208 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 31, 1893. 
filled with soil, and cover half an inch deep. A pane of glass over each 
pot will bring up the plants quickly ; remove it as soon as they appear 
above the soil, and keep well up to the glass. Barth up the plants as 
they require it, and transfer to 5-inch pots when they need a shift, 
placing a stick to each, to which secure the plant as it grows. Rub off 
laterals as they show, and train with a single shoot. The plants will be 
fit to place out during the first fortnight of October. 
Pits and Frames. —The growths in these will need to be kept thin as 
a safeguard against damp, and watering must be done early and with 
care and judgment, as cold and damp are disastrous to Cucumbers late in 
the season. The plants will need very little water after this, as the 
roots get enough moisture through the decay of the fermenting materials. 
They must not, however, be allowed to flag, and a light sprinkling may 
be given occasionally at closing time. Line the beds with stable litter, 
and admit a little air at the back to allow of any steam escaping. The 
temperature should be kept at about 65° at night, employing a covering 
of mats over the lights on cold nights. With due attention to the linings 
and covering Cucumbers will be obtained from these structures for some 
weeks to come. 
Strawberries In Pots. —Any plants not yet in their fruiting pots 
should be given them without delay. Placed in 5 or 6-inch pots, according 
to the size of the plants, they will fill them with roots before the winter, 
and though not so large as those potted earlier, will give some fine fruit, 
if they are not started before February. Plants potted some time ago 
should be examined, and if making side buds these ought to be removed 
with a pointed piece of hard wood, so as to throw the vigour into the 
central crown or bud. Vigorous plants will not require liquid manure, 
but weakly ones may be supplied with it twice a week. All runners 
must be removed as they appear, also weeds. If the surface of the soil 
becomes hard loosen it, especially at the sides of the pots, so as to 
ensure the thorough moistening of the ball. As the plants grow set 
the pots farther apart so as to expose the foliage to light. 
BI)E-KE)EPBR. 
. . . , . . 1 . , ., . 1 .1. 1 :r-r.;i -7-1 - I -f. | | . iT r.-'l 
h 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Bees at the Moors. 
We have now at the time of writing reached August 28 th, and 
the morning dawned the pleasantest I have witnessed since I came 
on the moors. Ice was as thick as a shilling, and every green 
thing stiff and white as at midwinter. The rain four days previous 
to the 26 th completely washed the honey out of and spoiled some 
Heather, but there still remains a great quantity of it in fair 
order, but all is past lower down the hills. The long continuation 
of the bloom here gives us bee-keepers an advantage over those 
where it is warmer and the Heather naturally earlier but shorter in 
duration. 
Owing to the prolonged spell of stormy weather during the 
best of the Heather bloom the yield of honey is not' so great as it 
might have been, but on the whole is fairly good ; and now with 
the improved weather at the end more may be added. It is rather 
singular to witness honey gathering, swarming, and frosty weather 
at same time, but experience gives confidence, and is more reliable 
and valuable than theory. 
From one hive there has been an increase of eleven, while other 
four have been frustrated, making sixteen in all had they been 
allowed. As my time is limited, further particulars I will hold 
over till later on, when I will give them in a concise form for the 
benefit of beginners ; and, I may add, for modern bee-keepers in 
general.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
Preparing for Winter. 
Those who already possess stocks must, unless the bees are 
taken to the moors, at once begin to prepare for winter ; each 
stock must be fed up to a sufficient weight, and if need be 
strengthened by an addition of driven bees, in accordance with the 
instructions given in these columns, and then when every attention 
has been paid to these salient points the less the bees are disturbed 
until March next the better it will be for the stocks. If it is 
desired to ruin a stock late feeding and continued manipulation in 
the late autumn will soon do its deadly work ; but if strong, 
prosperous colonies are desired that can be had with as little 
trouble and not much more expense than starveling stocks, which, 
dragging on a weary existence through the winter, are a discredit to 
any bee-keeper, and a sign of lamentable slothfulness and neglect. 
Bees must be kept strong, and the fact can never be too often 
impressed upon bee-keepers in general, and some in particular, 
that one strong stock is of more value than three weak ones, and 
with less time expended on it in the way of manipulation will 
give greater results than the three weak ones put together. 
