September 14, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
253 
most of sun heat. Hambur^hs colcu/ and finish best beneath a gooi 
spread*of foliage, as also does Madresfield Court, but it is as well not to 
encourage lateral growth now ; at the same time it must be borne in 
mind that the tendency to shanking is accelerated by large reductions of 
foliage, and equally so by sudden fluctuations of temperature. A little 
air should be admitted through the top and bottom ventilators until the 
Grapes are ripe. If there is any deficiency of moisture in the borders it 
will be better to give a supply now than at a later period, covering with 
some dry material, so as to prevent damp rising. A free circulation of 
air, however, is the best safeguard against the Grapes damping, for the 
fungal germs that produce spotting and decay require a still and damp 
air for seating and germination. 
Outside borders will in most instances be sufficiently moist—if not 
they must be watered, and unless the weather set in unusually wet they 
need not be covered at present ; but glazed lights, shutters, or tarpaulin 
should be in readiness for placing over them, so as to throw off con¬ 
tinued heavy rains. Where the borders are well raised above the 
surrounding level, have a good slope, and are composed of porous 
material over thorough drainage it is not necessary to cover them ; but 
the Grapes sometimes decay wholesale when the borders are very rich 
and close and soddened by heavy rains. 
Zate Muscat Houses .—The Grapes are close upon finishing, but they 
are not by any means matured, as they will continue to acquire colour 
and quality as long as the leaves are green. There must not be any 
attempt at removing the leaves, but allow them to remain until they 
part naturally at the base of the footstalks from the shoots. The bearing 
shoots should be given plenty of space, so that throughout their growth 
every leaf will have full exposure to light. Where the Grapes are not 
now ripe the night temperature ought to be kept at 65° to 70°, and the 
heat should be turned on in good time in the morning, so as to allow of 
an increase of ventilation, and the temperature be raised to 70° to 75°, 
and kept at 80° to 85° from the sun. The heat should be kept up by 
reducing the ventilation, with the declining sun, and the temperature 
allowed to gradually decline at night, only keeping sufficient warmth in 
the pipes to prevent its undue recession, and to allow the top and 
bottom ventilators to be left open to a slight extent. This will insure a 
circulation of air, and prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries 
during the night. If the latter occurs the Grapes must inevitably spot. 
The border must not be allowed to become dry, affording the needful 
supplies of water on fine mornings when air can be freely admitted. 
After the Grapes are thoroughly ripe and finished, a temperature of 
50° to 55° is necessary for the keeping of Muscats in good condition. 
Houses of Thich~shi)inc(l Oraj)es .—Late Grapes generally require 
fire heat during the ripening period, so as to insure a circulation of air, 
and this they should have until thoroughly perfected. This ought now 
to be quite complete to insure sound keeping; where it is not the house 
should be treated similarly to Muscats, with the difference that being 
mostly black Grapes, they must have a good spread of foliage over them. 
A temperature of 50° to 55° is necessary after the Grapes are ripe for the 
benefit of the Vines, and the conditioning quality so essential to use in 
such varieties as Gros Colman and Gros Guillaume. 
Cucumbers. —Autumn Fruiters .—Afford these every attention, 
supplying tepid liquid manure copiously. Eemove superfluous laterals, 
guarding against an overcrowded growth; also avoid overcropping, not 
allowing the fruit to hang on the plants after it becomes fit for use, and 
take off staminate blossoms and tendrils. Maintain a genial condition 
of the atmosphere by damping the floor and paths in the morning, 
afternoon, and evening, syringing the plants only in the early afternoon 
of bright days. Look over the plants twice a week for stopping the 
shoots one or two joints beyond the show of fruit, removing bad leaves, 
and retain no more foliage than can be fully exposed to light. Earth 
up the roots as the plants advance in growth, only just covering them 
each time as they show at the sides of the hillocks or ridges, the soil 
being placed in the house some time previously to be warmed before 
used. Supply water as required, not allowing the plants to flag for lack 
of it, nor making the soil sodden by needless applications, always having 
it of the same temperature as the house. 
Winter Fruiters .—Put the plants in large pots, plunging in a 
bottom heat of 80° to 90° until established; then raise them near the 
glass, maintaining a temperature of 70° at night, 75° by day, with an 
advance from sun heat to 85° or 90°. Where fermenting materials are 
used for bottom heat, they must be in preparation, throwing into a 
heap, applying water if necessary, and turning over to induce fermenta¬ 
tion and dissipate noxious gases before making the beds. If plants 
have not been raised seed may be sown at the beginning of next month, 
and the plants from this sowing will produce fruit in February and 
onwards ; but it is no use attempting to winter such plants without the 
command of plenty of heat and a light structure. 
Plants in pits and frames must be carefully watered, and only 
sprinkled lightly on bright days. The foliage should be kept thin, 
removing bad leaves and cutting out exhausted growths to give place 
for young bearing shoots, and close early with as much sun heat as is 
safe. The temperature may be increased to 95° or 100° after closing, 
and to secure a suitable heat at night (65°) and on dull days (70° to 75°) 
renovate the linings as necessary, and employ night coverings. 
IMelons. —When the latest plants are well up the trellis and showing 
fruit blossoms, these should be fertilised daily, the atmosphere being 
kept rather dry, and a little ventilation given constantly, so as to insure 
a circulation of air and prevent the deposition of moisture on the flowers. 
