522 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 7, 1893. 
correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the stafE often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three ques>«ons at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (ZT. <7. C.'). — You can obtain “ Chrysanthemums and their 
Culture,” by E. Molyneux, and “Vines and Vine Culture,” by 
A. F. Barron, from this office. The former is Is. 2d. and the latter 
58. 3d., post free. 
Cherry Tree Wood (^Cherry Blossom'). —The wood of the Cherry 
tree is easily worked, beau tifully grained, and takes a fine polish. It 
was much sought after formerly by cabinet makers, turners, and musical 
instrument makers, but is not in particular request at the present time, 
as mahogany is readily o btainable in this country. Nevertheless, we 
have known good prices given of late years for sound trees, especially of 
the Wild Gean, which in some woods on chalk formations attains the 
dimensions of Oak trees, and is very clean in growth. Consult a timber 
merchant, or preferably a cabinet maker in a large way of business. 
mineral Constituents of Apple and Onion (£'. W.). —The 
whole fruit of Apples contains about 0 27 per cent, of ash in 100 parts 
—potash, 35’68; soda, 26'09 ; magnesia, 8‘75 ; lime, 4'08 ; phosphoric 
acid, 12'34 ; sulphuric acid, 6 09 ; silicic acid, 4 32; iron, 2'G5. Onion 
ash, 0'46 per cent, in 100 parts—potash, 32 35 ; soda, 8 04 ; magnesia, 
2'70 ; lime, 12'66 ; phosphoric acid, 15 09 ; sulphuric acid, 8 34 ; silicic 
acid, 3'04; iron, 12’29 ; chloride of sodium, 4-49, If the ammonia¬ 
forming substances are consumed, how can there be any nitrogen in 
plant ash ? This, of course, is not what you mean, but the albuminoid 
in Apples only comprise 0'4, and the mineral matter 0'4 per cent, in 
100 parts ; and the albuminoides are 1’5, and the mineral matter 0’5 per 
cent, in Onions per 100 parts. 
Sulphate of Copper Solution for Destroying Scale QD. H .)— 
The solution advised on page 327, October 12th, for cleaning incised and 
cankered wounds is far too strong to apply to the tender wood of Peach 
trees for the destruction of scale. It, however, would not injure thoroughly 
ripened wood, and certainly would destroy the scale, provided it was 
dislocated with a brush, avoiding injury to the buds. The solution, 
also, would act deterrently on the fungal germs. Try it on a few 
growths first, and if that does not prove injurious, the solution can then 
safely be used. For destroying the scale there is nothing better than 
2 oz. each of caustic soda (98 per cent.) and commercial potash (pearl- 
ash) to 2 gallons of water, applying with a brush, wetting every part. 
If the wood is soft, dilute to 3 gallons ; and apply in either case at a 
temperature of 120’ to 130°. 
Tlie movements of Deaves (^Avlate^^r). —You are right, spon¬ 
taneous movements of leaves, or those in response to some direct 
irritation, are interesting. They have been subjected to close scientific 
study in the case of such as the Dionsea and Droseras with surprising 
results, the carnivorous plants having enjoyed a notoriety far exceeding 
the “ Weather Plant,” which was so much in evidence two or three years 
ago. The infolding of the leaf lobes in the Dionaea when some substance 
is introduced is familiar to many now, as also is the rapid drooping of 
the Sensitive Plant leaves when touched. There is, however, an occupant 
of the stoves in some botanic gardens which displays a still more remark¬ 
able phenomenon in its leaves, and which is not nearly so well known. 
This is the Telegraph Plant, Desmodium gyrans, a member of the 
Leguminosse, and a native of the East Indies, and by no means a novelty. 
Though Mr. Darwin and others have determined that most plants have 
a spontaneous motion in their growing stems and roots, these are so 
extremely gradual that they are not re.adily observed, and can only be 
tested by careful experiment. In the Desmodium, however, we have a 
spontaneous movement that is visible and strongly marked. The leaves 
consist of three leaflets, the centre one large, oblong, or elliptical, and at 
the base on each side is a small narrow leaflet, which possesses a peculiar 
property. When the plant is healthy and growing these leaflets rise 
alternately by a series of little jerks until they are nearly perpendicular, 
and then descend in a similar way, to resume their action when the 
other leaflet has gone through a similar process. This takes place 
without the application of external stimulant beyond that afforded by 
light or heat; the rapidity of the movement varies greatly, however, and 
in dull weather it is much reduced or ceases altogether, as it does when 
the plant becomes unhealthy or old. Sometimes the motion is confined 
to a few leaves, but it seems to depend chiefly on the age of the plant, 
the weather, or the conditions under which it is grown. In cold or a dry 
house it is much lessened, and does not continue so long. 
