618 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Ee member 7, 1833. 
a few observations can be trusted the roots of the thicker of the two 
stems always penetrated the other. It frequently fixed itself to the 
surface of the leaves of the Jasmine as well as around the stems and 
petioles. 
Preserving Fresh Fruit in Carbonic Acid Gas .—The following 
communication was received from Mr. W. Sykes of Woodleigh, East 
Dulwich, being a description of experiments suggested at a meeting 
of the Scientific Committee on July 25th :—“ On August 23rd I put 
down some Apples, Pears, Plums, Tomatoes, and eggs, but am sorry to 
say that, so far, my experiments with carbonic acid gas are unsatis¬ 
factory ; neither does it appear to check the ripening or decomposition, 
and it gives the fruit a peculiar flavour. The Apples have a musty, 
coddled taste. With the Plums the gas centres round the stones. In 
the Tomatoes there is a sharp, forbidding, pungent taste throughout, 
which leaves them after standing twenty-four hours in the air. I 
allowed the gas to pass through the washing bottle into the tins, the 
natural air escaping through a pipe. After the fresh air had escaped 
(tested with a lighted match), I closed the latter pipe and let the gas 
work itself dead slow. After giving them all a good application (three 
dozen taking in both applications some six hours) I went through them 
again, opening the escape pipe mentioned above to scour out, then I 
reclosed it with pliers before closing the entrance pipe, the gas had 
worked dead slow, the top and bottom bulging out. The pressure at the 
gauge stood at 5 lbs. The water in the washing bottle was fresh boiled 
and put into the washer (just bearable) being changed for every dozen 
tins. I did not exhaust the air, and found with this test of a week that 
the Tomatoes were sweating equal to those kept for over a fortnight 
after the air was exhausted. Some Coryopsis, white Marguerites, and 
Nasturtiums were put under the same process (August 23rd). The first 
kept well, and after being in water looked none the worse ; the white 
of the Marguerites turned to a pale chocolate beyond recovery, and the 
Nasturtiums collapsed into a withered heap.” Professor Church observed 
that the failure might have been due to an insufficient time having been 
allowed for the atmospheric air to diffuse. He added that much 
carbonic acid had been proved to exist around Mangold roots when turfed 
over, which undoubtedly acted as a preservative. 
GRAPES AND TOMATOES. 
[Read at Hereford by Mr. S. T. Wright, Gardener to 0. Lee Campbell, Esq., Glewstone 
Court, Ross.] 
The Cultivation of Grapes. 
In dealing with this subject my remarks must be brief, as time will 
not permit of an elaborate description of Grape-growing. A good start 
is important, and to insure that result perfect drainage is essential, as 
stagnant water is fatal to satisfactory results, so that if there is not a 
free drainage naturally, it should be provided; at the same time a 
heavy expense is unnecessary. A drain put down the middle of the 
border and covered with a foot of rubble will be ample ; over this turves 
should be placed, grass side downwards ; and if the soil is of a fairly 
open character. I would not use anything but turf in making the border. 
If the soil is heavy, just sufficient lime, mortar, or plaster refuse may be 
added to keep the mass open and allow the water to pass away freely. 
My experience is decidedly against mixing animal manures with the 
soil for the border. It is not wanted, and it is very apt to cause the 
border to become sour, and the Vines more or less unhealthy in con¬ 
sequence. It is a mistake to make the border full width at first. 
Supposing it to be from 2|^ to 3 feet deep, which is deep enough, a 
border 3 or 4 feet wide at first will be ample for the first two years, 
and after fruiting has commenced a foot more may be added until the 
allotted space has been filled. Opinions differ as to the best time to 
plant young Vines. I favour planting when the Vine is in active 
growth, disturbing the roots as little as possible, avoiding deep planting, 
but having the top roots of the Vine only 2 or 3 inches below the surface 
of the border, making the soil firm about the roots, and a thorough 
soaking of water applied at once. Liquid manure is seldom requisite 
for the first year, as it would probably cause a thick pithy growth, 
difficult to ripen, and thus a source of trouble in the future. What 
should be aimed at is a short-jointed, hard wood, with bold buds, that 
will be almost certain to give satisfactory results. Attention to venti¬ 
lation, atmospheric moisture, and watering of the border is all-important 
to grow first-class Grapes. 
Taking ventilation first, every practical gardener is well aware how 
the weather has to be studied, increasing or reducing the air admitted 
according to external circumstances. If too much air is given, so as to 
give the Vines a check, mildew sets in, or the Grapes refuse to swell 
properly, and if too little is given, scalding of the foliage occurs. To 
prevent such disasters a constant watch on the weather must be main¬ 
tained, thus avoiding any rapid rising or falling of the temperature. 
On bright mornings a little air should be admitted early, gradually 
increasing it as the sun gets more power, and closing in the afternoon 
with good sun heat, while the Vines are growing. When the fruit 
begins to colour a little air should be left on day and night, but not 
allowing the temperature to become unduly low. After the fruit is 
cut plenty of air should be admitted, and the Vines kept as cool as 
possible without becoming frosted. 
Atmospheric moisture is only second in importance to ventilation. 
