©aoember 28, 1893.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
681 
take ofE the rough bark of the trunks and large branches of the fruit 
trees with scrapers, and brush every part with stiff carpet brushes. 
They place cloths round the tree to catch the pieces of bark and the 
weevils that are dislodged ; these are collected and burnt. Sometimes 
limewash is put on the trees after the scraping. Others apply com¬ 
positions of lime and naphthaline or petroleum. 
Limewashing the trees is not effective against insects unless the 
rough bark is cleared off, and the limewash thoroughly worked into 
every cranny while it is fresh. 
It is most difficult to use insecticides, and insectifuges, with advantage, 
as compositions that are strong enough to kill or drive away the weevils 
would probably injure the tender buds. After the larva is within the 
bud it is hopeless to attempt to reach it. 
A m<^e of decreasing the number of weevils adopted in France 
consists in shaking the branches to make the insects fall on to cloths 
spread below. Cloths—old rick-cloths being best—are cut and arranged 
so as to fit close round the trunks of the trees. Labourers get into the 
trees and shake the branches violently, and others, with the aid of long 
poles with hooks at the ends, .shake the branches within reach. The 
cloths are quickly swept with brooms, and the debris and the weevils are 
shovelled into sacks. This must be done rapidly, before the weevils can 
fly away. It is said that four men and two boys treated 110 trees in a 
day in this manner. 
From experiments made, it has been found necessary to perform this 
operation two or three times on each tree, as all the weevils are not 
shaken off at once. From a tree, for instance, from which at the first 
shaking 1000 weevils had fallen, 385 were shaken off five hours later. 
In one orchard of 8 acres, having 347 trees, nearly 450,000 weevils were 
destroyed in three days, at a cost of £1. A satisfactory crop of Apples 
was obtained. 
It should be pointed out that this operation must be carried out 
before the weevils have laid their eggs, and upon their first appearance, 
commencing with the earliest varieties. 
This mode of destroying the Apple blossom weevils might be advan¬ 
tageously practised in Great Britain. It might also be useful in case of 
attacks of winter moth and other caterpillars. It need hardly be pointed 
out that the fruit growers in districts should combine to wage war in 
this fashion simultaneously, and with care and energy .—{Board of 
Agriculture.') 
WOKK-FoutoeWEEK.. S 
^^1 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Protectlngr Outdoor Plgr Trees.— In all but the most favourably 
situated positions Fig tiees require protection frum the severest frosts. 
A ready method of insuring the safety of trees on walls is to unfasten 
the whole of the branches, tying them compactly together in bundles ; 
and when severe frosts are imminent dry bracken or straw may be 
packed over them also, enclosing the main stem, which needs protection 
equally with the branches. Archangel mats nailed over all will make 
everything neat and tidy. 
Heading: Down Fruit Trees for Craftlngr.— Large-limbed fruit 
trees, which it is intended to graft in the spring with scions of better 
varieties, should now be headed down to points within a short distance 
of the junction of the branches with the main stem, leaving, however, a 
sufficient length to each stump so that a portion may be removed at 
grafting time, the bark adjoining a new cut working easier than that 
around an old one. 
Preserving- Scions for Grafting. — During the operation of 
pruning Apple and Pear trees well-ripened portions of the current year’s 
wood may be selected for furnishing scions, laying them nearly the 
whole of their length in trenches made in a cool, shady position, where 
they will remain dormant until wanted. It is essential that the scions 
be cut before the least swelling of the buds takes place, and they are 
best secured in mild weather during the next few weeks. 
Hints on Winter Planting Fruit Trees.— There are many 
favourable opportunities when young new trees may be planted or 
specimens of several years’ growth removed from one part of the garden 
to another. The best time is just when the leaves fall, but it is not 
always possible to accomplish the work then, and if carefully done now 
there is no reason why trees should not thrive afterwards. They will 
do so if the most important rules laid down for planting are strictly 
followed. The weather should be mild and comparatively dry in order 
that the soil may work easily without clinging tenaciously to the boots 
of the workman, or render his spade difficult to use. Soil in this state 
may be placed about the roots without fear. Its friability may be 
increased by mixing with it a small portion of dry wood ashes, which 
will favour the healing of the roots and an early commencement of 
root action. All broken roots must be cut smooth, and secure staking 
adopted along with the planting, afterwards a mulch of fairly short and 
dry littery manure will prevent the entry of frost. Newly planted 
trees ought not at the present time to be watered. The soil is moist 
enough in all cases, and quite sufficient for the requirements of roots in 
an inactive state. 
IVIanurlng Bush Fruit.— After the pruning of these is completed 
and the prunings cleared away, spread a coating of half-decayed 
farmyard manure under and between the bushes that need the dressing, 
lightly forking it into the ground wherever such is not occupied with 
roots. The soil immediately under the branches is, in well established 
bushes, mostly crowded with masses of fibrous roots which ought to be 
left undisturbed. Merely spread the manure over them, leaving it to 
decay, but, if desirable, it may be covered with a thin coating of soil. 
