December 14, 1893,] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
643 
WOKK.fo^ItheWEEK., 
HAEDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Winter Pruning^.—It is desirable to begin and complete this 
operation during the present month, as it is better to relieve trees and 
bushes of superfluous wood as soon as possible after the fall of the 
leaves. Though trees apparently are at rest there is yet a certain 
amount of activity prevailing which is seen in the gradual plumping 
and swelling of the buds, this process continuing all the winter. If 
pruning is deferred until early spring the buds intended to remain are 
deprived of much support they might otherwise receive when they 
have not to share it with useless growths. Mild, dry weather is the 
best time for pruning operations, hard frosty weather the worst. Much 
may be done on a slight frosty day, the ground being clean to walk 
Hpon, and the work not unpleasant. 
Pyramid and Bush Trees. —Trained trees, well established, with the 
branches sufficiently wide apart to admit sun and light to each through¬ 
out the entire length, will need only the side shoots pruning to three 
buds, leaving the leading growths about a foot in length, or less if 
extension is not desired. Trees in the course of formation, having well 
ripened leading growths not too long, need not have these shortened 
severely, the removal of the points, which are invariably blossom buds 
and would prevent extension, being usually sufficient. Long immature 
shoots must be shortened back to firm wood, cutting near to a bud 
pointing in the right direction, making a short, sloping cut, which leaves 
no snags to die back. Remove dead spurs or wood, and of the spurs 
remaining any which are unduly elongated shorten back, also thin out 
crowded clumps. The access of light and air to the interior of the 
trees will then strengthen weak fruit buds. 
Standard Trees, —The mistaken practice of shortening the branches 
of fully formed trees to any extent results in filling the interior and 
the upper branches with useless shoots. Properly managed standard 
trees require little pruning. Rank, gross growths when they appear 
may be cut out entirely. Branches extending beyond the bounds which 
mark a shapely, well balanced tree are better shortened to where other 
branches originate, this preventing the production of strong young 
growth likely to crowd the trees and make them unfruitful. Remove 
branches crossing one another, as well as those thickly and ill-placed. 
The advantages of having the branches thinly disposed, not only in 
winter, but in the summer, so that every part can receive the full benefit 
of abundant air and light, will quickly be apparent in early and con¬ 
tinued fruitfulness, thus reducing severe pruning to a minimum. 
Coidon Trees. — Upright, diagonal, and horizontal cordon-trained 
trees are easily managed, if the proper attention is accorded in the 
summer in stopping the side shoots, and, when the full extent of space 
is not covered, allowing the leaders to extend. Young trees well 
managed in these respects will soon be furnished from the base upwards 
with fruit buds. The pruning necessary at this season consists in 
reducing to two or three buds the summer-pruned shoots, slightly 
reducing elongated spurs, and thinning out where much crowded any 
clusters of spurs on aged cordons. As a rule immediately fruit bearing 
commences on young cordons over-vigorous growth of side shoots and 
leaders will be subdued, but should strong shoots assert themselves 
unduly, which cannot be restricted by summer pruning, lifting the trees 
when the leaves fall will restore the balance. 
Fan-shai)ed Trees. —This form of training fruit trees is one of the 
best, because of the readiness with which branches can be replaced. It 
admits also of the combination method in the case of stone fruit trees 
by which fruit is produced on spurs as well as on young wood of one or 
two years’ growth. Morello Cherries, Pe'^ches, Nectarines, and Apricots 
produce fruit freely and best on healthy shoots of medium strength 
developed the previous season, but they will also bear on spurs. Plums 
and dessert Cherries on walls should have the branches well furnished 
with spurs by summer pinching, and the intervening spaces occupied 
with young wood thinly disposed, which will bear the second year. The 
chief pruning, therefore, consists of cutting out the old bearing wood and 
training in succession shoots, stopping those not well placed in summer 
to form spurs. Plums and Cherries may be pruned now. Peaches, 
Nectarines, and Apricots in February. 
Bush Fruit. —Birds begin their depredations among Gooseberry and 
Currant bushes earlier than many people suspect, therefore it is not well 
to prune Gooseberry trees severely, but merely to thin out crowded 
shoots and branches, leaving a good proportion of young wood for future 
bearing. This may be done now or in spring, but whether the bushes 
are pruned or left alone they should be well dusted with soot or lime, 
applying either when the trees are wet with dew, fog, or rain. The buds 
are thus rendered distasteful to the birds, who in a great measure leave 
them alone so long as the bitter deposit adheres to the shoots. 
?If Red and White Currants have a great proportion of the buds 
picked out on the spurred-in shoots the following crop of fruit will be 
light. Cotton or worsted run in lines over the trees will prevent birds 
taking the buds, but the best protection is to grow the trees under wire 
netting, forming a fruit cage from which birds can be excluded during 
winter, and when the fruit is ripe. At other times they should have 
free access to the trees, or insects may become rampant. Shorten the 
leading shoots of Currants to 8 or 9 inches, the side growths to an inch. 