True, in exceptional cases a weak stock does in spring make 
a rapid advance, but this is only by way of exception owing 
to a young and vigorous queen ; but even this rapid progress 
is not in the same ratio as that which a strong stock, headed 
by an equally good queen, would make under the same circum¬ 
stances.—F. - 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Dobie & Dicks, 66, Deansgate, Manchester.— Dutch Bulis. 
James Douglas, Edenside, Great Bookham, Surrey.— Catalogue of 
Carnations, Picotees, and Auriculas. 
C. Turner, Royal Nursery, Slough.— Hyacinths, Narcissus, Tulips, 
R. Veitch & Son, High Street, Exeter.— Dutch Bulls, ^'C. 
•,j*All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Wasps (<S. A).—If you consult the last few issues of the Journal 
of Horticulture you will, we think, find recorded all the known 
remedies for destroying wasps ; but after all that is done the plague 
continues, and each fruit grower must adopt the best local measures 
available for saving his fruit. There is no universal panacea, any more 
than there is for ridding the world of flies and various insect pests. 
Glands on Peacb Iieaves (^Ignoramus'). —The glands are minute 
wart-like growths at the extreme base of the leaves, and in some 
instances are round and in others kidney shaped. In some varieties of 
Peaches and Nectarines the glands are visible enough, in others more 
or less obscure, while a few are glandless. Examine a number of leaves 
of different varieties closely, and your eye will soon become educated on 
the subject of glands. 
Exhibiting^ Shallots (H. Bell). —You ask if the Shallot is a 
vegetable on the ground that “ a friend was disqualified because he 
placed a dish consisting of one variety in a collection of vegetables.” 
We have many times intimated that the schedules of shows should 
accompany questions of this nature, in order that we may see the 
precise conditions under which exhibits must be staged. Of course the 
Shallot is a vegetable, but all the same, may not be admissible in 
certain classes, according to special stipulations which, if ignored, 
might result in disqualification. 
Grapes Shanklngr after Rlpenlngr (B. C. N.). —There is such a 
thing as Grapes shanking after they are ripe, both when they are 
hanging on the Vines whilst these are in leaf, and after the Grapes 
have been bottled and placed in the Grape room. One form of shanking 
is caused by a micrococcus, and produces an enlarged or ulcered con¬ 
dition of the footstalk prior to the shanking, and it is likely that 
shrinkage of the footstalk without the ulceration may be caused by the 
same micro-organism, but this is as yet undetermined, and in fact, no 
malignant bodies have been discovered in the wire-like shanked footstalks. 
Nectarines Shrlvelllngr (Cestria). —The shrinking generally 
occurs at the apex, and is rather common with the fruits borne by 
young or vigorous trees, and the fruit partakes more or less of the 
nature of the growth. When such fruits ripen the watery matter is 
dissipated, and as this is most abundant where the swelling has 
been greatest they shrivel. The shrinkage is generally confined 
to Nectarines, Peaches under the same conditions being little 
affected, as they retain more of the watery matter in ripening, and 
the evaporation takes place more evenly through their having downy 
skins. The fruits affected are not really a defect of culture. Perhaps 
a slight shade in very bright weather would have prevented the 
shrinking ; but the best preventive is plenty of air, taking care not 
to over-feed the trees. 
Clematis Falling: (Tom Ridley). —We have examined all the 
sprays you forwarded, and have been unable to find any parasite likely 
to cause the appearance presented by No. 3 spray. No. 2 is, as you say, 
“ beginning to go,” but you have not sent that part where the mischief 
begins, and the collapse of the portion above the seat of the malady is 
only a question of a few days and sometimes hours. No. 1 is healthy ; 
in fact, all the sprays are free from malignant micro-organisms, for, as 
before stated, the attacked parts have not been sent. This is sometimes 
situated on the stem and at the node or joint next the root on which the 
variety is grafted, then the plant collapses altogether, and often the same 
year as planted. But the attack is generally confined to the base of the 
annual growths where they spring from the preceding year’s wood, and 
