410 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 2, 1893. 
WOKK.Fo^™ WEEK.. 
Km 
HAEDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Planting- Fruit Trees.— Early in November is a good time for 
carrying out this important -work. Advantage can thus be taken of the 
activity of the roots, which it is well known are disposed to freely produce 
fibres at this season, and to quickly repair any damage done to them in 
the process of lifting. Under favourable circumstances trees planted 
early become well established before the winter, with the result that 
they start freely into growth the following year. 
Tlie Best Soil. —Good loam of a holding character, rich enough to 
encourage a firm vigorous growth without inducing grossness, consti¬ 
tutes a typical fruit soil generally. It should be clean, not tainted from 
the effects of powerful manures, friable to work, and well drained, 
either naturally or artificially. Stone fruits like calcareous soil best. 
If deficient in this matter add pulverised mortar rubbish or fresh lime. 
Beptli of Soil. —An average depth of 2 feet will usually meet the 
needs of most fruit trees. In light and dry soils an additional depth of 
(5 to 12 inches will be of advantage. In wet soils a rather less ’depth 
than 2 feet will be beneficial in keeping the roots in a warmer medium ; 
indeed, in some cases it may be desirable to plant in mounds raised 
above the surface, so that warmth and comparative dryness of the soil 
may be secured, fruit trees never thriving with stagnation at the roots. 
Manure.— In preparing soil just previous to planting fruit trees it 
is not desirable to add manure unless the ground is very poor. The best 
time to give it is in the spring or winter previously, heavily if necessary 
then, working the ground deeply, and taking off a crop of Potatoes or 
something which will sweeten the soil by abstracting from it some of 
the stimulating elements which cause rank gross growth in fruit trees. 
Obtaining- Trees. —Order fruit trees from nurserymen as early as 
possible, first comers being the best served. Personal selection is pre¬ 
ferable, though those who cannot do this may depend on good firms 
doing that business for them as well or better than themselves if supplied 
with particulars as to soil, position, form of trees desired, and varieties 
required. In the case of Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries, it must be 
stated whether the varieties are wanted for cooking or dessert purposes. 
It should also be noted when ordering whether they are desired to be 
productive at an early period, or develop into large trees before heavy 
crops are expected. Trees of the former class will be on dwarfing stocks, 
which cause early productiveness, and such examples may be planted 
closer together. The latter are on free stocks, consequently ought to be 
planted at maximum distances. 
The Best Trees.— Trees adapted for ready removal and furnished 
with abundance of healthy, fibrous roots are usually on hand in 
nurseries. They have been brought to this desirable condition with a 
view to being quickly moved without feeling the effects to an injurious 
extent, and when packed round with moist material to keep the roots 
from drying, then forwarded promptly to their destination, they are sure 
to do well if properly planted. The shoots should be clean and vigorous, 
medium in length and thickness. Avoid strong trees with very gross 
shoots, which will have correspondingly thick roots, lifting badly, and 
failing under the best circumstances to become established quickly. 
Another important point is to choose medium sized or small trees. It is 
better to plant small trees than to depend on large specimens if they 
come from a distance. Moving larger trees from one part of a garden 
to another, however, can be effected readily without suffering if they 
have been previously prepared for the process. 
Boot Treatment. —Having already pointed out how important a 
good supply of fibrous roots are to the speedy re-eatablishment of newly 
planted trees, it is equally important that roots, whatever their character, 
be kept moist from the time they are lifted until spread out in fresh 
soil. Cut smoothly all wounded, jagged and broken ends. Mutilated 
roots do not readily push fibres forth, indeed they often fail to do so at 
all, but gradually decay and die back. Any rambling roots may be 
shortened back within reasonable bounds, the whole being left so disposed 
that they can be spread evenly throughout the soil when planting. 
Planting. —The holes for the reception of the trees should be dug 
wide enough so that the roots can be laid out horizontally from the stem 
outwards without being turned upwards at the ends. No great depth 
is necessary ; it will suffice if the upper layers of roots are within 3 or 
4 inches of the surface when planting is finished. See that the stems 
are not sunk lower than they previously were. This is an infallible 
guide in forming the proper depth of the holes and in disposing the 
roots. To plant below the earth mark causes the roots to be placed 
deeper than needful, with the result that trees do not thrive properly. 
Arrange the roots in layers, stretching them out to their full extent and 
having fine loamy soil in readiness mixed with a little burnt refuse, 
sprinkle the mixture upon them from the stem outwards. By this 
means the fibres are fixed in position and in the right direction. Treat 
each layer the same, making the soil firm by gentle pressure, not roughly 
treading, which often ruthlessly breaks the roots near their origin with 
the stem. After the fibres of each layer have been fixed and covered less 
care will be necessary in throwing on the soil for forming a base for the 
next layer, but the roots should be evenly covered. 
