320 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t October 5, 1893. 
this must not be carried too far where black Grapes are hanging or they 
will lose colour through exposure to the sun. 
Young Vines .—These often have a disposition to keep growing to a 
late period, and it should be checked by stopping the shoots moderately, 
but not so much so as to start the principal buds, as would be likely by 
large reductions at one time and too closely. It will also accelerate the 
ripening of the wood, which may be farther facilitated by a somewhat 
high temperature and rather dry atmosphere by day, shutting off the 
heat and keeping the ventilators open by night except when frost 
prevails, for the Vines must not become frozen whilst they are full 
of sap. 
Late Grapes .—These are now thoroughly ripe except where the 
Vines are in bad condition, or where started late. In the latter case 
little benefit is derived from fire heat at this season in ripening the 
Grapes, but it should be used where the wood is not thoroughly ripened 
for the next year’s prospects, maintaining a temperature of 70° to 75° 
by day and 65° at night, falling 5° through the night, allowing an 
advance to 80° or 85° from sun heat, continuing this until the Grapes 
are ripe, at least until the wood is brown and hard. Where the fruit 
is thoroughly ripe—as it should be, for in that condition only can Grapes 
be expected to winter satisfactorily—and the wood thoroughly matured, 
all spray or laterals may be removed down to the main buds, ventilating 
freely on all favourable occasions. Fire heat will only be necessary to 
prevent the temperature falling below 50°. To prevent dust settling 
upon the berries raking or sweeping must not be practised. Mats or 
clean dry straw laid over inside borders will to some extent prevent 
evaporation, assist in keeping the atmosphere dry, and prevent the soil 
cracking. The outside borders must be covered if the fruit is to keep 
satisfactorily. Glass lights are best, wooden shutters good, and tarpaulin 
over dry bracken or straw answers well. About 6 inches thickness of 
dry leaves, and a little litter over them, is all that is given in many 
cases, and when the borders are well drained the Grapes keep plump 
and sound to a late period. 
IVXelons. —Water must now be applied carefully to plants with the 
fruit advanced towards ripening, but those with fruit swelling must not 
be allowed to become dry at the roots. Keep up moderate moisture by 
damping for such plants, available surfaces being sprinkled in the 
morning and afternoon. Add a little soil to the hillocks of the latest 
plants as the roots protrude. Kemove all superfluous growths as they 
appear, and maintain a temperature of 65° to 70° at night, 70° to 75° by 
day, up to 85° or 90° with sun. Keep the bottom heat steady at about 
80°. Fruit ripening will be the better of a little extra fire heat and 
air constantly, which will do much to impart flavour. Any fruit it is 
desirable to keep for a time should be cut with a portion of stem, and be 
kept in a dry airy room. Fruits that are nearly ripe in frames may also 
be cut with a goodly portion of stem and be placed in a warm airy house 
in the full sun, and they will ripen better than in a moist atmosphere 
or where there is a deficiency of warmth. 
THE KITCHEN GABDEN. 
Celery. —All things considered Celery looks remarkably strong this 
season, and the quality and keeping properties ought also to be satis¬ 
factory, Where there are partial failures this, in many cases, is largely 
due to want of moisture at the root. Ordinary rainfall has little or 
no effect upon Celery in trenches. What the plants want are occa¬ 
sional thorough soakings of water or liquid manure, and that not merely 
prior to commencing to mould up, but also for some time afterwards. 
Before either the first, second, or even third addition of soil is banked 
up against the rows the soil about the roots should be tested with a 
pointed stick. If found, as it most probably will be, dry, or approaching 
that condition, give a heavy watering, and delay moulding up for another 
day. Unless these precautions are taken the Celery will be worthless 
before the season is very far advanced, and will seed prematurely. 
Eartlilngr up Celery. —The latest rows ought now to be partly 
moulded up. Pull away the small lower leaves and any suckers there 
may be, and either tie or hold the outer stalks well up together prior to 
placing about 3 inches of fine soil about them, re-loosening the stalks so 
as not to unduly confine the hearts. If slugs are troublesome, soot, or 
soot and lime, should be freely dusted among the plants before the first 
and subsequent additions of soil are made. In extreme cases it is a 
good plan to wholly surround the stalks with either fine dry ashes or 
burnt earth. Celery also keeping well when thus enclosed. A very large 
amount of these materials is not required if boards are placed well up 
to the rows when each addition is made, and soil being banked against 
to the boards ; the latter can be withdrawn and shifted along to the 
next length. The moulding up of the earlier and successional rows 
should also be proceeded with, this being completed at about three 
times. Not till the hearts are well advanced, or say from a fortnight to 
three weeks after the previous moulding up, should more soil be placed 
against the plants. This should be made fine, and not pressed hard 
against the stalks, the latter being disposed so as to exclude the soil from 
the hearts. At the final moulding enclose about one-half of the leaves, 
making the soil rather firm about these with the hand, and round off 
the ridge so as to throw off heavy rains and snow water. 
Cardoons. —These also absorb much moisture at the roots, and the 
stalks will be dry and tough if the plants suffer from want of water. 