Gooseberry bushes that have been badly affected with caterpillars in 
summer ought, if practicable, to have the surface soil removed a couple 
of inches from under the spread of the branches, which will clear away 
the pupae of caterpillars in hiding there for the winter. Such soil 
should be deeply buried between the bushes in the spaces free from roots, 
accompanied with a dressing of lime. If not convenient to remove the 
soil make the ground white with lime. The soil from the trench mixed 
with some short manure can be spread over the roots. 
Dressing- Fruit Trees. —Allowing insects and parasitical growths 
to infest fruit trees soon brings them into an enfeebled condition. Those 
pests which infest the branches and stems and once fairly established 
are always more or less in evidence if means to check them are not 
continually waged, Winter is the best time to carry on the work of 
insect eradication. 
Moss and Lichens .—To rid trees of these incrustations, lime used 
in conjunction with soot and sulphur is a good destroyer. In preparing 
a mixture of this kind add to four parts of hot lime two parts of soot 
and three of sulphur, mixing all together in strong soapsuds to the 
consistency of paint. On applying this with a brush to all affected 
parts of trees it will not only destroy the (growths referred to, but 
insects concealed in the bark as well. Previously, however, the 
thickest of the growths should be carefully scraped off either with a 
wooden spatula or piece of hoop iron, being cautious not to injure the 
bark. The soda and potash mixture recommended on page 522 is 
excellent for cleansing the branches of fruit trees or bushes. 
American Blight and Scale .—These insects require the use of strong 
and persistent measures to fully exterminate them from fruit trees. An 
emulsion of softsoap and petroleum at the rate of a wineglassful of 
the latter to a gallon of water in which 3 ozs. of softsoap has been 
dissolved will destroy all the insects it reaches. Combine the oil 
and soapy water with a force pump, applying it to the trees at a 
temperature of 100°. Badly infested trees ought first to be well washed 
with a stronger solution of softsoap, not less than 4 ozs. to the gallon, 
using it at the same temperature. If numerous, the scale insects should 
be scraped off with a blunt edged piece of wood, the trees afterwards 
being brushed or syringed with the emulsion. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —iarliest Forced in Pots .—The Vines started early in 
November in bottom heat are making rapid progress, growth having 
been freely produced and root action excited in consequence of the leaf 
development, which should be encouraged by top-dressings of artificial 
manures and supplies of water not less in temperature than that of the 
bed. The fermenting materials must not be allowed to decline in heat 
at this critical stage, augmenting them as required to maintain a 
temperature of 70° to 75° about the pots. It is a good plan to keep a 
heap of leaves and stable litter in reserve, from which supplies may be 
drawn as required. Particular attention must be given to the ventila- 
lation, avoiding chills, such as those resulting from cold currents of air, 
supplying the Vines with cold water. Disbud and tie down before the 
shoots touch the glass, not being in too great a hurry in stopping, nor 
restricting to a certain number of joints beyond the bnnch where there 
is room. Yet there ought to be two, as well-developed foliage is 
essential to the proper swelling and finishing of the Grapes. Avoid 
overcrowding the foliage and overcropping by removing superfluous 
bunches as soon as choice can be made of the best. Maintain a night 
temperature of 60° to 65°, 70° to 75° by day artificially, so as to secure 
steady progress, and as the flowers open keep a rather drier atmo¬ 
sphere. Otherwise damp the paths two or three times a day, and where 
fermenting materials are not employed, sprinkle the floors occasionally 
with liquid manure. 
Planted~out Vines Started Early in December .—Where the house 
was closed at the beginning of this month the Vines will have started 
to grow. The temperature should be gradually raised so as to have 
it 60° to 65° at night when they come into leaf, 70° to 75° by day in 
mild weather, but 65° is more suitable when the weather is dull and 
cold. Air must be given judiciously, as cold currents cripple the foliage 
irreparably, yet moderate ventilation is essential to sturdy growth and 
well-developed leaves. As the foliage enlarges root action will be pro¬ 
moted, and it should be accelerated by supplying top-dressings of 
phosphatic manure, as bone superphosphate, say 4 ozs. per square yard. 
Defer disbudding until the bunches show in the points of the shoots, 
and allow these to grow up towards the glass. The growths also 
should be allowed to make two joints at least beyond the show of fruit 
before stopping, pinching off the points when the leaves at the stopping 
point are about the size of a halfpenny, remaving laterals at the same 
time. Supply water when needed to the inside border at a temperature 
of 5° higher than the mean of the house. If the roots are partly out¬ 
side, the border must be effectively protected from frost, and where they 
are entirely outside fermenting materials will materially assist root 
action and a steady supply of nutrition, but once used they must be 
added to from time to time to maintain the heat uniform at a tempera¬ 
ture of 70° to 75° at the surface of the soil. This may be ascertained by 
plunging a thermometer with the bulb level with the base of the 
