September 21, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
263 
always stop at the footstalk. It M'ould be interesting to hear how your 
correspondent succeeds next year, but my idea for the prevention of 
shanking is this—induce the roots near the surface or in an inside border, 
and keep them there by constant feeding winter and summer.—E. P., 
Impney. _ 
Anything that is written on the culture of Grapes is always 
interesting to old and young alike. Shanking of the fruit is a disease 
which causes much trouble, and in my opinion the problem is by no 
means solved. Shanking is not caused by one thing only, and Vines 
must be treated according to what is thought to be the cause of the 
disease, and it becomes the gardener in charge to put his head to work 
to find this out. Shanking of the footstalks first appears just as the 
berry is colouring, continuing to the time the Grapes are ripe. Some 
will shank even then, but these berries will be almost as sweet as the 
rest of the bunch. 
Absence of calcareous matter in the border, and the roots in the cold 
subsoil, have been attributed as the causes of the evil; but overcropped 
starved rods which have not swelled according to their age with long spurs, 
obstructing the sap, over-richness of borders where they are new, bad 
ventilation while the Vines are in bloom, and hurrying them while 
stoning, have something to do with it in several cases. 
With regard to Mr. Richardson’s case, he has done the right thing in 
lifting the roots, but I fail to see the advantage of not thinning the 
berries. If his rods have not swelled according to their age, he would 
obtain better fruit by running up young rods, not leaving too much 
length of rod the first year or two. He should feed the Vines well, 
fork the borders only once so as not to disturb the surface roots, and 
give a good coat of either stable or cow litter, letting it remain until 
the crop and laterals are ripe.—F. G. 
I PAIL to see in what way the thinning of bunches of Grapes (when 
carefully done) should tend to the shanking of the retained berries as 
suggested by Mr. Thomas Richardson (page 238). Under the treatment so 
clearly described in the third and fourth paragraphs of Mr. Richardson’s 
letter it is only reasonable to assume that had the number of bunches 
this year been reduced to seven or twelve on each Vine, according to its 
strength, and the berries thinned to about 1 inch apart, the result would 
be much more satisfactory than the magnificent (?) crop referred to by 
your correspondent. 
The improvement in the vigour and general condition of Mr. 
Richardson’s Vines ia not to be attributed to the fact of his having 
“ dispensed altogether with che thinning scissors,” but is traceable to 
the good resulting from the removal of the old worn out soil, and adding 
a more substantial and congenial admixture of “ chopped turf, half-inch 
bones, and old lime rubble,” and the subsequent top-dressings of cow 
manure, and applications of the “ undiluted drainings of a cowshed.” 
The fact is the Vines are now bearing evidence of the good they have 
derived from the change of fare. There is no reason why the Vines 
should not continue to yield good crops of creditable Grapes for several 
years to come. However, the Vines being very old I would suggest to 
Mr. Richardson the advisability of taking a young rod up, stopping the 
leading growths at 3 feet, and pinching out the laterals. In this way 
new rods may be secured in three or four years without interfering 
with the annual crop of Grapes, except by improving it, as the lower 
spurs may be cut clean away from the old Vines up as far as the 
shortened back young rods extend, these being allowed to bear a few 
bunches, say two the first year, four the second year, six the third, and 
eight or nine the fourth year, the old rods being then cut out at the 
fall of the leaf. 
Means should also be taken to confine the roots of the Vines in a 
strip of border about 6 or 7 feet wide at the most, keeping them near 
the surface by top-dressing and liberal applications of liquid manure 
during the summer months to assist perfecting the crop. Where 
fermenting leaves to the thickness of about 2 feet can be put on the 
border when the house is closed for forcing without being considered 
objectionable, the gentle heat thereby imparted to the top-dressing will 
attract the roots to and keep them in the compost prepared for their 
special requirements and advantage. This is a simple and sure means of 
attaining an important end.— H. W. Ward, Longford Castle, Salisbur7j, 
With the Editor’s permission I should like to give my opinion on 
Mr. Richardson’s experiments with shanking Grapes. The method he 
has found beneficial is quite the reverse of mine. Muscats I fancy would 
be better left unthinned under Mr. Richardson’s treatment. I do not 
believe in cow manure in a raw state for Vines, the liquid no doubt 
will suit them to a certain extent. Has Mr. Richardson examined the 
drainage ? That would be my first step. Lifting the roots near the 
surface by degrees has been successful with me. Take note of the soil, 
and water carefully, not twice a week, but once every two weeks would 
be quite enough in most cases. In an early vinery I have two Muscat 
Vines which my employer previous to my coming here a year ago 
was advised to chop down owing to shanking. I have given them part 
of the above treatment, and the result is a crop of excellent Grapes. I 
am in hopes of having better next year, after lifting the roots up to the 
front lights, as I only half lifted them last year, owing to it being late 
in the season when I took charge. 
Did ilr. Richardson fin'd any long tap roots when lifting? If not, I 
sb: nil advise him to look again, as I fancy there must be some straying 
into the clay under the lawn. Long thick fibreless roots straying 
into a cold soil is, in my opinion, the principal cause of shanking. 
