July 20, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
65 
Plants in frames should be sprinkled at closing time during the swelling 
of the fruit, but on fine days only, being careful to keep the water 
from the neck or collar of the plants. 
Ventilating .—Daring the setting and ripening of the fruit admit air 
freely, leaving a little on constantly to prevent the deposition of 
moisture on the blossoms or fruits through the night. Give more venti¬ 
lation early in the morning of bright days, always when the temperature 
has advanced to 75°, and gradually increase it with the advancing heat, 
keeping through the day at 80° to 90°, and closing sufficiently early to 
rise to 90°, 95° or 100°, and before nightfall admit a chink of air at the 
top of the house or the back of the frame. This is particularly necessary 
in closely fitting and glazed structures, in badly constructed houses night 
ventilation may be dispensed with. 
Temperature .—Resource will only need to be had to fire heat in 
houses and to linings for frames in dull cold periods, then a little 
artificial heat is desirable to maintain a buoyant atmosphere when the 
blossoms are setting and the fruit is ripening, otherwise the temperature 
will be ruled at this season by external influences. A night temperature 
of 65° and 70° to 75° by day must be given to plants in houses. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Carnations.— If not already done a mulching of old Mushroom-bed 
manure or leaf soil should be given Carnations after very lightly 
loosening the surface, and giving a good watering. This will serve to 
prolong the display considerably. The Margaret Carnations, if raised 
moderately early and duly planted out, will flower strongly in August or 
September, though not if they are topped ; give these also the benefit of 
a mulch. 
Propagating- Carnations. —If the smaller side shoots are slipped 
off now these will strike quite as readily as Pinks in a frame or hand- 
lights placed at the foot of a north wall or fence. In warm moist 
localities bottom heat may be dispensed with, but a very slight hotbed 
is of good assistance. Pack enough material inside the frames to raise 
about 4 inches of loamy gritty soil well up to the light, and face over 
with sharp sand. Little or no trimming is required by short slips, but 
longer cuttings or any upwards of 4 inches in length should be shortened, 
not however, by cutting with a knife, the better plan being to pull them 
cleanly apart at a joint. Fix them firmly in the soil, give a gentls 
watering, and keep close and shaded from what bright sunshine reaches 
the frame till rooted. 
Saving Pink Seed. —Seed if ripe may be either stored till next 
spring, or else be sown at once. When quite new yet properly ripened 
it germinates quickly either on a well prepared border or in boxes set in 
a cool shady position. If not sown very thickly neat little plants will 
be formed before the winter arrives, those in boxes being kept in cool 
frames. Mrs. Sinkins, and varieties raised from that robust popular 
form, come quite true from seed, and young plants partaking somewhat 
of a perpetual flowering character are more likely to flower the same 
season they are planted out than are the more delicate varieties. 
Hollyhocks. —Red spider can be destroyed by mixing a handful 
of flowers of sulphur into a paste and then mix it with two gallons of 
clear water, and with a syringe thoroughly wet both the under and 
upper surface of the leaves. Black fly is also unusually prevalent on 
Hollyhocks, and this may be got rid ot by means of tobacco powder or 
strong snuff, puffing this well over the under side of the leaves. No 
side shoots should be allowed to grow on any of the plants. They 
ought to be kept well supplied with moisture at the roots, and be given 
a mulching of short manure. If leaf buds are found at the axils of the 
leaves of any side shoots removed, the latter may be cut into short 
lengths, placed singly in small pots, and rooted in a gentle but not very 
moist heat. All that develop into plants should be shifted into larger 
pots before they become much root-bound. 
Dahlias. —Old stools push up very many more shoots than should 
be left to grow, much better results following upon the practice of 
confining the plants to a single stem, or at the most two stems. These 
being kept properly secured to a strong stake, will branch strongly and 
produce either a few extra fine blooms for exhibition purposes, or an 
abundance of ordinary good flowers. If the former are desired about 
four stakes should be placed to each plant, and some of the best placed 
branches be fastened to these, the rest being cut away or better still 
early pinched out. Dahlias require abundance of moisture at the roots, 
a good mulch of strawy litter further serving to keep the ground cool 
and moist. 
Gladioli. — Stakes should be placed to these before the spikes 
become heavy, frequent syringings and waterings also being necessary 
if fine spikes and large flowers are desired. In order to have the spikes 
for exhibition with the flowers well together and all facing one way 
they ought to be enclosed in a V-shaped trough, made by nailing two 
long thin pieces of board about 4 inches wide to a strong stake. With 
the aid of these troughs it will also be an easy matter to shade the 
lower flowers with newspaper, with a view to keep them fresh and of 
good colour to match the upper flowers. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Hpacrls. —Give these full sunshine and abundance of air, so that 
their wood will become thoroughly ripened, which is necessary to insure 
abundance of flowers. Also give a sufficient supply of water at their 
roots, or the lower foliage will soon turn yellow and fall. On the other 
hand do not allow the soil to become saturated by heavy rains. Old 
lights that can be placed over them when necessary is all the protection 
they need. E’-ica hyemalis may have the same treatment. 