Therefore give more water if necessary. In order to blanch and keep 
Cardoons effectually the best of the leafstalks ought to be gathered well 
up together, and kept so by means of hay bands wound closely around 
them. It is rather rough work, but if the men are furnished with 
gloves and canvas jackets it can be easily accomplished. Bank the soil 
well up to the plants gradually, or much as Celery is finally 
moulded up. 
laeeks. —When the plants are dropped into deep fairly wide holes, 
formed with a dibber, the blanching will be effected without any further 
trouble. Should the Leeks be planted in trenches or it may be nearly 
on the level then moulding up must be done. A bandage of strong 
brown paper or a common drain pipe split in halves placed round the 
stems would prevent the soil from finding its way down the leaves, but 
for ordinary purposes there is no necessity to take this precaution. 
Leeks are perfectly hardj, and need not be heavily moulded up, as in the 
case of Celery by way of a protective measure. 
Onions. —Those which were either sown late last spring, or else 
failed to come up till very late in the season, have in many cases failed to 
“ bulb ” properly. When this happens, the necks are thick and the tops 
erect and green. Instead of pulling all up and attempting to ripen 
them sufficiently to store for winter use, the better plan is to pull those 
that have formed bulbs, the tops also being limp, and to finish the 
ripening of these, either in an old-fashioned oven after the bread is 
drawn, or else in a dry warm place under glass. Let the green Onions, 
or all that are still erect and growing, remain where they are, these 
being drawn according as they are wanted for use. They will 
survive an ordinarily severe frost, and in any case leaving them alone is 
the only way in very many instances of being sure of a supply of Onions. 
Otber Hoot Crops.— Beet, Carrots, Salsafy, and such like were 
restarted into active growth by the August rains, and are still growing 
strongly. Having plenty of strong leaves there is little likelihood of 
frosts injuring the first-named, and all will most probably keep better if 
left where they are for a fortnight longer. 
Spinach.— Winter Spinach is in a very promising condition. In 
many cases the seed germinated well, and unless the plants are freely 
thinned out directly the leaves are large enough to use premature seed¬ 
ing will take place. Stirring among the plants with a pointed stick and 
between the rows with a Dutch hoe are good preventives of grub attacks 
and the increase of slugs. 
Protecting Vegetables. — Globe Artichokes are stronger and 
more plentiful than at any time previous this season. Seeing that they 
afford a good and well appreciated change it would pay well to protect 
some of the best of them whenever severe frosts are imminent. A single 
row or small breadth of plants could be easily protected by means of 
a few stout upright and cross stakes, these supporting mats or canvas 
covering. Odd plants throughout a large breadth might be roughly 
protected with large branches of evergreens securely fixed over them. 
Some of the more forward heads could be cut, and kept for a few days 
with their stalks placed in water. Autumn Cauliflowers and the earliest 
Broccoli are spoilt by a moderately severe frost; but it is rather too 
early to lift and store these under cover of some kind. All ought to be 
gone over frequently, strong leaves being gathered from old stumps and 
carefully tucked over the more forward hearts. Rows of medium 
height late Peas might be protected with blinds and such like, branches 
of evergreens also affording sufficient protection in some cases. Have 
sideboards fixed round breadths of late Lettuce and the more 
forward Endive, with sufficient cross bars to support light mats or other 
protective material whenever frosts are anticipated. Tomatoes against 
walls have formed extra good late clusters of fruit, and seeing that 
these will ripen better on the plants than off if properly protected. 
The leaves being healthy, and not cut back unduly, afford a certain 
amount of protection ; but these ought to be supplemented by mats, 
blinds, or spare frame and pit lights. Should there be any signs of the 
disease commencing to spread, then ought the clusters of green and 
ripening fruit to be cut at once, and suspended in warm, dry quarters to 
colour. The larger green fruit will colour in due course, and be avail¬ 
able for cooking purposes, but the small green fruit is only fit for 
pickling. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Plants that have been standing outside 
would now be better if they could be placed under cover. Avoid starting 
them into soft growth if the plants are to flower profusely and continue 
to do so for a lengthened period. Shallow cold frames will suit these 
plants for some weeks, so that the lights can be tilted or closed at night 
to protect them from frosts that may occur at any time. Protect the 
plants also from heavy rains, but on all flne occasions throw off the 
lights. If some plants are needed in flower arrange the forwardest in a 
light airy structure fairly close to the glass. Admit plenty of air to the 
plants, also give a little artificial manure to the surface of the soil. Do 
not overwater, for this proves as detrimental to the plants as heavy 
rains. Remove from all plants that are placed in frames early flowers 
that are already showing, also bad leaves. Late propagated plants now 
in 3-inch pots that have been kept in frames may be placed into slightly 
larger pots, and if kept in frames, or in a light airy house where they 
can be given a little warmth, they will produce flowers for a long time. 
Ivy-leaved Varieties. —These are most useful, and if they are well 
ripened by standing outside and are housed at once they will yield 
flowers for some time. However useful the Zonals may be the flowers 
of Ivy varieties are very effective in a cut state, especially the delicate 
shades of pink. 
rrencli and Taney Pelargoniums. —These may he placed in their 
winter quarters, such as on shelves close to the glass in cool, airy houses. 
In these positions with careful watering the plants winter well. The 
earliest plants should have the points of the shoots removed before they 
are placed on shelves, and if in 3-inch pots they can be placed into 
5-inch pots. In potting firmly press the soil, which should consist of 
