December 7, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
621 
by long cultivation been in a finely divided fertile state, is a most 
unwise proceeding. When, however, the surface soil has become 
manure-sick and inert it is greatly benefited by the addition of a small 
portion of the subsoil, that known as the “ shovellings,” or the loosened 
portion left after the first spit has been dug out of a trench, being quite 
sufficient for mixing with and correcting the surface soil. After having 
been broken up repeatedly and become well mixed with a variety of 
soluble and insoluble substances a clayey subsoil may be safely and 
profitably brought to the surface by the process known as trenching 
proper. Alluvial soils, or those that have been deposited by floods or 
overflowing rivers, are all of much the same character, sometimes to a 
very considerable depth, and in all such cases pay well for being 
trenched, the subsoil being made to take the place of what was 
previously the top spit. It need hardly be pointed out that shallow 
soils resting on a very gravelly or rocky bottom cannot be deepened 
by trenching, and should be ^ded to as much as possible from the 
surface. 
Rldg^lng- Soils. —The plan of laying garden ground up into ridges 
early in the winter is largely practised in some districts, but is not 
always the best course of treatment that can be adopted. In some 
cases the ridged soil breaks down very finely in the spring, but in the 
furrows the very opposite prevails, this being cold and sodden. Better 
by far in all such instances that ordinary digging, laying the soil up in 
rough spits had been done. Very stiff clayey soil may, however, in 
many cases be laid up in ridges with advantage, but instead of trying to 
arrange it in conical ridges it should be laid up squarely, the spits being 
disposed on the top of each other much as green bricks are dried, frosts 
and winds having then a good opportunity of thoroughly penetrating 
the spits. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Ctaryaanthemums. —Whether good bushes or large blooms are 
required cuttings should be inserted where they can be obtained. It is 
better to wait for a time before insertion, rather than insert growths 
from the stem or poor puny cuttings. Those for large blooms if 
inserted singly in thumb pots, will root freely, even quickly, when 
placed under hand-glasses in a cool, airy house. When rooted under 
cool conditions the plants can be grown without subjecting them to 
heat. All that is needed is to protect them until they can be turned 
outside. Where large bushes are needed three cuttings may be inserted 
in each pot, and properly grown these will produce an enormous supply 
of flowers. For this purpose only free-branching and free-flowering 
varieties should be selected. The stools, after they are cut down, should 
be kept in a cool, airy structure until the cuttings have been taken ; 
nothing is gained by placing them in heat. The plants often die, and 
the cuttings produced are weak, and sometimes fail to root. 
Hydrangreas. —Varieties of H. hortensis that have been rooted in 
email pots, have prominent flower buds, and the foliage has ripened 
naturally, may be potted from time to time as opportunity offers. Pots 
5 inches in diameter are most suitable, and the plants should be potted 
so that the first leaves produced are close to the rim of the pots. These 
plants do well if placed in good loam, one-seventh of manure and 
sand. Old Cucumber and Melon soil mixed together will grow them 
splendidly. After potting the plants should be kept in a cool, airy 
house for a time, when a few may be introduced into a vinery or Peach 
house that is just started, or any structure with a similar temperature. 
Plants that are kept for stock may be cut close back and rested in any 
cool place, and then started into growth under the conditions advised 
for those that have formed flower buds. Plants of H. paniculata grandi- 
flora that were potted while their leaves were upon them will have 
formed some roots. The shoots may be pruned close back, leaving one 
or two eyes of the last year’s wood. These plants do best if plunged 
in cold frames, and allowed to start naturally into growth. 
lilllum Harrlsl. —All plants that have been removed from ashes 
and have turned green should be placed on shelves close to the 
glass, where they will make sturdy growth. Be careful never to allow 
the plants to become dry, and watch for aphides, which are very liable 
to attack the plants in their points. Aphides are readily destroyed by 
fumigating the house or plants with tobacco smoke, or some of the 
various inventions provided for the purpose. 
Cinerarias. —The latest plants of these should be transferred into 
larger pots and placed in a cool airy house, where they can come forward 
slowly. These, if cared for, and kept free from aphides, will be found 
useful when all the earlier plants are past their best. Do not allow 
plants that are well developed and throwing up their flower spikes to 
be crowded together so that their foliage will damp. Water during the 
early part of the day, ventilate freely on all favourable occasions, and 
do not employ more fire heat than is really necessary. Clear soot 
water, or other weak stimulants, should be given every other time the 
plants need water. Keep the plants standing on some moisture-holding 
base, or they are certain to lose their lower foliage, and if a dry 
atmosphere is maintained they are certain to be attacked by aphides. 
