September 7 , 183?, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
231 
Pines.— Young Pine plants always present a luxuriant appearance at 
this season under proper treatment, this arising from the beneficial 
effects of natural causes so important in cultivation. Those influences 
being now on the wane, greater care will be necessary in the manage¬ 
ment to prevent the growth becoming soft, and measures should be 
taken to consolidate it by a drier atmosphere, and, if necessary, artificial 
heat. Syringing will only be needed occasionally, and it should be done 
early in the afternoon of bright days. Water must only be given when 
absolutely necessary, then afford a plentiful supply of weak liquid 
manure in a tepid state. The bottom heat should be kept steady at 85°, 
or between 80° and 90°. Particular attention must be paid to the 
ventilation, which is very important at this period of the year. Plants 
in a luxuriant condition should have air at 80°, above which ventilate 
liberally, especially on warm sunny days, and close the house for the 
day at 80°. The night temperature ought to be maintained at 65°, 
allowing 70° to 75° by day artificially. 
Fruiting plants must not further be detained in structures indis¬ 
criminately, but should be brought together in a house suitable for 
finishing the fruit well. Plants that are intended for starting into fruit 
early in the year should be selected from those that were started last 
spring, and be arranged, not later than the end of this month, where 
they can rest for six weeks. Those on which the fruit is swelling must 
be encouraged with a liberal amount of heat and moisture, keeping the 
night temperature from 70° to 75°, and that in the daytime from 80° to 
90°, closing the house at 85° with sun heat. 
THE KITCEEEN GARDEN. 
Kidney Beans.— Frosts have already injured Runner Beans growing 
in rather low positions, and if this important crop comes to grief soon 
then the late Kidney Beans will be aril the more appreciated. Water 
has been needed by the latter lately, and a light moulding up helps to 
keep the plants upright and steady. In many cases it would pay well 
to board round the breadth of plants and to cover with either spare pit 
lights or with mats during cold nights. More Beans should also be sown 
in 9-inch pots, these being filled with rich loamy soil. Place nine seeds 
in each pot, and put the latter either in a cold pit or in the open for a 
time, transferring to shelves in forcing houses before cold weather sets 
in. Sion House is still one of the best for pot culture, but Ne Plus 
Ultra and Canadian Wonder are also suitable. 
Cabbage. —Plants obtained by sowing seed about the middle of 
July are plentiful and strong, and unless thinned out will soon spoil 
each other in the seed beds. They may not be much too early, and the 
first favourable opportunity should be taken to plant out a good breath. 
The best sites for spring Cabbage are quarters newly cleared of spring- 
sown Onions. When the latter are harvested, remove the rubbish and 
weeds and draw drills 20 inches asunder for the stronger growing 
varieties of Cabbage, from 15 inches to 18 inches apart being ample 
for the less vigorous kinds. Water the seed beds and drills a short time 
prior to planting if necessary. The plants will then draw readily, and 
may be quickly planted with a dibber. Make the soil firm about the 
roots, and give a watering. If the ground is ready for the plants prick 
them out 4 inches asunder each way, and when they touch each other 
transplant with a trowel to their winter quarters. Club-root, or ambury, 
is very troublesome in some gardens, and if the plants when drawn are 
found to have a swelling on the root growths, cut it cleanly off, and then 
dip in a puddle of clayey soil, soot, lime and water, so as to well coat 
the root. 
Cauliflowers. —Plants from seed sown on a warm border about the 
middle of August are likely to attain too large a size to winter readily. 
Pricking them in beds where they can be eventually covered with frames 
of some kind will check them ; but it will be a good plan to sow more 
seed on shallow beds surmounted by a frame, the lights not being put on 
much before cold frosty weather prevails. Seed may also be sown on a 
warm border, the strongest of the plants thus obtained being eventually 
placed singly in 3-inch pots and wintered in pits and frames. Early 
Snowball, Early Dwarf Erfurt, Early London and Veitch’s Autumn 
Giant are useful varieties. 
Endive.— This succeeds best on warm, light, and not too poor 
ground. Plants put out now should be located where they can be 
protected with boards and mats during frosty weather, and should we 
have a favourable autumn they may yet attain a good size. Leave some 
plants rather thickly, or from 4 inches to 6 inches asunder each way in 
the seed beds, and according as they progress self blanching will take place. 
Bettuce. —Strong plants of Black-seeded Brown Cos are very 
serviceable in the autumn. A few at a time should be tied up moderately 
tightly, and the hearts will then blanch. Where there are breadths of 
nearly full grown Lettuce plants of any variety, make some provision 
for protecting them when frosts prevail. Quite young plants are very 
much hardier than those nearly full grown. Now is a good time to sow 
seed of Black-seeded Brown Cos, Hick’s Hardy Cos, Hammersmith Green, 
All the Year Round, and other well known hardy Lettuces on a border 
where the plants can remain all the winter. 