As a rule Vines are started into growth at a temperature of 45° to 50°, 
with a thorough syringing of the rods twice Ja day, once in the 
morning and again in the afternoon when the house is closed. The 
Dorder walls, and paths are also damped several times daily, and the 
evaporating troughs on the hot-water pipes kept full of water. As the 
Vines come into bloom syringing them ceases, aad a rather drier 
atmosphere maintained until the Grapes are set. If the Vines are in 
good health a sharp rap on the rods will cause the pollen to fly freely, 
and thus cause a good set. As soon as all the bunches are finished 
setting all the worst or smallest should be cut off, and a more genial 
atmosphere maintained, thoroughly damping the floors and borders 
early in the morning, and again in the middle of the day if bright, and 
again in the afternoon, shutting up with a good sun heat. If the 
temperature rises to 90° or 100° when closed in the evening, so much the 
better for Grapes, providing there is plenty of moisture, as it will cause 
the berries to swell rapidly, and also suit the foliage of the Vine. 
Early thinning is of vital necessity if large bunches and berries are 
desired. In thinning, a space of about 1 inch will be ample for each 
berry, but for the smaller-berried varieties a little less may be allowed. 
The number of bunches each Vine should carry depends on its 
health and vigour and the size of the bunch. For a healthy Vine, 
I consider from 30 to 40 lbs. per rod of about 16 feet long a fair crop ; 
with liberal feeding and good management such a crop of Grapes 
ought to finish well, and produce a similar amount annually. 
The question of feeding is somewhat complex, as soils vary so much 
that manure excellent in one place may be of little value in another, 
owing to the different constituents present or absent naturally in the 
soil. Therefore it is evident that Grape growers must ascertain what 
elements are lacking in their soil necessary to produce good Grapes, and 
when this deficiency is discovered it will be easy to remedy the defect. 
Judging from my experience in various parts of the country, I think 
the majority of Vines do not receive anything like adequate nourish¬ 
ment. When we consider the Grapes, wood, and foliage taken every 
year from the Vines, it is apparent that a vast amount of plant food has 
been absorbed from the soil, and unless these elements are returned 
nothing can prevent degeneration setting in through exhaustion. Again, 
I think too much importance is attached to animal manures ; all solid 
or liquid manures from cattle have a tendency to cause sourness of the 
border, followed by unhealthy root action. The best form in which to 
apply animal manures is in connection with artificial or chemical 
manures; if used with care, judgment, and a knowledge of the soil, 
splendid results will be certain, if combined with good culture in other 
respects. 
The following manures I have used with satisfactory results at 
Glewston Court on the light sandy soil there :—Liquid and solid manure 
from cows, liquid manure extracted from sheep droppings, fish guano, 
bonemeal, superphosphate of lime, and muriate of potash. The time of 
feeding is all the year round in the case of Vines under my charge; 
manure in some form is applied even when the Grapes are ripe, which 
does not affect the flavour at all, but greatly assists the Vines to bear 
the crop, helping also to develop the buds for next season. The 
advantage of winter feeding, or while the Vines are at rest, I consider 
of much importance, for though the root action is slight at that 
period the soil absorbs the plant food applied, and when fresh growth 
is made it is there in the most available form for the roots to take up as 
they require it; consequently the Vines start into growth in a most 
gratifying manner. 
Pruning is best done as early as possible after the foliage falls ; in fact, 
I seldom wait until all is down, but, as soon as about four-fifths of the 
leaves have fallen I prune all side shoots to the first good bud nearest the 
main rod, which is usually the first or second eye. Young leading rods, if 
strong, may be pruned to within 3 or 4 feet of the old cut; a greater 
length of young wood is seldom advisable if the Vines are to crop for a 
considerable number of years. In concluding this paper on Grapes, I 
would strongly urge the importance of cleanliness. Insect enemies of 
all kinds must not be allowed a footing, and every effort should be made 
to keep the Vines free from attack, and the foliage clean and healthy 
right up to the time it falls. By doing so success is practically assured. 
Tomatoes and their Culture. 
In this short paper on Tomatoes, only the chief points connected 
with their management will be given. So popular have Tomatoes 
become, that nearly all classes have become consumers, and many acres 
of glass are devoted to meeting the demand for them. At the same time 
I question if all the Tomatoes sold as English are grown in this country ; 
and many persons have been so disappointed at the flavourless fruit 
they purchased that they have decided to try to grow their own. To 
such persons I hope the following remarks may prove serviceable:— 
If a moderate amount of heat under glass can be obtained, the early 
part of February is a good time to sow the seed, which should be sown 
rather thinly in a pot or pan containing fine and fairly rich soil. As 
soon as the seedlings appear they should be placed in a position close to 
the glass to prevent their becoming drawn. When the young plants are 
large enough to handle, they ought to be placed singly in small pots, 
making the soil moderately firm, and after giving a good watering placed 
near the glass again. Care must be taken that they do not suffer by 
want of water, otherwise they become stunted, and seldom do much 
good afterwards. 
As the pots become full of roots, the plants may be shifted into a 
larger size, in soil composed principally of turfy loam and a slight 
addition of bonemeal and decayed horse droppings, still keeping the 
plants near the glass to cause a stout sturdy growth. The next shift, 
the plants may be transferred to large pots or boxes, using the same soil 
as previously named, and placing the plants in the lightest position 
possible, avoiding overcrowding. From one to three stems, according to 
room, can be trained up, pinching out all side growths as they appear; 
