298 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 28, 1893. 
third prize going to Mr. J. Friend, Rooksnest Gardens, Godstone. 
There were seven competitors. Mr. B. Ryder, Orpington, was first with 
a collection of Tomatoes, the Frome Flower and Fruit Company second, 
and Mr. J. Welborn third. Messrs. J. Strong, E. Ryder, and J. Hall 
secured other prizes for Tomatoes. Messrs. T. Rivers and Son, G. Gold¬ 
smith, J. Friend, and J. Dean for Plums, and Messrs. G. Woodward, 
T. Rivers & Son, A. Offer, D. Fairweather, and H. Beanes for Peaches. 
Miscellaneous exhibits were numerous. Mr. G. Reynolds had a 
collection of Melons (silver medal), and Mr. C. Terry, The Gardens, 
Tatton Park, Brentford, some Pine Apples (silver-gilt medal). Mr. 0. 
Turner, Slough, exhibited a dish of very fine M^re de Manage Apples, 
the heaviest weighing 22J ozs. (highly commended). Mr. W. Mancey, 
Upper Gatton, Redhill, had Pitmaston Duchess Pears, the heaviest of 
which weighed 2 lbs. (bronze medal). Mr. Goldsmith gained a bronze 
medal for Pomegranates. Messrs. T. Rivers & Son, Sawbridgeworth, 
gained a silver medal for a collection of Grapes, Apples and Pears, and 
was awarded the first prize for a splendid table of fruit, including trees 
of the Bijou Apples. Mr. J. Dibben, Tilgate House, Crawley, had a 
collection of Pears (bronze medal) ; Mr. T. M. Le Pelley, Rusper, 
Sussex, Grapes (bronze medal), and Mr. W. Minifie, Sidmouth, Peasgood’s 
Nonesuch Apples (highly commended). 
In the Exhibition buildings many miscellaneous exhibits were also 
staged. Mr. J. Strong had Tomatoes (bronze medal), and Mr. 
W. Salmon, West Norwood, a large collection of vegetables (silver 
medal). Mr. Henry Merryweather, The Nurseries, Southwell, Notts, 
had a fine collection of Bramley’s Seedling Apples. Mr. A. Rawling 
secured a bronze medal for Dahlias, and Mr. Deverill, Banbury, a silver- 
gilt medal for a magnificent collection of Onions. Messrs. H. Cannell 
and Sons had Begonia blooms, as also did Mr. A. W. Young, South 
Norwood. A bronze medal went to Mr. T. A. Hester, The Links, 
Plumstead Common, for a collection of Grapes, Apples, Pears, and Nuts. 
Messrs. J. Veitcb & Sons, Chelsea, gained a gold medal for a group of 
Nepenthes. First-class certificates were awarded for N. Northiana, 
N. mixta, and N. Burkei excellens. The same firm sent a collection of 
cut hardy shrubs, and certificates were given for Crataegus pinnatifida 
major and Cornus stolonifera Spathi. Messrs. Veitch & Sons also gained 
certificates for Aglaonema rotundum, A. costatum, Cypripedium Niobe, 
C. Aphrodite, C. T. B. Haywood, C. Drysa, Catasetum Darwinianum, 
Pandanus paciflcus, Rhododendrons Princess Beatrice, Aphrodite, and 
Ajax. Mr. A. Waterer, Knaphill Nursery, had Conifers (silver medal), 
and Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons a grand collection of Dahlias and Apples, 
but no award had been made when our reporter left. Messrs. W. 
Paul & Son, Waltham Cross, gained a silver medal for a collection 
of cut Roses and Apples. A first-class certificate was awarded for 
Duke of York Rose, a new China variety. 
Mr. J. Watkins, Withington, Hereford, had a very fine collection of 
Apples (silver medal), as also did Mr. H. Berwick, Messrs. J. Veitch and 
Sons, G. Bunyard & Co. (silver-gilt medal), but pressure on our space 
prevents further reference. Messrs. W. Innes & Co., Littleover, Derby, 
staged some well-grown Grapes (silver-gilt medal), and Messrs. G. 
Spooner & Sons, Hounslow, had Apples (silver medal), Messrs. J. Laing 
and Sons secured a bronze medal for Apples and Pears, as also did Mr. 
A. H. Rickwood, Fulwell Park, Twickenham. Messrs. H. Cannell and 
Sons secured a silver medal for a collection of vegetables and fruit, and 
Messrs, Keynes, Williams & Co., Salisbury, a similar honour for Dahlias. 
Certificates were awarded for Dahlias Apollo, Lady Penzance, Gloriosa, 
Sovereign, and Phoebe, shown by the Salisbury firm. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Wall Trees. —Branch Thinning .—At no period of the year can 
the evil of overcrowding branches be better noticed than at the present 
time while the foliage is still on the trees. Horizontally trained trees 
often have double the number of branches they should have. The 
results are easily seen by the elongated spurs which are denuded of 
foliage at the base. This goes on continually when the sun cannot 
shine between the branches or spurs. Clusters of strong wood buds and 
weak fruit spurs struggle with each other. The lower branches usually 
suffer the most in this respect. The top tiers of branches and their 
extremities are often able to develop some fruitful spurs even when 
crowded, but it is seldom such can be found lower down the trees, which 
shows the great importance of light and air. Trees should be so 
managed that equal conditions can be secured to every part, then 
general fruitfulness will ensue. The main branches ought, as a rule, to 
be a foot asunder, except in the case of some vai;ieties of Pears which, 
making slender wood and small foliage, will do with the branches 9 or 
10 inches apart. Another point to be noticed is that branches with 
spurs standing out a considerable distance from the wall require more 
room between them than those on which the spurs are short. 