Parsley. —A scarcity of Parsley proves a source of much worry to 
a gardener, and every precaution should be taken to guard against 
failures. The commoner or least curled strains are the hardiest, but 
these have been largely superseded by more delicate though superior 
kinds. Strong plants can be rendered hardier and better by being 
cut over at once, and the crop of young leaves that follow will prove 
serviceable. Any plants that have not been raised long enough to 
develop great heads may well be left alone. Before frosts cripple the 
plants enough should be lifted and either replanted in a frame or pit in 
good soil, or else in deep boxes or pots filled with good loamy soil. 
Select strong plants, pull off the strong outer leaves, and replant some¬ 
what thickly. For a time longer they may be kept in the open, or if in 
pits or frames uncovered, as it is only during the most severe weather 
that protection is needed. Branches of fruit trees sometimes afford 
sufficient protection to save the Parsley underneath when all the rest 
has been killed. It is advisable, therefore, to form beds or a few circles 
under some of the moderately low trees by the side of garden walks. 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
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M 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Notes from the Moors. 
We are now enjoying beautiful weather, and although most of 
the Heather is past, there is still much for the bees to add a little 
more weight to their already abundant store. Two months have 
elapsed since the bees were brought here, an enormous amount of 
Heather and Thyme being in bloom ; but for the first month the 
weather was so stormy and of a wintry character that the hives 
declined in weight, the bees in a great measure getting no more 
honey than was sufficient to carry on breeding. From the time 
they were set down until September 4th scarcely a day passed 
without one or more swarms issuing, and queens are still piping 
yet. I have proven much, but learned little, although matters 
are widely different from what is generally taught. These, with 
other things connected with bees, including Punics, I shall 
refer to at an early date, which will be both instructive and 
interesting to bee-keepers. I am anxious to get home with the 
bees, but the great heat in the hives, and honey being still carried 
in in considerable quantity, preclude the possibility of doing so for 
some time. The present is the longest Heather season on record. 
Bee-keepers will be looking to their own interest if they during 
this month make sure that queens are all youthful and fertile. 
Remove all superfluous drone comb, substitute full sheets of 
foundation, and feed with sugar till the hive is filled with worker 
comb. Bees winter better on sugar than honey, so bee-keepers 
have the option of securing more honey and healthier hives. 
Pollen—Bees Flying. 
I have been much interested at seeing the bees break the rule 
of gathering pollen from one sort of flower or grass only, I have 
witnessed them frequently work alternately on different species of 
both flowers and Grasses. 
Some years since I gave my observations and opinion upon this 
subject to the effect that bees were guided to their hive by possess¬ 
ing a knowledge of the points of the compass, and not that of any 
land or other mark. I have for some time past been giving the 
subject more thought and attention, and my opinion is that 
magnetic influence is the principal guide of the bee, both outside 
and inside the hive, and that the eyes are of most use to the insect 
in her flights in the field, and that their antennae regulate every 
movement. 
The Age of the Bee. 
We have had this subject so often under consideration that it 
is almost useless to say a word more upon it to refute the erroneous 
impression that bees live about six weeks only, were it not to point 
out to bee-keepers that these strong colonies are the result of 
having two queens’ progeny living at one time, not by art, but by 
a natural act of the bees changing their queens without swarming 
about midsummer. The bees are still further preserved by being 
kept much within doors through stress of weather, and being well 
found in stores the season throughout, being exactly in a similar 
condition to that which we have so long advised to be done by 
careful manipulations, and introducing young fertile queens at the 
proper time.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
P. Barr & Son, King Street, Covent Garden, London. — Daffodils, 
Hyacinths, and other Bulbs. 
F. Besuard, a Paris, 28, Rue Geoffroy L’Asnier. — Catalogue of 
Sjyraying Apparatus, and Garden Appliances. 
R. & G. Cuthbert, Southgate, N.— Bulbous Flowering Roots. 
L. Delaville, 2, Quai de la Megisserie, 2, Paris.— Bulbs, Plants, t^'c. 
E. P, Dixon & Sons, The Yorkshire Seed Establishment, Hull.— 
Bulb Catalogue, 
W. J. Godfrey, Exmouth, Devon. —Spring Flowers. 
Harrison & Son, Leicester, Flowering Bulbs and Roots. 
W. E. Martin, Hull.— Dutch, French, and Cape Bulbs. 
Benjamin Soddy, 243, Walworth Road, S.E.— Winter and Spring 
Flowering Bulbs. 
E. Webb & Sons, Wordsley, Stourbridge.— Catalogue. 
