342 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE ANB COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ October 12, 1893. 
Daisy Seale and Roy Douglas Seale. Mr. W. Cross, Green Cottage, 
Sidmouth, staged two plants of a dwarf growing dark coloured seedling 
Japanese Chrysanthemum, and Mr. J. Haws, Clapton, N.E , had water¬ 
ing cans in variety, Mr. J. H. Witty, Nunhead Cemetery, had a 
group of Chrysanthemums, and Mr. W. Wells, Barlswood Nursery, 
sent some cut blooms. Mr. S. Mortimer, Swiss Nursery, Farnham, 
showed Dahlias, Stephanotis, and Tomatoes. Messrs. Pitcher and 
Manda sent a stand of new Chrysanthemums, as also did Mr. R. Owen, 
Maidenhead. Messrs. W. Edwards & Son, Sherwood, Nottingham, 
exhibited examples of their new “ Edwardian ” vases, which are 
admirably adapted for all kinds of floral decoration when filled with 
Ferns. 
As before mentioned, fruit was largely shown. Mr. J. Watkins, 
Withington, Hereford, had a collection of Apples and Pears ; and Mr. 
C. C. Tudway, The Cedars, Wells, sent a dish of splendid Doyenn4 du 
Comice Pears. Mr. J. Masterson, Shipston-on-Stonr, sent two dishes of 
Pitmaston Duchess Pears; Mr. T. Perkins, Thornham Hall, Suffolk, 
Hero of Lockinge Melon ; and Mrs. Barret, Renfrew Villa, South 
Ealing, some stewing Pears. Messrs. J. Laing & Sons, Forest Hill, had 
a fine collection of Apples and Pears. Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons, 
Swanley, staged Apples and a splendid collection of vegetables, also 
some Begonia blooms. Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, sent Apples 
and Pears, and some very fine Dahlias tastefully arranged. 
The prizes offered by Messrs. Sutton & Sons for vegetables brought 
forth a fair competition, Mr. T. Wilkins secured the leading prizes for 
Cauliflower and Beet; Mr. C. Osman, Sutton, being second in each case. 
Mr. C. Waite was first for Carrots, Leeks, Onions, Celery, and Tomatoes. 
The other prizewinners in various classes were Messrs. T. Wilkins, S. T. 
Cook, and D. M. Hoy let. 
WOKK.f’oil™EWEEK.. '{S 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN, 
Xlftlngr Fruit Trees. —One of the surest methods of inducing 
fruitfulness in young trees is to lift and replant. This checks strong 
growth and keeps the roots of a fibrous character, which favours sturdy, 
short-jointed growth. In some places Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, 
and Plums make late growth which does not ripen well. Lifting, when 
the trees are not too large, will check the late growth, and benefit the 
wood already made by encouraging it to ripen earlier, also preventing 
strong growth the following season. With the fruits mentioned the 
work of lifting may be proceeded with early in October. It should be 
done quickly, not on any account exposing the roots for a lengthened 
period to dry air. Do not commence too close to the stems, as it is 
important that all the fibrous roots be preserved and kept moist. Sever 
the long and strong roots found, trimming them smoothly and leaving 
no jagged ends. Replant a little higher than formerly, and bring some 
of the fibrous roots nearer the surface, affording all good soil to ramify 
in, compressing it firmly about them. Mulch the surface and a foot 
beyond the space the roots extend with half-decayed manure. Previously 
to this water the trees to maintain the foliage fresh, applying shade also 
for a time if the leaves flag, and syringe regularly every dry day. With 
these precautions lifted trees with a large proportion of foliage will soon 
make fresh roots and be much improved by the slight check given. 
Stations for Planting Fruit Trees. —Where it is not possible 
to prepare a large extent of ground by digging or trenching it all over, 
prepared stations may be formed at the required distances. They should 
be 6 feet square, and hold 2 feet of good soil, resting on a gravelly, 
chalky, or stony subsoil, which insures perfect drainage. Land with a 
clayey, wet, and retentive subsoil will,*in order to prevent the roots 
striking into an undesirable medium, causing strong unfruitful growth, 
require an artificial foundation of concrete, across which may be laid 
drain pipes connected with a main drain and outlet. The depth of the 
concrete should be 4 inches, over which and the drain pipes must be 
laid 6 to 9 inches of rubble made secure from being choked with soil by a 
layer of turf grass side downwards, 
Dutances Between Stations. —The distances between stations must 
be guided chiefly by the fact whether the trees are on the free or 
restricted stocks, this being mostly important with Apples and Pears, 
which, in the esse of large orchard standards grown on free stocks, 
should be 24 to 30 feet apart. Plums and Cherries may be planted in 
stations formed at similar distances. Dwarf and standard-trained trees 
for walls may be for Apricots, Plums, Peaches, Nectarines, and Cherries 
15 to 20 feet asunder ; while Pears on Pear stocks should be 20 feet, and 
on Quince stocks 12 feet apart. Horizontally trained trees for espaliers 
and walls ought to be Apples on Crab stocks. Pears on Pear stocks, and 
Plums 20 feet apart ; for Apples on the Paradise, and Pears on Quince 
stocks 12 feet suffices. Bushes and pyramids on free stocks should be 
8 to 10 feet apart, 2 feet less when root-pruned. Apples on Paradise 
stocks. Pears on the Quince 6 feet apart. 