Spur Pruning .—Along with removing some of the branches spur- 
thinning is usually required, crowded elongated spurs being also 
conducive to unfruitfulness. Thinning spurs is usually done in the 
winter, but greater advantages follow if the operation is done while the 
foliage remains. In the first place it can be effected more thoroughly 
while the leaves are present on the trees to guide the judgment in the 
selection of the best to retain; while the further advantage results with 
autumn as against winter pruning, that the buds left receive at once the 
active energies of the trees, helping them to become transformed more 
quickly into prominent fruitful buds. 
Prunlngr Bush Apple Trees. —The present is also a suitable 
opportunity to thin out the wood of bush Apple trees. They will be 
fruitful at an earlier period if overcrowding is never allowed, and to 
effect this a little judicious thinning is necessary every season. Remove 
the badly placed shoots and those which intersect others, spoiling the 
appearance and contour of the trees. Severe shortening of the main 
shoots must not be adopted except where it is desired to originate more. 
Before young trees come into bearing long shoots are frequently made 
in one season. Such as these are backward in forming fruit buds if 
some slight check is not given. Therefore shorten the longest to half 
their length, others merely having their points removed, cutting to firmi 
wood, and to a bud pointing in the right direction for extension. Next 
season, instead of the sap rushing straight to the leading point it will 
be diverted into the lower buds, causing fruit buds to form or side shoots 
to be produced, which in the summer shorten to four leaves, thus aiding 
the formation of fruit buds and preventing the interior being over¬ 
crowded with long spray. 
Stopplngr Growths on Neglected Trees. —Scores of Apples and 
Pears grown on walls and in other restricted forms never receive any 
summer pruning, consequently the growth of foreright and side shoots 
on main branches is a continuation of the first growth, increasing in 
strength and length. Usually such shoots are shortened back at the 
present time, sometimes left for the winter pruning, with the idea that 
this is the correct method ; but in neither case can the formation of 
fruit buds be relied on to take place, owing to the excessive appropria¬ 
tion of sap by these rampant growths. It is, however, better to shorten 
them now to four or five leaves than to permit them to remain. Their 
removal will, at least, admit light and air to any weak fruit buds which 
may be clustering near the base, improving and strengthening them 
whereby they can take advantage of more rational treatment to be followed 
another season. The strongest growers will be benefited by root-pruning. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Suckers. —These, started early in September, or recently, 
should be raised near the glass as soon as they have made good roots, for 
it is essential that those intended to be wintered in small pots be brought 
forward very gradually, so as to secure a sturdy base. This must not be 
sought by withdrawing the plants from bottom heat, as that would 
render the growth stunted. When the suckers have well filled their 
pots with roots the strongest plants may be transferred to the pots in 
which they are to fruit. 
Growing Stock .—Young plants will need free ventilation on all 
favourable occasions to maintain them in a healthy sturdy condition, 
keeping the bottom heat about the roots at 80°, and maintaining a 
temperature from fire heat of 60° to 65° at night, with 6° to 10° rise by 
day. Water the plants when they require it, employing weak and tepid 
liquid manure, and avoid the use of the syringe too frequently ; merely 
sprinkling the paths and pit sides morning and evening will suffice in 
all but very bright weather. 
Fruiting Plants .—Afford these a night temperature of 70°, 80° to 90°" 
during the day, closing at 85°. The watering should only be moderate 
at the roots, as an excess is liable to cause the fruit to become black at 
the centre. Moderate moisture also must only be accorded, for when 
kept very close and moist the crowns are apt to become unduly large, 
and the glass should be kept clean, with the plants as near to it a& 
practicable without the crowns touching. 
Cberrles. —With plenty of air and not too much heat up to the 
stoning period Cherries may be had in April or May. They can be 
grown either planted out or in pots. Inexpensive houses with boarded 
sides and a glass roof answer as well as more elaborate structures. It ia 
necessary that the house be well ventilated both at top and bottom, and 
efficiently heated. Wooden ventilators should be provided at the front 
or sides just above the floor line, and at the top to open the whole length 
of the house. In addition to this drain tiles may be laid in the soil in 
channels about 6 feet asunder crosswise of the house, with the ends taken 
outside and above the surface by elbows, and the drains should have 
sockets at 3 feet within the house, and then 6 feet apart, with pipes- 
coming above the suiface. With caps for the outside openings and 
similar ones for the inside air can be admitted by these drains in the 
severest weather. The trees may be planted out in front of a lean-to 
and be trained to a trellis fixed 12 inches from the glass, the trees¬ 
having stems reaching to within a few inches of the trellis. The roof 
lights for planted out trees should be moveable, and it is better to allow 
the trees to occupy the whole of tbe root than have them partly so, and 
others against the back wall. 
A lean-to structure is best for early forcing, and two rows of 4-inch 
pipes in front will suffice for a house of 10 to 12 feet width. Span-roofed 
houses will accommodate trees on both sides of them, and for widths of 
18 to 24 feet will require two rows of 3 and 4-inch hot-water pipes 
respectively on each side. The border should be wholly inside and not 
made all at once. A 4 to 6 feet width of border according to the size of 
the trees is sufficient to commence with. It should be drained 9 inches- 
to a foot deep, having a drain to carry off superfluous water, placing 
the roughest at the bottom and least coarse on top, coveiing with a 
3 inch thickness of old mortar rubbish. From 21 to 24 inches depth of 
soil is ample. Good turfy loam four parts, lime rubbish from an old 
