 
but I believe there is a grand future for the latter, for I saw a 
fortnight ago at a local show two dozen berries of the Dr. Hogg 
variety which weighed 1 lb. 10^ ozs., and were of exquisite colour, 
shape, and flavour. If either of these varieties is chosen, plenty 
of space must be given for development, as all are very gross, 
and should not be closer than about 30 inches in the rank and 
18-22 inches (I prefer 22) between the plants. After planting, 
little more than keeping down weeds and pinching off runners 
need be done ; the latter is essential, in order to enable the young 
plants to get strong before the frosts set in. 
The hoe must be kept at work throughout the spring. Many 
people pluck the first blooms so that the plants shall not fruit the 
first season, but this mode of procedure is not advisable. There 
may be a gain in constitutional strength, but under any conditions 
the plant will throw two or three new crowns in one season, and 
it is from these new crowns that we expect our fruit. In fact, 
the largest and best trusses of fruit always grow centrifugal. 
Besides, “ a bird in the hand ” is applicable here, and two medium 
crops with some immediate returns are preferable. As the young 
plants often give the earliest and finest fruit they therefore pay 
for a little bedding. Light straw, short rushes, coarse grass, in 
short anything which does not contain seeds, is suitable for the 
purpose, and should be well laid as soon as the Strawberries reach 
the size of marbles. If it can be spread soon after a good rain 
