480 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 23, 1893. 
well for being lifted with a fairly large ball of soil about the roots, and 
then bedded in somewhat closely together in the pit of a cool vinery, or 
in a deep brick pit, turf pit, or wooden frame. Some of the oldest 
leaves may be removed, and if the tops do not smother each other, the 
hearts will keep fresh for several weeks. Lifting and either laying or 
suspending in either a cellar or shed will be the next best plan to 
pursue, especially in the case of those with hearts nearly or quite fully 
grown. If those with hearts only just commencing to form were also 
lifted and stored in a pit or vinery, the roots being firmly surrounded 
with rich soil kept constantly moist, these would soon recommence active 
growth, and a good supply of small hearts be had at midwinter and later. 
Snow’s Winter White seldom hearts in before February or March, but 
this season there is a prospect of its being very much earlier. Some few 
hearts are already showing, and if a portion of the breadth of this variety 
were lifted and stored under glass, as advised in the case of late hearting 
Veitch’s Autumn Protecting, there is every likelihood of their well 
repaying for the trouble taken with them. 
Successlonal and Iiate Broccoli. —In most cases the main crop and 
late Broccoli have grown very strongly. Frost have given the desired 
check to this late growth, but all the plants are so full of sap that they 
will not withstand a severe frost. It is the stems however that are the 
most susceptible of injury, and these should be protected. Heavily 
moulding up the stems without greatly damaging the outer leaves 
would be a desirable practice, but as a rule the rows are arranged far too 
closely together for this to be done. Heeling in or laying down Broccoli 
renders the plants hardier and assists in prolonging the supply. 
% 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather—Feeding. 
With the exception of Panics, which are still working, all the 
other bees have been very quiet during the past month of change¬ 
able weather. Frost has been frequent, but of short duration, the 
lowest temperature being 21° on several occasions. Up till 
November I3th the barometer was exceedingly high, standing at 
30 40 for several weeks ; on the 14th it began to move, and on the 
17th it registered 28 10, with the thermometer at an early hour at 
50° with a drizzling rain, and bees active on the wing. It is 
impossible to say what the coming winter will be, but judging 
from the actions of certain animals, I should not be surprised it 
will be of a mild nature. 
If favourable weather prevails, the present is a good time to 
change floors, for when solid they will be more or less affected 
with damp, which is very injurious to both bees and hives. As I 
find the hives are much lighter than they were two months ago, it 
will be advisable to pay attention to the stores which the bees have, 
and if short, supplement them by feeding with a few pounds of 
syrup. 
Hints for Beginners. 
As there are numerous inquiries about the Lanarkshire 
storifying hive, and as it is the most fitting season for amateurs to 
be making preparations for the next summer, I have resolved to 
give instructions on my favourite hive, which I have used for well 
nigh half a century. In doing so I will not set forth the hive as 
one of an ornate character, but as one specially adapted for the 
preservation of bees, working them to their own and their owner’s 
best advantage, both as a pastime and from a commercial point of 
view. It is many years since I abandoned the fancy apiary for one 
of utility; but for all that the Lanarkshire hive can be made as 
comely in appearance as any hive. At one time I used much fret¬ 
work, and otherwise adorned my hives with fancy painting; but I 
soon tired of such work. Having to move my hives long distances 
to the Heather in common conveyances by land and water taught 
that a hive to be suitable and profitable must be one of little 
compass, and which could not be easily damaged. 
I have still to take my bees to the Heather at Leadhills, about 
fifty miles by road and by rail, and if our hives were but a little 
larger they would one year with another be a losing concern. I 
once started from home at three o’clock a.m. with ten hives and 
some other articles upon a barrow to catch the boat at the Braemie- 
law (about nine miles) at 7.20. On reaching Lamlash the tide was 
ebbing, and the captain deemed it unsafe to land us at the quay, so 
we had, with the assistance of those on board, our live cargo put 
afloat in a ferry boat ; but as there was no landing place, and 
the tide being against us, we had no alternative but to wade into 
the sea and pull the bees ashore on the barrow. Another half or 
three-quarters of a mile further up the “ brae ” I had my bees 
safely set down and at work a little after two o’clock. The reader 
may consider whether there is another hive that could be transmitted 
the same distance, and in such a manner.—A Lanarkshire Bee¬ 
keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Hogg & Eobertson, 22, Mary Street, Dublin.— Forest Trees, Conifers, 
Fruit Trees, and Roses. 
