December 21, 1893 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
666 
the temperature at 40° at night, 40° to 45° by day, ventilating at 50°, 
and closing at that temperature. Syringe the trees early on fine after¬ 
noons, omitting it if there is danger of the buds not becoming dry 
before nightfall. The border will be sufficiently moist through the 
removal of the roof lights, water seldom being required under those 
circumstances until the fruit commences swelling. If not in a healthy 
state supply water to bring it into a thoroughly moist condition. If 
dry trees in pots will require repeated supplies of water to secure the 
thorough moistening of the soil to the base. In a light, airy, properly 
heated structure Cherries are readily forced when established in pots 
and grown under glass a year previous. Early Rivers, Black Tartarian, 
and Governor Wood are excellent varieties. Half-stHndards are the best 
for pots, or such length of stem as will give heads well up to the glass. 
Cucumbers.— The weather has been favourable to Cucumber plants, 
there having been a fair amount of sunshine. Light is very important 
in the cultivation of the Cucumber in the winter, and now the days are 
so short keep the glass as clean as possible both inside and outside. Do 
not supply strong liquid manure too freely. It should be tepid, and is 
better varied than always the same. Top-dressings of sweet rich com¬ 
post applied to the roots promote vigour, supplying a little at a time 
and often, always previously warmed and in a moist root-favouring 
condition. Do not overcrop the plants, and do not allow the fruit 
to hang too long. They keep fresh several days after being cut if the 
stems are inserted in saucers of water in moderate beat. Remove super¬ 
fluous fruits and growths as they appear, and tie the shoots as necessary. 
Red spider and white fly are best subdued by painting the hot-water 
pipes lightly with a cream formed of flowers of sulphur and skim milk. 
It is also effectual against mildew. It is a good plan to sponge any 
infected leaves with a solution of softsoap on the first appearance of 
red spider, 2 ozs. to a gallon of water sufficing, aud dust flowers of sul¬ 
phur on any parts affected with mildew. Green or black aphides 
succumb to dusting with tobacco powder, or careful fumigation on a 
calm evening, repeating in the following morning early. 
Where early Cucumbers or Melons are obtained from frames, and 
there are no other means of raising the plants, some fresh Oak or Ileech 
leaves with one-third of stable litter ought now to be thrown together, 
and, if necessary, be moistened so as to induce fermentation. The heap 
should be turned when warmed through alike to sweeten, to bring all 
into a genial condition by turning the outside to the inside. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb. —Where a regular supply 
of Asparagus has to be kept up with the aid of mild hotbeds in pits or 
frames, fresh roots have to be lifted and introduced into this heat at 
least every three weeks, shorter intervals being desirable if the demand 
is heavy and the roots plentiful. Should we once more experience extra 
severe frosts of long duration during January, this will greatly interfere 
with the work of lifting the roots, especially if no precautions have 
been taken of either heavily covering a portion of the old bed or that of 
lifting enough roots, storing them in a shed cr other place where they 
can be covered with fine moist soil and plenty of litter. On no account 
ought the roots to be long exposed to frosty air or be dried in any way, 
as this will have the effect of greatly weakening the top growth. 
Seakale should also be lifted and stored in moist soil in readiness 
for placing in the Mushtoom house or a warm dark corner. The 
crowns of the old purple-topped form are usually quite hardy, but not 
80 those of the Lily White, and these ought, theiefore, in particular to be 
either lifted and protected or be coveied with ashes or litter where they 
now are. Rhubarb requires no protection, but a severe frost may render 
it impossible to lift the clumps when most wanted for forcing, and some 
of these again should either be got up in readiness for forcing or be 
protected where growing. If any roots of either Seakale or Rhubarb 
are being forced in the open ground, the heating material should be 
examined frequently. When largely composed of leaves these may 
become cold and saturated, and require livening up with a little stable 
manure or fresh drier leaves. If stable manure has been principally or 
solely used, then overheating, especially after a change from cold windy 
to mild weather, may occur. Remedy the latter dangerous occurrence 
by opening out the heating material, banking over the tubs or pots 
again according as this can safely be done. 
Kidney Beans —These require a brisk heat, or say that of a 
Cucumber house or Pine stove, as much light as possible, and should be 
carefully watered. Syringing is not necessary, but if the pots are fairly 
well filled with roots a little soot water or other liquid manure may well 
be given occasionally. Sion House is one of the best for early forcing; 
Ne Plus Ultra and the dwarf Osborn’s Forcing also being suitable. New 
seed will always germinate the most quickly and strongly, the plants 
throughout being of superior vigour to any obtained from old seed. If 
wanted up quickly set the pots direct on ihe hot-water pipes. Not less 
than twenty-five pots should be filled at once, the sowings being divided 
by intervals of from a fortnight to three weeks. Nine-inch pots answer 
well when properly drained, and nothing better than old Chrysanthemum 
soil can be used. 