Staking.— All trees must be securely staked to prevent movement 
by the wind, and consequent dislocation of the roots out of their proper 
position. Standards may have a strong support down each side of the 
stem, round which some soft material should be wound to prevent the 
ligatures employed injuiing the bark. The best tying materials are soft 
yielding copper wire and stout flexible cord. 
Watering. —As dry weather is the best period for planting, it may 
occur that the ground is more than ordinarily free from moisture. Under 
such conditions water immediately after planting may be applied. It 
will fill up the interstices between the soil and roots, and help to con¬ 
solidate the soil about them. 
Mulcblng. —The last detail in connection with planting consists in 
mulching the surface over the roots with short strawy manure 3 inches 
thick. The mulch prevents frost entering the soil and injuring the roots, 
retards the escape of moisture, and serves to retain the natural heat in 
the soil longer than would otherwise be the case. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early-forced. — The Vines for affording ripe Grapes ha 
April must now be started, whether they be in pots or planted out. 
Those in pots are much the best, especially where bottom heat is provided, 
which, however, is in either case indispensable, yet in early forcing 
operations it is desirable. Place, therefore, fermenting materials in the 
pits in which those in pots are stood on pedestals formed with bricks. 
Do not allow the heat about the pots to exceed 70° to 75°—say, that 
at the base of the pots, and 65° higher up at the commencement. 
Suspend the canes in a horizontal position over the fermenting materials 
to insure a regular break. Syringe three times a day in bright weather, 
and when dull omit the late syringing, keeping every part of the house 
moist by sprinkling as the surfaces become dry. A temperature of 50° 
to 55° at night, and 60° to 65° by day will not be too much to begin 
with, as Vines started at this season require a higher temperature to 
excite the buds than those started later. Apply water judiciously in the 
early stages of growth, only keeping the soil moderately moist until the 
buds break, and afterwards increase the supply, corresponding with the 
advancing growth, but avoid making the soil too wet or the roots will 
decay. 
Planted-out Vines should have the inside border brought into a moist 
condition by supplying water at a temperature of about 75°, or if the 
border is of an open nature, well drained, and the area comparatively 
small to the extent of rod, liquid manure may be advantageously 
supplied in a tepid state. The border or floor of the house may, if 
convenient, be covered with leaves and stable litter in a state of fer¬ 
mentation about 18 inches to 2 feet deep, turning the material over 
occasionally to prevent over-heating and liberate the ammonia, which is 
beneficial to the Vines and inimical to insects. The outside border also 
must be attended to ; if fermenting materials are not obtainable cover 
with a good thickness of leaves, with a little litter over to prevent their 
blowing about. If the border slopes, and the litter is put on similar to 
thatch, much of the rain falling will pass off. 
Vines for Starting in December. —Prepare the Vines and house for 
another start without delay, as early pruning contributes much to com¬ 
plete rest. In pruning two eyes suffice for affording useful bunches ; 
but if large bunches are required the Vines should be pruned less 
closely, as it is necessary to have plump buds on stout, well-ripened 
wood if fine bunches are expected to follow. Longer pruning is also 
necessary when the buds at the base of the shoots are very small and 
pointed, instead of round and plump. But compact bunches are much 
the best for general purposes, as the berries swell to a good size, colour, 
and finish well. Large loose bunches are usually defective, espe¬ 
cially in the case of early forced Vines. After pruning the 
Vine should be stripped of the loose bark only and be washed 
with softsoap and warm water. A solution of 4 ozs. to the 
gallon of water is strong enough, and if there is not any mealy bug or 
scale it will be all that is necessary. If, however, there has been any 
scale or mealy bug a dressing of some insecticide must follow, and it 
should be repeated before the Vines are started. Thoroughly cleanse 
the woodwork of the house, and lime wash the walls. The surface soil 
should be removed down to the roots, and fresh lumpy loam supplied. 
Keep the house cool, admitting air freely when frost prevails. 
Houses of Ripe Grapes. —Remove dead foliage where Grapes are 
hanging, and look over the bunches frequently for the removal of decayed 
berries. Maintain a temperature of about 50°, losing no opportunity of 
admitting air when the days are fine, turning on the heat so as to cause 
a gentle warmth in the pipes, and so insure a circulation of air and the 
expelling of damp, turning off the heat at midday or soon after, so as to 
allow the pipes to cool, and the temperature not kept above 50° at night, 
and 5® or even 10° less on cold nights, except for Muscats or where the 
foliage has not matured. In dull weather it will be necessary to keep a 
little warmth in the pipes, but the house closed, and in that case the 
moisture will be condensed on the glass instead of the Grapes. 
Ripening the Wood. —Any Vines not yet hard and brown in the 
wood should be kept closely s opped, fire heat being still applied with 
free ventilation. The laterals should be brought down by degrees to the 
principal buds, which will have a tendency to cause rest, especially if 
air is freely admitted at night (but the temperature must not fall to 
freezing point) the house being kept rather warm, yet not close, by day, 
as that would have a tendency to induce growth. If the basal buds 
