September 28, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
286 
beyond the trees. Beyond is forest scenery. On the mansion side 
of the lake are acres of lawn, stretching far away, studded with 
noble trees of various kinds, a few crowded, no doubt, but all cared 
for and everything in excellent keeping. Contiguous to the 
mansion is the new church, a splendid architectural ornament and 
beautiful within. A magnificent Turkey Oak affords an effective 
foil to the building, but is spoiling another tree, or this spoiling the 
Oak which would be a pity. When trees have been allowed to grow 
so long together so as to mar each other it is often difficult to know 
what to do for the best, but the Duke has a gardener whose 
experience and judgment will not lead astray in any matters 
connected with his charge. Clumber is a princely place, and Mr. 
Slade appears the right man for the position which he fills so well. 
The shades of evening fall, and Mr. Machin drives us to the 
“ Royal,” at Worksop where we rest till the morrow, when we have 
to face the flies in Sherwood Forest en route from Welbeck to 
Thoresby.— A City Man. 
WINTER-FLOWERING PLANTS. 
The time has now arrived when a general re-arrangement of 
the inmates of glass structures becomes necessary, so that those 
plants which have been refreshing themselves in the open air may 
again be placed under glass, where they will be safe from frost. 
In carrying out this work there is a general tendency to overcrowd¬ 
ing, and a most unwise policy it is in the majority of instances, the 
exceptions being those plants which are only required to give 
cuttings in the spring, or others which are passing through a 
period of partial or total rest, and consequently make little or no 
top growth during the next few months. These may, for con¬ 
venience sake, be placed closely together whenever a scarcity of 
room is experienced, but on no account should the plants intended 
for winter flowering be overcrowded, otherwise good results will 
not follow. Although with most of us there seems to be an 
inborn aversion to consigning plants to the rubbish heap, it is never¬ 
theless sound policy to occasionally “ weed” out with no unsparing 
hand weakly or unsightly plants in order to secure room for the 
full development of others, and thus prevent their drifting into 
the same unsatisfactory state. This practice may with advan¬ 
tage be carried out at the present time, so that the large numbers 
of plants intended for winter flowering which have during the 
summer months been grown in the open air or cold pits, may be 
arranged thinly in positions favourable to their well-being. True, 
it is not always possible to place each class of plants under the 
exact conditions which experience teaches us to be the best, but 
much may be done by giving the most important ones the best 
positions. 
Begonias.—Although these are not so much grown for winter 
flowering as formerly, several species and varieties are extremely 
useful for the purpose. Insignis, manicata, and nitida are three 
of the best that I am acquainted with. They are also very 
accommodating plants, and succeed well in old houses where many 
other plants cut but a sorry figure. Each of the trio produces 
flowers either pink or rose in colour, which are very useful in a 
cut state, and the two first-named make handsome decorative 
specimens for use in pots. Plants which have been growing 
during the summer in cold pits ought now to be removed to 
warmer quarters, where a night temperature of from 50° to 60° is 
maintained, under which conditions they will flower well during 
the next three months. 
Few plants are more useful than Bouvardias for supplying 
choice cut flowers especially adapted for arranging in sprays and 
buttonholes, provided they are well grown. Cold pits are excellent 
positions for them during the summer months, but they should 
receive daily syringings during bright weather to prevent attacks 
of red spider. After the plants have become established occasional 
applications of soot water and Clay’s fertiliser are beneficial, 
promoting health, vigour, and cleanliness ; indeed, if these matters 
are not attended to green fly, scale, and red spider will invariably 
establish themselves on the foliage. Should any of these insects 
be found upon the plants, the latter ought to be thoroughly 
syringed with a solution of Calvert’s carbolic soap, mixed at the 
rate of 2 ozs. to a gallon of water. This I find is a safe and 
efficient insecticide. To flower Bouvardias well during the winter 
a light house or pit is necessary, and a night temperature of 
55° to 60° should be maintained, with a rise of 5° durimg the day. 
If grown under cooler conditions a smaller number of flowers is 
produced. When much fire heat has to be employed to maintain 
those temperatures, special attention must be given to damping 
the floor in the house as well as to watering the plants, otherwise 
the insects above enumerated will give great trouble and severely 
check the formation of flower buds on the side shoots. If the top 
lights are left open a little way continually, except during very 
severe frosts, the pipes kept slightly warm when the weather is not 
bright, liberal ventilation being given when it is, the plants will make 
sturdy and floriferous growth. 