Root-pruning.—.When fruit trees grown on the various restrictive 
systems assume year after year a chronic state of unfruitfulness there 
18 something wrong either with the roots or the methods of managing 
the branches. Making too much wood in summer, before any attempt 
is made by the cultivator to restrain the natural vigour within proper 
bounds, is usually the cause of destroying the necessary balance between 
root and branch. Summer pruning does much to restrain the growth of 
wood and concentrate the sap in the fruit-bearing spurs, as well as in the 
formation of buds that will eventually be fruiting spurs. But some¬ 
times, owing to the excessive vigour of strong roots, correct pruning and 
branch management are not sufficiently capable of sustaining trees in a 
permanent bearing condition. Root-pruning then becomes absolutely 
necessary. The production of a large amount of gross wood and corre¬ 
spondingly ample arfa of leafage has a powerful effect on the roots, 
which, as a rule, when receiving extraordinary stimulus, descend 
perpendicularly. In doing so, especially in rich ground, they become 
very strong. The same result also occurs in a moist subsoil. The results 
then are coarse, thick roots followed naturally in the growing season by 
gross watery wood. 
Mulctalng- Fruit Trees. — While the ground is comparatively 
warm and the roots unusually active there is no better time than the 
present to assist weakly trees. The benefits in some cases may not be 
apparent until next season, when it will be visible in stronger growth. 
Trees with abundance of fruit buds require some assistance, in order 
that the bulk of these may become plump and prominent before active 
movement of the sap ceases. A mulch of rich manure over the roots is 
of material assistance now, the virtues contained in it being washed 
down to the roots and stored in the soil for future use; the residue left 
can be raked off in the spring for the sun to warm the soil. 
Top-dresslngr Peacbes and ITectarlnes. —Old trees will he 
greatly benefited by having the loose surface soil pared off down to the 
roots, being careful not to injure the fibres, and a dressing of fresh 
compost supplied chiefly composed of turfy loam, mixed with some 
calcareous matter, such as pulverised lime rubble, a little manure, and 
charcoal, spreading it over the roots as far as the latter extend, com¬ 
pressing it firm, and finishing with a light mulch of short manure. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Young Plants. —Arrange these so that they will obtain the 
fullest benefit of light and air. Make an inspection of the plants about 
once a week, and when water is needed apply it copiously at about the 
same temperature as the bed. Ventilate freely when the external con¬ 
ditions are favourable, paying particular attention to this in the early 
part of the day. As the sun heat declines a corresponding diminution 
of temperature must take place at night until it reaches the winter 
standard of 65° to 60°, and 65° in the daytime by artificial means. 
Plants to Fruit Early. —Queens are the best for this purpose, but to 
insure their starting into fruit with certainty they should be given a 
period of comparative rest after making a good growth. Plants intended 
to show fruit early in the year ought to be kept in a temperature of 
about 65° in the daytime by artificial means, 60° at night, ventilating at 
70°, closing at that temperature, and allowing the bottom heat to fall 
to 70°. Water the plants only when necessary, not, however, permitting 
them to become so dry at the roots as to cause limpness of the foliage. 
Plants Showing Fruit. —Any plants now showing fruit will be 
valuable, as it will come in when it is scarce, therefore afford such 
plants the best position in the house. Maintain a temperature in this 
department of 70° at night, 76° artificially by day, up to 85° or 90° with 
sun, closing at 85°, sprinkling the pathways when their surfaces become 
dry, and sprinkle the plants occasionally on fine afternoons. The 
bottom heat should be kept steady at 85° to 90°. Examine the plants 
about once a week for watering, and if any require it afford a copious 
supply of clear liquid manure at about the same temperature as the 
beds. Particular care must be taken not to over-water, as that has a 
tendency to cause the fruit to become black at the centre, which affects 
its keeping. 
Peaches and XTectarlnes. — Earliest House. — The trees in the 
earliest house must now be pruned, and everything put in proper order 
for a fresh start. If the growths have been kept rather thin, and care 
taken to equalise the vigour, there will be little need for the knife. Any 
weak wood may be cut out in favour of sturdy and well ripened^ 
shortening leading growths, so as to originate shoots for furnishing the 
trees. Where too crowded the bearing shoots may be thinned. Severe 
winter pruning is undesirable, as it generally results in spasmodic and. 
sappy growth the following year. Untie the branches from the trellis, 
cleanse the house thoroughly, and dress the trees with an approved 
insecticide before securing them to the trellis. Allow plenty of space 
in the ligatures for the swelling of the branches. Remove the surface 
soil down to tbe roots, and supply a dressing 2 inches thick of fresh 
turfy loam, with an 8-inch potful of steamed bonemeal and a similar 
quantity of wood ashes to every large barrowload of loam. If wood 
ashes cannot be had use half the quantity of kainit. Make firm, and 
follow with a good watering if the lights are fixed. The outside border 
should be dressed in a similar manner. The roof lights if removed may 
remain off until bad weather sets in, otherwise ventilate to the fullest 
extent. 
Second Early House. —The trees to be started at the new year or 
soon afterwards will now have all the foliage down, and it is best to 
prune and dress them, also cleanse the house without delay. If the trees 
have been properly managed there will be little wood to cut out. But 
it will be necessary to look them over and remove any useless parts 
having escaped attention. Any shoots too long may be cut back to a 
triple bud or a wood bud, making sure of the latter whether the bud be 
a double or triple or single one, leaving sufficient wood for securing a 