L4vgque & Sons, Ivry-sur-Seine, Paris.— Chrysanthemums, 
Dahlias, and Other Plants. 
•**A11 correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (IF. F. G.'). —Cooke’s “Manual of Botanic Terms” is what 
we think you require. It is published by Mr. Hardwick, 192, Piccadilly 
London, and can be obtained through a local bookseller. It is in¬ 
expensive. {G. F.'). —There is no book published of the exact nature 
you appear to require. 
Better (.7. Taylor'). —Your letter is received, and the enclosure has 
been forwarded in accordance with your desire. 
B.ucuba japonlca (IF. M. B .).—The pollen-bearing form of this 
shrub was introduced by Mr. Fortune in 1850. 
Cyprlpedlum luslg^ne ( (F. B. Tidy) —It is not very unusual for 
Cypripedium insigne to carry two flowers on one stalk under superior 
cultivation, and no doubt you have before grown the plant well. 
Vlvland IVXorel Sport (tr. Marr). —The sport of which you send a 
bloom is of no value. There are many better, but all are more or less 
inconstant, and appear to refuse to be “fixed” for purposes of increase 
and cultivation. 
Extalbltlnir Chrysanthemums {J. C.M.). —In a class for “twenty- 
four varieties (cut blooms) Japanese,” a stand containing two blooms of 
any variety would be open to disqualification on the ground that only 
twenty-three varieties would be included. 
Exhtbltlngr Chrysanthemums (A. T.). —You ask if an exhibitor 
would be disqualified by having an incurved Japanese amongst the 
incurved blooms in a class described as follows : “ For the best twenty- 
four cut blooms, viz., twelve incurved and twelve Japanese, not less than 
twelve varieties, and more than three of any one variety.” Such a class 
would admit twelve Japanese blooms, incurved or not, but admittedly 
Japanese, and twelve incurved blooms, not of Japanese origin ; thirteen 
Japanese blooms would not be within the conditions, and would invite 
disqualification. 
Bone Manures (F. J.). —The kind you have obtained is presum¬ 
ably the same as steamed bone flour. An analysis, showing the con¬ 
stituents of manures, should be supplied by vendors. Your mixture 
would be good for general use, but if trees or plants are too slow in 
growth they could be stimulated by a supplementary dressing of finely 
powdered nitrate of soda, at the rate of half an ounce or little more to 
the square yard in April, and as may be further needed ; but the potassic 
and phosphatic manures must be in the soil as well for the best 
permanent results to be forthcoming. 
Tuberous Fungus Found Under an Old Oak Tree (A. S.). — 
The tubers are not those of the true edible T.-uffle (Tuber sestivum), nor 
belong to that genus, yet to the same order—Tuberacei. The true 
Truffle is black outside, and the flesh, so esteemed for flavouring, is at 
first whitish and tender, but afterwards becomes powdery, and not unlike 
a Puff-ball, to which, however, it is not closely related. Four tubers are 
those of Elaphomyces variegatus (muricatus), Vitt., white outside and 
black inside, with white interlacing (variegated). This Truffle—all the 
Tuberacei are popularly termed Tmffles—was formerly used in medicine, 
but is now discarded. Whether it is edible or not we have no experience, 
but field mice are extremely fond of the tubers, and are continually 
scratching about for them. The botanist is guided to where this Truffle 
is to be found by the appearance of a parasitic fungus (Torrubia 
ophioglossoides, 7ul.), the spawn of which grows over a common moss 
(Mnium hornum, Hedio-), and is running in search of the Truffles 
(Elaphomyces variegatus), which usually grow from 4 to 5 inches 
beneath the surface. If there are no Elaphomyces in the soil, the 
mycelium of the Torrubia perishes, but in most woods where the moss 
grows the Truffles are generally found. 
Weed on Tennis Bawn QJ. R.) —There are several weeds called 
Gill-run-the-ground. Had you sent a portion we might have recognised 
it; but that is not material, as you do not wish to interfere with the 
ground, beyond applying something to the surface. If your employer 