SxposlniT Wood Ashes to Rain (71. JET.).—When wood ashes are 
exposed to rain the potash and other salts are washed out, and enter the 
ground beneath and around to such an extent as to prevent anything 
growing on the spot for some time, though a luxuriant growth of 
whatever plants may be on the margin is the consequence. If wood 
ashes are placed in a tub and water poured on them, and left a few 
days, the main portion of the soluble constituents of the ashes are found 
in the water, and this strained off leaves a residuum of very little 
manurial value ; may be tested by applying these leached ashes to one 
tree and the lye to another, and noting the results. Dry wood ashes 
from wood not larger than a “ cord” contained 8 J per cent, of real potash, 
and 2 per cent, of phosphoric acid, or about lbs. of potash, and 1 lb. 
phosphoric acid per bushel. These are worth 2s. at least, besides which 
there is 10 to 15 per cent, of alkaline matter, available for converting 
vegetable substances in the soil into ammonia. A peck of wood ashes 
contains enough potash and phosphoric acid to support most crops on a 
rod of ground, but they must be applied in a fresh state to the soil, or 
if stored for future application, be sure they are kept dry. Leached 
ashes either from the lye-tub or from open heaps long exposed are 
hardly worth distribution. When ashes are placed in the soil their 
manurial properties are not easily washed out, but they rapidly pass 
from the ash heap into the soil where they are not wanted, and like the 
drainings of manure heaps, represent liquid gold wasted. 
Mixing Blood and Wood Ashes (^Staffordshire Cottager ).— 
Blood and wood ashes are rather difficult to mix, not because of the 
coagulation of the blood with the wood ashes, but through the blood 
being already in that state and not readily divisible. If you stir the 
blood while warm until it cools, so as to prevent its coagulation, then 
there is no difficulty about the mixing. The blood being caught in 
a pail should be stirred briskly, and a handful of wood ashes at a time 
mixed with if, continuing this until a thick paste is formed; then 
turn out on a hard floor sprinkled with wood ashes, and spreading more 
wood ashes on the heap, mix thoroughly with a shovel as in making 
mortar, and having formed a crumbly mortar-like mass, sprinkle wood 
ashes over the heap and leave to dry. When dried it will break up into 
a powdery substance unexcelled as a manure for every kind of flower, 
fruit, or vegetable crop. The wood ashes must be dry and preferably 
heated to a temperature of 90° to 100° for mixing with the warm 
blood. If the blood is allowed to coagulate, it is best to dry it 
thoroughly and then grind it in a mill, as is done in manure works, 
though it may be pounded on a hard floor and made fine enough for 
distribution, adding an equal proportion of dry wood ashes and pure 
dissolved bone, mixing, and using about 4 ozs. per square yard. Or 
when the blood has clotted and is rancid, pour muriatic acid upon it at 
the rate of 4 ozs. to 16 lbs. of blood, stir, and add 16 lbs. of dry wood 
ashes, mixing well. When dry break up, and use as a top-dressing. 
The better plan is to mix the wood ashes with the blood before it 
coagulates. 
Booting Chrysanthemums (Young Beginner ).—You cannot do 
better than insert cuttings of your Chrysanthemums at once if they are 
in the condition described. All persons who grow for exhibition take 
cuttings during November and December ; in fact, as early as they can 
obtain them. They will not be too early for you if inserted now. It is 
a good plan to insert them singly in thumb pots under hand-lights in 
a cool Peach house or vinery. By adopting this method the plants 
receive no check—the hotbed is unnecessary. From the hand-lights the 
plants may be removed to frames and protected only from frost. 
Gradually harden them, and then give abundance of air. Treated thus 
the young plants are grown strong from the first. All that are intended 
for bushes should be pinched when they are well rooted, and the growths 
they make are generally very vigorous. When 3 inches in length pinch 
the plants again. You may safely continue this practice, if neces¬ 
sary, until the beginning of May, when the shoots should be 
allowed to extend and only branch afterwards in a natural manner, 
which they may do again at the end of June or early in July. The 
buds that show during August must be “ taken.” If you manage the 
plants well there is no difficulty in having nine good blooms on a plant 
that will be creditable to you for purposes of decoration. When blooms 
are needed for cutting for filling various sized vases, however, some 
naturally grown free-flowering kinds, especially Japanese, prove in¬ 
valuable. Do not pinch in July, only take natural breaks then. 
Plants stopped in May and then allowed to grow often produce buds 
in August, about the right time. Your potting arrangements are satis¬ 
factory. 
Camellias Dropping their Buds (Tonng Beginner). — The 
buds of Camellias will certainly fall if the plants are allowed to become 
dry at their roots. Exhaustion will also bring about the same result. 
A very dry atmosphere after the buds have formed, for even a few days, 
will cause the buds to fall, or the flowers, hy the time they are half or 
fully expanded. The mischief is frequently done weeks before bud¬ 
falling is observed. Another cause, and a very likely one in your 
case, is unripened wood, if the trees grow as luxuriantly as you describe. 
If these plants are fully exposed to the sun and given abundance of air 
from the time the foliage is fully developed, or the wood commences to 
ripen and form buds, if well watered at their roots, the buds should not 
drop. All Camellias are flowering long before their proper time this 
year, especially those that have been kept under glass. This is due to 
the long spell of bright sunshine we have had, and the higher tempera- 
