240 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 14, 1893. 
National Eose Society. 
Every man has a perfect right to his own opinion, whether he be 
Mr. Grahame, his anonymous friend, or “ E. M.” Now my opinion on the 
question of Mr. Grahame’s circular is briefly this. That the result of 
the inquiries made in that circular having been published in one of your 
contemporaries since I last wrote you on the subject, no further 
correspondence on my part is needed.—E. M., BerUhampstead, 
[Nor, we think, on Mr. Grahame’s part either, and the present 
discussion is now closed.] 
Eose The Bride. 
According to my experience The Bride is a stronger grower than 
Niphetos, and in some respects a fuller and better Eose. In growth and 
the construction of its flowers it closely resembles its parent, Catherine 
Mermet. The greater number of petals in the flower than Niphetos 
possesses is in favour of its lasting longer, but the flowers have not 
the pure whiteness of Niphetos. The greenish tint, however, is not 
objectionable in either wreaths or bouquets. We have lately had 
occasion to use it for these purposes, and good full flowers are lovely. 
It will never supersede Niphetos in my opinion for market purposes, for 
although it is a stronger grower it does not flower so profusely ; in fact, 
it possesses the character of its parent in this respect in a marked degree. 
—Eosa, 
Eosa Polyantha (Fairy Eoses). 
These charming Eoses should be extensively grown if only for their 
marvellous autumn flowering qualities, for they are particularly bright 
in appearance at this period of the year. If well treated they make 
strong bushes, the ends of every shoot being crowned with a profusion 
of bloom, embracing in their varieties shades of colour varying from 
pure white to yellow, pink, and deep scarlet. For bedding and massing 
purposes they are admirably adapted ; yet up to the present their 
qualities in this direction have been overlooked. For forcing purposes, 
for bouquets or buttonholes, they are also useful, and should be exten¬ 
sively used by persons interested. 
The following are the best varieties, yet there are many others well 
worthy of cultivation:—Anna Marie de Montravel, purest white, well 
formed; Golden Fairy, nankeen yellow, a miniature Wm. Allen 
Richardson; Etoile d’Or, canary yellow; Mignonette, soft rosy pink, 
very beautiful; Georges Pernet, rosy peach; The Pet, pure white, very 
large clusters; Blanche Eebatel, bright carmine.—J. E.Merryweather. 
A New Hybrid Eose. 
A RECENT number of the “ Garden and Forest ” contained an illus* 
tration of a “ New Hybrid Eose,” with which the following particulars 
were given “In the year 1891 Mr. Jackson Dawson fertilized a flower 
of Eosa Wichuraiana with pollen of General Jacqueminot, and in 
December he planted four seeds which resulted from this cross. The 
seedlings appeared in January, 1892, were grown in pots during the 
summer and wintered in a cold pit. All bloomed in June of this year, 
which is rather remarkable, since few seedling Eoses bloom before the 
second or third year. These plants differ materially, although they all 
show to some degree the trailing habit of the seed parent. One of them 
has single pale pink flowers, borne in clusters, and is intermediate in 
habit between the two parents. Another one bore double flowers of a 
pale flesh colour, which did not open well, owing to damp weather. 
The third one has a prostrate habit, with rosy pink flowers borne in 
clusters of four or flve from every joint of its last year’s wood. It 
received a first-class certificate from the Massachusetts Horticultural 
Society at its Eose Show in June. The fourth plant (which is the one 
referred to as being illustrated) is not as prostrate in habit as Eosa 
Wichuraiana, and its broader leaves have a glossy surface. The solitary 
flowers are very double, and in shape and colour resemble those of 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, although they are smaller. The plant con¬ 
tinues in bloom a long time and promises to be very useful.” 
VEGETABLE CULTURE IN ADVERSE SEASONS. 
During the past two seasons the cultivation of vegetables has been 
a diflScult task, and whilst the struggles with the dry weather are fresh 
in the minds of gardeners in their efforts to keep the table well supplied 
with tender produce a few notes on some of the most useful kinds 
may be of service. 
Evidently many gardeners have succeeded in producing first-class 
produce, judging from the excellent dishes staged at the shows during 
the past summer, and no doubt equally good vegetables have been grown 
in various parts of the country and not taken to shows. Gardens lying 
in low positions have had the advantage of those on higher ground, and 
in many cases the latter slope as well. In such the retention of moisture 
is of paramount importance. Exceptionally dry springs, accompanied 
with cutting east winds, followed by months of drought, are the most 
unsuitable to the free growth of vegetables. What, then, does recent 
experience teach us ? I think two most important lessons—namely, the 
necessity of deep cultivation and mulching. 
By deep cultivation I do not mean turning up the subsoil and placing 
it on the surface, especially where it is of a cold retentive nature, but 
thoroughly loosening and mixing with it garden refuse, if in a charred 
state so much the better, and then turning over the surface soil upon it. 