The following varieties of Bouvardias give a good variation of 
colour, the majority of them being very free flowering :—Alfred 
Neuner, double white ; Candidissima, white ; Vreelandi, white ; 
Elegans, scarlet ; Etna, double red ; Hogarth, scarlet ; Maiden’s 
Blush, rosy blush ; Mrs. Robert Green, salmcn pink ; President 
Garfield, double pink ; Purity, pure white ; and Vulcan, scarlet. 
Humboldti corymbiflora, with its snow white and deliciously scented 
flowers, is always much sought after. It seems a pity it is not a 
continuous bloomer, like so many of the smaller flowered type. 
I find its flowering period seldom extends over a month or six 
weeks. This variety succeeds well if planted outdoors during the 
summer, provided it is given a warm sunny position and the plants 
are set far enough apart for the air to circulate freely between 
them. They ought to be potted early in September, and placed on 
the north side of a wall to establish themselves before being taken 
under glass. When in the latter position less heat and atmospheric 
moisture than the majority of Bouvardias require will suffice for 
the one specified. Under such conditions the flowers produced 
have much greater substance than when given the treatment 
recommended for other varieties. 
Where flowers of Calla lethiopica are especially prized during 
November and December a number of plants should be kept in 
pots throughout the year. If these can be stood at the back of a 
north wall, away from overhanging trees, they continue to increase 
in strength throughout the summer months, and by the present 
time many of them will be showing flower spikes. I like to place 
these plants in their winter quarters by the end of the present 
month. Before arranging them in the houses the application of a 
rich top-dressing is of immense benefit to the plants. Loam and 
fresh horse droppings in equal parts with a 5-inch potful of 
Clay’s fertiliser to a peck of the other ingredients is an excellent 
compost to use for the purpose. Light span-roofed or lean-to 
houses are the best for Callas, but not absolutely necessary, as I 
have frequently produced large numbers of flower spikes during 
the autumn months from plants in houses which were both lofty 
and heavy in build, but when grown under such conditions the 
plants always become more or less drawn, even when kept near 
the glass. The advantages of growing the earlier plants entirely 
in pots may be easily perceived, as much less artificial heat is 
required to bring the flowers out by a given date. Indeed good 
clumps which have been planted out are frequently weakened by 
applying strong fire heat to hasten the fiower spikes as soon as they 
are seen. These which were planted in the open air and have not 
yet been lifted should be potted at once, and placed in Peach 
houses, vineries, or pits, till they can be removed to more favourable 
positions. These will supply bloom during the early spring. They 
are generally at their best about Easter.— Labor Omnia Vincit. 
PLAIN WORDS ON PRUNING FRUIT TREES. 
(ConcUided from joage 271.') 
Winter Pruning. 
Apple Trees .—The operator should look over all his trees in the 
autumn immediately the leaves have fallen. If summer pruning has 
been properly attended to the winter work will be light ; but many 
gardeners have not the time during the summer to attend to this matter, 
and consequently the pruning is left until the winter. This is not always 
advisable, inasmuch as the trees can be kept in better order by judicious 
summer pruning, and, moreover, made to produce better crops. In 
pruning a young tree the operator should consider the shape and form 
he wishes it to assume. Leading shoots for the formation of bush 
pyramids or espaliers should be well looked after. In pruning cut back 
to a bud that is on the outside of the shoot, which will help to keep the 
head open. Insert the knife directly opposite the bud, and then make a 
slanting cut upwards so as to come out a little over the bud. If the 
cut is made too low down the growth from the bud will be weak, and in 
some cases the shoot will get broken up by the wind. All dead branches 
and spurs should be cut away, as they give the trees an unsightly ap¬ 
pearance. The heads of the trees must be kept open ; cross branches 
should always be cut away, also any useless wood. The aim of the 
pruner should be to regulate the tree so as to give every leaf and bud 
sufficient room to develop ; then if the roots have been properly attended 
to a good crop of fruit should be the result. If previous iiistructions 
have been carried out Apple trees will require but little attention besides 
shortening side shoots and to thinning the head to induce fruit spurs to 
form. As regards trees that have not attained their full size and the 
leading shoots have been left for extension, these should be shortened 
back to about 18 inches, pruning to an outer bud. This chiefly applies 
to bushes, which are the best for gardens. A standard tree after the 
head is formed will need little pruning besides the cutting out of cross 
branches and not allowing the shoots to become crowded. 
Pear Trees .—Pears on the bush system should be pruned similarly 
to the Apple, but trees that are growing against walls require different 