Stop the shoots at the time of impregnating the blossoms one joint 
beyond the fruit. When a sufficient number of fruits are set on a plant, 
remove all the staminate and pistillate flowers, reducing the fruits to 
three or four on a plant, which must not be overburdened with fruit. 
Earth up the plants after the fruit is fairly swelling, and be careful in 
syringing the foliage, only using it lightly on bright afternoons, but 
maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere by damping the floors 
and similar surfaces in the morning and afternoon. Do not give 
too much water at the roots, but encourage root action by moderate 
moisture in the soil, with fresh additions of warm soil as the roots 
protrude. Maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 
80° to 90° through the day from sun heat, with a night temperature of 
65° to 70°. 
In order to advance the ripening and enhance the flavour of late 
fruits maintain a brisk heat by day with enough ventilation to insure 
a circulation of air constantly, keep water from the house after the 
fruit commences ripening, and do not afford any at the roots, or only to 
prevent flagging. The October fruiting plants will be swelling their 
fruits,, and must be assisted with tepid liquid manure whenever they 
become dry. Keep the laterals well in hand, also a sharp look out for 
canker at the collar, and rub quicklime into the affected parts until dry, 
and repeat as necessary. If there be any fear of cracked fruit cut the 
shoot or bine about half way through, a little below the fruit. This 
will check the flow of sap, but the chief cause of cracking is a hard rind 
acted on by a close atmosphere, causing the deposition of moisture on the 
fruit'during the night. As a preventive of both canker and cracking 
ventilate freely and keep the air dry, and supply water sparingly at 
the roots. 
Plants in pits and frames will not require further damping on the 
foliage, and should only have sufficient moisture in the soil to keep the 
leaves from becoming limp or flagging. The growths should be kept 
rather thin and the fruit well elevated above it—say on reversed flower 
pots, each fruit being placed on a piece of slate. Apply good linings, so 
as to finish the fruits satisfactorily, which requires a warm and dry 
atmosphere with free ventilation. After lining the beds a little air 
should be admitted constantly to prevent injury from steam. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Crotons —Well furnished plants that are to be increased in size 
may be placed into pots one size larger than those they now occupy. 
Plants that have become leggy may have their tops re-rooted, and these 
if properly treated during the autumn and winter will make excellent 
specimens early another season. All well coloured side shoots from 
plants that have been cut back may be rooted in small pots. These 
small plants will be found invaluable for furnishing purposes during the 
winter. Plants that it is necessary to increase in size should have a 
warm moist atmosphere, while those that are large enough and highly 
coloured may have a more airy position to prevent them starting again 
into growth. Those that are subjected to this treatment last much 
longer than others that are grown in a close moist atmosphere. A little 
chemical manure applied occasionally to the surface of the soil will be 
found beneficial to all plants that have their pots full of roots. 
Allamandas. —The dwarf A. Williamsi will become a popular 
plant. It grows and fiowers freely in a small state, and will, therefore, 
prove invaluable for decorative purposes. Well flowered plants can be 
produced in 5-inch pots. A. Henderson! for supplying a large amount 
of bloom is certainly unsurpassed. Plants that have been growing and 
flowering for the greater part of the season should have liquid manure 
freely given them, or chemical manure applied to the surface every 
week.’ It is a mistake to allow the shoots to grow thickly together 
until they become crowded. This prevents the thorough maturation of 
the wood, and unduly shades the plants that are grown beneath them. 
The flowers on the plants are much smaller in consequence, and are 
often deficient in colour. Plants that are to be started early in the year 
should be kept drier at their roots, and slightly cooler after this month 
to harden and mature the wood. An early rest is essential if the plants 
are to start freely into growth when introduced into heat and flower 
early on short-jointed wood. 
Stephanotls florlbunda. —Plants that have made good growth 
and finished flowering should be subjected to cool airy treatment ; in 
fact, the plants are better grown for some weeks without the aid of artificial 
heat. Give air liberally during the day when fine, but towards evening 
close or partially close the structure in which they are grown. Syringe 
the plants once daily to keep the foliage clean, and mulch the border or 
surface of the pots with manure to prevent evaporation. All weak 
growths may be entirely removed from plants that display a tendency 
to be crowded. Full light and plenty of air amongst the shoots are 
necessary to ripen and harden the wood, for upon its thorough matura¬ 
tion the number of flowers produced another year will depend. 
Glorlosa superba. —Plants that were started early into growth 
will show signs of going to rest. Keep plants in this condition drier at 
their roots, but do not unduly dry them. Water ought to be gradually 
withheld, and more air given until the growing stems have died away 
and the tubers are thoroughly matured, when they may be stored away 
in any place where the temperature ranges from 50° to 55° if kept dry. 
Adlantum cuneatum. —Any plants that are intended for yielding 
foliage for cutting as long as possible should not be grown in a high 
temperature, and a liberal supply of air must be admitted to them. 
These'plants have done well with us this year, and they have been grown 
for sotae months past in cold frames fully exposed to the sun. Fronds 
produced by this method are of the sturdiest description, light in colour, 
and last well in a cut state. Seedlings of both this and Pteris established 
in pahs and boxes should be placed singly or two or three together in 
