JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 21, 1893. 
t:62 
in the Journal concerning Roses that it is almost unnecessary to 
say anything about them. One is, however, in a difficulty this 
year ; I generally mulch my beds at this season, but this year, 
owing to the failure of our cereals, it is impossible to get straw, 
and I have been obliged to get moss litter instead. This will not 
do for mulching, and consequently all that I can do is to earth up 
the plants as if they were Potatoes, and in lieu of the nutriment 
they would get from the farmyard manure I must supply them 
with larger and more frequent doses of liquid manure later on. 
Tulips. 
Of these I have little to say, as I am not in the strict sense of 
the term a Tulip grower. I possess a bed of fairly good kinds, and 
these I have been able to plant in good condition a little later 
perhaps than the orthodox time, which used to be considered the 
•Oth of November. I hardly look forward to the resuscitation of 
the taste for Tulips which I remember to have been so general in 
my younger days; they are still much sought after and valued in 
■the north of England, though about the metropolis and the south I 
see but little signs of a revival. I fear that they entail too much 
trouble to suit the style of gardening which is prevalent in our days. 
There is one thing which munt be carefully looked after as 
regards those plants of whatever kind which are wintered in cold 
frames, namely, their protection from frost; when this sets in the 
■frames should be covered with mats or other warm material and 
the plants kept perfectly dry, and it will then be found that the 
frost does little or no injury to them.—D., Deal. 
BLACKBERRIES. 
Tue Bramble or Blackberry is a common shrub in the hedge¬ 
rows, copses, and woods of this country. It produces an abundance 
of fine fruits, which are oftentimes gathered and made remunerative. 
Blackberries are esteemed by rich and poor for their good qualities, 
either raw, cooked in pies or puddings, or preserved, the jam being 
wholesome and of a very rich flavour. They also furnish an excellent 
home-made wine. Several varieties of the Blackberry have been 
-originated in America, either by cultivation, selection, or cross¬ 
fertilisation, large, handsome, juicy, rich flavoured fruits, and withal 
-very pioductive. These varieties, however, have not proved satis¬ 
factory in this country, they requiring warm weather in May or June, 
and good harvest weather to ripen their fruit and canes. The two 
most generally cultivated are the Parsley-leaved and Wilson Junior. 
The former has large, black, juicy, richly flavoured fruits. It is an 
immense bearer, a vigoious plant of three or four years’ growth 
trained to a trellis or wall, yielding 100 to 120 quarts of berries in a 
season. Its habit is very robust and trailing, producing canes 10 to 
15 feet lung, which push laterals the following year 2 feet long, 
bearing rose-coloured flowers in July, and splendid fruit in August 
..onwards. It is hardy and reliable, a selected form of R. laciniatus, 
.. and superior to it. Wilson Junior has also large, black, juicy, and 
richh'- flavoured fruits. It is a medium grower and very prolific. 
Blackberries are best increased from cuttings of the roots, and 
-covering the joints of the shoots with soil. Root-cuttings are obtained 
'by digging up the roots and cutting them into pieces about 2 inches 
placing these about 3 inches apart and the same depth in light 
soil in the autumn or early spring. Layering the points of the canes 
in August or September is soon followed by stocky young plants. 
As soon as the tips grow nearly bare of leaves and become dark in 
colour, peg them into the ground 3 or 4 inches at an angle of about 
45®. In a month to six weeks they will form roots, and can be cut off 
and planted where required. To obtain strong plants, stop a vigorous 
young growth when 2 feet high, this will cause it to throw out 
several laterals, and the points of these layered early become wmll 
rooted by the autumn. 
The Blackberry neither likes cold wet clay nor poor dr}' soil, but 
a deep, free, fertile medium, and of such they are worthy. It must 
be free from stagnant water, yet moisture should be within reach of 
■ their roots. 'J he smaller and younger the plants, providing they are 
'Well rooted, the safer they are removed, and more satisfactory*they 
glow afterwards. They are best planted in the autumn, not exposing 
the roots needlessly, such exposure being one reason why a large 
“per centage of these plants often die. Spring planting may be 
•practised if the conditions named are carried out, subsequently water¬ 
ing and mulching to insure uniform moisture in the soil. The canes 
■■ahould be cut down after planting also in the second year if the growth 
■IS not strong. Wilson Junior may be planted in rows 5 feet apart 
and 3 feet between the canes in the rows Strong growing sorts like 
■he Parsley-leaved require much morespace—namely, the rows should 
not be less than 9 feet apart, and the plants 4:^ feet asunder in them, 
a a • fo stakes or trellises. Trellises are best fixed about 
'■^o inches from the line of plants, so that the fruiting canes may be 
lOeat over to them, thus allowing the young canes to come up 
separate from the bearing canes, which facilitates picking the fruit. 