Get the roots near the surface, and top-dress with good turf, bones, 
charcoal, and lime rubble, then I think the Vines will require no cow 
manure, the liquid from it being quite sufficient.—W m. Roberts, 
The Gardens, Peniarth, Merioneth, 
With the Editor, I agree that Mr. Richardson is on the way to have 
Grapes free from shanking on thinned bunches in the not far distant 
future. I do not believe that non-thinning of the berries will have much 
effect in preventing shanking, rather the reverse. It is obvious that the 
heavy feeding has exercised a most marked improvement on the Vines 
and their fruit, and if Mr. Richardson continues to feed with judgment 
I feel sure that no shanking will be the rule among his Grapes. At the 
same time I may perhaps advise caution in the use of cow manure 
applied several times in the season, in addition to undiluted drainings 
from the cowsheds every Tue.sday and Friday. It may answer very well 
for a year or two, and then I think there is a danger of the Vine border 
becoming sour. To prevent sourness a soaking of lime water several 
times in the season would be advisable, and also prove beneficial to the 
Vines. Some of the various salts are also excellent if used with dis¬ 
cretion, but soils vary so much in their constituents that only a practical 
knowledge of the elements therein can enable anyone to state what 
should and what should not be supplied. The question of manures and 
their action is somewhat perplexing, but I think a keen observer like 
Mr. Richardson will soon overcome all difficulties that may arise.— 
S. T. Wright. 
VEGETABLE CULTCJRE IN ADVERSE SEASONS. 
(^Continued from page 241.') 
Cauliflowers. 
The chief point to aim at in growing Cauliflowers for exhibition or 
home use is quick growih from beginning to end. If allowed to remain 
too long in the seed bed, or to be dry at the roots for a long period, 
clubbing will often follow, and this is vexatious. Very early heads may 
be obtained by sowing during August and wintering the plants in cold 
frames, or by sowing in heat in spring and transp'anting to boxes or 
frames when in rough leaf, and when planted out put into shallow drills 
and protected by inverted flower pots or Fir branches. I prefer the last 
method of raising a stock for early use. There is not so much labour, 
anxiety, and risk of loss as in the case of autumn-raised plants. 
Sow the early varieties in January or first week in February, and 
transplant the young seedlings in well prepared beds previously to 
putting them in their permanent quarters. Allow a good distance from 
plant to plant, according to the variety, and on the first appearance of 
clubbing earth up the stems, first treading the soil firmly round each 
plant. If the weather be dry and hot copious waterings will be neces¬ 
sary, and a good mulch should be applied. Sometimes in hot weather 
the fly is troublesome. The best remedy which I have found is anthra¬ 
cite coal ash dusted over the plants while they are damp with dew. Cut 
the heads when at their best. If allowed to remain long in very hot 
weather they soon become loose and discoloured and their chief attrac¬ 
tion and quality lost. The varieties Early London, Walcheren, Magnum 
Bonum, and Eclipse, with Veitch’s Autumn Giant for late use, I find 
sufficient for a large garden. 
Carrots. 
Clean, even, and richly coloured Carrots are not to be obtained out 
of poor, stiff, and lumpy soil, especially if shallow. Deep cultivation 
should be the rule without exception for all root crops, and labour spent 
in this work will not be lost. Soil of a free and rather light nature is 
best suited for the production of clean, even Carrots. 'Where it is not 
so deal with it in early autumn ; if wireworm be found apply a light 
sprinkling of soot and gas lime, and well incorporate with the soil as 
digging goes on. The ground ought to be broken up two spits deep, and 
if stable manure is used let it be decayed, without straw or litter of any 
kind, but not dried. Well break up the bottom spit of soil and leave it 
in position, turn over the top spit and leave the surface rough, then a 
good seed bed will be easily made in the spring. A rough surface admits 
air to the soil below, sweetening it. Some persons have great faith in 
chemical manures. Most of these, if good and properly used, are no 
doubt beneficial. They may be sprinkled on the surface of the bed 
early in the spring while the soil is dry and incorporated in it with a fork, 
at the same time breaking up all lumps of earth. After a time, when 
it is desirable to sow, make the remaining ground smooth, and draw drills 
a foot to 15 inches apart. Sow the seed thinly, scattering a little burnt 
earth and wood ashes in the drills before closing them with the rake. 
The preparation of the ground for Carrots will answer well for Parsnips 
and Beetroot. 
Thinning is the next important operation, and should be done at 
an early stage of the plant’s growth. It may seem a trifling affair, but 
it requires to be carefully carried out, and 4 to G inches or more should 
be allowed for the plants to develop properly. Draw the weakest first, 
then in a few days complete the thinning, always observing that the 
plants left be isolated, so that in taking away those not wanted its roots 
are but little disturbed. If it is one of a bunch the chances are that 
deformity in the root will result, though at the time of thinning it 
would not be observable. 
The bulk of these remarks apply with equal force to the cultivation 
of the Turnip and the Onion, only these crops require firm ground. 
