Kovcmber 16, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
457 
No less than five competed with a group of Chrysanthemum plants 
to occupy a space 10 feet by 60 feet, and a very grand display was made, 
all being deemed worthy of prizes, and received them accordingly. Mr. 
\V. H. Clack, gardener to Col. C. E. Colton, M.P., Roundvvay Park, 
Devizes, was first. Mr. W. Mantell, gardener to W. Brown, Esq., 
Pottering, was second with a very imposing group. The third prize 
went to Mr. G. Pymm, gardener to Mrs. Gouldsmith, Trowbridge ; an 
extra prize going to Mr. Smart, gardener to T. Chandler, Esq. ; and a 
fifth to Dr. Eayment, Pewsey. Other plants were shown well. 
[We have been compelled to abridge the reports of many shows, and 
to omit some of which no notification was received either by advertise¬ 
ment or in the form of reporters’ tickets. ] 
WOKK.fo^ItheWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Strawberries. —Clear away all surplus plants from between the 
rows, at the same time forking up strong weeds, or, if the latter are 
only small, hoeing them down in dry weather will suffice. Runners 
attached either to old or young plants ought to be cut, and the largest 
of the old.leaves if at all withered or shabby may with advantage be 
removed. Weedy, untidy, and crowded Strawberry beds are at this 
season very unsightly, besides being detrimental to the well-being of 
the future crop. A mulching of manure may advantageously be applied 
between the rows of old plants, but recently planted Strawberries on 
fairly rich ground will not need at present any stimulation from the 
surface. 
Raspberries. —If not previously cut away the old bearing canes 
must now be removed, disposing the stout current year’s canes evenly 
along the trellis if such be employed. Shorten them to about 5 feet in 
length. When grown in stools or clumps divide the canes equally into 
three portions. Shorten one portion to the height of the stake used, 
which may be 5 feet, the next to 3|- feet, and the remaining one to 
2 feet, so that a pyramidal form of growth may be obtained and the 
fruiting portions disposed more regularly than is usually the case when 
all the canes are pruned to one uniform height. 
Planting Raspberries. —Raspberries may now be planted, digging 
or trenching the ground well to a depth of 2 feet, adding some partially 
decayed manure, which must be well incorporated with the soil. Rasp¬ 
berries enjoy a rich, deep, loamy soil, as may be evidenced in a few years 
by the length and strength of the canes produced. When planting in 
clumps the canes from eaeh being tied to a single stake, 8 feet apart is a 
proper distance, but in lines, the canes being secured to wires 2 feet will 
suffice. Plant strong roots with stout canes and plenty of fibres. 
After planting mulch with manure, and shorten the canes to within 
a foot of the ground. Strong growths will issue next year, but no fruit 
will be had. It is better to sacrifice the first year’s crop in order to 
obtain extra vigorous growth and establish the plants. This once 
obtained in rich soil will continue with annual mulchings in the autumn 
for the purpose of feeding, and a similar application of manure in the 
surface soil where abundance of active fibres are always found. 
Blackberries. —The cultivated forms of Blackberries produce fruit 
which is exceedingly useful in the autumn. They succeed well in 
gardens possessing a strong rich soil in a sheltered but open position. 
The Parsley-leaved and Wilson, jun., Blackberries are two of the best, 
the former doing well in cold late districts. The fruit is large, juicy, 
and black in colour. Their cultivation is simple, being chiefly on the 
same lines as Raspberries. They take rather longer to establish them¬ 
selves, seldom being strong enough to fruit before the third season after 
planting, inasmuch as it is imperative for strong canes to be produced 
before the plants are allowed to bear. 
Planting- Blackberries. —Young plants, which are better than old 
ones, obtained and planted now, cutting them down close to the soil 
immediately after, or before growth commences in the spring, will 
grow freely next season. Select an open position sheltered from 
northerly or easterly winds. Trench the ground to a depth of 2^ feet, 
thoroughly breaking up the subsoil, but not bringing it to the top. 
Enrich the whole bulk of soil with manure of a suitable character. If 
rather light, cow manure may be employed, but light shallow soils are 
not suitable for producing superior growth and abundant fruit. Heavy 
soil may be dressed with partially decayed horse manure, working it as 
well in through the bulk of material as possible. 
Blackberry canes grow to a great length, therefore plant at a distance 
of 5 feet from each other in rows 8 to 10 feet asunder. A stout stake 
should be driven down opposite each plant, and another midway between 
the two, making them 2J feet apart. To strengthen them and hold 
them together cross and diagonal pieces may be secured upon them, and 
a trellis formed 6 to 8 feet high, to which the canes may be trained. 
Laterals issue from the canes in summer, flower, and produce fruit in 
immense clusters, which ripen at a time of the year when they prove 
especially welcome. 
