112 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 3, 1898. 
Tomatoes Diseased (J.. A. B .').—The specimens did not arrive 
in time for the requisite examination being made for the purpose of 
reply in the present issue. The case shall have attention. 
Wlreworms In Vine Border (J. J .').—These not easily destroyed 
pests are no doubt injuring your Vines. Pursue sedulously your practice 
of inserting baits of Potatoes and Carrots, withdrawing them frequently 
for securing the depredators. We have known squares of fresh turf 
buried in the soil even more effectual than the roots mentioned. 
We have heard that sowing Mustard seed on wireworm - infested 
land and allowing the plants to grow has in some mysterious way 
acted beneficially, but catching the pests is the most certain mode of 
riddance. 
Cucumbers Falling (^Hampshire ').—The disease in the roots is 
caused by minute nematoid worms, and they may be communicated 
with soil, manure, or water. We fear your plants are beyond 
recovery. Heating the soil to 212° destroys parasitic germs. An 
experienced cultivator has found that practice, then mixing with 
each bushel of the soil a pint each of steamed bonemeal and soot, 
and a quart of wood ashes, keep his plants in health and free 
from this destructive visitation. Every part of the house should 
be thoroughly cleansed, floors and walls of'the pit washed with hot 
lime. You do not say, however, whether the plants are grown in pits 
or frames. 
Potatoes for IVKontevldeo {Quintero ).—It would be impossible 
for anyone to name a solitary variety as the best for your purpose. 
Possibly you are right in assuming that early varieties may answer the 
best in sandy soil because of the risk of drought more prejudicially 
affecting the later crops. Even in this country the best varieties for 
particular soils and localities can only be ascertained by experiment, 
and so it must be in your case. Potatoes of American origin would be 
likely to answer the best, such as Early Puritan, Early Eose, Beauty of 
Hebron, Extra Early Vermont, and Charles Downing. Of good-sized 
tubers (and it would be a mistake to plant small ones) half a ton will be 
needed to plant an acre of land in rows 27 inches asunder and 12 to 
15 inches in the lines. We do not know of any small work on Ferns 
such as you appear to require. Possibly the Director of the Eoyal 
Gardens, Kew, might be able to advise you on the subject, and we are 
sure he would be willing to do so. 
Melon Xeaves Diseased {Subscribe?’). —Yes, the Melon leaf 
subjected to microscopic examination is “smothered” with a disease 
caused by a fungus-like creature allied to that which produces finger- 
and-toe in Turnips and clubroot in Cabbages. But it is higher specialised 
than that fungus (Plasmodiophora brasslcas), for, though this curious 
group of fungi, called Myxomycetes (to which finger-and-toe fungus 
belongs), have the power of movement by changing their forms, like the 
low microscopic animals called Amcebas, it possesses the power of 
locomotion in a higher degree, and is capable of attacking any part of 
the plant. The malignant bacteroidg causing disease in Melons, 
Cucumbers, and Vegetable Marrows sometimes attack the stem only, 
level with or within a foot of the ground, and the plants so attacked 
collapse as suddenly as those infested at the roots. But it may leave 
the roots and stem intact, fastening on the bines here and there, and 
causing a swelling, with sometimes an exudation, which is due to the 
ferment set up by the bacteria, and in other cases it may infest the 
leaves only. In the latter case the leaves are usually thick in texture 
and abnormally green and healthy in appearance, but this gives place to 
a jaundiced hue, and transparent yellow pustules appear on the upper 
surface. These soon shrink, forming specks, and the leaves turn rusty 
and collapse, the midribs and footstalks remaining intact; all the same, 
the plants die, apparently healthy at the roots, in the stems, and even 
bines. If the plants are examined they will be found to have no (or 
only small and discoloured) nitrogenic nodosities on the roots, which is 
a common case where fermenting materials are employed for bottom 
heat, and we may assume that the bacteroidg which convert free nitrogen 
into the form by which it can be assimilated by the plant are not pre^ 
sent. This is a vital point in proving that the presence and vitality 
of the micro-organisms which give rise to the root-tubercles is the indis¬ 
pensable factor by which atmospheric nitrogen is taken up and elaborated, 
It is still further necessary to show that the malignant bacteroids do not 