Saladlngr. —If there are any signs of the Endive not holding out 
well, or if Lettuces are always in demand, seed of any White Cos form 
may be sown moderately thickly in pans or boxes of fairly rich soil, and 
placed in heat to germinate. Before the plants become drawn and 
damping sets in, transfer to shelves near the glass in a warm greenhouse 
or other structure where a gentle heat is constantly maintained. There 
should be no thinning out, the aim being to have a number of plants for 
cutting over Mustard and Cress fashion when about 4 inches or rather 
more in height. Sow seeds in two or three boxes at a time every ^ 
fortnight for succession. Early raised plants of either Golden Queen or 
Early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuces force admirably in beds of good 
soil on the top of a gentle hotbed, excellent hearts being had late in 
March or early in April. Sow some seeds soon, and treat very much as 
advised in the case of the Cos varieties for cutting young, only there 
should be no crowding of the plants. Much Endive ought not, therefore, 
to be introduced into these warm dark places at one time, but rather a 
few plants each time at fortnightly intervals. Sow Mustard and Cress 
rather frequently, or every week; perfectly fresh good soil should be 
used every time. Sow the seed thickly, the Cress on the surface and the 
Mustard nearly so; keep the soil uniformly moist, and cover with mats 
or brown paper till the salading is IJ inch in height, when it may be 
gradually exposed. 
Seed Potatoes. —These ought from the first to have been separated 
from and treated differently to the ware or cooking Potatoes, Should 
all have been stored together then ought the first favourable oppor¬ 
tunity be taken of separating them, or otherwise those intended for 
planting will, in common with the rest, sprout prematurely, and be 
greatly weakened accordingly. It has been repeatedly proved that 
much the best results attend the practice of planting medium-sized 
whole tubers in preference to either small or cut sets. Therefore 
select and store the requisite number of medium-sized tubers rather 
thinly, and in a cool light place. They ought not to be stored in deep 
baskets or boxes. If there are no suitable sheds let the seed Potatoes 
follow Apples on the shelves in fruit rooms. The Ashleafs ought to be 
stored in a single layer on smallest ends in shallow boxes or trays, as 
should they lose their first strong sprout their value will be greatly 
reduced. If a severe frost be anticipated all ought to be well protected, 
but uncover after the frosts are over. If it is intended to force Potatoes 
early either in pots, boxes, or pits, select a good short-topped early 
variety, such as Mona’s Pride, Old Ashleaf, and Sharpe’s Victor, and 
start them into active growth in a vinery or Peach house. 
Ware Potatoes. —Allowing these to form long sprouts greatly 
detracts from their quality when cooked, and should be prevented as 
much as possible. When outside work cannot well be proceeded with, 
the men may be employed in turning heaps of Potatoes, any that 
are diseased being thrown out, and sprouts just beginning to form 
on the rest rubbed off. Avoid storing them in great heaps, keep them 
dark, and protect heavily whenever severe frosts are imminent. Potatoes 
in clamps ought also to be examined, and if need be turned and treated 
as just advised. A dry mild day should be chosen for this work, and 
the heap be again heavily covered with dry straw banked over with 
soil. 
i 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
• I . I . r. 
M 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather and Bees. 
The weather for the past few months has been of a most 
changeable nature, calms and storms following one another in 
quick succession, the same with high and low temperatures. On 
the 8th, 9th, and 10th of December the thermometer ranged 
between 9° and 32°, and on the 11th it stood nearly all day 
at 51°. Storms were even more sudden, a main feature in 
them being their eccentricity in blowing furiously in narrow and 
diversified tracks. The great storm on the 17th ult. that de¬ 
vastated some parts in the north of Scotland, was with us, com¬ 
paratively speaking, very moderate, but the one on the 8th inst. 
proved of a more furious character. Fortunately, however, our hives 
were unmoved, although fully exposed to the full force of the gale. 
Since October bees have not been long confined to their hives, 
but at the beginning of November, early in the season as it was, 
several hives of bees that came under my notice showed signs of 
abdominal distension, and there were more dead bees at each than 
were at the whole of my hives last winter. The cause was 
not far to seek. These hives had young queens hatched in Aueust. 
They were bent on breeding, and did so to a great extent. The 
longest wintry weather at one stretch being the end of October and 
beginning of November, the young bees did not get an airing in 
time, hence their succumbing to the protracted confinement. I 
have repeatedly shown the fallacy of the doctrine that aged bees 
constitute a dwindling apiary, and that one of increase can only be 
insured by having late bred bees, also that bees live during working 
weather six weeks only. I possess at least half a dozen hives that 
have had very few bees bred in them since June. The aged bees 
are numerous, and I have no hesitation in saying many of them 
will be alive next May, yet I never experienced a more trying time 
for bees during the two months they were at the Heather than I 
did this year. The first month was very stormy, and the other 
windy, if with less rain, and often the bees had great difficulty in 
reaching their hives. But they are still alive, although according 
to the theory propounded every one should have been dead by the 
middle of July. Bees are never old and prepared to die until their 
wings become ragged and unable to bear their bodies aloft. 