Primula obconlca.— Well developed plants will soon come into 
bloom if they are introduced into a temperature of 50°. If the blooms 
are required for cutting only they can remain in this temperature ; if 
for the conservatory, they can be removed to that structure as soon as 
they are presentable. Plants that are required for later flowering may 
be kept cool in any light airy structure where the temperature does not 
fall below 45° at night. 
Souble Primulas. —Plants that are wanted in flower may be 
placed where the temperature ranges about 50° at night. They will 
soon come into flower and continue for a long time. No attempt must 
be made to keep them in a close confined atmosphere, or they are 
certain to damp. A moderately dry atmosphere should be maintained 
with a little air on all occasions when the weather permits of it, 
ventilators being opened. 
Justicla flavicoma. —This much-neglected plant will make the 
conservatory gay at this period of the year. When the first flowers are 
over the plants should not be cut back or thrown away, for they will 
flower a second and even a third time. Very frequently the second 
flowering is decidedly the best. The plants may be introduced again 
into warmth. When well grown the dark glossy foliage of the plant is 
attractive, and the contrast is very striking when large plumes of yellow 
flowers are produced. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Barron & Sons, Elvaston Nurseries, Borrowash, near Derby. 
— Coniferm, Ornamental Plants, and Forest Trees. 
Dammann & Co., San Giovanni a Teduccio, Italy. — Flower and 
Vegetable Novelties. 
Herb & Wulle, Naples, Italy.— Natural Curiosities, Tree, Garden, 
and Agricultural Seeds. 
W. Wells, Earlswood Nurseries, Redhill.— New Chrysanthemums. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Hints for Beginners. 
The bee-keeper who intends to make his own hives must pay 
particular attention to the following instructions. White pine is 
sometimes used for hives, and it is the cheapest, but is the most 
worthless and least endurable. It is much affected by the weather, 
shrinking or swelling more than other woods. Where it can he 
afforded yellow or red pine should be preferred. The latter does 
not carry off the perspirations of the bees so well as the former, 
but the ventilating floor obviates all risks of injury from damp. 
Unless where boards are matched it is unnecessary that they should 
be well seasoned ; but allowance should be made for shrinkage, 
which is about a quarter of an inch to the foot laterally only. 
Wood damped after seasoning swells to the same extent as green 
wood, therefore do not apply paint nor hinge parts together until 
the whole is perfectly dry, or decay is rapid, and the joint at the 
hinges will be open, which causes trouble. Reject all sap wood, 
and keep the heart of the wood outermost. Provide yourself with 
a few proper tools. 
The instructions given are intended for amateurs and not 
tradesmen, as the two work on different lines. AVhere used boxes 
are available they should be secured if at a moderate price, and 
take care not to split the pieces when taking them asunder. Pretty 
section cases and supers can be made from many kinds of used 
boxes. Some of my hives are made wholly from such cases, 
including ironmongery, roof, and a dozen of supers or four- 
section crates, at a cost of Is. 6d. actual outlay ; paint, oil-cloths, 
and wrappings to be added. 
Neatness is desirable, but is not absolutely necessary ; but 
accuracy in sawing is the principal point. In sawing there are three 
kinds of cuts—“clearing ” the drought, “riding” the drought, and 
cutting inside it. The use of the several cuts will be explained in 
a future issue. In order to work accurately, templates and measurers 
should be used. 
Without oilcloths we should not get on very well. Summer is 
the best time to make them, but where a loft is accessible old ones 
may be spread flat, and with a brush given a coat of boiled linseed 
oil. No other kind of oil will do. New cloths may be steeped 
for several days in the oil after being washed, then hung up by one 
corner and allowed to drip, reversing the position at intervals until 
the oil begins to set, when they should be stretched out and sus¬ 
pended to dry. With these preliminary remarks I will close, 
hoping to be able shortly to give further instructions with diagrams. 
—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
GARDENERS’ CHARITABLE AND PROVIDENT 
INSTITUTIONS. 
The Gardeners’ Royal Benevolent Institution. — Secretary, 
Mr. G. J. Ingrain, 50, Parliament Street, London, W.C. 
United Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society.— 
Secretary, Mr. W. Collins, 9, Martindale Road, Balham, London, S.W. 
Royal Gardeners’ Orphan Fund. — Secretary, Mr. A. F. Barron, 
Royal Horticultural Society’s Gardens, Chiswick, London, W. 