Pruning and Feeding. —As before mentioned the plants should be 
cut down closely immediately after planting, or at the latest before 
growth commences in the spring. Shorten again the following autumn, 
encouraging the subsequent season’s canes to grow vigorously, thinning 
them out early to four or five of the strongest. Thorough ripening will 
ensure fruitfulness, A good mulching of rich manure must be applied 
every autumn to enrich the soil. Liquid manure in the summer and 
at other times proves most beneficial to well established plants. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Young StocJi. —Small houses, span or three-quarter span- 
roofed, are the moat suitable for young plants, where, with proper 
attention to ventilation and close proximity to the glass without touch¬ 
ing it, they will make steady progress without being drawn and weakly, 
as occurs when they are kept too close and warm, and a considerable 
distance from the light. A temperature of 65° at night should not be 
exceeded, and a mean between that and 55° at night, with 65° in the 
daytime, will keep young stock in a healthy progressive condition, 
admitting a little air at the top of the house at 65°, leaving it on all 
day, but not to lower the temperature below that point. Keep the 
bottom heat steady at 80°, avoiding anything approaching to a damp 
atmosphere, but moderate humidity is necessary. Apply water only at 
the roots when the plants become dry, and then give tepid weak liquid 
manure. Allow the plants plenty of room. Suckers ready for starting 
now may be kept until March, and if there is likely to be a scarcity of 
these for starting at that time, any recently potted may be afforded 
a light position in a moderately moist pit, with slight bottom heat, and 
a temperature of 55° at night, keeping them rather dry at the roots. 
In the fruiting department 65° will be ample at night, 5° lower in 
the morning in cold weather, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 10° to 15° 
rise from sun heat. Take every opportunity of collecting leaves whilst 
dry. Oak and Beech being the best, and whenever a favourable oppor¬ 
tunity offers push forward whatever may be necessary in the renewing 
or augmenting the fermenting beds. 
Vines. — Earliest forced in Pots. —Those started early in the month 
will respond promptly to the call made upon them by the warmth at the 
roots and the moist genial atmosphere, and will soon be showing signs of 
grow'th, when the temperature may be slightly increased—55° minimum 
and 65° maximum from fire heat, with 10° more from sun heat, 
proportionately increasing the atmospheric moisture and keeping the 
soil healthfully moist. Ventilation will only require to be moderate, 
affording what is needed at the top of the house, or if side air be given 
it should be made to pass over the heated surface so as to become 
warmed, for cold currents of air are very pernicious. 
Houses of Tliin-sTiinned Grapes. —November weather, as a rule, is 
not favourable to hanging Grapes, often causing them to damp consider¬ 
ably, Grapes have ripened well this season, the skins being thicker and 
the flesh firmer than usual, whilst the juices are particularly rich and 
sugary. Black Hamburgh and Foster’s Seedling, ripe in August, are 
keeping wonderfully well, also Madresfield Court which keeps better 
than Hamburghs, but loses colour seriously. Black Hamburghs with the 
roots of the Vine entirely inside are shrivelling, whilst those with the 
roots outside are quite fresh. Vines ripening their crops in September 
are still in foliage, and will bear more moisture at the roots and in the 
atmosphere than those that have had the Grapes ripe since August. 
Slight heat in the pipes will be required almost constantly to maintain 
an equable temperature, but this must not be high or it will cause the 
berries to shrivel prematurely, ventilating freely and early in bright 
weather so as to prevent moisture being condensed on the berries. 
The outside borders are best protected from rains, as excessively moist 
borders affect the Grapes prejudicially, and inside borders should have 
sufficient moisture to prevent the soil cracking, and if covered with a 
little clean sweet straw the Grapes will keep better. Covering the 
border prevents its cracking, and keeps down moisture likely to arise 
and prove injurious to the Grapes. 
Hoiises Cleared of Grapes. —Where the Vines are leafless and the 
Grapes cut, attend to the pruning and cleansing of the house. If the 
Vines have stout, short-jointed well-ripened wood, the bearing shoots 
(side growths or laterals as they are frequently termed) may be pruned 
to a couple of eyes. If, however, the base buds are small, and the Vines 
from similar buds in previous years have not given as large bunches as 
desired, the shoots may be left a little longer, taking care to secure a 
plump, round (not flat), well developed bud on stout, hard, thoroughly 
ripened wood for pruning to, as this class of buds are necessary to give 
close compact bunches of well set berries, with a stoutness of footstalk 
that does not fall an easy prey to shanking. Large flat buds on long- 
jointed pithy wood generally throw out large uneven badly set bunches, 
with thin large flabby leaves on long-jointed wood, and these are 
incapable of elaborating the food and concentrating it in the buds at 
their base. Also avoid pointed buds, as they are not always productive 
of bunches, and those produced are often so small and tendril-like, 
as to be scareely w'orth allowing to remain for a crop. Wash the glass 
with clear water, the wood and ironwork with softsoap, water, and a 
brush. Remove the loose bark from the rods and spurs, but avoid close 
peeling and hard scraping. Wash the Vines with tepid softsoap water 
3 ozs. to a gallon, using a brush with care and judgment, and follow if 
necessary with an insecticide. Clear away the mulching or loose surface 
soil down to the roots, and place on a couple of inches thickness of 
fresh turfy loam. Afterwards sprinkle over it 4 ozs. per square yard of 
a mixture composed of three parts bonemeal and two parts kainit, and 
this will be dissolved and washed down to the roots by the early 
watering. If the houses must be used for plants they should be kept 
cool, admitting air freely, and not exceeding 40° to 45° by artificial 