attack the roots, stem, bines, footstalks, and midribs of the leaves because 
they contain assimilated nitrogen. This is seen in the case under 
notice by the micro-organisms concentrating their forces on the parts 
where the free nitrogen enters the plant, which can only take place by 
the parts above ground, and most freely by the leaves. On examining 
the thinner tissue of the leaf, where the free nitrogen must enter most 
and freest, we found the stomata swollen and closed, and the hairs 
remarkably short, blunt, and stunted, whilst they were almost entirely 
wanting on the thicker portions. In the interior of the latter the 
bacteria were very abundant, but not so much so as to cause the sudden 
collapse or decay of the affected part, for there were some perfectly healthy 
cells, but most had been invaded, and we anticipate the drying up and 
falling away of those parts of the leaves as if scorched, leaving the mid¬ 
ribs and footstalks intact. The plants, however, will positively refuse 
to grow, though their roots and stems appear perfectly healthy, and they, 
with their fruit, gradually wither. The fruit ripens prematurely, and 
the seeds are for the most part very defective, if, indeed, they store 
sufficient matter to effect germination. The seeds, however, are not in 
any way affected by the bacterial affection, and the disease will not 
show itself in the progeny. It is not by any means a new disease, 
for it has been known in England more than a century, although 
diseases of this nature have only received the attention of bacteriologists 
within the last quarter of a century. 
Bones Becoming- Putrid and Maggotty In Cbrysantbemum 
Pots {W, A. M.). — This is a very common occurrence this season, 
many plants being ruined by the broken bones employed as drainage to 
the pots at the time of the final potting having become putrid, alive 
with maggots, and emitting a stench. The bones, though perfectly dry 
and in excellent condition when received, soon become decomposed 
when moistened because they have undergone a process of fermentation 
so as to render the gases they contain more readily available for the 
plants. Such bones, however, should never be used for drainage, nor, 
indeed, any bones, for all are liable to ferment and foster the develop¬ 
ment of maggots. It is different when the bones are mixed with the 
soil ; then the producers of the maggots cannot get at them, and the 
decomposition takes place much more gradually and they are likely to 
prove advantageous. There is nothing like a clean drainage composed of 
potsherds for Chrysanthemums. It is imperative to get rid of the bones, 
clearing every particle away, cleansing the pots, and using crocks only for 
drainage. The soil also that has not been occupied with roots should be 
removed, using fresh loam intermixed with lime rubbish and charcoal, 
as these, especially the old plaster, will have a tendency to sweeten the 
soil, and it will further be freed of sourness by watering the plants 
with tepid water in which 1 oz. of washing soda to 3 gallons has been 
dissolved. The sodic solution will saponify the fatty matter present in 
the soil, and this practice a large grower has found necessary to pursue 
with plants that were almost killed by indiscreetly using bones for 
drainage, which by the vendor were described as particularly strong. 
Arrangement of Grounds and Orchards {J. H. jF).—T he 
small kitchen garden, 47 yards by 16 yards, would, as the ground is 
heavy, be best occupied with half-standard Plums. They would come 
into bearing soon and be profitable in a few years ; plant in the 
autumn as soon as the leaves have fallen. The Czar, Belgian Purple, 
Prince Englebert, Gisborne’s, and Victoria are suitable varieties, with 
Crittenden and Bradley’s King Damsons. The spaces between the trees, 
which may be 15 feet apart, could be utilised with vegetables, or be 
temporarily planted with Strawberries or Gooseberries and other bush 
fruits. The drying ground must of course remain as it is, also the 43 by 
40 yards orchard, which, however, seems to have many vacant places, 
especially on the west and north sides, but these, we presume, you intend 
to fill up by the trees you name. The 80 by 38 yards meadow might be 
planted with fruit trees, employing standards if you wish to have the 
use of the grass ; but it is an undesirable practice unless the grass is 
eaten by calves or sheep, though it may be mown only. Manure is given 
after or before every crop, say not less than 20 tons of stable or farmyard 
manure each year. Apples would perhaps answer under such circum¬ 
stances, provided the soil is well drained, along with the hardier Pears. 