The Parsley-leaved variety is excellent for covering old walls and 
training over arches. Dispose the canes thinly and cut them out 
after frui iog, having a supply of strong summer growths which 
have not been crowded to secure in the place of those removed. 
Blackberry plants, well treated in the first and second year after 
planting out, will afford considerable fruit in the third summer, some 
in the second, if the plants make good canes the first year, and in the 
third or fourth year, as the case may be, they will fruit bounteously. 
How long they will bear profitably depends on the soil and treatment. 
In good soil and with generous treatment the plants will continue 
bearing satisfactorily for ten years, but if the old stools become weak, 
the shoots are thin, and the fruit small, the Blackberry grower will 
anticipate this by making new plantations in advance of cutting out 
the old plants.—G. Abbey. 
SETTING UP WIND-BLOWN TREES. 
The gale of November 18th was almost as noteworthy for the 
damage wrought by its influence on plantations as the one of October 
14th, 1881. Some estates that suffered severely then were little the 
worse this one, while some that escaped last time have been all but 
ruined now. A feature of these gales, which may easily escape notice, 
is the harm they do to growing trees which apparently are unscathed but 
which may be loosened at the roots, or so torn at the forks or clefts in 
the main branches that they either die slowly where they stand, or in some 
gale in the near future are limbed or uprooted. I particularly noticed 
trees that succumbed this time which had been loosened years ago, and 
during the height of the last gale I saw many trees with loosened roots 
that it would be impossible to observe had received any harm directly 
the wind had fallen. 
In portions of tie pleasure grounds hardly a Conifer, Holly, or Yew 
escaped without being either loosened or blown more or less from the 
perpendicular. Two trees were laid prone. With one there was no 
difficulty in placing upright, as it had been only a dozen years planted ; 
but the other, a Yew 45 feet in height, and with a spread of branches 
of over 30 feet, and of unknown age, could only be uplifted by means 
of powerful appliances. As there is certain to be many trees of large 
dimensions that their owners would gladly see placed in an upright 
position if sure it can be done, and the tree not suffer much afterwards, 
the details of the method we use may be helpful. 
In the first place it will be perceived that little more than one-half 
of the roots are torn from the ground, and that the chances of success 
with healthy, well rooted trees are therefore good. If the tree is old 
and many of the roots decayed the chance of the tree surviving is very 
slight. Another point is that the tree must either be set upright without 
loss of time, or if this cannot be undertaken at once, then the roots 
slijuld be covered with moist material until it can be done. If there is 
a staff of men sufficient to allow them to work in two sections, so 
many may proceed to make an excavation 2 or 3 feet wider than the 
broken roots extend, and deep enough to allow the roots to be buried 
somewhat deeper than they had been growing. The reason for doing 
this is that they may have a wider range of good soil to feed upon for 
the first two years, and also that they may be less affected by dry 
weather, at the same time that the increased depth of soil is a help to 
keeping the tree more secure. A cartload of good fresh soil ought also 
to be placed in the bottom of the excavation lor the roots to lay upon, 
meanwhile the other men are engaged in raising the tree. A powerful 
Fcrewjack facilitates this operation, and two of these are much better 
than one, as there is then no need for propping the tree, as there is 
v/ith only one jack every time that a fresh lift is made. 
When the tree is raised sufficiently to work block and tackle, the 
jack is dispensed with, and the tree drawn into position by means of 
strong ropes. If there is no tree or other means of attaching the further 
end of the tackle to, an efficient *‘grip” is obtained by placing a cart filled 
with stones, side on, and about 60 to 80 yards away from the tree. The 
rope is run underneath the cart in a line with the axle and attached to 
the nave of the further wheel on the outside. The “ pull ” is downward, 
as well as toward the tree, and even without the aid of a strong stake 
driven in to keep the last from moving, I have seen large trees success¬ 
fully drawn up. For moderately large trees, two strong stakes driven 
3 or 4 feet into the ground, and lying at an angle of 45° away from the 
liees, the rope being attached close to the ground, is fairly safe and good. 
A double block and tackle is much better than a single one. Guy ropes 
are safe for keeping the tree from swaying, and as the stem is gradually 
drawn nearer the perpendicular, struts must be kept moved to support 
the tree in case of accident to the tackle. 
The Yew above referred to, owing to its great weight of branches 
and foliage, broke a rope three times before it was brought to an upright 
position. Through being securely supported with struts we did not 
lose anything, and at the same time saved the tree and other 
shrubs from further damage. I put four cartloads of good soil about 
the roots of this tree, and about six tons of stones above the roots 
to steady the tree, and in addition to three wooden supports tied to each 
other, four strong wire ropes guy the tree. These are secured to oaken 
posts driven into the ground. Keep the roots from drought, especially 
during the first year, and an occasional surface dressing of good soil or 
manure is of the utmost benefit to trees that have been uprooted and 
lifted to their old positions.—B., East Lothian. 