Kalosanttaes.— Plants that have flowered should be cut close back 
and be placed in a frame until they break into growth, after which keep 
perfectly cool and wintered on a shelf in the greenhouse. Young 
shoots may be inserted singly or four or flve together in 5-inch pots, and 
if put in gentle warmth the cuttings root quickly. If they are to flower 
the following season they ought to be hardened when rooted, and either 
placed outside or on a shelf in the greenhouse. The growths should be 
well ripened, the object is to prevent them starting again into growth. If 
they make fresh growth while being rooted flowers need not be looked for 
until the plants have enjoyed one clear season’s growth. Where an 
increase of stock is needed the stems may be cut into lengths, for these 
root quickly and break freely into growth. 
French and Fancy Pelargoniums.— Cuttings that are rooted for 
early flowering should be placed into small pots at once and stood in 
frames until they start into growth. The points of the plants ought to 
be removed if not done when the cuttings were inserted. Cuttings for 
the main stock of young plants for another year should be inserted at 
once. They will root with freedom if put in sandy soil outside. We 
find this the easiest and most certain method of propagating these plants. 
Do not insert mere flower stems, older portions of the plant root freely 
and make much better plants. Plants that have been ripening on the 
walks for a few weeks may be cut close back and placed in a frame until 
they break into growth. Keep the frame moderately close and syringe 
the plants twice daily until they commence to grow, when the old soil 
may be shaken from their roots, and repot. Keep close for a time until 
root action has commenced, when the plants should be grown perfectly 
Gool. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Plants that are growing outside and are 
intended for autumn and winter flowering should have the flower trusses 
removed as they appear and any shoots stopped that are taking the lead. 
If the pots are well filled with roots give weak stimulants every time 
they need water, or artificial manure may be given to the surface of the 
soil at intervals of a fortnight. The plants should be fully exposed to 
the sun, and firm sturdy growth must be encouraged. Plants that have 
been flowering inside and have grown leggy may be cut back. If started 
in frames and grown under glass these will make excellent flowering 
plants during the winter. The cuttings from these plants may be 
inserted in boxes, or in borders outside, and when rooted placed into 
small pots. These will flower in 5-inch pots during the early spring 
months. Cuttings that are rooted may be placed into 3-inch pots, and if 
stood outside when established will flower profusely under glass 
during the declining months of the year. The points of these plants 
may be removed, and then they should be allowed to grow on without 
further pinching. 
Solanums.— Plants that have set a good crop of berries should be 
watered freely. If once they are allowed to become dry the foliage will 
turn yellow and the beauty of the plants will be destroyed. Soot water 
assists them wonderfully and imparts to the foliage a fine dark hue. 
These plants may be plunged outside in ashes. The syringe should be 
used freely to keep the foliage free from red spider. 
IS 
m BEE-KEEPBR. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
At THE Moors. 
As much information regarding the management of bees is 
gleaned at the moors, I will, according to my custom in previous 
years, record what comes under my observation. Owing to the 
continued heat and dry weather there is the most profuse bloom 
on the Heather that I have ever witnessed. 
On July 1st I took one prime swarm, an old Punic stock not rid 
of its surplus queens, and a number of nuclei. Owing to some 
oversight or an accident on the way, there was a small opening in 
one of the boxes sufficient for bees to escape, but wherever we 
were they returned to the box, even when moving along. When 
discovered of course I stopped the hole, shutting out two bees. 
The day was fine and warm, and on my return, three hours after¬ 
wards, the escaped bees met me at the place they were shut out, 
accompanying me to the station, a distance of one and a half mile. 
Had I travelled the other way the bees would I have no doubt 
found their hive. The moment the old stock was opened, although 
it had previously swarmed and been divided into eight, it threw 
off another swarm, and I have reasons for believing it was not 
the last one. The prime swarm was a strong one, and only a 
week old. Although subjected to rough treatment in the 
conveyance, no combs were broken. Some of the Punic surplus 
queens entered this hive, and in eight days after it was set down 
it swarmed at a distance of two miles, and was hived in a tool-box 
upon the railway. In the course of a week the nuclei filled their 
boxes with combs, and the prime swarm increased in weight 
20 lbs., while all the queens were fertilised, and every available 
cell filled with eggs and larvae a few days after. 
On July 11th we started in the morning with sixty hives. 