It would, however, be much the best broken up, properly prepared, and 
planted in the autumn with bush trees, as the choicer varieties would 
have a better chance. Mr. Gladstone. Duchess of Oldenburg, Worcester 
Pearmain, King of the Pippins, Cox’s Orange Pippin, Gascoigne’s Scarlet 
Seedling, and Baumann’s Eeinette are desirable dessert Apples; and 
for culinary, Keswick Codlin, Lord Grosvenor, Potts’ Seedling, Ecklin- 
ville. Queen, Peasgood’s Nonesuch, New Hawthornden, Golden Noble, 
Prince Bismarck, Lane’s Prince, and Bramley’s Seedling. They may 
be planted 6 feet apart, but unless root-pruned they would require 
thinning in about six years, leaving them 12 feet apart, or plant them 
that distance at the commencement, and crop with vegetables between. 
Of Pears, Beacon, Jargonelle, Williams’ Bon Chretien, Beurr^ d’Amanlis, 
Durondeau, Beurr4 Superfin, Pitmaston Duchess, Marechal de Cour, 
Emile d’Heyst, Doyenn4 du Comice, Beurrd d’Anjou, and Josephine de 
Malines. You may get shelter for these by planting the north side with 
Damson trees, also in the hedgerows, or by them, so as to break the force 
of winds. Of course trees can be planted in the 80 yards by 30 yards 
meadow on the grass, and they may be either Apples, Pears, or Plums as 
standards, and the hedgerows, except on the south, might be planted 
with Damson trees for shelter. Of the plans for the flower garden. No. 3 
is the most simple, and by enlarging the beds, most likely to meet your 
requirements. There certainly is more accommodation for plant* in 
No. 2, but Ferns are not likely to do any good on the south of the-house, 
though other plants would do well on the rockwork. The beds in No. 1 
are too near the house, where it is desirable to have grass next the gravel 
instead of bare earth—an everlasting eyesore. We cannot submit plans. 
Some good perennials are Adonis vernalis. Allium pedemontanum, 
Alyssum saxatile compactum, Alstromeria psittacina, Anthericum lilias- 
trum, Aquilegia glandulosa, Armeria plantaginea rosea, Aubrietia graeca 
superba, Calochortus luteus oculatus. Campanula aggregata, C. dahurica, 
C. glomerata alba, C. Van Houttei, Centaurea montana and var. alba, 
Convallaria majalis, Corydalis eximia, Delphinium nudicaule, Dianthus 
floribundus, Doronicum Clusi, Fuchsia pumila, Funkia lanceolata, 
Gentiana verna. Geranium Endressi, Geum Fremonti, Hemerocallis 
flava, Hepatica triloba vars., Hypericum calycinum. Iris germanica vars., 
I. orientalis. Lobelia fulgens, Lychnis dioica rubra plena, Mertensia 
sibirica. Narcissus Emperor, N. Empress, N. incomparabilis, N, poeticus 
ornatus and plenus, QSnothera Youngi, Pseonia arietina vars., Papaver 
nudicaule vars.. Phlox amoena, P. subulata vars., Polemonium Kichardi, 
Pulmonaria azurea. Ranunculus aconitifolius plenus, R. bullatus plenus, 
Saxifraga Camposi, Sedum spectabile, Spirrea japonica, Trollius euro- 
paeus, and Zauschneria californica. All are under, or not exceeding, 
2 feet in height, and do not need stakes, but you should add Pinks, 
double Primroses, Hellebores, Auriculas, Mimulus, Pansies, Violas, Violets, 
and single and double Pyrethrums, with bulbs to have a good display. 
