October 19. 1893 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
865 
foliage. Do not allow the atmosphere to become dry, or else these pests 
will spread rapidly, and apply sufficient water at the roots to keep the 
•oil moist. The temperature for the majority of these plants may be 
about 60°. Seedlings that are large enough can be placed singly into 
small pots. These should be kept in brisk heat and the pots plunged 
where practicable amongst cocoa-nut fibre refuse where they can enjoy 
gentle bottom heat. This will keep the plants steadily moving and 
prevent having to water them too frequently. 
Begronlaa. —Those that have been prepared for autumn and winter 
flowering and have been in a cold frame up to the present time should 
be placed where they will enjoy a night temperature of 65°. 
B. Knowsleyana will soon come into flower and be useful for the 
conservatory, while B. Ingram! will continue to blossom for a long time. 
Young plants of this variety that are just rooted should be pinched and 
placed into 2-inch pots. These when repotted early in the spring will 
be useful for various forms of decoration. The varieties of B. nitida 
may be placed into larger pots, and if kept steadily moving will flower 
freely during the early spring months. B. semperflorens and its 
varieties will, if given a temperature of 50°, come quickly into flower and 
continue to grow and yield their large useful trusses for several months. 
Such kinds as Weltoniensis that are past their best should have less 
water supplied to them, and then be stored away in a cool dry place for 
the winter. 
Amaryllis. —Where these are properly grown, and have been fully 
exposed to the sun, the bulbs should be well ripened. The pots con¬ 
taining the bulbs may now be stored under the stage of any cool airy 
house. Plants that are not thoroughly matured should have every ray 
of sunshine and a free circulation of air. Do not withhold water from 
them too suddenly, for nothing is gained by unduly hurrying them to 
rest. They must, if they are to flower well, be properly matured, and 
given every chance to store up food in their bulbs before they are 
completely dried. 
Eplptayllums.— Where these have been well ripened by exposure to 
the sun and have enjoyed free ventilation they would soon come into 
flower if placed in a temperature of 50°. These plants are particularly 
effective when arranged so as to stand out of a groundwork of Adiantum 
cuneatum. Less water will be needed at their roots, but by no means 
keep them dust dry, such treatment will soon ruin them. 
Eucharls amazonlca.— It is a mistake to allow many plants of 
this to come into flower at one time, because very frequently some of 
the blooms are wasted. Those plants that have finished their growth 
should be removed from the stove to a temperature of 60°. Cold 
draughts should be avoided, and the plants must receive less water at 
their roots ; but on no account allow them to suffer by an insufficient 
supply. They will rest under these conditions, and in a short time, 
if again introduced into brisk heat, will push itp their flower spikes 
freely. A long succession can be maintained by resting a few plants 
at a time, 
Panoratlums.— Give these plants less water at their roots, but do 
not unduly dry them so that they lose their foliage. If placed in a 
temperature of 55° they will be safe until it is necessary to start them 
again into growth during the early months of the year. When kept in 
too much heat during the winter the plants are very liable to the attacks 
of thrips. 
Anthurlum Schertzerlanum. —Plants that have matured their 
growth and are required to flower early may be removed to a house in 
which a temperature of 50° is maintained. If cold draughts are avoided 
and less water given they will rest perfectly under these conditions, and 
flower profusely when replaced in a higher temperature. 
When bees gather on a low bough or bush they may be at once 
shaken into the swarm catcher, or if they are on the ground it may 
be placed over them, when in a short time they will ascend into it, 
accelerated by a free use of a carbolised feather tied to the end of 
a long rod. These carbolised feathers will dislodge bees from 
thickets, crevices, roofs, and other inaccessible places ; in fact, by 
judicious management they may be almost made to swarm in the 
very place wanted. Bees sometimes settle on trees at a great height, 
and on branches that cannot be cut. Wherever the swarm catcher 
can be applied, from the ground or by the aid of ladders, it ought 
to be adjusted to the proper height, held over or under the bees as 
is most suitable. In the latter case they must be shaken into it 
by a helper or by the aid of a shaker, a hook fastened to a polo 
or wire. In the former instance the carbolised feather hastens 
the ascent of the bees, and when all or most of them are in and 
covered with a cloth the hive may be lowered to the ground. On 
reaching the ground the hive is at once inverted, and after standing 
a few seconds to allow the bees time to settle, raised a little to 
allow the flying bees to enter. 
When bees settle in inaccessible places on trees, whether the 
branches may be cut or not, the hiver may be applied succt'ssfully 
by being provided with cords, a piece of hooping or other material 
having a hook on one end, and provision at different heights for 
fastening a pulley, which is suspended so that it comes under or 
over where the bee-keeper wants it. For example, if a swarm is 
settled a long way out from our reach, the hook with the pulley and 
cord is hung directly where it is most convenient, the swarm- 
catcher is then drawn up right under or over the bees, and is held 
or placed in proper position by the aid of a forked and pointed 
hook, when the bees may be either shaken or driven into the swarm 
catcher. When the branch may be cut with the last-named hook, 
push the cord forward with it till the loop hangs free. Then take 
hold of the loop with it, pull it towards you, pass the end of the 
cord through the loop, and draw tight. Now pass the other end of 
the cord through the suspended pulley and hang it in position, 
when the bee-keeper may venture from his safe standing near the 
bole of the tree to the point where the branch has to be cut, after 
which, by the aid of the hooks, the bees may be guided to an open¬ 
ing where they can be lowered to the ground with safety. The 
above plan is a good one, and is far more easily performed than it 
appears to be on paper. 
On page 344 a slight omission occurs in the last paragraph. It 
should read, “ As a substitute for the safety cages those sent from 
Austria cannot be surpassed,” and then follow on as printed.— 
A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
(To be continued.) 
1 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Practical Hints for Beginners. 
(^Continued from page 334.') 
Bees sometimes complete swarming in little more than a 
minute from the commencement, and at others are so tardy that ten 
to fifteen minutes may be occupied, so few bees leaving that a tyro 
might not suspect they were going to swarm. Sometimes, too, they 
cluster and settle in five minutes from the time they commenced to 
leave the hive, while at others they will fly about for hours, often 
gathering in many small clusters. If the weather is fine, they will 
in the latter case come all right, but should it rain there is a great 
risk of most of the bees being destroyed. A few oilcloths at hand 
to cover the largest clusters (which the queen, if not present, soon 
joins) often saves a swarm. The beginner must also learn that 
many swarms leave without the queen accompanying them. In 
that case they sometimes join other hives, or return to the parent 
one. The appearances of bees on these occasions must be learned 
by experience. To describe the matter properly on paper is 
scarcely possible. 
•^•All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Insects on Vine (6*. G. K .).—The insect is a species of Tetrix, 
closely allied to the grasshopper proper, the section Gryllina, and is an 
undescribed (if British) species. It no doubt lives on the leaves of the 
trees it is found on, for it belongs to the same family as the locusts ; 
but it may only be on the Vine now tor the purpose of depositing its 
eggs in the crevices of the bark. Whether it is injurious to the Vine 
or not we are unable to say. This, however, can easily be ascertained 
by careful observation. If you find such to be the case we should be 
obliged by specimens of the leaves eaten, also fresh ones of the insect. 
Flowerlngr Plants for Orowlngr Under Beecb Trees (iL C.). 
—We have had very little success with Winter Aconite, Snowdrops, 
Daffodils, and similar bulbous plants that do fairly well under trees, for 
the roots of the Beech trees form so complete a network and run so near 
the surface, combined with the dense foliage, as to prevent the growth of 
