August SI, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
207 
oa the trees until dead ripe has the effect of the fruit losing its freshness, 
aroma, and flavour if stored. If gathered just on the turn, without 
injury, and kept in a cool dark place with the atmosphere pure and 
sweet, neither too dry nor damp, each specimen will finish well. 
Hints on Storlngr Trult.— Place Apples and Pears in the store¬ 
room in single layers on clean dry boards or shelves, from which they 
can absorb no taint or smell. Avoid laying fruit on straw of any kind, 
as the least mustiness in it will be attracted to the fruit. Clean white 
paper may be employed with advantage to cover shelves. With var¬ 
nished white wood shelves fitted in the fruit room there is little fear of 
fruit being injuriously affected. Common deal boards often contain 
turpentine. Plums to be kept for future use should be allowed to hang 
until perfectly ripe, then carefully gathered with the stalks intact, 
wrapped in tissue paper, and laid in a dry airy place in the fruit room. 
It is the late varieties which are chiefly stored to yield a succession as 
long as possible, but some weeks may elapse before it is needful to 
detach the fruit from the trees where it is desirable they should hang 
protected, in the case of very choice varieties, with gauze bags from the 
attacks of birds, wasps, and bluebottle flies. 
Protecting- Cbolce Fruit. —Specimens of any kind of soft fruit 
intended for any special purpose should be effectually secured against 
the attacks of birds and insects. The former may be kept at bay by the 
judicious use of nets, but for the latter other contrivances are necessary. 
The gauze bags referred to are the surest means of protection, while 
bottles of sweetened beer hung about the trees will attract and drown 
numbers of wasps and flies. Earwigs are often prevalent, soon doing 
much mischief. The only way of guarding against their depredations is 
to trap them in short lengths of bean stalks, examining the traps every 
morning, and blowing out the insects into hot water. Keep the sur¬ 
roundings of the trees clean, as earwigs, woodlice, and other marauders 
always accumulate among weeds and rubbish, especially if dry and 
partly decayed. 
Supporting Fruit Trees. —As trees are relieved of their crops 
some assistance may be necessary to aid the roots in perfecting the fruit 
buds for another season. Adequate moisture in the soil in which the 
principal fibrous roots ramify is the. first essential. Ked spider increases 
fast when the soil is deficient in this respect, and the leaves once over¬ 
run with this small, but troublesome pest their premature loss is certain, 
to the detriment of the fruit buds which derive their main support 
from healthy green foliage fully exposed to light and air. Further 
assistance being needed after the soil is properly moistened it may be 
afforded by applications of liquid manure. Weakly trees only should be 
treated to this. It will cause their buds to plump up better, and the 
growth generally to be strengthened. Trees already strong enough had 
better not be encouraged to make further growth. It may be advisable 
to restrict the rooting powers of such trees if fruitless, and this condition 
arises from excessive growth. 
Tblnnlng out Crowded Brandies. —This is the best period of the 
year for such operations. There is no advantage in having the interior 
of trees full of wood and foliage which cannot receive any light. Every 
superfluous branch is detrimental to fruitfulness. While the foliage is 
present on the trees a better idea can be formed of the exact distances 
branches require in order to fully receive and benefit by the full admis¬ 
sion of sunshine and air to every leaf and bud. 
Subduing American Bllgbt.— This is now very conspicuous on 
many Apple trees, and an attempt ought to be made to arrest its 
increase. Spirits of turpentine and petroleum are both effectual 
destroyers of the pest without injury to the trees if used judiciously. 
The application must not be heavy, only suflflcient to moisten the bristles 
of a paint-brush, then dabbing the insects and their fluffy covering with 
either spirits of turpentine or petroleum. The oil must not be allowed 
to run to waste down the stem, or saturate the bark. A portion of the 
loose downy substance can be collected on a saturated brush without 
touching the bark or stems at all to any extent. 
FRUIT FORCING!. 
Vines In Pots for Early Forcing.— Those intended for starting 
early in November should now be completely at rest, the wood 
thoroughly ripe, the laterals cut close back, and the canes shortened to 
about 6 feet—more or less, according to the length required for the 
position they are to occupy and the situation of the plump eyes. If the 
Vines are kept rather dry at the roots it reduces the tendency to 
bleeding, or the cuts when dry may be dressed with styptic or knotting. 
Do not allow the soil to become dust dry, for this causes the roots to 
shrivel, whilst a very wet condition may induce the decay of the fibres. 
Keep the Vines in a cool, airy house. Later Vines in pots may be 
placed outdoors to harden the growth and induce rest, the south side of 
a wall or fence being preferable. If Vines have to be bought they 
should now be ordered. The best for early forcing in pots are White 
Frontignan, Foster’s Seedling, Black Hamburgh, and Madresfield Court. 