Black Currants may have the old worn out shoots cut away, maintaining 
a good selection of vigorous young growths from the base which bear 
the finest fruit. No spurring-in of side shoots or shortening the leaders 
except where extending beyond bounds is necessary. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Earliest House. —After the buds break the temperature will 
need to be increased to 60'' at night in mild weather, and 55° in severe, 
gradually increasing it so as to have it at 60° at night when the Vines 
are in leaf, and 70° to 75° by day with moderate ventilation. If there 
are evaporation troughs in the house, keep them regularly charged with 
liquid manure. Where these do not exist, and there is no fermenting 
bed, guano water, I lb. to 20 gallons of water, or the urinary drainings 
of stables and cowhouses, diluted with six times the bulk of water, may 
be sprinkled on the floor and surfaces of borders in the late afternoon, 
two or three times a week. Vines in pots will require more nourishment 
as the growth advances, supplying liquid manure at the temperature of 
the house. Sprinkle the house two or three times a day in clear weather, 
avoiding a very close and too damp or a dry atmosphere. Tie up the 
Vines in position as soon as growth has commenced in the lowest buds, 
always before the shoots are so long as to be damaged by the process. 
Disbudding should not be practised until the fruit shows in the points 
of the shoots. 
Houses to have Fruit Pipe in, May. —The Vines for this purpose must 
be started without delay, for quite five months are necessary to secure 
fruit of the early varieties during the winter and spring months. To 
facilitate a good break, and to save fuel, a bed of stable litter and leaves 
in equal parts, placed on the floor of the house, turning a portion of it 
daily, so as to supply ammonia, is useful. The outside border must also 
have the needful protection from cold rains and snow, If the roots 
of the Vines are mainly inside, a covering of leaves about 6 inches 
thick, and a little litter over them to prevent their being blown about 
by wind, will afford the needful protection. Where the roots are chiefly 
outside a covering of warm litter after the Vines break will materially 
assiit root action and the supply of nourishment; two-thirds leaves to 
one-third of stable litter affording a less violent heat, but more lasting 
than all manure. This material once put on must be kept at a regular heat 
by adding fresh as necessary and removing some of the spent. The 
inside borders should be made thoroughly moist, but not soddened, by 
applying water, or in the case of weakly Vines, liquid manure at the 
mean temperature of the house—preferably 5° in advance of it. It 
suffices if the soil is moderately moist until the Vines break. Start with 
a temperature of 50° in severe weather, 55° in mild weather, and 65° by 
day, except the weather is severe and dull, when 55° will be more 
suitable. Maintain a moist atmosphere by syringing the Vines and 
house occasionally, but avoid excessive moisture and keeping the rods 
dripping wet, for this excites the production of aerial roots from the 
rods. Depress young canes to the horizontal position or below to cause 
the buds to break regularly. 
Midseason Houses. —The Vines will, in most cases, be pruned and at 
rest. If not, the pruning and cleansing of the house and Vines should 
be attended to without delay, for late pruning favours bleeding and 
insect pests immensely. Where the Grapes are partially cut the 
remainder may be removed with a good portion of wood attached, and 
that inserted in bottles of water, with a piece of charcoal in each, will 
keep the Grapes admirably in a dry room from which frost is excluded. 
This will liberate the Vines for pruning (it being assumed that the 
leaves are all down) and the house for cleaning, repairs and painting. 
The Vines ought only to have the loose bark removed, be washed with 
soapy tepid water, and afterwards with an insecticide. If they have 
been infested with scale or mealy bug add a fluid ounce of petroleum to 
a gallon of water in which 4 ozs. of softsoap has been dissolved, and 
churn violently with a syringe until the oil is well mixed with 
the solution, which is best effected at a temperature as high as the hand 
can bear, and then applied in a tepid state to the Vines with a stiffish 
brush, reaching well into every angle, crevice, and hole. Remove the 
surface soil without disturbing the roots, and supply a top-dressing of 
fresh loam about a couple of inches thick, and sprinkle over it a good 
handful of bonemeal and a similar amount of wood ashes (from twigs) 
per square yard. Both will be diffused through the soil, and be in a 
condition for taking up with the roots by the time the Vines start into 
growth, when they can be fed with quick acting manures. 
Late Houses. —When the foliage is all down fire heat will only he 
necessary to exclude frost in dry weather, taking care to admit air 
before the sun acts on the house so as to cause moisture to be condensed 
on the berries, for in that case the skin of the Grapes will become dis¬ 
coloured and rapidly decay. A temperature of 50° by artificial means 
dries the atmosphere too much to preserve thin-skinned Grapes, such as 
Black Hamburghs, in sound condition—that is, without shrivelling. 
Muscats, Lady Downe’s and Gros Colman require a temperature of 50° 
until thoroughly matured, and then a dry and equable temperature of 
40° to 50° will insure their sound keeping, but a close, damp atmosphere 
causes the berries of Gros Colman to split and those of Muscat of 
Alexandria to spot, and the end of their keeping is then begun. 
Potted Trees.—Fox the early supply of Figs experience has 
proved the advantage of the pot over the planted out system. Trees in 
pots forced early for a number of years become more fruitful as they 
advance in age, and they commence growth as the usual time of starting 