This, if done when the ground is tolerably dry, during the autumn or 
winter months, and allowed to remain with a rough surface so that the 
weather can act upon it, will produce a good seed bed in spring. Never 
work the land while it is in a wet condition, or the evil effects will be 
felt during the whole of the following season. 
Mulching during the dry months of summer will prove to be of the 
greatest value. Mulch with manure, decayed leaves, half-decayed straw, 
or grass from the lawns after mowing ; failing these form a dust mulch 
by continually plying the Dutch hoe between the crops. This is of 
more value on light soils than continued drenchings of cold water from 
a can. 
Potatoes. 
As Potatoes are the chief mainstay of every garden I will deal with 
them first. This is the proper time to select the seed tubers for next 
year, and great care should be bestowed upon them. Medium-sized sets 
are the best, and if placed thinly in boxes or cool sheds, and kept safe 
from frost during the winter, but given as much light as possible, a good 
beginning will have been made towards the next season’s work. 
The ground will next require attention. If stable manure is to be 
used apply it in the autumn or early spring, thoroughly mixing it with 
the soil to a good depth, whether it be light or heavy; but, if heavy, 
leave the surface as rough as possible. The weather acting upon it will 
pulverise and make it suitable for planting in due time. 
Previously to planting the seed tubers should be examined, and if 
more than one or two shoots are prominent reduce by removing them 
to that number. If seed is scarce they may be cut in two, leaving one 
sprout on each section ; but I prefer to plant medium-sized whole tubers 
with sprouts on them a quarter or half an inch long, not pale in colour, 
but dark green. If the soil is heavy spread over the surface cinders and 
leaves of any kind. If artificial manures are to be used, sprinkle them 
in the drills before planting, and a small quantity of dry lime is of 
service in keeping worms away and the skin of the Potatoes clean. To 
avoid disease plant in rows 24 inches apart for early and 30 inches 
for late sorts, the former 12 inches asunder in the drills, and the latter 
18 inches. Close planting often means the reverse of a heavy crop of 
fine tubers. Remove some of the haulm in a young state if any of the 
roots appear crowded with it. Well ply the hoe between the rows early, 
and keep the crop clean. 
Early sorts may be planted in February if protection can be given 
from frosts during the first part of May ; but the middle of March is 
soon enough in exposed situations, and not later than the 20th April 
for late sorts. A change of seed is highly beneficial. All should be 
lifted and stored during dry weather if possible. Some of the best 
varieties are Ringleader, Early Puritan, Rivers’ Royal Ashleaf, and 
Myatt’s Ashleaf for early use. Second early ; Windsor Castle, Early 
Regent, Snowdrop, and Beauty of Hebron ; Triumph, Magnum Bonum, 
and Clarke's Maincrop Kidney for late use, with Vicar of Laleham as 
a coloured companion. It is a good cropper and shapely. 
Peas. 
This is a very important crop, and a wise selection of varieties must 
be made, with good ground for growing them. We sow early sorts on 
warm, sunny borders, midseason and late ones in trenches, not as 
prepared for Celery, as I think these are usually made too deep. If the 
trenches for Peas are 8 inches deep in the first instance they will do. 
Throw out the soil on each side evenly, place in a good dressing of well- 
decayed manure, and well mix it with the soil at the bottom of the 
trench. If left in an undisturbed mass, and a hot season follows, the 
manure dries up, but if well incorporated with the soil it does not. 
One inch of soil must be placed in the trench afterwards and trod down 
a little. Upon this sow the seeds evenly and thinly, covering with 
2 inches of earth; thus an open trench is left 5 inches deep. In the 
summer I prefer to cover the seeds deeper. When the Peas are 2 inches 
high or so, if they appear to be at all crowded, thin them out a little 
before drawing the soil to each side of the rows. This will prove a good 
means of support. Staking ought not to be delayed. The sticks should 
be put in very firmly, according to the height of each variety, not 
omitting to use a few small branches. If any variety is thought to be 
behind the time at which produce is wanted, topping the plants will 
cause them to pod more quickly. 
Avoid watering Peas unless it can be constantly attended to. Even 
then I doubt its benefit. Better than watering is mulching after a good 
rain. Leaves, half-decayed manure, or lawn grass should be placed on 
the surface of the soil on each side of the rows to a depth of 2 inches. 
There is no question as to the benefit the plants derive from this opera¬ 
tion, but it should not be too long delayed, or its use will be of little 
avail. If the rows are 6 to 9 feet apart, with such crops as Potatoes, 
Cauliflowers, or Spinach between, the sun acts on both sides, and fuller 
crops of Peas result. 
There are so many varieties that a good selection should be made. Of 
first earlies Laxton’s Earliest of All, Dickson’s First and Best, 
William I. ; of second earlies Champion of England, Duke of Albany, 
and Royal Jubilee ; for late use Veitch’s Perfection, Autocrat, and Ne 
Plus Ultra are good. No garden should be without the last named, as 
it withstands mildew till the crop is nearly all gathered. Sowings may 