Earliest House, —The earliest forced Vines—those started from early 
December to January—should now be pruned. It is not necessary to 
wait until all the leaves have fallen if the Vines are going to rest—the 
wood brown and hard and the leaves turning yellow ; the pruning 
will cause the Vines to rest more quickly and thoroughly. All the 
loose bark should be removed, washing the rods with clear rain water 
and afterwards with an insecticide or a solution of softsoap, 4 ozs. to a 
gallon of water. If there be any scale or mealy bug add half a wine- 
glassful of petroleum and half an ounce of washing soda to the solution, 
and keep it well mixed whilst being applied with a brush to reach 
every hole, angle, and crevice. Before dressing the Vines the woodwork 
should have been cleansed with softsoap and water, the glass with clear 
water, and the walls limewashed. Top-dress the borders both inside and 
outside, clearing away the old mulching material and the loose surface 
soil first; then supply fresh turfy loam, with a 9-inch potful of bone- 
meal and double that quantity of wood ashes to every 3 bushels of loam, 
and make firm. Weakly Vines, or those in an unsatisfactory state, will 
be improved by removing the soil down to the roots and supplying 
fresh turfy loam with an admixture of a sixth of old mortar rubbish 
and a sprinkling of bonemeal and wood ashes, lifting any roots avail¬ 
able for the purpose, and laying them out in fresh material within 
6 inches of the surface. This, however, is best done before the leaves 
have fallen. Comparative dryness is desirable, but excessive drought 
weakens, if not destroys, the young roots, and a sodden soil causes their 
decay. Outside borders should have a covering of some kind to protect 
them from the heavy autumn rains, which reduce the temperature 
considerably. Glass lights are much the best, as they throw off the rain 
whilst allowing the sun to warm the soil. These not being available, 
and they need only be used in the case of heavy rains, a covering of 
leaves and litter will be necessary after the weather sets in cold. i 
Late Grapes, —Continue a night temperature of 65° and 70° to 75° 
by day artificially, with 80° to 85° from sun, until the Grapes are 
perfectly ripe, ventilating freely and keeping lateral growths closely 
stopped, a warm atmosphere with a free circulation of air being essential 
to thorough ripening. Laterals allowed to grow only excite root action, 
and this encourages late growth. Material for covering the borders 
should be held in readiness, for late Grapes keep much better when the 
roots are not chilled by the autumn rains. Tarpaulin, shutters, or 
thatched hurdles can be used for this purpose when required. 
Young Vines. —These generally make a strong growth, and are con¬ 
sequently late in ripening. Such should be assisted with fire heat, 
maintaining a minimum temperature of 65° and a maximum of 75° 
from fire heat, running up to 85° to 90° from sun heat, accompanying 
the artificial heat with a little top and bottom ventilation so as to insure 
a circulation, increasing it proportionately with the sun heat. Laterals 
also should be kept well in hand, not, however, pinching them so close 
as to start the principal buds. 
Cucumbers.— Earlier closing and syringing is necessitated by the 
shorter and colder days, it being desirable to husband the sun heat and 
have the foliage fairly dry before dusk. Employ fire heat to maintain a 
temperature of 70° to 75° by day and to secure 65° at night. Keep the 
shoots thin, remove old growths to make room for young ones, and so 
insure a succession of bearing wood. Stop young shoots a joint beyond 
the fruit. Encourage root action by a steady bottom heat of 80°, surface 
dressings of lumpy loam and sweetened horse droppings, and afford tepid 
liquid manure whenever water is required. Do not allow the fruit to 
hang after it becomes fit for use, and avoid overcropping. 
Autumn-fruiting Plants. —Stop the growths so as to insure an 
even spread of bearing wood. Remove the staminate blossoms and 
tendrils, also the first fruits. No shading will now be necessary. Cease 
syringing the plants in the morning, and only practise it lightly on bright 
afternoons, keeping the house damped as occasion requires. Admit air 
early but moderately, avoiding draughts, for chills stunt the growths, 
and a confined atmosphere causes the foliage to become thin and flabby. 
Endeavour to secure a sturdy growth whilst opportunity offers by early 
and judicious ventilation. 
Winter-fruiting Plants, —The plants from seed sown early in August 
are now fit to place in their fruiting quarters. The house must be a light 
one, have a south aspect, and means of securing a temperature of 65° to 
70° in all weathers. A bottom heat of 80° to 90° is also necessary. All 
soil previously used must be cleared out, and the whole of the interior 
of the house scalded, if possible, with hot water, washing the woodwork 
with softsoap, water, and a brush, making the glass clean, and lime¬ 
washing the walls. Where rubble is used over and about the pipes for 
bottom heat see that it is clean ; if not, take it out and cleanse it by 
washing. Secure the drainage with a layer of turves, slightly charred, 
grass side downwards. Place in hillocks or ridges of sod of about 2 feet 
base, 10 or 12 inches depth, and 1 foot across at top. Use turfy loam 
of medium texture two-thirds, fibrous sandy peat one-third, rejecting 
any woody matter, old mortar rubbish freed of laths or pieces of wood, 
with the rough broken small one-sixth, and nut charcoal one-twelfth, the 
whole well incorporated. This material is equally suitable for plants in 
beds, pots, or boxes, and should be made moderately firm. Pots or 
boxes must be well drained, and only so far fille 1 with soil that when 
the plants are introduced their seed leaves will be about level with the rims 
of the pots, and as they will have some stem below the seed leaves which 
will admit of earthing as the plants increase in growth. Very serviceable 
fruits can be had from plants in pots or boxes in houses with a stove 
temperature, training the growths so that their leaves will be clear of the 
glass. Plant when the soil is warmed through, press it gently, and 
secure the plants to stakes reaching to the trellis. Rub off the laterals 
to that height, and stop the leading shoot at about the second or third 
wire of the trellis. Shade from bright sun until established. Syringe 
lightly in the early afternoon, damp the house in the morning, noon, 
and afternoon. Maintain a day temperature of 70° to 75?, rising 10° 
to 15° from sun heat, and a night temperature of 70°, falling 5° through 
the night. The plants will give fruit in the late autumn, but they must 
not be cropped much if they are to produce a crop from Christmas 
to spring. 
Seed may now be sown for raising plants to give a supply of 
fruit about Christmas and onwards. Telegraph is still one of the best 
varieties. Place the seed singly in 3-inch pots a little more than halt 
