September 7, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDE NEIL 
211 
P LUMS generally are more impatient of a forcing atmosphere 
than any other stone fruit. This, however, does not pre¬ 
clude the successful cultivation of the choicer varieties under 
glass, for with properly constructed and well managed houses 
Plums of the highest excellence may be readily obtained. Lean-to 
structures erected against south-east, south, or south-west walls 
answer admirably, provided they are well ventilated, the border 
thoroughly drained, and adequate supplies of water given the 
trees. The side and top lights should open the whole length of 
the house, and the roof lights be moveable. Cases 6 feet in width 
will accommodate trees on walls and others on a low trellis in front, 
say to the extent of one-third the distance up the sloping roof. 
The front trees may be trained as cordons, and, duly restricted at 
the roots, they bear abundantly. This plan, however, is not so 
good as training half standard trees to a trellis fixed 9 to 12 inches 
from the glass, the stems being the height of the front lights. Less 
space is afforded by this method, but the fruit attains to greater 
perfection and is more abundant than on trees trained to the wall. 
When the house is 10 feet or more in width, bush, pyramid, or 
low-stemmed trees with round heads may be grown with great 
advantage in front, either planted out or in tubs, and so arranged 
as not to deprive the trees on the back wall of too much light. 
Grand Plums are also grown in wall cases by planting the trees 
in front, one to each rafter, and training them up the roof as 
cordons. This does not prejudicially affect Peach or Nectarine 
trees on the wall. 
Span-roofed houses with the ends north and south, or north-east 
and south-west, are suitable for standard Plum trees—the best 
of all methods of training stone fruits under glass. A row of trees 
can be disposed in the centre, and a row on each side of the house. 
It is imperative that the trees have stems so high that their heads 
will be exposed to full light. If grown in pots it matters little 
what form the trees are in, nor what height or width the house 
may be if it is light and airy. In exposed localities it has been 
recommended to sink the floor of the house somewhat below the 
surface, so as to secure the advantage of earth heat, and facilitate 
the covering of the roof with mats or canvas in severe weather. 
The great objection to sunk houses is damp, especially in low sites. 
With the trees in pots the roof lights may be fixed, as they can be 
transferred anywhere at will, and the grand secret of success in the 
culture of Plums in cool houses is keeping the trees dormant as 
late as possible, with the soil in a thoroughly moist condition. 
Excessive dryness at the roots as a means of forcing the trees to 
become and remain dormant till late in the spring often causes the 
buds to fall. When the trees are fully exposed from the fall of 
the leaves to the bursting of the buds inactivity and the soundness 
of the buds are assured during the resting season, and Plum trees 
take no harm whatever in the severest weather when the pots are 
plunged over the rims in ashes. An orchard house with boarded 
sides, not so close as to entirely deprive the trees of light on frosty 
nights and on cold days when the house is shut, hinged boards at 
the sides opening the full length of the structure provide efficient 
ventilation, and the roof glazed with large panes of glass, is the 
exact position for growing Plum trees in pots. This site affords 
sufficient shelter against our uncertain springs, insures the perfect 
ripening of the fruit in cold, dull, wet seasons, and prevents its 
No. 689.—VOL. XXVII., Thied Series. 
deterioration hy throwing off rains and keeping it safe from 
dews and fogs. 
The early and late varieties are invariably excellent for growing 
under glass, but the crackling-fleshed and high quality midseason 
varieties, as the Gage race, Jefferson and Kirke’s, do not always 
finish satisfactorily, the fruit turning soft and shrinking instead of 
ripening. The late Mr. T. Rivers advised trees of these Plums to 
be removed to a warm and sheltered situation outdoors for ripening ; 
it is an excellent plan provided means are taken to protect the fruit 
from rain, otherwise it cracks in wet weather. This method can only 
be adopted with trees in pots. For planted-out trees careful attention 
is necessary in ventilating, watering, and feeding during the early 
stages of growth, with plenty of air moisture when the fruit is 
swelling, especially at night in dry hot summers. Air at the time 
of ripening cannot be too freely admitted, as it is excessive 
evaporation which causes the fruit to ripen prematurely and be soft 
and poor in flavour. Oullins Golden is very handsome and as good 
as it looks, but the tree grows too freely to fruit well, yet it 
frequently does better under glass than in the garden. Denniston’s 
Superb admits no rival in its season for crop and quality. McLaughlin 
may be described as a large Green Gage with a fine perfume. 
Brahy’s Green Gage is earlier than the old Green Gage and larger ; 
it certainly is one of the most delicious Plums. Early Trans¬ 
parent Gage is excellent for growing as cordons and in pots, but 
the fruit requires to be somewhat severely thinned. Green Gage 
bears enormously when the soil is firm and the roots restricted or 
root-pruned. Transparent Gage grows vigorously, and it requires 
a firm soil and restriction at the roots or root-pruning. Purple 
Gage shrivels, and is richly flavoured accordingly. Lawson’s 
Golden Gage affords a pleasing variety and is excellent in quality. 
Guthrie’s Late Green and Reine Claude de Bavay, with Late 
Transparent Gage, continue the supply up to October, and col¬ 
lectively comprise a dozen of the richest Plums in cultivation. 
They are all, except Purple Gage, greenish yellow, or yellow 
streaked or blotched with green or purple. Bryanston Gage also 
ripens late in September, and the tree is very prolific. Few, if 
any. Plums are richer flavoured than Angelina Burdett, and being 
black with brown spots is of good appearance. Of other Plums 
for dessert Early Favourite ripens as soon as any, followed by 
De Montfort, Jefferson, Kirke’s, Coe’s Golden Drop, and Ickworth 
Imperatrice, so that with a judicious selection choice fruit can be 
had from trees in a cool house from July to November inclusive. 
The following are also good for dessert or culinary when grown 
under glass—Czar, Belgian Purple, Sultan, Denbigh, Victoria, 
Italian Prune, Prince Englebert, Washington, Monarch, Imperial 
de Milan, Blue Imperatrice, and Grand Duke. All may be grown 
as cordons, planting the trees about 2 feet apart, and training the 
stems about 1 foot from the glass. If the trees are fan-trained 
fewer varieties will be required. Denniston’s Superb, Brahy’s 
Green Gage, Jefferson, Transparent Gage, Kirke’s, and Coe’s 
Golden Drop cannot well be excelled for affording a succession of 
choice fruit. 
Whether the trees are planted out or grown in pots they 
require a rather stiff soil. Good calcareous strong loam interspersed 
with small stones or flints needs no admixture for borders. Efficient 
drainage, consisting of 3-inch drains to carry off superfluous water, 
1 foot depth of rubble, preferably brickbats with a 3-inch top 
layer of old mortar rubbish, and 18 to 24 inches depth of soil a^e 
necessary for borders. For pots or restricted borders a fourth part 
of well decayed manure to three of stiff maiden loam, with a 9-inch 
potful of bonemeal and a quart of soot added to every 3 bushels 
of compost, are suitable. If the soil is deficient of grit and lime add 
a fifth part of sifted old mortar rubbish, and if turfy use Thomas’s 
phosphate instead of bone dust. The pots should be drained 
thoroughly with crocks or oystei shells. Make the soil firm and allow 
sufficient space for helding water. Planting or potting is best done 
immediately the leaves have fallen. Potted trees ought to be plunged 
No. 2345.—VoL. LXXXIX., Old Series. 
